Honda - Accord :: Wheels Are Screeching
Apr 12, 2011
Ok, so the other day we went to a friends home and we parked our car on the driveway which was about a 45 degree angle. We stayed for about an hour and when we left my wheels started making a hissing sound or a scratching sound. When I use the breaks the sound goes away but it continues all the time when I drive. Even at high rates of speed. It never did this before. Is it something with using the e-break on an angle or something. I do nto know what it could be.
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I had major tune up on my vehicle. First I had the timing belt and accessory belts replaced including of course the water pump. I also had the shocks replaced. My question is now everytime I start the car I would hear a screeching noise for several seconds and also when I engaged the a/c. Furthermore, in regards to my shocks when I drive over 60 mph my steering wheel begins to vibrate tremendously.
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My honda accord is an 05 model, and ever since my mother passed it down to me a year ago, EVERYTHING has been breaking. As of a week ago, any time I turn on the ac, the car shudders violently. It first started when I was parked with the engine on for about an hour, and a low screeching noise along with a smell like burning rubber started emanating from the engine. The noise stopped whenever I turn off the ac, and now it shudders when I turn it on.
Along with that, for the last several months before it completely screwed up, the air being pumped out of the left side of the vehicle was noticeably warmer then the right side. And lastly, starting today, the back center light is fine, but the brake lights don't turn on when I hit the brakes but do turn on when I turn on the headlights. What is going on?
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My son wrecked his 01 Honda, front drivers side front. After replacing his wheel and headlight, his front wheels will turn left but won't turn right all the way.
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I have a 2002 Honda Accord SE and I observe that the transmission slips, meaning the car revs but does not power the wheels. I have got this checked by a mechanic and he recommended a transmission replacement or live with it until it completely fails and then go for a transmission rebuild/replacement. The car has 115k miles on it and I did not do a transmission flush as per recommendation from the mechanic. He said that if I flush the transmission fluid, there is a high chance that the transmission will fail and will need an immediate replacement. I do not have any issues with the way the car drives now, but I am worried if something happens to the transmission while I am driving.
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I own a 2003 Honda Accord with approximately 90,000 miles. I've noticed a metallic-sounding clank coming from what sounds like the front wheels when I go over all potholes and road imperfections (which are frequent in NY). Additionally, if I travel over the same potholes or road imperfections while on the brakes, there's no noise. More recently, I've noticed an additional noise. If I am traveling at a slow speed, such as parking or driving in a fast food drive thru, I'll hear a loud clicking coming from the front wheels as they turn, when I have the wheel turned.
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When I was driving my car the engine was running fine, but all of a sudden there would be no power to the wheels as I was driving. I tried shifting the car down into lower gears, but the car still was just coming to a stop even though I was revving the engine. I was able to limp home because I could turn the car off for about 30 seconds, and when I would start it back up the engine and transmission would work fine together for a few blocks and then I would have the same problem. I did check my transmission fluid, which was low (at the lower dot when hot). Could this problem be fixed by simply changing and filling the transmission fluid? Or do you think it is something else? My car is an automatic with about 114,000 miles. At about 98,000 miles I had a full tune-up and my timing belt was replaced.
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Just got my timing belt replaced along with the accessory belts and the water pump. I noticed that now my wheels screech when i turn the wheel all the way to the left. This happens mostly when i am pulling in or out of parking spots as that is the only time i need to turn my wheel all the way. I also noticed that when i first turn on my car for the first time in the day, i have high rpms. The rpm returns to normal after i put it in reverse or drive. I didn't have this problem before.
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New owner of a GX 460. Noticed that when driving in the parking garage and turning around the corners, the wheels make screeching noise. the GX 460 is not a very big SUV but it feels like i'm driving a huge truck when trying to turn.
And also need confirmation that during normal driving, the central differential should be disconnected, which means a yellow icon showing on the dial, i.e., a yellow icon that shows a cross in between the four wheels.
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My own this Honda Odyssey since 2008. I found this strange problem when I drove it from Tuscon to Phoenix during a Windy day, it was making kind of Howling Screeching noise at the Drivers window. then it went away. Then I realized it happens only when the Wind is blowing at a specific Angle and when the Van is at some high speed.
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My '98 Honda CRV with 190k miles has begun to make a curious sort of noise. I noticed a sort of humming noise coming from in front and somewhat to the left of the steering wheel a couple weeks ago, but could never get it to happen while I had the hood up in my driveway. The other day I rolled down the window and drove slowly around my neighborhood to figure out what made the noise happen.
First thing I learned is that it is much louder than I initially thought. And it sounds like a sort of screeching metal on metal sound, with a sort of humming. It always starts when I am moving slowly, such as when starting from a stop at a stop light, or going very slowly around the neighborhood. Turning the steering wheel seems to aggravate it, and make it more likely to start screeching. It will begin while driving straight, however. Once the noise begins, it stays until I come back to a complete stop.
I even tried stopping it by putting it in neutral and using the parking brake, and no difference, so nothing to do with the brakes. The brake rotors were also turned by the previous owner before selling it. My first guess would be a CV joint, because the boot on that wheel is not sealed properly. But my father, in his experience, says bad CV joints could make the steering feel more loose, and when starting and stopping you could feel some slop, neither of which he could detect when driving it. Steering feels tight, there is no play, and I have not been able to detect any other deficiency besides that awful noise.
So, is this a CV joint? A wheel bearing? Is it something else I have not thought of? And, how difficult are these to replace yourself with a good set of tools?
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I leased a 2010 Honda Civic (non-hybrid) in March of 2010. I had to replace the front brake pads at 8K miles, 18.5K miles and now again at 27K miles. Each time, I get a screeching, grinding noise from the driver-side front wheel. At 8K, I went to a dealership (not the one where I got the car) who replaced them for free "as a courtesy" (apparently, brake pads aren't covered under the warranty). At 18.5K, I went to the dealership where I leased the car from; they said that it didn't look like the other dealer had actually performed the work (yet somehow, the screeching noise went away). They charged me $250 to replace the brake pads and buff the rotors. Now, at 27K, the screeching noise has returned. The dealership has warrantied their prior work and isn't charging me. They claim that there is nothing wrong with the braking system. When I asked them why the pads keep going after 9K miles, they said they don't know, and maybe its the way I brake. I do 80+% highway driving and while I do encounter stop and go traffic on a daily basis, I don't think this is normal.
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I have a 2003 Honda Civic EX. Purchased used with 82,530 on it. Current mileage of about 114,100 on it now. I recently replaced the front and rear brakes. During that process, I was informed that the rear brakes were warped (they were cleaned & adjusted when I replaced the front brakes, but they continued to squeak like a transit bus). I had the rear shoes replaced and there is no more squeaking, but I get a "drag" that is particularly noticeable when riding at highway speeds (55mph or higher). The drag seems to come from the rear right of the car, and it reminds me of what you might feel if you were driving against the emergency brake.
Took the car back to the mechanic that did the rear brakes. He started down the road of it being bad ball bearings. He test drove it with me and experienced the drag, but when he put it on the lift said something was catching and made an adjustment that eliminated this 'drag'. My impression was that the drag came from some oversight when the rear shoes were replaced.
The car rode fine for a few days after that, but now the dragging symptom is back. The mechanic's assumption was that it could be a ball bearing that is on it's way to going bad. I don't hear any noises in relationship to this drag. It feels either like something is holding the car back, or like something is keeping the power from the engine from making it to the wheels.
Is this a wheel bearing/brake issue? Would needing new spark plugs have any impact on this?
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One car, which I have used a lot recently, had the check engine light come on yesterday, it was on all day, morning and evening, today it is off. I asked the person who had it last; he said it was not on. He did mention he filled it with premium, and I usually use the cheep stuff. Could this have just been some sort of adjustment to the new gas? Should I be concerned still? Or should I just let it go since the light is now off? I was going to try and go to a mechanic next week, but would prefer not to as I would have to take vacation time to do so. While cheaper, the maintenance and time-off involved is the down side to my companies program. Do I check it out? Or let it go? It's a 2007 Honda Accord Fleet Edition with 30,000 miles.
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I have a 1992 Honda Accord EX 5speed the car has 185k miles runs great but every time I fire up the car I run it for like a mile, if that, and the surging begins, it won't go over 2k rpm so when that happens I pull over for about a minute or two and then the car drives normal again. I'm still working on the problem finding and fixing little glitches here and there...
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So I have a 1998 Honda Accord EX V6. When I turn off the car all the lights in the Dash are on without the key and sometimes the car stays on without the key. The only way I can turn off the car is by pressing the brakes. Don't know what exactly it can be. Also the doors and the battery light in the dash will flash when rolling the windows up or down.
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I am a happy owner of a 98 Honda Accord Lx (4 cylinder). This car and I have been through a lot. A few weeks ago I went into the dealership because the check engine light came on. They said I had no oil in the car, did an oil change, and sent me on my way. The following week I broke down after coolant came pouring from my car.
A different dealership said that there was an oil leak that compromised the hose carrying the antifreeze, which caused it to break, and as a result the thermometer broke. My first question... do I confront the first dealership that swore they checked & inspected everything to figure out why my oil was so low? Now, the question of MOST IMPORTANCE... The second mechanic that worked on it told me that the transmission was going. It was brought to my attention about 9 months ago that there may be a small leak in the transmission. Well, it still ran fine. Occasionally it wouldn't have the smoothest shift, but was nothing big.
Well, the same week the second mechanic mentioned this, and my need to start looking for a new car, the transmission is a complete mess! It jerks and won't shift as quickly, and I can't think of how to describe it easily, but when it jerks it does it multiple times.
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We have a 92 Honda Accord 2.2L We have been trying to get it to pass emissions since October. So far we have replace the gas cap, replaced the O2 sensor and replaced the EGR valve. Here are the readings 25/25 test 50/15 testHC ppm 17 29CO% .07 .20NO ppm 1162 1230 after replacing the O2 sensor but before the EGR the 25/25 side passed reading 1005CO+CO2 % 15 15
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I have a 96' honda accord LX and I have no low beams. Set on low beams I have no lights. Set on high beams sometime it switches to low beams, then 3 or 4 minute pass and it stays on high beams for the duration of the car ride till I turn the car off.
I have replaced the dimmer relay and the turn signal switch. What's wrong with it? A guy at auto zone it could be one of my body control modulators, is this it?
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I replaced the valve cover gasket set and that stopped the oil leak. A few months later it looks like the vtec valve assy. is leaking. Should I replace the vtec valve assy. or just the gaskets?
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My 07 Accord V6 won't turn over. Brand new battery showing 12.5 volts, and I checked all the fuses. All other electrical is in working condition. Had the wife turn the key while I tapped on the starter with no luck. Then I measured the voltage coming into the solenoid from the starter while sitting there and 0 volts, then had the wife turn the key and it was showing 10.5 volts.
I took off the kick panel and swapped the ACC relay for the starter cut relay ( they're identical) and still nothing. I'm pretty much down to it being a problem with the ignition switch, but I'm not looking forward to getting into the steering column. What else it could be, or have some tips for what I should do / be looking for if I get into the steering column?
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