Honda - Accord :: Vibration And Engine Louder After Timing Belt Change
Feb 1, 2011
I have a 98 Honda Accord 4 cylinder with 110k miles on it. It used to be very quite and drives smoothly. I recently had my timing belt and water pump replaced. Right after i got my car back from my mechanic, the driving felt differently. Two main problems, first, every time I stop at red lights or traffic, the car vibrates and you can feel it from the steering wheel. Second, when I start to accelerate and when engine is over 2100 rpm, the engine becomes much louder than before, I feel like I am driving a race car. Other than these two problems, the can seems to drive fine. I took it back and they told me this is normal and takes time to settle down. Is this normal after the time belt change or what might have gone wrong?
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My mechanic just did the timing bet, water pump and other belts. Also changed the tensioner.
Car runs fine and everything seems great until I get to a red light. The engine sounds louder then before. Not very loud but its louder and maybe a very slight vibration, not sure yet. No noises while driving, seems like its running the same or better then before. Runs fine though
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My dad changed the timing belt on my 99 CR-V in August and he had some trouble getting it in time (he had to tear down and put it back together 3 times!). Sometime after the timing belt/water pump/spark plug change, I noticed a vibration in the steering wheel while at a stop and a loss of MPG (went from getting 24 mpg to 22.7).
It did not happen immediately after the timing belt change (or at least i dont think it did) so i thought the mpg loss might be due to the changing weather and the vibration coming from a motor mount that i knew was broken, but I got the motor mount fixed and it did not do anything. I think that the vibration has gotten worse, but it seems to be at its worst when the car is really cold. (this morning the temp. was 9 degrees and it vibrated harder than it ever has).
The vibration only happens when the car is in park or at a stop, and it goes away when i accelerate, even if I only accelerate a little bit. I have not noticed a loss in power, or any sluggishness in acceleration. I have tried to research this, and I read something about the drive belt being out of time, but I'm not savvy with cars so I just don't know.
What could be the cause, do I HAVE to get it fixed, and what do you think a reasonable cost to repair is?
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I am currently working on my accord and well have hit a bit of trouble nothing too bad. I was just wondering how do you retract the timing belt adjuster for the '98 honda accord.
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1999 Honda Accord EX, 224K miles, 4 cylinder. Timing belt broke yesterday and ruined some exhaust valves. Also needs new radiator. Should I spend quoted approx $3500 for fixed cylinder head and valves, 30K mile check (plugs, valve adj etc), new radiator, might also include piston rings, not sure? Completely trust the mechanic. Other recent work already done is one new front wheel bearing and axle, new bearing boots on both sides, oxygen sensor, new clutch a year ago. Interior/exterior are in good shape. How many more miles am I likely to get on this engine if I have the work done? Will I likely need ball joints replaced soon? Anything else I should be considering?
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I have a 1999 Honda Accord V6 with 101,000 miles - I am the second owner and the car was meticulously maintained and garage kept by the original owners. I need to have the timing belt replaced and am wondering if I should have the water pump and/or other parts replaced during this repair? Economic prudence is of the essence.
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I have a 97 Honda Accord with V Tec engine, 2.2L. I have an oil leak that is coming from BEHIND the timing belt cover. I removed the cover and the belts to expose several seals. The oil leak is quite extensive and leaves a good puddle after running the engine, however, it will not leak once I clean up the mess, put the car up on jack stands and disassemble the engine. I cannot tell which seal is leaking and am wondering how to tell which seal is leaking. Is there a way to apply pressure to the engine with air, possibly through the oil dipstick hole to possibly expose the leaking seal?
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My wife and I recently bought a 2005 Subaru Outback 2.5 XT with an automatic transmission. Last week, we had the timing belt changed by a mechanic I've gone to for the past four years and trust a great deal. He changed the timing belt, drive belts, water pump, pulleys, tensioner and a few hoses, and everything seemed to go off without a hitch. After picking up the car, though, we noticed that the idle seemed much rougher than it had in the past. We can't tell if it's also rough during driving, or when the car is in park or neutral, but there is definitely considerably more vibration when the car is stopped in drive and idling--you can feel it throughout the car. I haven't noticed it until the car has warmed up.
I asked my brother, who is a mechanic in another state, if he had any thoughts, and he said it could be that the belt is off a notch, a vacuum leak or an unplugged sensor. I brought the car back to the mechanic today to see if it he could fix it, and he said that the CEL would be on if it was a vacuum leak or unplugged sensor, and that the car has an automatic idle that the belt change would not have adjusted. He asked if the vibration was getting any better, since when the battery was unplugged it would take the computer awhile to relearn the correct idle, but we've driven it a few hundred miles and it hasn't gotten any better. I left the car with him to take a look at it, but he just called and said he couldn't find anything wrong.
I want to chalk this up to us imagining something, but we both have no doubt that there has been considerably more vibration at least when the car is idling since we picked it up after the timing belt change. Is there anything else that it could be or that I should ask my mechanic?
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I took my 1997 Honda Accord with 97,000 miles to the Honda dealer for a 90,000 mile service and changing of the timing belt. I also had them replace some gaskets, some other belts and the axles as they were not holding fluid. When I got the car back the second time I drove it the check engine light came on and the car will not shift gears properly. When I start the car cold, put it in drive and accelerate the engine revs for a few seconds before the gears will engage.
This continues whenever I stop and accelerate. It also happens whenever the car is ready to switch to a higher gear. The engine revs past 3000 rpm and then will shift a second or two later. The dealer says I need to change a rebuilt transmission. The Bluebook on the car is only about $3000. I'm having difficulty evaluating the best course of action. What is the reliability of a rebuilt transmission?
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2007 Santa Fe GLS 2.7 V6. T belt replaced by dealer at 62K. Noticed engine vibration when picked up vehicle. RPM is steady, engine runs smooth, no error codes, no strange noises. Mechanic who did the work confirmed vibration problem and recommended bringing it back - had no answer on the cause but mentioned lose motor mounts which I doubt - the car ran perfect until the dealer did the work.
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Serpentine belt on a 2006 Honda Odyssey fraying and then ripping into the timing belt causing that belt to break? I recently had this scenario given to me as the cause of my recently replaced timing belt breaking.
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I have a 2006 Honda Odyssey. I got the timing belt replaced two weeks ago.Last week the engine started making a quiet clicking noise upon acceleration. The clicking noise happens intermittently not continuously. Then last night the yellow engine light came on. Questions: What does the yellow engine light mean? Is the engine light related to the timing belt work that was done? Would the clicking noise be connected to the timing belt work?
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I was wondering if the timing belt on my 05 RX 330 needed to be changed due to age and not miles. The car only has 72k miles on it but it is 10 years old.
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So after saying "We don't work on that model" when I asked for a timing belt / water pump change (yup, they actually said that), I went in today to try and get a second key made since the guy I bought the Phaeton from only had 1. I do not have the little code. I was told that there was nothing they could do without the code. My only hope would be to contact EVE directly.
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I just changed the timing belt and everything runs great. I pushed the AC button and no light came on. I checked all the fuses and they are good I took the H and L caps of and tapped the pin and there was air blasting out. Don't know what it could be? All I did was loosen the compressor and remove the belt and put it back on.
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After timing belt change code P0016 with Check engine light trac off and VSC light on.
Put on the entire kit...timing belt,tensioner, idler, and water pump. When I took it apart to put the new cam crank sensor I inspected everything and all looked good.
Changed the sensor and reset code, a few hours later back on. Car seems to run fine. I didn't think the sensor was bad. Car was running great...just due for timing belt.
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2002 galant 4cly overheating! So my Galant has 120k miles and I just had the timing belt replaced and I thought I'd be good and have the water pump replaced as well. When I got it back I made a few short trips with it and it was running fine then I took a longer trip about 30 miles and I noticed it was overheating, so I took it back to the shop they thought it was air in the cooling system so they preformed a few flushes, replaced the thermostat even though it was new and then replaced the pump again and the radiator cap, the radiator it's self was replaced maybe 1-2k miles ago. I don't believe the head is leaking since I'm not losing coolant and the oil isn't milky.....I'm at a loss, could the thermostat be the problem? Do I need one from the dealer? Is there a history with replacement pumps bad?
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I have a 2005 Toyota Camry with 120K miles that was bought used with 110K. The previous owner did not have the vehicle long and did not know if or when the timing belt had been replaced. I have read several blogs that recommend replacing the timing belt at 60 or 90K. To err on the conservative side I decided just to do it at 120K. Now my problem. Before the timing belt change there was a slight knocking from one of the cylinders. After the belt change the knocking is more pronounced. Q. How concerned should I be that the knocking is more noticeable? Could this be a by-product of the new belt and as it loosens the knocking will subside somewhat? OR, am I looking at valve job or worse?
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We just had our timing belt changed today as well as the waterpump and fanbelts. It has a loud whining noise now and I don't know if it is even safe to drive back to the mechanic...
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1987 Acura Integra AT with 158k... Water pump broke after 75k miles (in 18yr period)....
I am wondering what else should I have it done:
- thermostat
- oxygen sensor (is there one?)
- vacuum tubes (I hear that these fail due to age)
- anything else?
Are these near where they will be working on? Any other tips?
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I have 2004 Chrysler Sebring base model 4 cylinder with 90,000 miles. Paid off long ago. The schedule says its time to change the timing belt but no symptoms. No other issues and have kept up the maintenance. The cost is around $1000. I need the car to last 2 more years until our new car is paid off. Should I do the repair or play the odds that it won't break down?
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