Honda - Accord :: Dashboard Gauges Don't Work And Cannot Shift From Park
Mar 2, 2011
I own a 1994 Honda Accord with 200,000+ miles on it. Suddenly the Dashboard controls stopped working, and the shift lever wont shift out of Park unless I manually force it to shift by inserting key in to the slot beside the shift lever. I suspect it has something to do with the brake fuse. Where the break fuse is located.
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When it is cold outside and I want to turn my heat on in my car, it takes a loooong while for heat to be produced. I have to have the car moving at a high rate of speed before any heat is made. Even when it is turned all the way to the hottest setting it just spits out cold air. Here is the real problem. If I have the temperature on the heat and the car is idle, the temperature gauge on the instrument panel starts to move around to the RED side(meaning the engine is hot, right?)
As long as the car is moving the gauge will stay in the BLUE(engine is cool, right?) As soon as I stop the car at a red light or sit in traffic(which is usually the case) sure enough the little temperature needle begins to make its way to the RED side. As soon as I move again, it normals again. I have taken this to several mechanics and they have said that they do not know what is wrong and they think that it may just be a faulty temp gauge(this does not seem right) I do not really know if the car is in fact overheating when the gauge starts its travels or if the car is fine and I just have something that is faulty.
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i've got an accord 4 cylinder with an automatic transmission that does not engage any of the other gears when i shift it out of park. all indicator lights are out except for the park position on the dash.
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How can I reset the Maintenance Req'd reminder on my dash so it disappears? My car is a 2005 Honda Accord LX 2-dr coupe automatic, 2.4 liter, 4 cyl.
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My 2008 Honda Accord 's dashboard Engine Malfunction Light got lit. I have driven a further 4 kilometers and stopped at a lube station and found that oil level is a little low.
Did an engine flush and refilled with synthetic oil. The MFL light is gone after a minute of starting and it stayed out.
Now the problem that I am facing is poor gas mileage. I can literally see the fuel guage going down while driving . A full tank now gets me around 200 KM rather than 550-600 which I usually get.
Google search suggested an ECU reset. Is this safe ? or should the car need to go to the service station?
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I have a 2008 Honda Accord that about 4 months ago the drl light on the dashboard would come on for a few seconds and then go off. This happened 2 or 3 times a week. During this time the driver side drl light would also quit working. A couple of weeks later it progressed to the drl dashboard light would come on, then the tpms dashboard light would also come on. After an intermittent period of time (seconds to minutes) the icon showing low tire pressure would flash for a second and the drl light and tpms light would go off. This happened maybe 3 times in a day, then not happen again for a week or so. Air pressure in all tires was correct. About week ago it progressed to the drl dashboard light and the tpms dashboard light stay on all the time and neither the drl light (drl mode or high beam or will work on the driver side. In the past few days the low beam on the driver side has also quit working.
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2005 Honda Accord. I have been experiencing a loss of electricity to my dashboard - the radio cuts out, tach and speedometer needles drop, sometimes warning lights come on. I don't think I have experience a loss of power with this but when it happens, it lasts less than a second.
I can go days of driving without issue. Then, in one drive it may happen four or five times. I hate the idea of taking it into the dealer on an intermittent electrical issue. That could be a real bank drain.
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The leak is only present when it rains. It drops from behind the dashboard onto the foot rest (left of the break pedal) soaking the floor mat and carpet. Where is the water coming from and how can I plug the leak? 2002 Honda Accord EX...
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When I go to start my car it has a solid red light around park, as it should, but it has a flashing green light around drive also. When this happens my car will not start. I usually try it a few times, wait and try and try again until it finally starts up. Once it starts the drives light is still blinking so I turn the car off and back on, then it is good to go. This does not happen every time, it seem sporadic. The engine, battery and oil light stay on, but I think it may only be because the car is starting up, usually the lights come on when starting then go off once the car is ready. Btw it is a 1993 Honda Accord.
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I have a 1992 Honda Accord with an automatic transmission and recently I've started having some problems. About 3 weeks ago I noticed that, when I parked my car and put the shifter in "Park", the shifter became locked in this position. In other words, I cannot release the shifter from "Park" unless I use the car key to unlock the shifter. So, I started parking my car in neutral (there are few hills in my area) so that I didn't have to unlock the shifter each time. Occasionally I park the car in "Reverse" (after turning the car off), although I have to put the car in neutral to start it up.
Today I started my car and noticed that I had very little acceleration. In fact, when I was on a slight incline, waiting to pull out into an intersection, it was difficult to keep my car from rolling backward. Also, when I pulled out into the intersection, it accelerated very slowly and took much longer than usual to get up to normal speed. However, after the car sat for 5 hours afterward, I started it and it began accelerating normally once again. This is the first time I've had this problem with the car.
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Lately, when I put the car into Park, I often hear a short beeping noise....sometimes one tone, sometimes two. Nothing seems to be wrong with the transmission, and my mechanic has no idea what it is.
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1999 Accord Coupe. Stuck in park, starter motor turns engine over fine but ignition does not fire. Problem was intermittent twice last week.
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Seems to work when I rotate the steering wheel somewhat...maybe this jiggers/resets that ignition switch "area" thus allowing me to fully depress the button on the transmission stick. Is it the ignition switch? Should I replace it?
NOTE: Shift Lock Override Button is missing, but I can insert a pencil in the hole which then depresses a spring which then lets me shift out of Park. WIFE says that not good enough...
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My exhaust decided to break off at the back of the resonator. The flex pipe has to be welded back on and I also have a 1x 2 hole on the exhaust pipe before the resonator, so I figured I'd just buy a replacement exhaust & resonator and be done with it. Well problem is the stock resonator is 18'' long and the one on the new part is only 8''. I'm certainly no expert on exhaust or acoustics, but won't the different size resonator make the car louder?
Questions: Will a different size resonator make my exhaust louder? How exactly does a resonator work?
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I just bought a 95 honda civic si vtec automatic. I've had it almost two weeks I haven't had any problems with it until the other night my dashboard lights went out, I looked at the fuse it was bad so I replaced it but then I turned the car on and I can't shift out of park. Yes brake lights work and all the other fuses are just fine. I also have my gear shifter lights out and my stereo is suppose to turn on when I start the car but will no longer turn on at all. People say it's fuses, my transmissions locked....
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I have a 97 Honda Accord ex, and no matter how hot or cold it is outside, if the car hasn't been ran in more than an hour or two, it needs 5 minutes to warm up, (RPMs go down to 500, then rev up to 1200. That's how I know I can go) or else when driving it will stay in first gear and not allow me to go faster than 20 MPH. My mechanic said that the codes P0171 and P0505 came up. Also, the gas mileage is terrible, even after my fuel filter was changed.
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When I had other repairs done they told me that problem was in the number 2 cylinder and it was an internal problem. It was out of their league. I called Honda dealership, they had a girl on the phone and she said she couldn't give me a quote I would have to pay 85. to find out what it was. I don't think she knew what she was talking about. i need a quote how much this should be to fix it before I pay 85. for something that maybe thousands of dollars to fix. The car jerks when it is going into another gear especially in the 1st and 2nd gear. It like shoots off. Jerks and then kicks. If ya know what I mean. Like a transmission slip but I had that checked, that wasn't it. confirmed 2 places that is not the issue.
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I own a Elantra 2011 and I have a major problem. I cannot shift from PARK to DRIVE and my electric windows doesn't work either ! Everything else working fine and the car start normally !! The dealer cannot find the trouble and the car just have 19802 KM on it!!
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I have a 2007 Honda Civic with an automatic transmission that started acting up tonight. I am having difficulty getting it to shift out of park. Once I finally get it out of park, it shifts to everything else fine. It's not because the wheel is locked (checked that already). What could be the problem and how cheap can I get it fixed? I just got socked nearly $800 for an alternator and battery when I broke down in Indianapolis during my vacation and was lead to believe, by the garage that repaired it, that my serpentine belt was going to go at any time. In any event, it's the only car my family has, it has 177,777 miles on it (roughly) and we can't afford to trade it in for another vehicle. We have to keep it running.
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My '91 Accord is going strong -- bought it new in '91. A few years ago I removed the AC compressor after it failed and did not want to incur the cost to replace it. As a result the defroster does not work optimally. How to improve the defrosting without being able to run the AC?
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Okay just got a 1992 honda accord automatic and sometimes when you stop at a light it will downshift to first and take off other times it wont downshift and stay in overdrive on take off...
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