I have a 2007 Honda Accord EX (4-cylinder) manual. When upshifting, after pressing the clutch and my foot is OFF the gas, the engine stays at 2000 rpm for a few seconds before falling back; often it even INCREASES speed with my foot OFF the gas. This happens only when upshifting/accelerating and even when the car is warmed up. Is it a bad sensor, computer or throttle control?
View 1 RepliesWe have a 2004 Honda Accord V6 with 178,000 miles and the car is giving us some issues. We can drive the car for 10-15 minutes with no issues. Then when we push on the gas pedal, the car will not go any farther and the engine just revs. If we turn the car off and restart it, the car will continue to drive. There are no check engine lights on the car. Could these be a transmission issue?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2002 Honda Accord SE and I observe that the transmission slips, meaning the car revs but does not power the wheels. I have got this checked by a mechanic and he recommended a transmission replacement or live with it until it completely fails and then go for a transmission rebuild/replacement. The car has 115k miles on it and I did not do a transmission flush as per recommendation from the mechanic. He said that if I flush the transmission fluid, there is a high chance that the transmission will fail and will need an immediate replacement. I do not have any issues with the way the car drives now, but I am worried if something happens to the transmission while I am driving.
View 5 RepliesReplaced clutch master cylinder last week. Now when I accelerate it revs the RPM's and finally catches after about 5-10 seconds. Is this related to the previous repair? They are saying needing new clutch. What to do?
View 3 RepliesI recently purchased 4 brand new michelin tires. They are approximately 3 months old now. Beginning a couple weeks ago, my car started shaking profusely at 60mph when accelerating. When I let off the gas, it would stop. I went and got a tire balance thinking that was the problem... but it's still happening, and now it starts at about 55mph. I have no clicking sounds when turning the wheel, and my car runs great besides this! What this could be?
View 2 RepliesI drive a 2003 Honda Accord and it shakes violently whenever I'm accelerating between 55 and 65 mph. If you put a shaker on the passenger seat, you'd have a martini. Approaching 55, it's fine, and then it shakes as I go up to 65 and then smooths out when I pass 65. If I am cruising, but not accelerating in between 55 and 65, it stops shaking, but once I hit the gas, it shakes.
The same phenomenon occurs in both third and fourth gears, so it doesn't appear to be related to what part of the power band the car is in. This model Accord had a recall on the engine mounts, which I had replaced at no small cost already.
I have a 2006 Honda Accord that just today started acting weird. I was driving 70mph on the highway and noticed the car was "tugging" a bit. I looked down and the RPMs kept revving up to 5-6k and accelerating while the cruise control was set at 70.
View 7 RepliesMy 93 previa recently went in for brakes, shocks, and tune up. 320,000 miles original owner. Afterwards it ran rough. The o2 sensor needed replacing. When I got it back it ran rough. Mechanic assured me it just needed a little time. It has the following issues:Left front would shudder like an out of balance tire between 50-70. Replaced tire. Now it hesitates and stutters at 70. Feels like its choking out. Won't climb hills without shifting a lot. No pick up. Gets 12 miles to the gallon instead of 20. First three minutes of driving are okay, after that it rides terrible. I have him looking at it now. He swears it is just because it's old.
View 19 RepliesI have a 98 Honda Accord EX Coupe V6 with 175,000 miles. In the last 500 miles, I recently starting hearing a gurgling noise when I accelerate. It is rather faint and it goes away when I either let off the gas or my speed is constant. Also, I haven't noticed any appreciable loss of power or a decrease in gas mileage, but I am curious as to what the noise could be and if I need to have it serviced.
View 11 RepliesMy wife's 2006 Honda Accord makes a strange noise when accelerating. The best I can describe it is that it sounds like Woooo. It does not make this sound when driven at a constant speed. The car is in great shape and does not appear to have any mechanical or electrical problems.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2009 honda accord, v6, auto, 46k. It has recently started to chug, most of the time, not always. I feel it in the gas pedal. Kind of a jerking, hesitation chug while accelerating. It only chugs between 20-40 mph, disappears after that. Someone suggested a spark plug problem, but I can't imagine it's that since it disappears after 40mph. Could it be a transmission problem?
View 9 RepliesI have a 2012 Honda Accord EX with a manual trans. It's a fly-by-wire system. When accelerating and shifting, the tac momentarily jumps various hundreds of RPMs when the clutch is in. That used to mean you weren't coming off the gas when the clutch was in. I've been driving manual trans cars for 45 years. I know how to shift. But, it was a new car, so maybe... I paid close attention and was not screwing up the shifts. Apparently the computer doesn't realize the clutch is in and the gas pedal has been released. Is this normal for these cars? Is it a problem? (other than wasting a half thimble full of gas and over-reving the engine?)
View 4 RepliesI bought a 2002 accord with 105800 miles 3 weeks ago. I got the timing belt and water pump replaced within a week of that. I have noticed that the car makes a high pitch noise upon accelerating after replacing the belt. It does not happen always, but sometimes. I have noticed it on 3 days in last 2 weeks. A preliminary web search tells me that it could be a tight timing belt.
View 3 RepliesOk, did an intake manifold cleaning on my 99 Accord the other day, and now I have problems...
Long story short, some time ago my car started to have a very rough idle. Took me awhile to find the problem. Turned out the air hose, between the filter and throttle body, had developed a big hole on the underside. So I replaced it and while I was at it used some throttle body cleaner, spraying into the intake manifold chamber. Lot of junk blew out the tailpipe. The car ran much better, but the idle could still be a little rough. I ran it that way for awhile, and finally the other day decided there was probably still some junk in there and it was time to really clean it out. So I took ff the throttle body and intake manifold housing. There was a lot of junk in there! The small intake on the passenger side was completely clogged shut. (I understand this isn't surprising on these cars.) I used a bunch of rags and 2 cans of Valvoline throttle body cleaner and a lot of elbow grease and cleaned it out. I was thinking to myself that whatever I didn't get with the rags flushed through OK, but I didn't want to take the whole intake manifold out.
So I put it all back together. (I took a video before I started, so I'm pretty sure it's all back together right.) But now I have problems. The car starts. It idles fine mostly, but can be a bit rough. But the trouble starts when I put the pedal down. If I do it in Park, well, if I push it quick the engine just dies. If I push it slow, the engine revs then quits, revs and quits, over and over. Similar if it's in gear. If I push it hard, the engine stalls. If I push it gentle, it revs up, but chugs along a bit.
I've run some seafoam through it, thinking it was clogged up with all that junk, and sure enough, lots of smoke comes out, but nothing is improving so far. What have I done wrong?
I haven't come on this site since I sold my Corrado a while back, but I am having issues with the wife's City Golf. It is a manual transmission and when switching gears and accelerating, the engine revs all over the map on the tach and is only partially engaged in gear, and then after bouncing around it settles down drives normal. But if you stomp on the gas again, the engine accelerates all over place again and it doesn't translate to power on the road. Is this a transmission problem or a fuel problem?
View 6 RepliesMy subaru forester, 2002, with low mileage (40K) had routine maintenance 2 mos ago. Now sounds like it revs when in idle, and today began hesitating when I accelerate (a few seconds or so). I plan to take it in but wonder if there's insight before I go in cold (I know nothing about cars). Read on forums could be 02 sensor.
View 1 RepliesRecently bought a 2015 Golf Tsi. i have done around 4000 miles. there has been a ticking and a "coin rubbing together" sound when accelerating until about 2200 revs. dealer could not find the solution... the car has been very jolty, and at very low idle speeds, very rough and stuttery. The video shows the ticking. Could it be an exhaust/fuel injector problem? [URL] .....
View 3 RepliesLately I have been driving in the Sport Mode more often. I have noticed that when accelerating from a stop it revs to just below the redline before shifitng, is this normal?
I also notice that when slowing down or coming to a stop, it has a "hurky jurky" feel. As if it was downshifiting way to early. is this normal?
2001 F150 5.4 v8 ... In the past few months my truck has been a bit strange, but in the past few weeks it's gotten to the point I'm nervous to drive it. Usually when shifting around 30-35, the engine revs up and stops accelerating and I have to take my foot off the pedal to make it return to normal. It doesn't do this after I do that, but the past time I tried to drive I couldn't get above 35 and the rpm was in the upper 2000s going at a constant 35. When I stop for any reason such as making a turn, when it shifts it lurches forward and I hear a loud clunk.
Naturally, I've checked all the fluids and fuses and they're all fine. The mechanic I regularly visit insists that nothing is wrong with it.
My mom wants to sell her 2002 Ford Explorer w/ 4.0 as enough kids have moved out that the vehicle is no longer needed. It has 162 000 mostly trouble free miles on it. However, for me to sell it for her, I need to get it running well first. The background:
Just recently it fried the alternator. No big deal, got a reman for my dad and he put it in. But now it has this sort of "shudder" at idle and low rpm, and also when accelerating slowly low in the revs. I don't know if it was there before or not because only my siblings drove it, and their not exactly observant. I am positive it is a misfire.
So far I have done the obvious. I have pulled all the plugs, they are nice and tan, re-gapped them (although they were only .002 out of spec at the most). I noticed that one plug wire was broken on the inside, where it connects to the plug. Thinking I solved the problem, I bought a new set of wires and put them on. No such luck however, as the problem continues unchanged. On the new wires, I have verified tons of spark making it through. In an effort to isolate the bad cylinder, thinking maybe it was actually a plug, I started pulling wires off the coil with it running. I could barely notice a change in the engine with any of them, and a couple seemed to have no change at all (again, I may just not have been able to detect it because I could barely make out the other changes).
Next, thinking maybe it was fuel related, I put a stethoscope on some of the injectors and they sounded the same, but I can not get at the back passenger and 2 back driver ones. How else can I test these?
I even went so far as to unplug IAC, engine died immediately so its not that. I also took off the EGR valve and cleaned it, and pushed the plunger up and down lots and it moves freely. I tried pulling off the vaccuum line from the EGR with the engine running and there was no change, but that doesn't really mean anything does it?
So I put it all back together and thats how it sits for the night. On a related note, the CEL is on, but it is on more often than not on that thing, and my dad has taken it to a dealer three times to have codes read and nothing ever shows up. The mechanics keep saying that it has something to do with the fuel cap and pressure or something.
I just bought a used 93 accord. The engine is in good shape and runs smoothly most of the time, but I have two issues.
First, when I start the engine cold, there is a very loud belt squealing for about 3 or 4 seconds. Is this a common problem and, if I isolate the belt at fault, what should I do about it?
Second, the engine revs (both audibly and on the tach) when I press on the brakes. I've been told by a friend it might be a vacuum leak?