Honda - Accord :: Heater Will Start Out Hot But About Half-hour Significantly Cools Down
Jan 26, 2014
I've had this checked out twice by the dealer and once by another mechanic and they say there's nothing wrong ....
First symptom: the heater will start out hot but about a half-hour into my trip into work it significantly cools down. I'm not sure if it's starting out too hot and cooling down appropriately but I think not ... it gets downright cool at 70 degrees.
Second symptom: I sometimes smell coolant in the passenger compartment, usually while I'm operating the heater. However, in these last bitter cold days I've smelled it when I get into my cold car in the garage in the morning.
Third symptom: I have a film on the inside of my windshield on the lower one-sixth or so ... it gets very cloudy, particularly when I circulate air to the windshield or turn on the AC to defog. I've asked three times to have the heater core checked and they all say it's fine.
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After a trip of about an hour to the Fryeburg Fair yesterday I noticed my temperature gauge needle was going way up. I was able to park my car and went to the fair for about 4-5 hours. Before we left I checked the coolant level as the car had cooled off enough to take the cap off. The coolant right to the top and was green. I checked my oil level and that was fine. On the way home my son suggested that I turn the heat on. I did so and the temp gauge went down to normal and stayed that way all the way back home to Lewiston, Maine. I'm thinking it might be the thermostat but thought I would for any other possible reasons my car is doing this. The car has about 216,000 miles and I did have the thermostat replaced a couple of years ago.....???
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My 95 Honda accord with 2.2 v tech suddenly started to SOMETIMES for periods of minuets to many hours, or days, start perfectly and die in 1/2 second. Later it will work fine for a while.
Car ran perfectly until one day it would not start.Turn key on, here fuel pump prime, CEL goes out after a second, then I turn over car and it starts...check engine light goes out... then comes back on a half to a 1/4 second later and car at same time light comes on, stops firing and dies. Dash lights stay on. Restart attempt will NOT give any start at all!..UNTIL you turn key off a second, then try again and it does start and die just as above. Key must be turned to off to get another restart and die. Sequential repeated attempts bring the same result. Walk away, for 15 minuets, or sometimes for hours, or days, and it starts and is fine again, and will restart multiple times in a row,... until you walk away again and come back...at which time it may again do the start and die pattern again. If it is in a start mood, you can drive it hours and it keeps running fine... if you turn it off... it is luck of the draw if it does the no start thing or will start for you and go.
- Main relay clicks in each time, fuel pump primes each time key turned off and back on.
- Keeping key in start does NOT cause motor to continue to fire or check engine light to stay off. Engine still dies in 1/2 second even as starter continues to crank.
- Check engine light is giving a code 15 for electrical issue when check is done.
- Took out main relay and re-soldered the connections on it.... it seems fine.
- Does not seem to be key contacts related to me, wiggle key, mess with key, etc. all you want has no effect. Holding key in start does not keep it running.
- It is almost like the computer kills the car after 1/2 second as it turns on check engine light.
I have seen other threads about this, but no clear answer, often people stop posting before telling what finally fixed it. One example is here:
car starts and dies immediately, then only cranks.
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The other night I passed a car overheating (Subaru) and checked my temp gauge and saw my needle was gradually climbing towards the half mark. This is not normal for my 96 Honda Accord. No lights coming on, so I blasted the heater and needle immediately returned to it's normal position. Filled the coolant, it was low, but the problem remains if the heater isn't turned on to at least 3. This doesn't seem extreme enough to be the thermostat. Could my fan be out?
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Two things are going on with my car. First, when I drive at freeway speeds and turn on the heater, the car temperature drops and then I hear the sound of a tea kettle going off. Second, I hear an off and on sound coming from under the hood on the passenger side. It sounds like metal scratching on metal or like a soft whistle sound. 1997 Honda Accord LX
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2005 Honda Accord.
Problem 1: Now that is is finally getting below freezing and I am having to use my heat, and I have noticed that it will all of a sudden blow ice cold air. It does not matter if I am idle / accelerating / decelerating. I must provide a disclaimer... I have not had to use the heat in the car since I purchased it Certified Used from the dealer in South Florida. After moving back to where it actually gets cold I find this issue. I had my trusty mechanic look at it and he flushed the heater core. That is problem 1.
Problem 2: For about 6 months now my car has been doing this odd shaking routine. It happens probably every time I am out driving. When it starts to shake, I can prevent it from dying by revving the engine. It does not matter if I have just started the car, am sitting at idle or if I am driving down the road. No check engine light or malfunction indicator light has come on the entire time. It feels like the car just runs hard, not nice and smooth like it used to. I have brought my car in to the trusty mechanic three times now and he can not find any problems. I did notice this morning that while sitting idle at the stop light, my car had its little epileptic shake and then stopped and the RPM's dropped to 500.
Later when I arrived at my destination, while sitting at idle before getting out of the car, the RPM's were at 2000. I have routinely put in fuel injector cleaner additive when I fill up with gas... maybe once a month. I usually fill up with regular gas, but will occasionally fill up with premium. This whole situation is blowing my mind!
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I have narrowed down my starting issue to a faulty relay(409). When I pulled the relay and cleaned the contacts and reinstalled the pump primed and the car started. Car will idle for about a 1/2 hour and out of the blue it shuts off. If I try to restart, 9 times out of 10 it does not start. If i tap the relay, it starts right up. If the car is running and I tap on the relay the car stutters and if I tap it again it shuts off.
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This happens not all the time, can cold start and the car runs fine but then once its shut off then started for use again later it will shut down, sit on roadside for 2 minutes with key off and then restart and good to go again...its a random thing...the check engine light does come on...
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Just replaced the starter and battery on my old but loved 4Runner. I drove it for an hour and a half last week and couldn't restart it. Just nothing - one click I think. A friend tapped on the starter and it started...but I'm not sure whether the car just cooled down at that point. Took it to the garage and they said they couldn't find anything wrong (no surprise, right?) Now I'm afraid to take longer trips.
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My 2005 4.6 supercrew is worthless for short trips.....I am freezing and pick any other ford to drive.....my v10 heats up totally in 5 minutes so I know something is not right.....I have changed the thermostat....( its been like this since new ) the fluid levels are perfect....what is up ?
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My GC is overheating. Started as occasionally but now increasing in frequency. I find it will being to overheat after driving on the interstate for half hour or so but I can "calm" it back down but turning on the heat. I've replaced the following:
1. coolant (no drips or leaks nor am I losing coolant over time)
2. thermostat (twice)
3. temperature sensor
4. serpentine belt and tensioner
5. radiator (last summer)
6. water pump (last winter)
I notice the fans run more often than they should. For example, after a 10 minute ride to work in the morning,. I notice the fans are running as I pull into my parking space.
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I have been having a brake drag problem with my '89 Jeep Wrangler. I posted this problem previously when I thought it was an E-brake issue. I did a rear drum spring set change. The problem persisted, so I asked the local auto parts store and they said it could be a faulty master cylinder which I just replaced. The brakes felt fine for the first 1/2 hour driving, then the pedal started feeling harder to push and the brakes were dragging again. I jacked the car up and removed the tires to find both front calipers tight on the rotor, the rears would spin. With someone pressing the pedal, I did not notice any caliper movement.
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I have a 2003 rav4 with about 100000 miles on it. Over the last 4 months I have noticed that, whenever I drive half hour or longer on the highway the car starts to smell like burning rubber or burning antifreeze or something like that. I live close to work, play, and groceries, so I don't drive it that long very often. I have not noticed decreased levels of any of my fluids. No change in performance either. I've had the oil changed regularly and no problems there. I am about to drive it a thousand plus miles and would love to get this figured out before I go.
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I noticed through careful investigation that my 03 GTI 1.8T (180,000 KM's or 111,850 miles) will grind 3rd when in these conditions:
1. When the car has been driving for more then half an hour and everything is hot
2. When the car is over 2800 RPM's while hot (ie. getting on a highway)
Now I know lot's of people blame syncro's and yes I could see that my car has had 8 previous owners so I can't say they all shifted perfect. But what I do know is that when I downshift from either 4th or Neutral it will never grind even when I don't Rev Match or "Blip" the throttle. So it can't be syncro's in my opinion.
So what I've done to the car to rule out some problems were:
- Change the gear oil from what ever it was before to Royal Purple 75W-90 (NO luck.)
- Then I added a short shifter and adjusted my cables properly (still No luck)
- Finally I noticed my shifter was sloppy and one of my bushings were torn so I bought 42 DD's metal bushings and the shifter did stiffen up a lot, however!!! (No luck)
I know it's not my driving technique because I watch my foot depress the clutch fully and then I gently push it into third. I also know I'm shifting correctly because I can double clutch and normally shift through every other gear properly without any grinds or clunks. Just the devilish 3rd gear.
I would like to hear the solution. I'm going to change the oil one more time to Redline MT-90 and see how that goes, but if that doesn't work I might just tear apart or get a new tranny.
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My wife was recently driving our 2007 Honda Odyssey on the highway at approximately 60mph when the van suddenly and significantly decelerated. It did this while my wife had her foot on the accelerator and without her activating the brakes. It occured twice in quick succession and then the van returned to normal operation. She did not notice an increase in rpms or hear any loud noises. After this happened, I took the van to the local Honda dealer and they could not find anything wrong with the vehicle. They made an educated guess that it might be the beginning signs of a transmission failure. The van has 72000 miles on it. I am concerned about the safety implications if this were to happen again...
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My '93 Honda Accord has developed a problem with starting and holding its idle. After the car has sat overnight or for several hours, it may be hard to start. (Sometimes it starts right away!)
It can take several minutes to start idling well or it may be fine in seconds. It's all very inconsistent.
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I have a weird issue on my 2008 Elantra. The heater starts blowing luke warm/cold air after running for about 1 hour or so and stays like that.
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My 2002 Honda Accord (225000 miles) would not start this morning. It rained all night so I am going to remove plugs, wires, and cap to dry out. The car was not choking or stalling yesterday, so I don't think it is a fuel issue i.e., fuel pump.
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It usually takes three times of trying to start before it actually completely starts,it starts then immediately stalls usually twice and on the third try it starts right up.
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I have a 2005 Honda Accord EX 4-cyl with a very peculiar problem. The car will start and run fine as long as I don't have to shut it off and restart it. However, once I shut it off, it will not start back up unless I give it some gas. Once started, the car will not idle unless the gas is pressed to maintain revs. This happens when the car is shutoff for a just one second, and only when warm. Once the car cools down, it starts and idles fine.
I've tried changing the FI Main Relay and it didn't work. I've also flushed the coolant and changed the radiator cap which seemed to work a little bit. I recently cleaned the Idle Air Control Valve which didn't make any difference. The Fuel Filter has been replaced as well. There are no CELs on and the car has 267,000 miles.
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I have a 2004 Honda Accord 4 cyl that just had spark plugs changed and battery posts cleaned but is acting like it doesn't want to start. Today it stalled 2x when I tried to start it and on 3rd attempts turned over. I put some fuel enhancer (from NAPA) in w/ premium gas, but usually don't get premium. I live on dirt road so it might cause problems. Honestly, I don't know a whole lot about cars but love my accord and want to fix it myself, if possible. What I should do or look into fixing?
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