Honda - Accord :: Shuddering While At A Higher Speed On The Freeway
Jan 18, 2013
Approx. 8 mths ago, my Honda which I have owned since new, started this strange behavior of suddenly 'shuddering' while at a higher speed on the freeway. This shudder would take some time to get started, maybe 10-15 min. driving and I would feel the shudder first in my foot against the gas pedal, then it would be more pronounced seemingly on the left front wheel. If I took the foot off, it initially would be relieved, but if I continued to drive, it would eventually get worse to the point I needed to pull over. I took it into our trusted mechanic, and he couldn't reproduce the issue. He suggested and then did a wheel rotation/balance and the problem seemed to go away.Recently it has come back and my husband who is quite knowledgeable mechanically did some inspections, and for lack of anything else, he asked our mechanic to replace the left front drive shaft. Well, it didn't fix the problem. We are wondering what else could it be?
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My car recently start shuddering or sputtering when I brake at a sop light or stop sign. When its in park it runs fairly smoothly but when my foot is on the brake it acts like it will quit on me, it hasn't yet. When this happens its usually very wet outside. I notice a gas smell whenever this happens and I cant do anything about it. When I pull away my car has a hard time getting going and it bounces around. I cant go get it check with a computer because its so old ...
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Honda Accord 1994 EX
Problem: over past two weeks (around 200 miles) car's acceleration became less and less effective. Need to rev car to higher and higher rpms to accelerate and shift into higher gears. Now it's hard to get up a hill, in 2nd gear at 5000 rpm.
I don't have a compression tester.
-Car starts fine. No pings.
-Exhaust blows fine and no smoke.
-Checked for vacuum hose leaks, none at all.
-Spark plugs look fine, there's no oil in spark plug wells.
-No check engine lights. '
-Oil on oil stick normal color.
But ...
-Recently coolant ran low. But engine temperature never shot up.
-Recently (over 2 weeks) oil went from full to near empty. Oil light didn't go on.Lights on my dash work (abs, brake, etc.)
Given loss of coolant and oil, I though it would be blown gasket. But spark plugs and wells look clean, and there's nothing whitish in oil. Maybe coolant and oil loss are due to running car harder to accelerate.
-If cat was clogged, would exhaust blow well? If I drill hole in front of cat, will it run normal? (don't worry, I'll get it changed, or fix it.)
-If fuel pump the problem, wouldn't I hear it on start up?
-If battery and/or battery cable bad, wouldn't car have trouble starting and revving up?
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I have a 96 honda civic that I can't seem to figure out why its overheating. I've changed the water pump, thermostat, radiator cap, and cleaned the system a number of times. It only seems to overheat when I'm on the free way and up to speed. When I get to my destination I see that the water overflow is full of water like to the top of the filler, so the water is being ejected out of the system. It also seems to have a lot of pressure in the system.
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1996 Honda Civic LX... Alright, so I got my car aligned about two months ago and ever since then it has started scraping the bottom of my car whenever I go over any form of bump or reach the bottom of a steep hill at a speed higher than 2 mph. Well, about three days ago it started making this clicking sound when I put it into park or come to a complete stop and when I accelerate it makes a grinding sound. As a college student I am kind of tight on cash, so I was wanting to know what the possible issues could be so I will know a general price range when I go to a mechanic.
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At any speed my car likes to slow down a bit then go back up to speed... feels like little mini lurches. Why... dirty fuel injectors?
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'89 Honda Accord LX Sedan 5-Speed, 266k miles...
Bought this car recently and it worked fine when I got it (the most perfect 22-year old car I've ever seen). Between then and now I've driven it a little. It's my first stick shift car, so I've stalled it a few times, ground the gears a little, etc. learning to drive it. Anyway, it now won't shift into first gear. It shifts fine and drives fine in all the other gears, the only problem is with first. It also shifts fine into all gears when the car is off.
On a side note (in case it pertains to this situation), the car takes a little while to warm up. For 5-10 minutes after it is turned on, it idles really fast and makes a horrid scratching noise and then stalls if put into reverse (don't know about first, since it won't go into first). Once the idling slows down, though, this problem goes away.
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I test-drove a 1994 Honda Accord with 140K today. Looking for reliable car for relative, and this was one of the better options, on paper at least, in the price range.It drove like a used car, but I was concerned about one thing: A ping when accelerating from low speed. It didn't do it constantly, but only when going from a standstill or slowdown back up to speed. The seller said he'd been told it was an issue with the catalytic converter. I've been told that a higher octane fuel will sometimes quell a ping in an engine with no knock sensor.Is this something I should be worried about? Is the high-octane rumor true? The car was otherwise very nicely maintained.
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I have an '08 Accord Cpe with a V6 and 5-speed auto. transmission. When driving on a level stretch of road trying to hold the speed at 40mph the engine speed will bounce up and down between 1400 and 1700 RPM. The engine is warm. The transmission feels like it is trying to up-shift and make the car go faster thus nearly impossible to hold the speed at 40mph. If I put the transmission in 3rd gear so it can't shift up there isn't this problem. I have also noticed a lugging or hesitating when trying to accelerate when the engine is cold. I wonder if these are related issues?
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My Honda has a pop or clunk when braking at low speeds( below 5mph) just before coming to a stop. It will pop as I start forward again (below 5mph). It only occurs when the outside temperature is above 90-95 degrees and after driving for 10-15 minutes. Dealership has looked at it twice and has not found any issue. I've changed brake pads and rotors as well as lubricated everything - didn't work. Brake performance, handling, etc isn't affected. It's highly annoying and makes me worry that something will eventually fail.
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I have a 93 Honda accord EX and most times when i drive it, the car will become unresponsive to the gas and slow down and then speed back up. I went to a shop can Budget transmissions and they told me that the problem was it need a new fuel pump and when I asked them if that was for sure the problem they said yes. He told me to get fuel additive to clean out the engine cause it may still be a little laggy.
I drove the car to autozone and then home and it drove perfectly. A few hours later it did the unresponsive thing again and when i told the mechanic he said i had to put about 70 miles on it. I HAVE DRIVEN OVER 100 MILES NOW and it still lags like I haven't even gotten the fuel pump replaced. I haven't called the mechanic yet and i wanted to know if i should ask for a refund or what to do. My brother also said it may be the oxygen sensor haven gone bad so should I ask the mechanic to replace it for free?
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I have a 1987 Honda Accord,that has a carburetor. initially I thought that it was my motor mounts or the idle speed needed adjusting. However since they have been replaced I and the idle speed tuned the problem persists. I don't know what else could be wrong. I have changed all belts, mounts, and still whenever I use anything electrical (I.e. fans, rear defrost, power windows,etc.) And the care is traveling below 10 mph the shaking just won't stop.that is till I put one foot on break and the other on gas. Keeping the idle speed above 1000 revolutions per minute.
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My 1996 Honda Accord V6 has a stuttering problem. It only happens (or is only noticeable) when driving at a constant speed. It is most noticeable when driving in the 45 - 55 mph range. It feels like the engine has millisecond breaks in power. And this does not happen all the time. Some days, it drives just fine with no problems. It idles fine. The problem is not noticeable, if there at all, during acceleration.
One other piece of information that might - or might not - be relevant is that the tachometer seems to be out of its mind. It bounces all over the place up and down. This also does not happen all the time, and it seems to me, though I'm not 100% certain, that the stuttering problem only happens when the tach is crazy..I have had no luck getting a mechanic to diagnose the problem. They claim the tach problem is totally unrelated.
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The check engine light came on in my 1997 Honda Accord and the OEM diagnostic says it's PO501 which is a performance problem in CVT speed sensor circuit. My mechanic is on vacation. Is it safe to drive short distances until I can have it fixed?
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I own a 1999 Honda Accord w/160K miles. This past summer my car would occasionally stall while driving at slow speeds (when the car, an automatic transmission, was in low gear). Usually I'd be able to start it right back up with no problems. In some cases I'd have to hold the ignition switch for about three seconds. As the weather cooled in the autumn (I live in New England) the problem disappeared. However, in the last couple of weeks the problem has started up again only now I have trouble restarting the car. I have to wait a couple of minutes before it'll start up again. It has the feel of a flooded engine. The car also idles rather low...at around 800 rpm. I don't think it's a battery or alternator because all of the electric apps.(power locks, windows, radio, etc.) work after the car stalls. I'm bringing my car in for regular maintenance but would like to know what to tell my mechanic to look for.
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"my Honda accord 98, is stick shift and recently it has been rattleting a bit when I switch to speed one. if I don't push the clutch it shakes and wants to almost turn off."
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I have a 2005 honda accord. When I was driving today it started to rain, so I turned on my wipers, at first they were ok, but later I noticed the wipers speed went down, and then the check engine light came on, I was still able to use the wipers and everything looked fine. I just had someone changed my oil on Tuesday. I got a new car and I only drove less than one hour per week using this old car. Is it possible the battery or alternator is bad? I will read the code tomorrow.
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Recently installed a curt trailer light. I modified the V plug in harness to work with the C.
I noticed the fan was running louder then usual. I took the right rear panel off were the HV exhaust vent it and there is no ducting from the factory.
The battery duct just goes to the back of the seat and vents out in that right corner right behind the 12V.
It makes its way up and over the right rear tire tub then what ever comes out of the rear exhaust, just vents out with momentum from down below. No duct guiding it from what I can see?
I went back and zip tied a wire that was in the path to sides were other factory wiring runs.
This seemed to fix the issue after making everything neat?
Not sure what caused it but it seems to be from wiring that was in the way? When I run the HV fan with my SG and remove the shock tower assess cover on the passenger side. I can feel hot air coming out. This might be an easy way to get more exhaust venting for anyone that wishes to do that.
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I have a 2004 Jetta 1.8t. 160k miles. Bought it recently. It's been overheating on me. Mainly on the freeway while having the RPMs higher than the small streets. I don't see any leaks. I'm not losing any coolant. But I do smell burning coolant. I don't see anything smoking though. I changed out the coolant temp sensor. I have a thermostat but haven't gotten to it yet. Just wanted other opinions before moving on. There is some sort of little motor on the radiator with some coolant hose connected to it. When turning off the car, it stays on and buzzes for a good 10-15 minutes before stopping. I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it. I don't even know what that thing is or called.
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is locking in 4m but is too high, suppose to be ~2200rpm.When I checked with vagcom the speed shown on computer show a speed with 20km/h higher than the real speed (shown at speedometer)
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I replaced the timing belt an waterpump at 262,000 miles and ever since the engine makes a loud low pitch noise that varies in pitch depending on the engine speed. I replaced the alternator and it didn't work. I don't know if the power steering pump, a/c compressor or something else is making this awful sound.
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