I drive an automatic transmission. After driving about 10 miles, when I come to a stop sign/stoplight in drive 4, the car will "brake" but will idle and then violently shake back into gear. It doesn't seem to happen in Drive 3, so what I do before a stoplight etc is slowly shift down to D2 or D1. Is the transmission totally shot? I had it replaced once.
View 19 RepliesWhy does my 2008 Honda Fit intermittently shake when AC is on, in drive, and foot on brake?The shake is every 2 to 10 seconds, darn short each time, and hardly strong. (If it happens when I'm driving then it would be hard to notice). It definitely does not happen when in park or the AC is off.
Three weeks ago I got a rebuilt transmission. This issue started for the first time 3 days ago when the weather turned very hot for the first time in a while, although I have used the AC from time to time beforehand. Is it safe to drive over the weekend?
1991 Honda Civic, automatic transmission, the car/steering wheel shake badly when the car stops at the red light. It only happens when brake pedal is pressed AND in D gear. If shift from D to N, the shake disappears. As soon as the traffic light turns green and the car starts to accelerate, the shake disappears. Four spark plugs were replaced, no effect at all.
View 13 RepliesI drive a 2003 Honda Accord and it shakes violently whenever I'm accelerating between 55 and 65 mph. If you put a shaker on the passenger seat, you'd have a martini. Approaching 55, it's fine, and then it shakes as I go up to 65 and then smooths out when I pass 65. If I am cruising, but not accelerating in between 55 and 65, it stops shaking, but once I hit the gas, it shakes.
The same phenomenon occurs in both third and fourth gears, so it doesn't appear to be related to what part of the power band the car is in. This model Accord had a recall on the engine mounts, which I had replaced at no small cost already.
I have a 2000 Honda Accord EX v6 and I have been taking it the dealer for regular maintenance and Oil Change but today I noticed my Car would not start
I can hear the engine start , but when I put the Gear (automatic ) in either reverse or D4 the engine will stop.
Then I waited for some time and restarted it and It was OK.
I recently bought a 1998 Honda Accord with 124,000 miles. The car had one owner for 14 years. The carfax indicates the owner maintained service on the vehicle, but didn't go into detail about the work that was done. (only that the started had be replaced) When I come to a complete stop the car downshifts rough into first gear. It almost feels like it slightly jumps forward. Is this a problem I need to address and if so what is the problem? I bought it from a trusted dealership who had their mechanics give it a check and said nothing was wrong with it.
View 6 RepliesNewly acquired 2002 Accord.
At idle and while at a stop, the cabin receives a heavy dose of exhaust fumes (nope, not from the auto in front of me - I'm often alone at stop lights/signs)... what is the most likely culprit?
This did not seem to occur until AFTER I had the timing belt (package) replaced...coincidence
I have a 2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport edition, automatic transmission, about 100k miles. Recently, when I turn on the engine -- sometimes -- it is very loud, and the car really shakes back and forth (in place) with the engine. It almost feels like the car is going to die. It feels like a very bad idle. If I wait, nothing changes. If I turn the car off, wait, and turn it back on, nothing changes. If I hit the gas, it continues, but decreases very quickly and by the time I hit a stop sign or red light (let's say 100 yards away), the car is more or less fine; no more fear that it's going to die, although there's still some noise that seems like it's coming from somewhere between the transmission and engine. I had the starter replaced last June (when it went kaput) and replaced the idle control valve a couple of months ago (the car kept dying when I came to a complete stop). I mainly drive it to/from work, about 50 miles each way, going 45-80 mph on a hilly freeway, and there have been no problems while driving.
View 2 RepliesI am getting what i think is death wobble at around 45-55 mph in my 2012 but not near as violent as others/videos have described. I do not have a lift but i do have 35x55x12 mud tires. I got an alignment but it is still happening. I have read that it is usually caster but i thought this was only in lifted trucks? I am putting a 3.5 inch lift on it to better clear my tires in a couple of weeks and it comes with a trac bar relocation bracket. Will this fix the issue? I have checked tie rods/ball joints as well and they seem ok. Will the relocation bar fix the issue? I also have dual stabilizers on it. That firm up the steering after i put the tires on but the intermittent wobble is still there. Most of my driving is between 45-55mph so it can become annoying.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2000 Grand AM cylin. Recently I was driving when my car started to shake violently. I drove it to the side of the road to a parking lot then it died. I started it up again and is ran but shacking a lot again. Once I got home, 3 blocks away the car died again. I tried to start it again but it would only turn but not start the engine. I have checked the gas pump, motor mounts, oil and anti freez for oil. I did check the timing chain but I don't know much on how it should be.
View 2 RepliesI just had vehicle inspected and replaced the wheel hub assemblies on the front Left and Right wheels in order to pass. Now while driving strong shaking occurs occasionally when over 60+ mph or at any time after a hit a bump in the road. have to slow down below 30 for it to stop.
View 6 RepliesSo I have come into ownership of a 2003 Prius and now I'm having issues with the power steering. I contacted Toyota and they told me the recal for the pinions was completed in 2012. Now own in the car I've noticed the steering wheel will start to violently shake and just last week while driving I got the warning triangle and the PS symbol and I lost all power steering. All this happened while driving on a highway. Toyota wanted to charge me 150 to diagnose the problem which I declined and took it to my well trusted mechanic. He told me the rac needs to replace. I've done a lot of research on this problem and have found many people complaining that even after having the recall done, they still had a problem and also were told the rac needs to be replaced.
View 9 RepliesSo I backed into a pole in a parking lot the other day with my 1996 Honda Accord. After that I've noticed a creaking noise when I get into my car and when I'm driving it, EXCEPT when I take hard turns... then there's no noise. I can reproduce the noise by pushing on my bumper. The only visible damage to my bumper is a little scraping around where the exhaust pipe is. Is this just the bumper itself making this creaking noise or could it be something more serious?
View 2 RepliesThe red dash light for my parking brake stays on until I jiggle the brake handle, then it stays off until I re-start the car the next time and then it goes on again. Brake fluid is fine.
Appears to be a faulty switch attached to the handle. How do I fix this? Is it a major job? [it's a 1998 Honda Accord]
Every morning when i leave to work my brake light begins to turn on, when i go over a bump or brake it shuts off. But only happens in the mornings when my car sits over night or long periods of time . What is the cause of this and how can it be replaced?
View 7 RepliesAt any speed my car likes to slow down a bit then go back up to speed... feels like little mini lurches. Why... dirty fuel injectors?
View 6 Replies1991 Honda Auto trans, 247k miles. We now have the third transmission in the car and it still does not shift into over-drive-4th. Odds seem poor that all 3 were actually bad.What now?
View 9 RepliesMy car vibrates really bad when stopped and in drive. It does not vibrate in park or neutral. I took the car into my local mechanic who replaced the spark plugs, idle air control valve, throttle body gasket, charged me and it actually runs worse. The mechanic assigned to my car said he couldn't feel it so just replaced what he thought might be causing this vibration. It took me a day to calm down and take the car back and speak to the manager of the department who was amazed at how bad the car vibrated. 2002 Honda Accord 86,000 miles....
View 7 RepliesI have a 2002 honda accord I4 coupe (ULEV edition) with a peculiar problem. The problem is that the pistons are pushing down too hard on the connecting rod/crank shaft bearings (creating a banging noise when I drive or accelerate in neutral). It could be a timing issue (spark igniting too early?) but the check engine light is not on.
I have had a mechanic look at the engine and they have determined that
1) Oil pressure is normal
2) Bearing clearance is good (meets specification)
3) Cam timing is good.
4) Balance shaft clearance is good
5) Thrust clearance is good
The mechanics are not sure what is causing the problem. What else to check? Seafoam was added to the gas tank weeks before the problem surfaced. Could the car's computer be damaged?
I have a 93 Honda accord EX and most times when i drive it, the car will become unresponsive to the gas and slow down and then speed back up. I went to a shop can Budget transmissions and they told me that the problem was it need a new fuel pump and when I asked them if that was for sure the problem they said yes. He told me to get fuel additive to clean out the engine cause it may still be a little laggy.
I drove the car to autozone and then home and it drove perfectly. A few hours later it did the unresponsive thing again and when i told the mechanic he said i had to put about 70 miles on it. I HAVE DRIVEN OVER 100 MILES NOW and it still lags like I haven't even gotten the fuel pump replaced. I haven't called the mechanic yet and i wanted to know if i should ask for a refund or what to do. My brother also said it may be the oxygen sensor haven gone bad so should I ask the mechanic to replace it for free?
I have a honda accord 2003 ex. I bought the car over a year ago. A couple months in with the car i started to feel that the car vibrates while in idle. I replace the motor mounts and the shaking is still there. When i drive the car at night with the headlights on the shaking gets worse. If i put it in neutral sometimes there is no shaking and sometimes you can feel it a little bit. Also, in the summer when i turn on the ac the shaking gets so much worse, even if i put it in neutral the shaking is still pretty bad. One more thing, when i turn on the heat and put the car in neutral there is not too much shaking. I just don't know what to do anymore.
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