Honda - Accord - Suspension :: Rattle From Front Passenger Side As If A Bolt Is Loose And Jiggling Around
Mar 26, 2011
I have recently replaced all 4 struts in my car with monroe quick struts. I have a 2002 Accord. Everything went wonderful until a few weeks later I heard a rattle from the front passenger side. Its a light "tinny" rattle, almost as if a bolt was loose and it was jiggling around. It doesn't happen every time and sometimes goes away altogether. I took it to my trusted mechanic, and they spend a good 45 minutes inside looking at things and overtightened everything to no avail. I have ruled out a defective strut (as I replaced it with one and the new one does the same thing) and I ruled out the stabilizer bar bushing (brand new OEM part I installed) and I ruled out the sway bar link (also new).
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My 2012 Avalon developed a slight rattle at 9000 miles that continued to get worse. I took off the right front wheel today and found the top caliper bolt partially loosened. I could turn it with my FINGERS! The other one was tight as were the ones on the left side.
To diagnose this rattle, find a bumpy road that makes it rattle. Put your foot lightly on the brake (to load the caliper). If the noise goes away, it is probably a loose caliper bolt.
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Have a 2003 Honda Accord with 178K miles on it. Excellent service and maintenance on the car. After this winter (midwest) I notice a creaking sound (like bedsprings) coming from the front end, passenger side. Car also seems rather bouncy on rough roads. Husband check the shocks and struts and says they are fine. What else could it be? Sway bar, ball joints, etc. and estimated cost - will take to a mechanic...
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So I drive a 98 Honda, 118k miles, and for last month I've got a really strange noise coming from my front passenger side wheel. It happens when I apply the brakes, usually at a slow speed, slowing down from something like 30mph to a stop. When slowing down, if I have just a bit of pressure on the brake, the noise seems to go along with the speed of the wheels. It also happens when I accelerate from a stop.
I can only describe it as a kind of creaking noise, almost like it is coming from the spring. Sometimes it sounds a little tinny, sometimes not so much. I don't think its actually in the suspension, because it doesn't make noise if I go over speed bumps or press down on the fender. Brake pads have a good amount of pad left on them.
My hunch is that it might have something to do with the fact that I hardly ever drive anymore, somewhere around 10-20 miles a week, back and forth to the subway essentially (fair amount of time driving down banked turns in a parking garage if that adds any info). My dad knows a decent amount about cars, but he isn't sure what is going on, though he thinks it nothing dangerous. Strange wheel noises always make me wary though.
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I have a '98 Accord. It's got some issues and I am in the process of buying a new vehicle. But need to have a driveable car for work in the meantime. I have a torn boot on the front passenger side. Front brakes are also pretty worn down, not mention the Cat converter is shot and rusted. I'm getting a very loud, grinding noise when I turn to the left. Very loud noise. Some noise when turning to the right but not nearly as loud. My mechanic looked at the car a week ago and told me too many problems to fix the car, get a new one. which I am but it's taking some time. I'm just wondering if you think the car is likely safe enough to continue to drive until I get the new car. It's the loud grinding noise that freaks me out.
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My 2013 has developed a rattle. The rear window visor (outside) on passenger side is loose - or loosening up... and rattles a lot when driving, which is very annoying.... Took a quick look to see how this thing is held into place, not quite sure what's best way to take it apart...
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How do you get the front lower control arm bolt off of the passenger side? There isn't even enough room to get a short socket between the bolt and the oil pan...
I imagine I can get it off with a box wrench and some sweat. But then how do you torque it putting it back on? Crows foot?
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I own a 2011 IS350 RWD. My 4 year warranty just expired. So when it comes to rattles, the 4yr/50k miles no longer cover my rattle concern.
I spent about my 3rd year on a rattle that seems like only occurs when its cold. On cold days/morning, this rattle between the dash will come and it sounds like a bolt is loose, and is moving around or something like that along the lines of that.
So right before my 4th year mark came, I brought it in one last time to hope they can get rid of it. Once I got the car back, it was during winter.. so it still happened, but instead it was a lot louder than before.
Is there anything I can do? Since I've been trying to bring it in to get it checked out for a good year, I'm hoping there's a way for the dealership to honor that one concern I have with my IS.
Other than this rattle, I love my car. The rattle can get pretty bad/annoying especially when you're on a phone call. I bring this issue up during every oil change to get it checked out.
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The red dash light for my parking brake stays on until I jiggle the brake handle, then it stays off until I re-start the car the next time and then it goes on again. Brake fluid is fine.
Appears to be a faulty switch attached to the handle. How do I fix this? Is it a major job? [it's a 1998 Honda Accord]
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I owe a GTI autobahn 2015! I have problems with the front suspension (left side) sounds like is all loose, took the car to the dealer all they did is tight a bolt that is part of it! Problem still remain!!
When going over speed bumps and pot holes the front suspensions hit very hard like the shocks are not doing their job property!! This is causing the body of the car to start coming loose! I can hear some noises like an old car!!
Is normal or they need to be replaced,, i always drive in sport mode!!
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I was doing some work on my R today and noticed something. On the passenger side front half shaft, at the transmission side, there is a bolt that has worked itself lose that is rubbing against it. I cannot get a bit into the bolt to tighten it back up as is since it is pressed against the shaft.
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I have a 2002 accord 4-cyl with a 5-speed with 89,xxx miles. Just a few months ago, I noticed a clunking sound coming from the front suspension when I go over certain bumps. "Certain" bumps are usually wavy pavement or dips (not wide dips, but short/concise ones), and sometimes certain speed bumps. Sometimes the sound happens regardless of the types of bumps though, but the aforementioned ones usually bring the noise quite consistently. The sound hasn't really gotten worse, but it hasn't been getting better either.
A while back when I had my timing belt done, the mechanic stated that one (or more) of my engine mounts were worn. Is it possible one or more of my engine mounts is the source of this issue (from the engine "rattling" around in the compartment. I'm not sure if that's even possible, just a hypothesis) or is it purely suspension. PS. The sound isn't quite a sharp metal on metal sound. Its more of a "thump" or "clunk" coming from the front end (left or right) as if its bottoming out or a bushing or spacer has worn off. Its just loud enough to drive me crazy, and sometimes I can feel it through the floor.
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I have 2010 LS460L with 76K miles and I hear rattle noise in from driver and passenger side. I took it to the Lexus service center and they said it's the air suspension problem and need to replace this part and would cost about $2K per suspension.
My question is is there anyway I could convert this air suspension to standard coil or gas shocks from Air suspension??
I will be using this for a Limo in NYC and the road conditions are terrible and air suspension is not going to last that long and they are expensive.
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I have a 99 F250 Super Duty 4x4. The u-bolt bracket on the front passenger side has rusted through and broken in two places. It has broken right at the hole for one of the u-bolts, which then broke the sway bar bracket off (so the sway bar is no longer attached on the passenger side). Also, the track bar bracket has broken off.
Is there a replacement bracket that can be purchased? Or does it need to be fabricated from scrap? The u-bolt bracket, sway bar bracket, and track bar bracket are all one whole piece. It is welded to the axle, so it would need to be cut off. Then the new bracket would need to be welded back on.
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I've had a wet passenger side rear floor in my Accord for the past year now when I run the A/C. Two mechanics including a Honda dealership have told me the A/C drain is not plugged. One of them ran compressed air through the drain and it seemed to be better for about a week and then started again. How to investigate the matter further. The floor does not smell like coolant. It just feels like and smells like water.
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My LS460 recently developed a rattle from the front drivers side. It's triggered more by rumbles/vibrations from an uneven surface rather than speed bumps or large pot holes.
It sounds a bit like a washer vibrating on a metal tray (for what that's worth)!
Interestingly though it gets a LOT worse when the car is in 'Comfort' suspension mode, and is nowhere near as bad in 'Sports' mode. So it seems that having the suspension higher gives this thing more room to rattle.
I noticed in the service history that the front passenger air strut was replaced 30k ago, so I'm worrying that there is a large bill on the horizon.
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2003 Accord EX, about 145K miles. About a year ago, the back passenger side door would not lock. So now I just keep it locked and if I ever need it open, I reach back to unlock it. About 6 months ago, the front passenger side door stopped responding to a lock command. But the funny thing was, when it started to show signs of weakness, I could press lock (on driver side door or remote) about 5 or 6 times and it would eventually make its way down or up. Eventually, it just stopped working altogether. So now I have 2 out of 4 doors that lock and unlock remotely or by the master unlock/lock button on the driver's side. I have found NO other issues with the car that would seem related to this. The AC has stopped blowing cold air but it did this last summer too (and fixed itself) so I think that is unrelated. I am happy, willing, and able to do any minor fixes myself on the car.
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Just got the 2010 and put 100 miles on it and found the front bumper loose on the passenger side. Difficult to see but it looked loose right by the headlight housing, a little pull and it popped up. Looked like the fastener was never there.
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My friend has a question about his 2001 Honda 2 dr. Accord, V6. After he first starts the car and backs straight or turns, there is a bad sound near the passenger front side, maybe in near the wheel. Once the car has been started, say, and he goes forward and then backs up there is no noise. But the first time out of the parked position, it is very noticeable. He said he has noticed it almost a year. Is the transaxle a problem? Is it dangerous.. only on the first startup and back up and it ends shortly, but sounds bad. It is not with brake application either, so not a brake pad I don't think and he has those checked and replaced, so don't know what to think.
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92 Honda accord. This car has two radiator fans. The passenger side fan comes on intermittently after the car has been shut off, causing the cars battery to drain. If the battery isn't disconnected then the car has to be jumped every time due to the fan running. Cars temp doesn't get hot, checked coolant, everything seems to be working fine.
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I have a 10th anniversary Honda Accord. When you apply the emergency brake, the passenger rear wheel brake does not engage. This car appears to have 2 master cylinders, but I could not find any documentation to confirm. Is this correct? The reservoir on the passenger side is way above the max mark. I'm thinking this is somehow related to the e-brake issue.
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