Honda - Cr-v :: 1999 - Total Clutch Failure / Does Not Engage Fully When Let Out
Jul 7, 2011
Our 1999 CRV has had the clutch fail several times in the past year. The pattern is that you notice it slipping a bit now and then, but trending worse over a few days. Then it gets dramatically worse in a period of minutes: it does not engage fully when let out. The pedal feels fine, the engine is running fine, but power is not transmitted to the wheels.
On two occasions, we were able to take it directly and the mechanic resolved the problem with some adjustment to the master cylinder, or something like that (my wife spoke to the mechanic and it was many months ago).
Last winter, I was driving as the problem was recurring and I found myself nursing the slipping clutch up a steep one mile grade. At the top of the hill, totally flat ground, the problem continued to get worse for the next half mile, till there was no power at all! Engine fine, pedal action fine, but effectively the clutch was permanently disengaged. I left the car there over night. The next morning, before calling for a tow, I tried again and the clutch was working! I could tell it was still slipping a bit, but it was no problem to drive to the mechanic, who fixed the problem again for just a hundred bucks or so.
Yesterday, my wife again found that the clutch failed completely over the course of a few miles driving. She had to be towed. Today the mechanic says they can't reproduce the problem!
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New ghost in the machine.
Pulled out of the driveway two days ago to go trailer a wrecked car home. Got about half a mile up the road, and my electrical system started flickering. Engine died, dash went nuts, everything is clicking on and off real fast. This went on for a minute or two, then stopped. After a little internal debate, I decided to continue on.
Ran fine for another mile or so. Hitched up the trailer and checked the lights, everything A-OK. Started rolling down the lane and the truck went dark. Engine shut down, no sign of electrical power anywhere. It was as if my batteries had been suddenly abducted by aliens. Truck stayed dark for about 5 - 10 seconds, then like a switch was thrown all the electric came back on. Dropped the trailer and drove back to the house without incident. Not towing a car like this.
Checked the battery connections. Looked really good and tight. Pulled and cleaned them anyways.
Pulled the fuse box out from under the dash and looked for water damage. Absolutely no sign of moisture or corrosion anywhere on the box or anything else under the dash.
Started the truck and turned every electrical item I could think of on. Truck sat and idled for 15 minutes without a hiccup. Voltage at the batteries was normal. I wiggled wires everywhere with no effect.
Decided to quit for the night. Got into the truck to move it to it's parking spot and POOF, all went dark again. Engine died, heater blower, radio, headlights, interior lights, all dark. About 5 seconds later, everything came back online.
No CEL. No other symptoms. She was either running perfectly or had no juice at all.
I drove it last night to the mechanic I use. 7 miles, bumps, potholes, stop and go traffic, no issues.
Just spoke with the mechanic. They can't reproduce the problem. I told him I can't reproduce it on demand either. I asked that they put it up on the rack and check all the ground points.
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All instruments quit working at once on my 97 F-150 - speed, tach, fuel, volts, temp, odo, trip odo, oil. All idiot lights have failed except battery and seat belt. Indication for Overdrive is not working.
I have checked all other equipment and can find nothing else that is not working. I have checked the 50 A fuses (20 and 21) under the hood and also the 5 A fuse (2) under the dashboard, all are ok. Fuse 18 is also good, and the dashboard illumination is working. All fuses checked visually and with a meter. The annoying chimes are all working. The hi-lo beam indication, auto down feature for the drivers side window, and all features associated with wipers are working.
Checked for OBDII codes, passed with no codes listed, although the idiot light is not working. I have been searched this site fand read many posts. I think I saw a thread somewhere that stated that this was probably a GEM problem....
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I have a 2007 Chev Tahoe. Description of Problem: Past month engine light came on. Then some days for a short time will go off. When light is on the auto start wont work. Battery has been drained so today I changed the battery and have a total electrical power system failure. Zero power to anything. Last month I put a scanner on it but i didnt save the code. It was related to a "throttle body module" i think. Have been reading about the BCM also so im at a complete loss...
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My clutch peddle made a slight "snap" sound last night and now it is very difficult to get the car to engage in a gear while sitting still, while moving it does ok, but not nearly as smooth as it should be. The other odd occurrence is that while the motor is running and the car is not moving, you can't shift any gears at all, but as soon as you cut the motor, all 5 gears and reverse are easily accessible. Why the sound at the peddle and the trouble in the gear shift mechanism? I am only an advanced beginner with car repair, but I think think this is really bad... 2007 Honda Accord Manual Transmission
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I have a 1999 VW Passat that has a problem with its cruise control that two dealers have not been able to solve. Most of the time I cannot engage the cruise control. Other times it will work properly for 30 minutes. On a rare occasion, it will work properly for several hours. It does not seem to matter what type of road I am driving on. On the rare occasions when it works properly, it does not seem to matter if I stop the care and shut off the engine.
It appears is is there are times when it stops working that stopping the care and shutting off the engine is useful when I begin driving again. However, there is nothing consistent about when it fails, and when it again functions. The dealers have said little more than the cruise control is not working. One dealer installed a new break pedal sensor which did not resolve the problem.
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I traded for a 99 passat 1.8t aeb based on the assumption the slave cylinder was out. My 3rd b5 5 speed. Kid told me clutch pedal had no pressure and fell to floor.easy fix! Get the car to my house from 2 hours away and this is not the case.Pedal is fine. Decent clutch pedal starts with clutch pushed in. But clutch does not engage. Even when motor off or on goes into all gears without clutch pushed in. no engagement. So I put in new slave and bleed out.
Car no longer stuck in neutral shifts fine. Put in reverse barely crawls but is MOVING! Put into first and start to pull forward..stops moving. No clunks or booms just back to ALL neutral. starts with clutch but wont engage. So try bleeding again nothing.. I think it is the clutch but i dont want to spend 1400 if i dont have to though the car is worth it. Going to replace dual mass as well. The cv joints are fine. so thinking throw out or pressure plate. i work on this car like crazy but im definitely not going to do the clutch. Not enough time or a warm dry location. I haven't checked clutch master yet but with slave bleeding out,no leaks and a firm pedal i dont believe she is the culprit..
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The parking brake on my 99 honda civic won't fully disengage. If you use it when you go to put the lever down it pops back up slightly. Just barely one click and sometimes not even that. I just replaced the rear brake drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, and it was badly needed. I thought that this would solve my parking brake problem as well, but after I got everything back together and the car on the road the problem persisted.
I saw in the Hayne's manual for the car the parking brake can be adjusted from underneath the armrest. So would an adjustment fix my problem? If loosened would the brake stay down when not in use and still work when I need it? I also saw as part of the procedure the manual has you put the rear end on jack stands. If you are just tightening or loosening a cable why would the back wheels need to be off the ground? Is this absolutely necessary?
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1999 Ford Ranger 2.5L 5 speed transmission. I am a little confused I can not get the transmission to engage the clutch, I replaced the clutch 3 weeks ago, now I have no pressure in the pedal, I have bleed the system 5 attempts with clean solid flow of fluid. What else can I do to fix this or trouble shoot from here?
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When putting vehicle into park, every so often it will barely enage or not at all. Can hear a clanking noise when rolling back or forward. Trans position sensor?
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I just bought my 2001 with 153k on it and I notice that sometimes it didn't appear to fully engage in park. What I mean is that.... If I park on a a small incline occasionally after I put it in park and take my foot of the brake..... It will pop into park..... Or I'll have to wiggle a little when I notice the key can't be removed from the ignition. Now that I notice this.... I can make sure it is fully in park each time.
My emergency brake cable doesn't work (and I always do use this religiously on my other cars), and I think having it reduces strain on the transmission..... But darn its near 300 bucks to replace I'm told.
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I drive an 03 Civic Hybrid. Twice, a week apart, while driving about 50, the speedometer goes to zero, then the power steering goes out and I lose power and momentum. The dash indicator lights go on like a christmas tree, engine still running, but car sluggish. I shut it off, and then get no power at all, not even hazard lights, and car won't start. With jumper cables, it starts right up and runs like nothing happened. IMA and check engine lights are both on, and have been since I bought it three years ago. In those years, my gas mileage has been consistent (42mpg) and no other funny business. Dealer won't work on it except to replace IMA and O2 sensors, which it has always coded for, and would cost the value of the car. What to do?
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I'm just over 45k miles, have a new mechatronics unit as of 39k, and I am beginning to see a new symptom for the first time since the replacement.... wondering if any of you have experienced this.
It's happened 2 or 3 times in the last couple weeks. The symptom suggests the clutch is not fully engaging. It is as if I had the clutch pedal in while in first gear, and I am feathering the clutch. This happens in "M" mode -- but I basically only drive in M so cannot say if it may happen in D or S.
Today, for example, I was at a red light on an incline. Light turns green, right foot off the brake and onto the throttle. Engine free spins up to nearly 4k and the car hold its position on the incline, without any movement or even a hint of movement. But there apparently was enough force going to the wheels to keep the car on the incline.
The engine does not rev as if it is in LC mode. It is free revving without any sound of it being under load.The clutches seem ok, this is not a clutch slippage problem. It's something occurring in the DSG's control.
I called my service advisor and he looked me up and said I have the latest and greatest MU, and my VIN does not qualify for the recent MU recall that is in the works. He said to just keep an eye on it for now (of course)
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Within the past 2 weeks I've been noticing that when I shift hard into 2nd and 3rd, I manage to grind the gears slightly. At first I thought that maybe I wasn't engaging the clutch fully but after enduring rush hour traffic in the hilly streets of SF yesterday, I noticed that I could replicate the grinding at a full stop with the clutch fully engaged which makes me think that maybe my clutch is going bad.
I'm a bit unsure since the car still pulls up the hills like a champ (maybe it could be pulling harder?) and need to point out tell tale signs to look for when your clutch is starting to fail and requires replacement.
If my problem is not due to clutch, what could it be? If it is, any good place in bay area to take the R? I plan to replace with stock set up.
Currently I have stock clutch w/ +73k miles. I did have an episode where a car transporter managed to make thick grey smoke pour from my clutch due to ineptitude so clutch failure would not surprise me.
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In every other manual transmission vehicle I have ever driven, the clutch pedal engages/disengages within an inch of the floor. Is it normal that the clutch in my 2002 Hyundai Elantra engages when the pedal is so far away from the floor? When I say far away from the floor I mean within an inch of the pedal being fully released.
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2000 v6 manual wagon with +-90k. Brutally lowered with KW coils. First thing I noticed was the clutch pedal slowly getting lower and lower to the floor when fully released. Besides the pitch getting shorter, it seems to work fine, no slipping at all. It now sits a couple inches closer to the floor than the other pedals.
I am also getting a couple other things that may or may not relate to the clutch. It started out as a vibration under acceleration, getting worse over about a month or so. Now it is also starting to clunk when pressing or releasing the gas while the clutch is released. It also clunks when moving from a stop, although I can regulate this with the clutch.
I am thinking it is a motor mount causing the clunking and vibrating, and maybe the engines movement has caused the clutch to come out of alignment?? I am unsure where to start, which mount to check, etc.
I also just had my oil pan replaced after slamming the ground recently. Although the problems were starting before this, I am sure this wasn't exactly good for the motor mounts....
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My 01 GTi (12v VR6) was having some trouble shifting into, and out of, first and reverse so after a bit of research I decided to try adjusting the shift linkage as it seemed like a possible easy fix. After doing that I tried backing it up in the driveway and after a couple of shifts to different gears it ended up getting stuck in reverse. When I pushed in the clutch pedal to let it roll forward I noted that it seemed to be resisting rolling forward despite the steep incline. Once it reached a less steep incline it stopped rolling forward completely, so I'm thinking that it probably won't come out of gear because the clutch won't disengage all the way.
I've done some searching around and from what I've read so far it sounds like it could be a worn or damaged clutch fork, the hydraulic lines, master or slave cylinder, or even a broken clutch plate. What I don't want to do is pull the transmission and clutch, only to find that it was something much easier to fix.
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When I am stopped (at a red light, for example), the car wants to lurch when in 1st gear, even though I have the clutch pedal fully depressed. I know this is not a problem with the clutch master cylinder leaking by where you lose pressure on the pedal. Car has 245,000 miles and still has original clutch. Car/transmission work fine so long as I put it in neutral when I stop. Doesn't seem to do this w/reverse. Clutch also passes the "stall test" where you let it out in 4th gear with the hand brake on. What's going on here?
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I bought a 2010 Elantra Blue in November. It has 1200 miles on it now, but as early as the 2nd week or so I became aware that there is occasionally resistance shifting into 2nd gear despite the clutch being fully depressed. It can also make a slight "crunching" noise after passing through the neutral position and fully into 2nd (though this sound is distinct from grinding, it's not the same as if you were grinding the gears). I've tried a million times to narrow down the cause (i.e. cold weather, low RPM shifting, high RPM shifting, slow shifting, fast shifting, gentle shifting, strong shifting) but every time I think I got it, and have corrected it, it happens again anyways.
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MK7 GTI - I was driving along yesterday when I got a warning message that said "cannot engage reverse," accompanied by a CEL and the transmission downshifting into 1st gear (luckily I was only going about 20 mph.) I tried pulling over and restarting the car, and tried shifting into the different transmission and engine modes, but the transmission continued to only be able to engage 1st gear or neutral. Luckily I was five minutes from my APR dealer, and cruised over there at 15 mph so as to not over-rev the engine in 1st gear, a lot of pissed off traffic was flying by me honking.
They ran the codes, flashed it back to stock, and the codes and CEL persisted in stock mode. I drove back to my house at 15mph, took my intake off, and called roadside assistance to tow my car to the dealership. They are currently waiting on a rep to come out and authorize a new DSG most likely.
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My truck has a very specific hesitation/failure to engage at 1300 rpm and 45-55 mph. I took it to a reputable national chain that specializes in transmissions thinking this should be a very specific issue that I was able to catch early. After "transmission rebuild" with new torque converter, I have the exact symptoms. How is this possible?
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