Honda - Cr-v :: 1997 Starts Fine Then Dies Only In Warm Weather
May 8, 2013
Our car starts, then dies. It starts fine, then dies. This only happens in warm weather, which we have finally been experiencing in Northern Illinois. It eventually gets to the point where we can drive it, but then might die at a stop sign, or it can go the rest of the day and not have any difficulties. I know later models have timing chains, not belts. Does our car have a timing belt problem or maybe fuel pump? And why only in warm weather?
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Vehicle: 1995 960 wagon
Background: Exhibits intermittent no-start behavior in both warm and cold weather, wet and dry weather, having sat overnight, or only sitting a few minutes. Turns over fine, but won't start. Sunday, it started fine several times, went to Home Depot, wouldn't start. Called a friend to pick me up. When he was almost there, I tried it again and it started back fine. Been in shop a few times, they played around with a few electrical connections, battery cables and grounds to injectors. Also replaced fuel pump. I have not verified if it is a fuel or spark problem, I just bought a FI fuel pressure gauge last night.
Once started, it does fine. It never stalls or cuts out. That is why I am leaning toward a CPS (that's what jeep people call it.) Sometimes, under the slow cranking speed (relative to idle) the signal is too weak to be useful. However, during idle and normal operation, the flywheel is moving fast enough that the signal is much stronger (being a magnetic pickup). Thus, the reason it only happens during starting, not during running.
Here's my current working theory: Bad crank position sensor (is that Volvo people call it?)
This is the only part I can think of that would cause this. A fuel pump problem would probably show up during running. I think the pump also receives a signal from the cam sensor, so if that sensor were the problem, it would happen during running too, not just starting. It the cam sensor an optical sensor? Shouldn't cause it to not start, although it might cause a difficult start.
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I have an 04 w12 with 80k miles on it. It will start fine but will not run for more than 10 seconds. As it idles down from startup it settles to about 700 RPM's where it normally does then dies. If u drive it it will start and go into gear fine as u go to pull away it loses all power and dies. I have checked the minor things i know like air filters, oil, tranny juice all appears normal. New batteries less than 3 months ago also.
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I have a V6 with 162,000 miles. A year ago in the early spring we replaced the alternator, starter, fuel pump, lines, filter, dropped and cleaned the tank, fuel coils, repaired / replaced almost all injectors, spark plugs.Since April of last year, every few months my Car would have a hiccup of that it starts fine but would immediately die out. It would take anywhere from 5 to 30 minutes of trying to get it to start again. Other than that it would run beautifully. This week, while on the road it would jolt and die out. It happened 3 times. Yesterday morning it would once again crank fine and immediately die out. It will no longer keep running. We have not been able to keep my car started since then.
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I am working on my father's boss' 2004 Phaeton V8. The car usually sits on the weekends. What it is doing is, it will start and run smooth, but after 15 seconds, on the dot, it stalls and dies. It sounds like it is starving for fuel.
What I have done so far:
LH intake actuator arm found broken, replaced both with "Gruvenparts"
Checked all fuses and relays
LH fuel pump reads 14 volts until the relay kicks it off
Tested fuel pressure-good
Batteries fully charged
LH fuel pump reads 0.7 ohms w/key off
RH fuel pump reads 6.0 M-ohms when first connected and gradually climbs to 31.5 M-ohms
(I assumed this meant RH pump was bad and so I pulled it out and bench-tested. Ran perfect and tested at 0.7 ohms out of the car)
Re-assembled everything to pull the car out of the shop, and wouldn't you know it started and ran like normal.
Road-tested for 2 hours the next day without any problems.
So, I call the customer to pick it up and he says he will be there 2 days later.
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I have a 1991 Chevy Cavalier. It usually runs fine, but recently the weather has been colder and it is having issues when I start it in the morning. Granted, I live in Florida so "cold" is only in the 40s. The car will start, but then it immediately dies. I had taken to a mechanic (a family friend) and he said that it was fine the whole time he had it and didn't recommend any repairs. It was running fine for about 2 weeks and now it is doing it again. It does appear to only be doing this when it is cold out, because the issue began when we got our first cold snap.
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A few days ago, I went to start the car, and it will start, and idle fine for a few seconds, and then begin to run crappy, idle down, and die. I tried starting it, and giving it some accelerator pedal, and it dies. I changed the timing belt, idler pulley, and tensioner this summer, so I'm ruling out a bad timing belt. There is no check engine light, and I replaced the plug wires because when I removed the cover, I noticed one of them was worn in a spot, and the wire shielding inside the rubber insulation was visible.
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I have a 04 late model F250. I have done the EGR delete, oil cooler upgrade, and blue spring upgrade. I have a SCT tuner but truck is currently set to stock.
My issue is it starts fine runs good but dies after about 2 minutes. No stutter or stumble. It acts as if some one just turns the key off. I have to let it sit for about 2 minutes and then it will restart. If I try any sooner then it just cranks but will not fire. This started about three weeks ago. At that time I would be driving and it would just die. I could slip into neutral turn key and it would fire right back up and I could continue down the road. As time has gone by the issue has reoccurred more often and now I have to let it sit for about 2 minutes to get it to start again but then as stated only runs for about 2 minutes and then dies again.
I have a scangauge and here are the readings I can get.
FICM main power is 47.5 - 48 volts at all times = good
FICM Logic power is 10.5 - 11.5 volts at all times = ???
IPR is 33% at idle = good Scangauge does not react fast enough to get info at startup.
ICP voltage KOEO 0.25 volts
Start 1.33 volts
Idle 1.11 - 1.13 volts dips briefly to 0.96 volts
ICP pressure Start 900+
Idle 830ish
Sync between CAMshaft and Crankshaft is 1 = good
Have not gotten fitting to do fuel pressure test yet.
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Starts fine. Runs fine till warmed up. Then dies at idle and runs rough on gear till 1000 rpm. Has only coded iac when unplugged. But would idle with it unplugged. I replaced it. Also got crank can code once while checking it ...
2001 dodge ram 1500 318 engine ....
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1991 honda crx si - starts fine when weather and engine is cold but lately giving me trouble starting when it is warm [above 80] and engine is cold [has not been driven for several hours].
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I have a problem about which the mechanics I have asked are baffled: In cool, cloudy or sunny weather, my brakes and break-pedal pressure are fine (the mechanics have said I have good fluid, brakes, etc.--they can find nothing wrong--and, of course, it never has a problem when they test-drive my car). However, when the weather warms up and it's a bright, sunny day, my brake pedal loses pressure and slowly sinks to the floor--a dangerous thing at intersections. There's slight pressure if I pump the pedal constantly while at a light; but, without pumping, the pedal immediately sinks to the floor.
This is a real problem, because this problem always occurs right when mechanics are not near or not open for business--and none I've talked to have ever heard of such a problem. The bright, hot sun's affect seems to be key, because if it's 80 degrees outside and cloudy, I don't have the issue--but, then again, I don't usually run the air conditioner if it's cloudy. As such, I'm not positive; but, this may be tied to when I turn on the air conditioner--as though the two share the same vacuum system.
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Right after I filled the gas tank, the car will start for a few seconds and shortly die afterwards. Could it possibly be the purge control solenoid? Right now I'm completely lost...
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My 95 Honda accord with 2.2 v tech suddenly started to SOMETIMES for periods of minuets to many hours, or days, start perfectly and die in 1/2 second. Later it will work fine for a while.
Car ran perfectly until one day it would not start.Turn key on, here fuel pump prime, CEL goes out after a second, then I turn over car and it starts...check engine light goes out... then comes back on a half to a 1/4 second later and car at same time light comes on, stops firing and dies. Dash lights stay on. Restart attempt will NOT give any start at all!..UNTIL you turn key off a second, then try again and it does start and die just as above. Key must be turned to off to get another restart and die. Sequential repeated attempts bring the same result. Walk away, for 15 minuets, or sometimes for hours, or days, and it starts and is fine again, and will restart multiple times in a row,... until you walk away again and come back...at which time it may again do the start and die pattern again. If it is in a start mood, you can drive it hours and it keeps running fine... if you turn it off... it is luck of the draw if it does the no start thing or will start for you and go.
- Main relay clicks in each time, fuel pump primes each time key turned off and back on.
- Keeping key in start does NOT cause motor to continue to fire or check engine light to stay off. Engine still dies in 1/2 second even as starter continues to crank.
- Check engine light is giving a code 15 for electrical issue when check is done.
- Took out main relay and re-soldered the connections on it.... it seems fine.
- Does not seem to be key contacts related to me, wiggle key, mess with key, etc. all you want has no effect. Holding key in start does not keep it running.
- It is almost like the computer kills the car after 1/2 second as it turns on check engine light.
I have seen other threads about this, but no clear answer, often people stop posting before telling what finally fixed it. One example is here:
car starts and dies immediately, then only cranks.
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We have a 2003 Ford F250 Super Duty, gas engine. This will start fine, then a day later, it won't. Wait 30 minutes, then it starts.
Starter and battery are fine. It acts like it isn't getting fuel. Fuel pump? Filter? What else might cause this?
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My son's 1991 Honda Accord was running real rough. The temperature gauge did not budge from cold. I changed out the thermostat. When I tried to start it it started great then coughed and shuddered and then died. It keeps starting and then dying. I took off the IAC and flushed it with mass air flow cleaner. The screen over one of the ports was all crudded up. It cleaned up OK. However then I put it back it improved for a minute and then died again. I have checked for vacuum leaks but found none.
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If the outside temp is cool (say below 75) the a/c works, but as soon as the day gets warm it starts blowing only warm air. I took it to the Honda dealership and they said that it was low on freon and that it needs a new clutch and a new coil. They recharged it and added dye. A week later I took it to a good independent shop that specializes in Honda repairs. They said that the compressor has power and ground and is full of freon and dye but they found a bad thermal switch and that I need a new compressor. I have no understanding of car a/c systems and thus don't know which repair sounds like the right one (if either) based on the diagnostics that have been done.
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Truck starts right up. Will die if I dont give it some gas for about 5 seconds of so. No check engine lights. I did leave the hood open yesterday adn the auto sprinklers came on. I completely forgot about it. I check the air filter before I started it and its dry so I dont feel its water intrusion. I shot a quick burst of carb cleaner in the IAC and then reinstalled it. No joy. When running it will idle and runs fine. If I unplug the IAC it stumbles and almost dies. Any way to test the IAc, TPS or MAF sensor ? I hate just throwing parts at them without diagnosing them properly.
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My diesel suburban dies while driving. It starts right back up. I have changed the fuel filter and checked for water in fuel.
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'97 dodge dakota engine starts and vehicle will move and then engine dies. Just bought it and it ran fine. Coil was replaced by previous owner four months ago. At times it will run fine but is not reliable and wife will not drive in it. Had it towed to dodge dealer and they said it needed a new coil which they installed and still have the same problem and now think it might be the ecm which is mine even if it does not cure problem. Truck has 145k miles and otherwise is in good shape. When it does run, engine is strong, automatic shifts good and all accessories work. But, it won't keep running.
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The car I drive is a 1997 Civic EX, and if I drive it for about five minutes, the temperature gauge starts creeping up real fast. It'll go to the red if I let it, and the only thing that brings it down is turning on the heater and fan, at full blast. which is pretty miserable in summer.
I looked under the hood and found the radiator fan isn't starting up, no matter how hot it gets. So I checked the fuse - it looked good. Replaced it anyway just to be sure. No change. Then I replaced the relay switch. that didn't change anything. And I also replaced the fan motor. Still nothing.
I have read elsewhere that I should check my thermostat, but I can't see what it has to do with the fan motor not starting? also that the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor might be faulty but it is my understanding that that controls fuel-air mixtures and I just don't know.
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So my wife drove her car all day yesterday, everything fine. This morning went to start and it wouldn't. It turns over fine just not firing.
Now during the summer I had replace the fuel pump/filter before discovering that was not the issue.
I know you are already thinking CPS!.. I replaced that over the summer.
I have not checked the spark yet, kinda hard to do that one by yourself.
Beyond spark I am not sure what else could be wrong, especially because it was running fine last night. Is it common for accents to have issues in 20 degree weather?
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