Clutch won't shift on a HOT day. When its hot I can't shift very easy between gears. However, the clutch is newer and so it works just fine. When its cold its sometimes tough but not as hard at all. Could it be a clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder? Do I need to bleed it?
View 1 RepliesI just rolled over to 90,000 miles on my 2002 Accord. Its running beautifully, however every so often the car "rumbles" or "shudders" when I'm releasing the clutch after I shift into second gear, or sometimes it'll do it when I'm facing up a hill pulling into first gear letting out the clutch. Its almost as if the clutch rapidly grabs then slips a bunch of times, similar to if it was warped. It doesn't completely slip at all to my knowledge. The car was bought new by my family and has been driven pretty carefully since (although 2 people have learned to drive stick on it, and my dad isn't the most "gentle" driver in the universe). I know that Clutch rebuilding and replacing is a big expensive job and its something I wouldn't even consider doing myself. So, when is it time to really seriously consider dropping down the serious cash to get the clutch rebuilt? To be honest, the shuddering is really annoying (it doesn't happen all the time though) but its something I could live with for a bit.
View 8 Replies2000 Jeep Cherokee Classic 4.0L, in Palo Alto, CA.
My air conditioner clutch stops engaging after driving in hot weather.
In hot weather (>80 degrees), when I first turn on the AC it blows nice and cold for up to 30 minutes, after which it gradually gets warmer and then hot air comes out. If I leave the AC on when it is blowing hot air, it will suddenly blow cold again (sometimes it takes a couple minutes for it to work again, sometimes it takes 30 minutes). Then the cycle repeats.The AC seems to be dependent on outside temperature: on very hot days ~95 degrees the AC will only work for ~5 minutes before blowing hot, 80 degree days the AC works longer, limited testing in cooler weather (at night ~60 degrees) AC always blows cold. When it is blowing hot air, the clutch on the compressor hasn’t engaged. When the AC is blowing cold, the clutch engages/disengages normally depending on how you set the temperature. I replaced the low pressure switch, did not change AC function. I recharged the AC, did not change AC function.Engine temperature reading always in normal range <210 degrees. Heater is working normally.
I’m pretty sure the clutch is getting the signals to engage. When the AC is working normally the engine revs slightly higher when AC clutch is engaged.Likewise, when the AC is blowing hot air and the clutch isn’t engaged the engine revs higher. And if I disconnect either the low or the high pressure switches the engine reduces to normal idling.
For a few years now, in cold weather, when starting my 2000 Honda Odyssey the TCS light will stay on and the transmission will not shift out of low gears. I can drive in reverse just fine, but when I try shifting to drive, the "D" drive indicator does not light up and it will only drive in what seems to be first gear. However, when sufficiently warmed up, I can restart the engine, the TCS light goes out, and everything's normal. The warm up time varies from 5 to 10 mins or more, and is unpredictably annoying. I went to a dealer last year and they didn't seem to have a clue. Is it just a matter of a bad sensor?
View 6 RepliesThis is what’s wrong with my 1998 Honda CR-V manual transmission. When it’s off, the gear stick works normally. However, when I start the car, the gear stick gets stuck and won’t move to change gears. It happened before a couple times and if I warmed the car up for about 10 minutes it worked normally again, and normally the next time I drove it. However, this morning, the gear shift would not work even after warming it up, except when the car was turned off.
View 5 RepliesFord Ranger 20012.5L
Manual 4 Cylinder4x2
Drivetrain~150K Miles
The problem with the vehicle is that it won't shift into gear easily and smoothly. It started occurring just this last Friday or Saturday (2011-06-24 or 2011-06-25). I was driving around 35 MPH, slowed down to a stop at an intersection, and when I put it back into 1st Gear to begin driving, I had extreme difficulty shifting the gear.
I cut the ignition and started again, was able to put it into 1st Gear and made it home by coasting (getting into any of the other Gears was just as difficult, fortunately I was in the neighborhood). Following this, I tested it while parked the next day. Same issue. Then I tried double-clutching, which seemed to work out, but I only did it parked, since I didn't want to strand myself on a road (I'll take that risk when I go to a mechanic, though).
I've read this [URL] ...., I'm pretty sure it's the clutch (master/slave cylinder) and I'm also aware that it could be the transmission fluid requiring a change. I haven't changed the transmission fluid at the 60K & 120K interval per Ford's suggested maintenance schedule (I got it around 50K-60K from a dealership, so I'm not sure if they may have done it preemptively).
A couple other details. For the past year or so, I've been driving 100 Highway miles for 4-5 days a week, for work (50 to work, 50 back home).
Are my assumptions right, or is it possible that my whole Transmission is getting ready to go? Are there any other details I should provide?
I have a 2000 VW beetle with a fairly new clutch (2 yrs old). My boyfriend is new to a manual transmission and I can't say I know much about how it works either. A few times when he was driving he will reverse out of a parking spot and then shift to first and the car will make a deep rumbling noise. We turn off the car and turn it back on and its fine. Is the car stuck between gears? Why does it make this noise?
View 4 RepliesI am trying to figure out why my car makes a certain sound and movement when I shift between first and second gear. I don't think I am making the car lug or stall out because the RPMs never fall too low, but there is a clear "ka-chunk-ka-chunk" noise with a corresponding forward-backward lurch. I am pretty sure the car is fine, and it's all my bad technique because my girlfriend does not get that "effect" as much as I do (really, not at all, and it's a bit emasculating that shes such a better driver than me!). This does not happen when shifting into first from a stop, but then again, I'm not the best at that either..
I drive a 2002 Honda Civic with 120k.
I am having trouble shifting my 6 speed into 2nd, 4th, and 6th. I got my clutch replaced about a year ago, not sure if that makes a difference. Any fixes short of bringing it to a shop?
View 1 RepliesI have a 98 Mazda Protege-Automatic, it has the following problem:
- When i press the gas it takes about 2-3 seconds to feel it and start moving.
- at the beginning of a drive, it is very heavy to go and some time i have to reach 4000 rpm to get it move. after running for some time it is better.
- some time it sticks to a specific gear (usually 1st or 2nd) and does not shift forward??
Is it the clutch or the transmission or something else? how much it may cost to fix?
While driving my 2002 Honda CRV (155000 miles) to work yesterday, I noticed the AC was working intermittently. Soon enough, I heard a loud clunk under the car and noticed a part had fallen into the street. I circled back and picked it up. After a bit of research I figured out it was the AC Compressor clutch plate. After doing more research I noticed that early Honda CRVs are known for having AC problems - and mine is not the first clutch plate to have fallen off.
My questions are as follows:
Is there any harm in (trying) to reinstall the clutch plate?
Does the fact that my clutch plate fell off mean something else is wrong (e.g., the compress has frozen up)?
If the compressor is bad does 'black death' always occur?
Finally, if I am going to replace the compressor. Do you recommend I just get an AC kit (compressor, condenser, drier, etc.)
I know this isn't an easy repair, but I think I can handle it with my father. That old fart can fix anything!
My 1994 Honda Accord has just lately had a start up problem. I try to start it, it turns over easily enough, but will not start. Have had a mechanic look at it two or three times but it started for him so he was unable to find the problem. If I keep trying, it sometimes will finally start, but the last time it happened it started to sound like it was running down the battery so I called the mechanic and set up an appt to have it checked. After several hours I tried it again and it started right up again so I canceled the appt. This has happened numerous times just lately and the mechanic cannot find the problem because for some reason it has eventually started each time. There seems to be no rhyme nor reason about why or when this happens and I never know when it is going to do this. I am to the point of hoping that it absolutely will NOT start at all just so the problem can be found.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2007 Touring Edition PT Chrysler Cruiser which was just a few days ago repaired because of damage under the front of the car. Front bumper, ouside and inside grills, all housings and connecdtions in the front area were replaced, including air conditioning mechanisms. Received car on Monday, Friday evening, it wouldn't start. Just made a tet tet tet or clicky kind of noise, no turning over of engine, then there was no noise ... just wouldn't start. Got jump, still wouldn't start until the third cycle that peddle was pressed. Now I'm finding that the longer I let the car idle, the more likely it will be to start after more than two hours of non-use. Had all electrical circuitry checked ... battery's 100 percent, alternator is working fine, but it's still not starting.
Car's gear shift button at top of lever is also sticking when I put it in park to turn the car off. Have to pull the top button up to get the key out. This was happening before car was repaired underneath front. Talked to warranty person, and he felt that maybe the ignition starter switch (if that's what's wrong) and sticking gear shift may have something to do with each other. Since car is actually starting after being run, maybe it's not the starter switch. I'd hate to get it repaired if that's not what it is. Thinking about having a Chrysler dealership do a diagnostic test on it to pinpoint exactly what is going on.
What's happening? Why is my car cutting not starting in selective situations after not having been idled for a couple hours or more?
I started having a strange clicking sound when pushing down the clutch pedal. I have 43,000 miles on it and I have driven the clutch well(I really don't believe I already worn it up). It goes away and then it comes back. There is no problem on shifting from gear to gear, it works just fine. It is only when I push the pedal that it starts clicking like it pushing against something. The car dealership was so useless, they said I need a new clutch and that warranty does not cover it because I may have been using the clutch badly. Also do you think that they have the right to tell me it is my fault even though I have the extended warranty for 100, 000 miles.
View 6 RepliesI have changed the clutch master cylinder on my '03 Honda Accord (6 cyl.) six times in the past 12 months. Either the o ring seal blows out or the bolts holding the plate down breaks off. I bleed the clutch of bubbles until the oil runs through also. What am I doing wrong?, I'm about to send this car packing.
View 9 RepliesWhen it gets hot outside and the car warms up (15 mins or so of highway driving), the stick gets extremely hard to move and it doesn't go back to center when it's out of gear. So I could push it all the way left or right without putting it in a gear, and it would stay there, it wouldn't pop back to the center like it should. It becomes really annoying and difficult to drive because it gets so stiff and hard to move, what could be causing the problem? I've already adjusted the shift linkage and that didn't work.
View 3 RepliesMy 2000 Camry --4 cyc has a problem with the shift lever on hot days. It is hard to move from P to R to N to D and the other way back to P. There has never been any liquid spill on it. In cold days, the lever shifts fine.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1999 GMC Suburban(5.7) with 173k miles. When the outside temperature is above 80 degrees F and I have been driving for about 30 minutes, I get a hard/firm shift from 1st to 2nd. It shifts to the other gears normally. When the temp is below 80 degrees, I can drive all day without any problems. Any clues for what may cause the hard shifting on hot days?
View 2 RepliesI've noticed now that it's winter that my Legacy with 14k on it will shift somewhat hard into drive from reverse if I don't let it idle and warm up for 2-5 minutes before setting off. After that one shift, the car is fine the rest of the day. I checked the transmission fluid and it appears full, I had a more mechanically inclined person check also and it looked full to them as well. It seems more pronounced if I parked on my hill with the front of the car facing up the hill - but i use the parking break to hold the car, and release it before starting out.
The issue is if I just go - sometimes it will jerk into drive - one time even though I've learned to back up, come to a complete stop, wait a second, hold the break down all the way and then shift into drive, it jerked forward some distance over the breaks, but then stopped. This only happened once - but it happened with my father in the car, so it was a bit disconcerting... It happens before I even touch the gas...
This is the 5 speed automatic with a manual mode and paddle shifters - I'm just using the fully automatic R and D.
Now, my family likes Subarus and has owned a number, and my last one, an 07 impreza with automatic sometimes jerked into drive also, and my relatives have sometimes had that happen with Autos. Is this just a Subaru traditional Automatic thing? I spent many hours with my 07 in the dealer for this, only to be told it was normal, so I'd rather not waste everyones time again with the 2012 Legacy if it's just "a subaru thing". I can certainly live with warming the car up when it's cold, though that seems to not usually be a best practice with modern cars.
Since December, I have had the SRS airbag light indicator come on in my 2006 Honda Accord (EX-L, 2.4 L, Automatic), but only in the morning, and only when the outside temperature has been below freezing the night before. After a few minutes when the car warms up, if I turn the car off and then back on the SRS light is gone. The rest of the day, no problem. Figuring that it was not the safest thing to drive with, I had it checked out by a repair shop that I feel comfortable with. They checked the code and said that it showed up as a faulty SRS computer, and the computer would need to be replaced. It seems crazy to me that a 2006 Accord with under 52,000 would need a new SRS unit, so I started looking online to see if I could find any info.
I saw about the SRS units in previous Accords, but it seems like they have those issues ironed out in the 2005 and 2006. I did however, see that some people have said that low voltage also could trigger the same defective code in the SRS unit, which got me thinking. The original Honda battery died and was replaced at the end of November with an AC Delco ACD 51R60 (460 CCA). My original theory was that the AC Delco battery was not cranking enough when it is cold compared to the old Honda battery, and it is triggering the SRS airbag light. I ended up having the shop switch out the new battery to an AC Delco 51R6YR (500 CCA). Unfortunately, however, it did not fix the problem. I can't get past the fact that if it was a defective SRS unit, why would it only cause a problem for the first few minutes when it is cold, and then consistently be fine after that?
My 2009 Honda CRV struggles to start on very cold days. I need to hold the key and turn it longer than I would on most days. Is this something I should be concerned about or is it normal.
View 7 Replies