Honda - Civichybrid :: 2006 - Complete Loss Of Power When Stepping On Gas Pedal
Apr 25, 2016
This first occurred about 2 weeks ago, I had a complete loss of power when stepping on the gas pedal. The engine did not rev or anything, completely unresponsive and the car was just gliding. I've had loss of battery power in the past where the engine was still going, just straining hard, but this was not like it as now the engine was completely not responding either.
I can't recall if it was going up or downhill -- it was around time the incline changed in a freeway ramp that began up and then moves down. At first I thought it was me accidentally putting it on neutral as I have a habit of resting my hand on the shift knob, but putting it in/out of drive did not work initially but after the 2nd try everything was back to normal so I thought nothing of it afterwards.
But if happened again this morning, again on a hill transition, either right before the top of a hill or right as I was coming down it. This time I know I did not have my hand on the shift knob. It resolved itself about the same, I had to shift in/out of drive a few times and it worked fine again a few seconds later.
I've been good with maintenance and changing out everything that they recommended, and also did the IMA battery recall upgrade.
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About 3 days ago there was a complete power loss to the Driver Side Window and Sliding Door. Checked both fuse panels and everything looked good. Is there a relay that controls the entire driver side? There's no whining or noise at all when you push the buttons. Just complete loss of power. If you press the button for the passenger window on the driver door, everything works. So its not that the driver side door as a whole has problems.
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I have a 2006 Honda Civic Hybrid (automatic). The car has a bit under 200,000 miles on it, and has been used in a lot of long distance commuting and driving. We do pretty frequent check ups on it, and checked oil/other fluids last week -- all were good (the oil is admittedly getting close to needing a change, but definitely not within the next few weeks).
I was on the return trip of a 300+ mile drive when I noticed a rapid clicking/ticking sound roughly under the right side (passenger side) dash of the car. It was not affected by turning, accelerating or braking. The clicking was not constant, not very loud (I did not notice it over my music at first) and would come and go. If it was affected by anything, it appeared to come or go when a bump was hit, but that also wasn't necessarily always the case (hit bumps and it didn't stop, hit bumps and it didn't start). I checked wheel wells and under car for objects (suspension is a bit worn and car is low to begin with, so it rides close to ground and this has been a problem before; didn't seem similar) and there was nothing.
Google has led me to the possibility of sticky lifters, and though the sound is similar-ish, I am under the impression that this would be a much more constant noise and I am also fairly confident in the current quality of my oil.
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1999 Outback 2.5, idles fine but bogs or loss of power when stepping on throttle. Can "feather" or tease to get going and will hold rpm once it gets there...
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I drive an 03 Civic Hybrid. Twice, a week apart, while driving about 50, the speedometer goes to zero, then the power steering goes out and I lose power and momentum. The dash indicator lights go on like a christmas tree, engine still running, but car sluggish. I shut it off, and then get no power at all, not even hazard lights, and car won't start. With jumper cables, it starts right up and runs like nothing happened. IMA and check engine lights are both on, and have been since I bought it three years ago. In those years, my gas mileage has been consistent (42mpg) and no other funny business. Dealer won't work on it except to replace IMA and O2 sensors, which it has always coded for, and would cost the value of the car. What to do?
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Really scary, had my son in the car. Dash read "Check hybrid system". Reading some posts make me think that it may just be the 12V. Had it towed to my house.
60k GEN3 2010 Prius III
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My son is primary driver of our 2011 Limited with push-button start. He phoned me a few minutes ago to tell me he was driving--everything normal-- when there was suddenly a complete loss of power, mechanical and electrical (engine died, dash lights out, nav screen dark, etc.). There was no advance warning of any kind.
The power loss was total but brief, two or three seconds, and then reactivated on its own. My son said he pulled off the road into a parking area, stopped the engine, waited a few seconds and then restarted and is on his way home with everything working normally so far.
First issue with the Sonata--61k miles ....
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I own a 02 fwd v6 Santa Fe that just lost power on the interstate. It will go about 20 miles an hour and basically does not change gear unless it is in manual mode. I was able to drive it to a local repair shop but they are having trouble figuring out what is wrong with it.
First, they told me the plugs and wires were bad, changed those and still no power. Next, they told me it was the fuel pump, change that and still no power. Next, they said it was the catalytic converters but the said they unhooked them to test the theory and it still had not powered. They said it may need back pressure from the cats so that may not work. They want me to buy them but they are very expensive especially on a guess. Next, they told me if that does not fix it is must be the transmission. Will the cats off keep it from running due to back pressure? Does it sound like a transmission issue or could it be something else?
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1994 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 100,000 miles:
Driving out to see my BF this afternoon I noticed when I accelerated it hesitated a bit. I didn't think anything of it so I let it go. Driving home was another story. I was about 5 miles from home coming up to a red light and I started to brake, the light turned green and I hit the accelerator and I got no juice, I got across the highway and started to brake and the brakes locked up, the steering wheel locked up and then I lost all power. I got the Jeep to stop (right at the exit to a train station ) I tried to turn it back on and got no juice. I just got a new battery about 3 weeks ago. I called 911 since I was stuck in the middle of the road right outside the railroad station. Officer asked me to try to crank the engine again, asked if I had gas (have 1/2 tank) and then got me pushed into a spot until I can get a tow to my house in the morning.
The car has been fine, I never put "off" gas in, try not to let the gas get below half a tank.
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My daughter drives a 94 Century (120+ K) and it was running great, no issues to speak of. Thursday morning she was advised that her brake lights were stuck on when the car was parked in school lot. This drained the battery. The battery was very old so she got a new one properly size & installed; the car started up and drove fine. Later that evening it started up and drove again with no issues.Next morning; NOTHING; No Start. I checked and when door is opened interior lights come on, insert key and door chime rings. Turn key and there is nothing at all, a total loss of power, lights go out, door stops chiming but nothing. Starter never engages, no noise, no attempts of the engine to turn, remove key and lights return and door chimes!
1994 Buick Century 3.1L SFI OHV 6cyl .....
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About three nights ago I had a complete power loss on the highway and the car began to bog down alot under throttle (and surge at points as well although with no boost). It also idled very rough/erratically. When I unplugged the MAF it cleared up right away; Idle was smooth and it ran without hiccup but in safe/limp mode so very tame (again, without boost really, gauge shows it stays in Vacuum and never passes "0" or goes into boost).
I scanned it this evening and got 2 misfire codes and a MAF code, along with a code related to traction control which I noticed had activated as a result of this and could not be turned on (by activated, I mean the light came on, disengaging T/C). These things make me think it is MAF related, especially because I have bolt down Hitachi coil packs so I do not think that is what it could be in relation to the misfire codes (which I think may be old and needed to be cleared).
Fast forward to last night: I can pretty confidently say my MAF is not the problem and I think I saved an unnecessary expenditure. I was able to meet a friend with a 337 as well and his MAF did not change my car at all and my MAF ran fine in his car so I think my problems are something else. Although with the MAF plugged in my car runs very poor and unplugged it clears up and just runs "limp" (no boost and slow but stable) from what I tested this evening the MAF unit seems to not be the issue.
I think there must be a vacuum leak of some sort between the MAF and the engine which allows more air in than the MAF signals when plugged in which causes the issue. Also, I know a common thing to think is "coilpacks" but I have bolt down Hitachi coil packs so I would imagine that would eliminate those from being the failure they tend to normally be. Agreed ??
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Background- 2000 Ranger, 3.0L 2WD 170,000mi. This truck is not my daily driver, i try to drive it once a week.
I've never had this issue before... I drove all over town yesterday; multiple stops, no issue. Today i go to do the same thing and upon accelerating out of the driveway i lose all power for about 3 seconds. I get power back for about 3 seconds then lose it again. This continues for as longs as i'm driving. Also, no CEL. I go back to the house to look things over, can't find anything staring me in the face really.
Truck idles fine and the issue is not present when i run up the RPMs in park. I've been reading some other threads about similar issues and most replies begin with checking the regular maintenance stuff i.e. TB, MAF, IACV, pcv, etc. It seems like a complete loss of fuel or spark...but only when in gear with constant throttle???
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Having issues with a 2014 shutting down. Was at a stop light the other day and car completely lost power and shut down. When this happened oil, engine, and battery light came on. Once I parked car and turned off, it restarted. The dealership acted like I had no idea what I was talking about and would like to have some information when I take it back to have this problem corrected the car is not even 2 years old and has 30,000 miles on it.
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I have a 2004 f250 superduty. I lost all electric to truck. No lights, radio, etc. Turn key and no click or dash lights. I put a charger directly to battery and nothing. Is there a main fuse in power line prior to the fuse box under the dash??
Also, right before this happened, I went to start my truck and my batteries were low, the truck turned over a few times, started dying, so I turned the key off, and the truck kept turning over on its own, as if the circuit remained closed for ignition due to low battery, and it turned over by itself until the battery was completely dead. But putting my battery charger on it now gives me no electric at all.
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I have a 2004 Civic Hybrid with 120,000 miles. It's been lurching when I step on the gas. I took it to a mechanic who said all 4 motor mounts were 'broken' and they replaced them. The car is still in the shop and they are saying that the lurching is not fixed. They say there is a problem with the transmission but they don't do transmissions. Should I tell them to put the old motor mounts back on? Is it safe to drive with broken motor mounts or a transmission that is causing the car to lurch?
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A few days ago I posted a thread about losing power on a steep hill climb with a cold engine. I replaced the hybrid battery and all seemed well. A few days later, the problem occurred again--bummer. (The car has 120K miles and has spent most of its life in a hot and mountainous environment, and I knew the hybrid battery was failing, so that's not a problem.)
The car starts the climb OK, gains a few hundred feet in elevation, still has some charge left in the hybrid battery, then loses power, surges a couple of times, then comes to stop. The engine continues to run at idle and I get no warning or check engine lights. The "ready" light stays on. This time, the second time it happened, I turned off the car, turned it back on again immediately, and all was well. The remainder of the 1000' climb went fine. As did several other similar climbs on the same drive. Since then I've climbed this hill with a cold engine without a problem, so it's intermittent.
I hesitate to pay Toyota for a code scan since the check engine light did not come on. Should I do this anyway? My local auto parts store will scan for free, but I know that their scanner will not read Toyota-specific codes, just industry standards.
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My 2003 Honda Civic Hybrid has lurched for over a year now. The dealership has run tests and can't seem to figure it out -- though my budget has only allowed them to take a look at it 2 or 3 times.
Things I know:
* lurches are accompanied by RPM fluctuations
* only lurches at slow speeds (under 30 mph?)
* only lurches on a slow, steady deceleration -- does not lurch in acceleration or quick deceleration
* dealership replaced O2 sensor; had no effect
* Jiffy Lube flushed oil and (I think) transmission fluid systems; had no effect
* previous owner did not perform regular maintenance; missed oil changes, etc.
* lurching seemed to get really bad last summer, getting progressively worse until the car died on the road. The nearest mechanic said I was out of oil (which surprised me because I had changed the oil maybe 2 months prior?
)* lurching can be minimized by turning off AC/heat
Things that MIGHT be playing a part? seems like it gets worse in summer heat. Definitely still happens in winter though, so this may be my imagination.
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Two weeks ago, my husband and I drove about 90 minutes to a nearby mountain for some snowshoeing. Everything with the car was fine, until we stopped (for about 5 minutes), after which the car BARELY started. When it was time to go home, the same thing happen, and the battery light was on (not the hybrid battery, but just the regular battery). Since the car was running, mostly, and it was Saturday afternoon, we decided to try to make it home. Since the battery wasn't charging, one by one, all the electrical systems shut down, starting with the wipers and ending with the fuel pump. We drifted to a stop on the side of the road.
AAA came and jumped us, which not only got us going but seemed to have solved the problem. The battery tested fine, and Honda ran tests on the car for 3 hours and couldn't find anything wrong. However, we're clearly nervous about taking the car out of town. There was a similar incident a couple months ago, but not nearly as severe - the batter started charging again on it's own after just a couple minutes.
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I'm trying to fix a transmission problem with my work truck. It's a company owned, 2011 f150 super cab, 2wd, 5.0 and 6 speed auto. It currently has 225K miles. The problem is very random occurring 2-3 times per week, usually happens on start up, and goes away after a hand full of engine restarts. It has happened twice on the freeway, the transmission releases and a complete loss of power and coasts to a stop. At the same time, the speedometer goes to zero regardless of vehicle speed. Normally, when it happens, the speedometer does not read, all the mpg, miles to E, and related meters show bars "-----". The vehicle starts and takes off ok, but when it tries to shift, it just releases and the truck coasts to a stop. It will repeat this for a while.
After several restarts, the truck goes back to normal. This has happened a couple dozen times now. The wrench and check engine light came on during the very first instance, but the auto shop said there were no trouble codes stored. They kept it for a week, and said it never reoccurred. I have a lousy video that shows, when this happens, the trans starts in 2nd, jumps to 5th, then 2nd, then 5th. I am past due for a new work truck and this one is on its way out, but has to last another couple of months! This truck has otherwise been very problem free and well maintained. I'm actually thinking of trying to pick it up cheap, if the repair is not too bad.
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I have a 2008 Honda Civic Hybrid with 95,000 miles. Today I drove to the top of Trail Ridge Road in Rocky Mountain National Park (this is at about 11,500 feet). At the top I was attempting to parallel park and the trouble began. I slowed and stopped the vehicle and shifted in to reverse. I put my foot on the accelerator to back up and the car started rolling forward. I looked at the gear indicator and the R was lit up but the D was also lit up and the Check Engine Light had illuminated and the car would not move at all. I shut off the vehicle and turned it back on and was able to shift in to Drive and drive away but the Check Engine Light was still on. No other problems with the driving, car sounds and feels the same. I drove off the mountain back in to the Denver area without any problems and was able to parallel park. Check Engine Light is still on - what might be going on. I do need an oil change shortly, but I don't know if that would cause these issues.
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I have a Honda Civic Hybrid 2005 that I drive fairly regularly. I keep up with all the maintenance never had a problem... That is until last year. In the heat wave of Northeast 2012, the car started stalling after long drives. It only happened in mid to late august when temperatures started reaching the 90's. In the fall and winter the problem went away. I took it to the dealer in around October and they could not reproduce at first then later came back to tell me that it was the IACV valve. It promptly went away for the entirety of the winter and has now returned in june. As far as I can tell it only happens in the heat when you are idle after driving. It appears that the RPM's go to low (400<) and the thing stalls... How did you fix it? Can I do it myself? Where the hell is this IACV maybe I can clean it out or something?
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