Honda - Acura :: 2000 TL All Of A Sudden Stopped Starting - P1607 OBDII Code
Jan 6, 2015
I have an Acura 2000 TL. My car all of a sudden stopped starting. I called AAA and the tow truck driver did some repair like thing. The car started after this. He told me, there was a problem with the remote starter or security alarm issue. After that the car starts but the immobilizer light is completely off. It gives P1607 OBDII code. When I looked under the dash, I saw a black button and pressed on it. It gave some clicks and nothing happened. I pressed on it and turn the ignition switch on and off a couple of times and nothing happened. I pushed on the button while pressing on the brake peddle and released within 2 seconds etc. The car has a Code Alarm remote start with two button fob and it was disabled. I don't know whether the AAA driver enabled it causing the immobilizer bypass to actuate to have the P1607 code. The car starts ! What can I do to get the Code Alarm remote start to disable it?
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I have a 2000 Acura TL with 225,224 miles, runs very good. Recently it has not been starting all the time. Just grinds and not turn over. If I wait a while then try again, it will start and run very good. Mechanic could not duplicate problem. Checked everything he could think of even all the computers, could not find anything wrong. What to do now? I read that someone had the same problem with a 1995-or 98 (?) with their Acura Integra and the dealer could not resolve the problem.
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Two weeks ago I had to brake suddenly while driving in town and my A/C immediately stopped cooling although the fan continued to work. I drove it home and the next morning when I started my car the A/C worked fine. It was working fine until yesterday when I was driving and again had to brake suddenly to pull over after taking a wrong turn. The A/C immediately went out again. Only this time the A/C didn't ever start working correctly again.
2003 Honda Accord EX - A/C problem related to hard and sudden braking?
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I'm trying to figure what's going on with my car I drove it fine home then when I turned it off and tried to immediately afterwards adjust the parking the car wouldn't turn on with the clutch engaged. Tried several times to turn the engine then gave up. Next day I adjusted the pedal and pushed the pedal all the way to the floor and it came on.
But now I have the issue of the check engine light being on And VSA light checked the code and it says U0107 and the car won't go above 2000rpm. We tried changing the app sensor and it worked for a split second then went back to the code. Checked the battery voltage and battery is good. I then changed the throttle control relay under the glove box and still nothing.
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My 2002 Acura MDX is an automatic. Frequently while in the midst of driving and foot on gas, the car will all of a sudden rev as though it is in neutral. The RPMs rise and in order to gt the car to continue driving, I have to lift my foot off the gas completely and then it seems to re-engage and continue on. What could be causing the "neutral-like" blips while in drive?
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1987 Acura Integra Automatic, 160k I have been noticing - mostly for every start (there are a few in between that did not have that sound).
When starting, a loud sound (some what unbearable) heard and was hesitant and then the engine starts. Once started it runs fine. It is not the usual sound that the ignition makes when going bad.
What seems to be the issue? Right after I drained and filled AT fluid, it heard the first time. I have been doing AT fluid since nearly 10yrs ago with Honda fluid. I only did drain and fill and it went smoothly. In 2007, the tranny was replaced. After starting, the car runs smoothly - it is only when starting or just before engine try to start. Batt and alternator tests fine.
It hardly did it today - I might have once heard a girding sound just before starting.
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I I have Integra 94 RS, all of sudden it started to shake like crazy. it feels like the car has a stuffy nose (something clogged).
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2005 Hyundai Accent stalled on freeway today. It was running fine and suddenly stalled without warning. I tried to restart but the engine doesn't turnover just makes a electrical "weeee" sound. Battery works and lights work. Code reader gave P0340 and P0134 codes.
P0340 Camshaft position sensor "A" circuit malfunction bank 1 single sensor
probable causes:
-Open of short circuit condition
-poor electrical connection
-Faulty CMP sensor
-Engine Mechanical fault
P0134-Heated O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 1 (H02S11) circuit no activity detected
Probable cause:
-Poor electrical connection
-Rich or lean Air/Fuel ratio
-Engine mechanical condition
-Faulty H02S11 (Bank 1 sensor 1)
I'd like to fix it myself; where should I start?
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I'm the loving owner of an amazing '02 RSX. She is just about to hit 100K, and has been completely trouble free. This past sunday, I started it up in the morning and immediately noticed a semi-harsh vibration, with high idle speed (1500ish, normal is 500). If I give it gas, the vibration and rumble noise goes away, but if it put it in reverse, it seems to get worse. After a few miles of driving, the idle speed returns to normal and seems to feel/sound fine. Also of note, if i hit a dip in the road, i get a vibration and engine sound that resembles that of a flat tire. I know this sounds random, but it's the best I can do at describing it. There are no check engine lights, temp is fine, and otherwise seems to be driving great. I initially thought bad spark plug or air filter, but have since thought of vacuum pressure or O2 sensor, maybe even an engine bolt break (from the sound it makes driving into a dip). Could this be as simple as getting a bad batch of gas?
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I have a 99 town car with 78,000 miles. I filled the tank and have run about 1/4 tank when the engine started to misfire. Got the Service Engine Soon light so went to O'reily. The OBDII code is p0306 cyl 6 misfire. What would you check first?
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CEL, Triangle Displayed for the second time, Engine goes to READY, ICE starts and shuts down when I assume adequate charging is reached. However, OBD2 code thrown is P1636. Drives very well from what I can tell. But she just reported the CEL & Triangle went on again and she feels it is driving rough, like it is struggling.
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My 2000 honda accord v6 wont start (150,000 miles). It feels like its cranking over just wont go anywhere from there. So it doesn't seem like an starter issue or battery issue. It has done this to me in the past a couple of times but after letting it sit there for a bit it started back up. The weather hasn't been an issue on the times it wanted to start or not start. I know a oil change is due and
The EGR valve needs to be cleaned/replaced but could those things make my car from not starting? When i put the key in the car and turn it to the II, the Maintenance required light comes on and the light for the key just keeps blinking.
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What would make the OBD II not read the code that is set on my truck. It says "Communication Error..." Fuse 41 grants power to the Diagnostics port and the cigarette lighter. The cigarette lighter is working. Any other reasons I can look at?
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I got a Passat 2000 OBD-II scanner won't read for emissions testing. I did the test in 5 different place all the time when they ask to turn the key and the computer from emission test give a error and stop.
I have a radio aftermarket one of my friend have this problem and he have to install the original radio. So I buy the wire harness and the radio i install and still not able to do the emissions test.
My ABS light is flashing but my friend said this is not a problem he fix more than 4 car just replacing the aftermarket radio....
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CEL/OBDII code P0141 - O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction
So I just bought this car 64k well maintained but cant get rid of the check engine light. Replaced downstream O2 sensor with no luck. As soon as I get home I'll check voltage @ connector. Lets test the O2 sensor connection and test the pins to make sure there is no break in the wires.
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My speedometer stopped working yesterday. I would like to find out what might have caused that to happen and what I'd need to do to get it fixed.
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I have a 1996 Acura RL 3.5 with the premium package, if that makes any difference. When I start the car, i hear a buzzing sound which sounds like it is coming from the ABS system. The ABS light comes on continuously until the buzzing stops, then turns off. I was told by the mechanic that Honda no longer makes the system to flush the ABS system, which would likely fix my problem but instead said I would need to put in a new ABS pump and put in a refurbished accumulator-cost $1600+, more if I put in all new parts.
I want to disable it because I can't afford that sort of repair and the brakes work fine with the ABS. The mechanic said they would do it but it is "illegal" for them to do so. I have the manual for the under the hold fuse box, it has 4 fuses for ABS listed. ABS Unit, ABS B2, ABS B1 and ABS Motor. Which ones do I pull and is there anything else I would need to do to disable it.
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I have a 1989 Acura Integra standard shift. Without any pattern, the car won't start. All the lights come on when I turn the key but there is no sound indicating it trying to turn over. If I leave it alone for a little while, it will often start. By the way, this never happens in the morning even in below freezing temperatures.
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My a/c blows nice cold air, then all of a sudden click it stops as if the cabin reached the ideal temperature, but the cabin is warming up. I dial down to LO but the A/C doesn't start blowing cold air. I shut off the car, restart and it starts blowing cold again. I even got it to start blowing cold air again when I accelerated, speed off.
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I have a 2009 Acura TSX that I bought used ~85,000 miles on it. It has been inspected 5 times and each mechanic says the car is basically new in perfect condition. However, it has an extremely difficult time starting after sitting in cold temperatures for more than about 12 hours. If I drive it every 8 hours or so it is fine. Everything has been checked repeatedly; alternator, wiring, battery connection etc. .. . The battery is only 3 months old.
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Engine light is on, Auto Zone has given me a code of P1491 it mentioned open or short circuit condition, poor electrical connection, failed EGR valve. There are times when I push on the gas or brake the car hesitates and gives a little jerk.
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