Honda - Accord :: Radio Dead - Dome Light Comes On When Make A Left Turn
Apr 9, 2011
I have a 2004 Accord. The radio died a slow death (going on and off at will.) It's finally dead, now. The other strange thing, is the the dome light comes on when I make a left turn. The mechanic I took it too couldn't figure it out, and told me to take it to the dealer.
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We found out that both our tail lights and our left turn signal light were out. The guy at the Honda place said that he thought that the person who put the hitch on our brand new car screwed something up. He said that 3 bulbs were burned out as well as 2 fuses. He replaced the bulbs and fuses and everything has been working. We pulled our light weight trailer about 4 times before the car was inspected. The car passed inspection. Then this problem showed up about a month later after we had pulled the trailer once or twice more. I'm afraid if I take it back to the guy who put the hitch on, he will just say that he did it right. Why didn't the fuses protect the bulbs from burning out? Could the problem be that water got into the hitch wiring. We wrapped the end of the wires in plastic but noticed water got into the area anyway. Why didn't the problem show up right away? Could the problem show up again even if we don't pull the trailer. What should I do next.
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My 2002 Honda Odyssey makes a squealing noise when I make a hard left turn. Could it be related to power steering? Is it an urgent problem? I will take a trip next week (~650 miles each way), and need to know if I should address this first.
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My car makes a noise like metal scraping metal when I turn left. The sound comes and goes, and is loudest when I make a left turn from a standstill. I have had my car looked at twice in the past 3 months. The first place told me a need a new rack and pinion, and the second said my tires being low was the only issue. My car will go weeks sometimes without making the noise, and then suddenly start again.
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Just got a diagnostic from the nice people at Prius Battery Repair. Check engine light was on and intermittent red triangle when I make a left turn. Code PO505 came up- Idle control System. I have 162,000 miles and just put in a reconditioned battery that checks out fine.
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I have a 2013 Honda Accord that 3 times over the last 30 days the power steering has quit working while making a left or right turn from a stop. Once I muscle the car out of the intersection, I can turn it off and then restart the engine which seems to reset the steering. All 3 times I have taken it back to the Honda service center of the dealer where I purchased it, and all 3 times they can find absolutely nothing wrong with it.
Honda's policy is that they won't fix/replace anything unless they have a direct problem to fix. This is getting frustrating because I consider it a safety issue. Now I don't know what to do. They refuse to do anything until they can see the car with the issue. If it ever happens at a time when I can leave it running and have them send a tow truck to pick it up, I will. But that could take months, years or never.
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I have a 2003 Ford F-450 with the 7.3 Powerstroke. The problem I am having is the dome light stays on, the map lights will not turn on, I have no door ding with the key in the ignition, and the radio wont turn on. If I press the clock button on the radio the clock comes on but the radio will not come on when I press the power button. What it may be? I already hosed the door latches with lubricant and that changed nothing. I checked all the fuses they are good.
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I've got a 2000 Accord. I recently started hearing and feeling a hard knocking/clunking noise at the front-center of the car during the correct after a left turn. My trustworthy mechanic told me the subframe is rusted out on the right side and that it isn't safe to drive until the subframe is replaced (he also said he's seen several of these this last year). He suggested that the cause is that the hose leading away or down from the air conditioner is too short, and leaks directly onto the subframe. There is no recall on this problem currently. I've done some Internet research and there is some buzz about this, but not as much as I was hoping for.
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The radio in my 2003 Honda Accord is blank and the mileage part of my warranty is out. The radio works, but the backlight on the lcd screen is out, what can I do to fix it? I don't know what time it is, what station is on.
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Honda Accord 2005 ... Just bought a new used car. All seems ok, but I have two problems.
(1) when not moving, i have slop in the steering and I can hear metal on metal contact when I turn the steering wheel. I pulled the tire and with basically no force I can move the rotor back and forth by hand. what it is and how to fix it?
(2) when braking, it appears that the front left pad sticks. Pads are not excessively worn down. Can't figure out how to get to the caliper pins ( thought they might be sticking).
Could the two be related?
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Front discs and pads replaced about 10k ago and still under warranty - work done by my mechanic whom I have been patronizing for the last 8 years. When the brakes are applied at 40 MPH plus, get a low pitched "HMMMMMMMM" type of sound that goes away as the car decelerates through 40. It is sort of annoying but the brakes work perfectly fine. A mechanic that works for the shop rode with me and listened, and didn't offer much of an explanation or offer to remove the wheels and inspect the brakes. In other words, he cited this as normal. Would it be advisable to get a 2nd opinion? I've never had this issue with brakes on other vehicles I've owned, especially with new brakes.
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1989 Honda Accord DX .. I have 2 problems.
Problem 1: the car will not idle with the ac on, goes dead.
Problem 2: the tank has a capacity of 15.9 gal. But after 10 gal. have been used, I have to put gas in for the car to run.
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I have a 2010 Honda Civic with about 32K miles on it. Last fall, at around 23K miles, I needed new brake pads and rotors (because I waited too long on the pads). Got those replaced. A few weeks later (I think), it started making a kind of squealing noise when I make left turns. I mentioned it to my mechanic when I took it in for an oil change shortly thereafter, and he said it was probably the belt, but I could wait a bit on replacing it if I wanted to (as he knows I'm always broke).
Three weeks ago, I took the car in for another oil change and to have him change the belt. He put in a new belt, but alas, after driving the car about a mile the noise returned. I called my mechanic, and he said it might be my tensioner, but that such a new tensioner shouldn't need replacing already and that it would still be under warranty. I needed to take it to the dealer anyway because my window mechanism was broken, so while I was there, I had him check out the tensioner. He also said the tensioner was fine, and said that since the belt wasn't a HONDA belt (naturally), that might be making the noise. Last week, I took the car back to the mechanic, who ordered and installed a Honda factory belt free of charge.
Naturally, a mile later, the noise returned. I resisted every urge to drive into oncoming traffic. I used my phone to record the sound so that I could e-mail it to the dealer and my mechanic, give it a listen: [URL] ....
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My Viper 2 way alarm, instead of the brain being wired to each of the 4 doors individually. The installer ran 1 wire to the dome light. Seems to work fine as far as arming/disarming/locking/unlocking, but since the dome light stays on for 10 seconds or whatever after the door is shut, when i arm it.
The 2 way remote says "door open" because the light is still on so it thinks a door is open. this eventually times out and all the sensors arm, but there's a long delay. it arms fine and no alerts pop up if i lock the doors first from the outside keypad on the door, making the lights go off, then hit arm on the viper, and everything is good to go.
Can I change it so no matter what, as SOON as i shut the door, the light goes off? I want there to be NO delay, if possible. If not, I may need to just have the installer run a wire to each door and take the single run to the dome light off, as it is sorta annoying to me.
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i have a 2000 ex,6.8 4x4.every now and then the dome light stays on.theres also a problem where theres a buzzing sound coming under dash while driving and makes the dome light flicker.these are seprate problems.lol.when the buzzing sound is present ,it stops when i open the door,running or not.but starts up again when i close it,even happens occasionaly when ignition is off and no key in ignition.electrical problems are my worst night mare!!!!!!!! My battery is dead in the morning when this is happening .oh yea,and the o.d.light flashes occasionaly as well.im totally lost.
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Recently while I was stupidly upgrading one of my dome lights while it was on (door open and yes stupid) I shorted it and blew the fuse. Of course jump in the drivers seat and go buy another fuse. To my amazement the car was dead. No power up starting, no door locks no fob operation or anything. The flashers and brake lights and horn worked fine and that was it.
What a great single point immobilizer!
Problem is you will lose clock, settings like reverse beep off, mpg, etc. I was dead in the water until I remembered in the engine fuse box there is a spare 15a fuse (and the fuse puller). The dome light fuse is there as well. Replaced the dome light fuse and all is well. Drove off like I had saved the world. Very strange. Looking at the wiring the junction block that the dome light fuse feeds also feeds LOTS of other areas of the car including the ECU.
Want to keep your kids from driving the car. Forget taking the keys. Pull the dome light fuse.
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I have a 2000 Excursion lifted 6 inches with 35" tires on 20" Fuel wheels and i notice when I make a left or right hand turn between 10-20 mph i get a single pop or clunk from the front end.
Also one more really annoying thing while i am turning there is creaking, sounds like body flex? maybe body mounts? Any issues with ball joints?
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So I've been driving my 3GS 350 and every time i make a right turn the left wheel makes this metal shaking sound? or scraping sound? I've checked it out seems like nothings in the way but I don't know how to tell if i have a bad wheel bearing..
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My 2003 Honda Accord radio will turn on while the car keys are not in the car. It's been happening for months now. If I leave the radio powered on while the car is off it will drain the battery by the time I try to start it again in the morning. If I turn the radio off before the car keys are out I can still see the radio receiving power (the clock on the display lights up).
I had a different issue about a year ago where if the radio was on it would make really loud popping noise then go silent. I could usually get it back by turning it of an on several times. I it to a car audio shop who soldered the connections in the radio and I haven't had the problem since. After this I also had an iPod/iPhone adapter installed. It seems as though the issue with the radio staying on may have started somewhere around that time.
What could be causing this? The guy at the car audio shop says that he thinks the radio is just bad and that Honda had a huge problem with radios in Accords from that year. However I don't want to spend money to put a new radio in only to have the same issue after.
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I bought my 1994 Accord LX new and am happy with it and the ~240K miles it has. Recently a very odd problem has emerged that is annoying...
Problem: The power to the radio cuts off now and then but only for a second. This of course always happens when I'm intensely listening to something like Car Talk. I first noticed it about 3 months ago while driving on the highway... whenever I tapped my brake peddle the radio would cut out. NOW the problem happens whenever it wants to...sometimes I go days without any problem, other times I can get a string of 5-10 failures right in a row and then it's "ok".
Here's the REALLY WEIRD thing... about 1:10 times when this happens BOTH the tachometer AND the speedometer cut out too! They drop to ZERO and then when the radio comes back on they pop back up to their proper readings... note nothing happens to the fuel or engine oil pressure gauges. The dashboard failures are what now have me worried.
What Have I done to address it? Nothing yet, not sure what to do... I cannot intentionally recreate the problem. Last time I took it to the mechanic for something else they looked at this but they couldn't recreate it. I'm afraid if I just ask someone to fix this it'll either cause a lot of hours to be racked up with no result or a lot of guesswork replacements.
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Honda accord( 2005), Engine lights off and on, Radio goes off a few seconds and then reboots by itself , ABS lights off and on, car still runs, power seems to be down slightly when engine lights comes on , stalled twice, but restarted right away. Relay switch replaced, PCM replaced( Diagnosis suggested) , problem continues.What should I check next ?
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