Honda - Accord :: Left Rear Window Struggles To Go Up?
Oct 28, 2012
Left rear window goes down normally but struggles to go up without support. Don't detect any binding and it is going straight. Would it likely be the motor or regulator.
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My 1992 Accord driver side window goes down fine. But when you go up, it stops about ever 3 or 4 inches. You hit the button up and it wont do anything. Then you push up on it with your hands and it makes a *CLICK* noise. Then you hit the button up again, and it goes up another 3 or 4 inches. And you just repeat that until it goes up. Any clue what the problem is. I tried to get into it so i could try to investigate, but i had some probs gettin to it. I had the door panel off, disconnected the door handle mechanism and all that. Can i get any deeper than that? is there another sheet metal panel that can be removed?
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I have 2007 Honda accord. All three passenger side windows will not work. The driver side window do work however. The lock out button is not activated. When I press the switches to the passenger windows, it makes a click sound but windows will not open. This just started happening all at the same time without any warning.
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It's a 2004 Honda LX... We bought a car that had previously been damaged to the right rear. They had fixed it up and all. When I got it, the car was already pulling left so I eventually took it to get an alignment.
After the alignment the technician told me that it still might pull because of how the tires were worn - and it still pulled left.
This past Saturday I decided to get a lot done: 4 new tires, an alignment, break pads changed, and the rotors were resurfaced.
I tested the alignment on the freeway and local flat roads and it still pulls left.
I'm thinking this problem still has to do with the previous damage, which parts could be causing it so I can pitch it to the shop I'll be taking it to?
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My car makes a noise like metal scraping metal when I turn left. The sound comes and goes, and is loudest when I make a left turn from a standstill. I have had my car looked at twice in the past 3 months. The first place told me a need a new rack and pinion, and the second said my tires being low was the only issue. My car will go weeks sometimes without making the noise, and then suddenly start again.
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We found out that both our tail lights and our left turn signal light were out. The guy at the Honda place said that he thought that the person who put the hitch on our brand new car screwed something up. He said that 3 bulbs were burned out as well as 2 fuses. He replaced the bulbs and fuses and everything has been working. We pulled our light weight trailer about 4 times before the car was inspected. The car passed inspection. Then this problem showed up about a month later after we had pulled the trailer once or twice more. I'm afraid if I take it back to the guy who put the hitch on, he will just say that he did it right. Why didn't the fuses protect the bulbs from burning out? Could the problem be that water got into the hitch wiring. We wrapped the end of the wires in plastic but noticed water got into the area anyway. Why didn't the problem show up right away? Could the problem show up again even if we don't pull the trailer. What should I do next.
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98 Accord AC died and left burnt chemical smell in it's wake...
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I have a 2004 Accord. The radio died a slow death (going on and off at will.) It's finally dead, now. The other strange thing, is the the dome light comes on when I make a left turn. The mechanic I took it too couldn't figure it out, and told me to take it to the dealer.
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The left rear window in my 2004 has either come off track or the retainer/clip holding the window in the truck has broken. My problem isnt fixing it, it is getting the door panel off.
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I have a 2013 Honda Accord that 3 times over the last 30 days the power steering has quit working while making a left or right turn from a stop. Once I muscle the car out of the intersection, I can turn it off and then restart the engine which seems to reset the steering. All 3 times I have taken it back to the Honda service center of the dealer where I purchased it, and all 3 times they can find absolutely nothing wrong with it.
Honda's policy is that they won't fix/replace anything unless they have a direct problem to fix. This is getting frustrating because I consider it a safety issue. Now I don't know what to do. They refuse to do anything until they can see the car with the issue. If it ever happens at a time when I can leave it running and have them send a tow truck to pick it up, I will. But that could take months, years or never.
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My left rear window motor has not worked for several years. Suddenly several weeks ago the window just dropped. I knew the regulator had failed so I replaced the regulator and the window still was not working up or down. I ran 12 volts to the new motor and it works . I removed the master switch and disassembled and cleaned up still nothing. Ordered new master switch still nothing. All other windows work. Checked power coming out of the switch and it is there. Tried testing current at the motor plug and only get power on one leg. The confusing thing is that the wires that have power with the switch on up and down are not the same color at the rear door making me think the wires go elsewhere before going to the back door.
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I've got a 2000 Accord. I recently started hearing and feeling a hard knocking/clunking noise at the front-center of the car during the correct after a left turn. My trustworthy mechanic told me the subframe is rusted out on the right side and that it isn't safe to drive until the subframe is replaced (he also said he's seen several of these this last year). He suggested that the cause is that the hose leading away or down from the air conditioner is too short, and leaks directly onto the subframe. There is no recall on this problem currently. I've done some Internet research and there is some buzz about this, but not as much as I was hoping for.
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My vehicle does not lock the rear window glass on the left gate. All other locks work fine. The rear lift gate glass just slams and nothing.
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My wife's 2006 Camry left rear power window motor is bad.
I already checked the plug and there is voltage when I use the switch.
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My left rear window is stuck in the down position. I thought the motor was burnt out because it was very hot, so I got a new one and replaced it and the symptom was the same. So I plugged the old "bad" motor into the harness and when I turn the key on it starts spinning, which would explain why it was so hot when I took it out. I'm guessing I've got a bad relay or something but where do I look now?
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My 05 phaeton has a lot of wind noise coming from it especially over 60 miles per hour. The window is fully up the door is closed and even in the car wash no water gets in. The seal seems tight.
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Just picked up my 2012 2dr. GTI. My first wash and I noticed the left rear stationary window leaking from the inside. ( not impressed ). It is going back to be fixed under warranty but wonder if the seal and window are one or two piece and what is involved in this repair? Hopefully the person doing it has done it before and not using a tube of silicone to repair it. What to expect for a proper repair.
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So I've been experiencing some shaking in my automatic 2001 Honda Accord EX Coupe 3.0L V6. The shaking starts at about 40mph and can last up to about 55-60 mph when it starts to fade away or become unnoticeable. The shaking is a lot more noticeable when your on an incline and accelerating. The shaking feels as though it rocks side-to-side but my steering wheel doesn't shake or pull. I've gotten my car tires/wheels balanced, replaced the wheels/rims, go new tires, had everything balanced again, and got an alignment done.
Since I used to think that the shaking was more prevalent in the back end of the car, I replaced the sway bar link stabilizers as directed by a friend. Needless to say, none of those things stopped the shaking. My first set of wheels/rims had one bent rim, so it shook because of that and couldn't really distinguish that there was something else beyond the bent wheel that could cause the shaking. So that's why I had to replace those wheels and tires. My new wheels required hub rings so discount tire put those on when installing them.
I've had my car lowered using lowering springs, which dropped the car about 1.8-2 inches. I had that done over a year ago and really don't think that's what would have caused the shaking. I say that because I've had those springs for a pretty long time and I wasn't experiencing any shaking after installing them. I know that my car doesn't have a stock camber kit that allows for lowering the car. But I'm not worried about the camber even though it does wear out the inside of the tire faster than the outside. I've had my exhaust done as well.
It goes from the catalytic converter to the back (cat-back) with a 2.5 inch piping. There's no leaks or anything and it's not loose either. And those are pretty much the only things I've done to upgrade my car. Of course I get regular oil changes and I recently did a transmission flush (drain and fill). I've been reading up on what could cause the shaking, through online threads, and all I can see that might be the cause is the CV axles? They've had the same issues that I'm having, replaced the axles, and that fixed their shaking.
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My 2009 Honda CRV struggles to start on very cold days. I need to hold the key and turn it longer than I would on most days. Is this something I should be concerned about or is it normal.
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2010 Explorer XLT. The left rear power window lowers, but does not raise back up with the driver's master control switch (the 4 switch control on the driver's door). It does, however, lower and raise fine with the single switch on it's own rear door. Thinking it was a bad master switch module on the driver's door, I replaced it and the same thing still happens - works fine with it's own single switch but will only lower and not raise with the driver's door switch. All the other windows work fine. This has me totally stumped.
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Car: 2014 Prius, basic model
Symptom: Only rear left electric window and electric lock are not working. They are not responding to driver side control or remote key control. Electronics on other 3 doors function normally.
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