Honda - Accord :: Code P2647 - Rocker Arm Actuator System Is Stuck Open
Mar 16, 2012
Yesterday the check engine light came on 03 Accord EX 4-cyl auto, the code is P2647. According to the dealership and O’Reilly print out it can be a number of things. The car starts running rough after 2700 rpms, and then (if you keep pressing accelerator) dies.
So I can drive it now as long as I do not accelerate too much. (That is great for the gas mileage, but does not work on the on-ramps)I did replace engine oil and filter yesterday, but the engine light is still on with the same code. The car has 175K miles.
O’Reilly manual suggests replacing:
•VTEC Oil pressure switch
•VCT Solenoid
•Pressure switch
•Solenoid Valve Assembly
The Honda Dealership said it might be:
•VTC Oil Control in Valve Assembly
•Valve Timing Oil pressure in the switch assembly
View 3 Replies
Advertisement
I have a P2440 code from warning light- Secondary AIR System Switching Valve A' Stuck Open. This started to appear when I took it into the dealer for other issue with transfer case whining when in 4x4. Can this code be associated with something the mechanic did , would they remove any sensors or wires, that may not have put back. Not happy. Are these trucks know for this code? Estimate cost?
View 4 Replies
P0420 Catalyst System below efficiency -- bank 1
I've had this code for a couple months trying to trouble shoot it. My gas mileage has been affected, as I'm getting about 23/24 MPG city/highway. I replaced the upstream 02 sensor with am aftermarket Bosch variety( I'm not sure why a non-OEM one would make a difference, as long it's working correctly).
My car has 253k miles, the cat doesn't rattle and I don't smell any rotten eggs or anything, but it has to be clogged or the 02 sensor I got was defective. My engine runs fine and I don't have any problems accelerating or decelerating. It may still be the 02 sensor since the gas mileage decrease is so significant, or it could be my converter is really clogged up.
View 19 Replies
10 months ago I purchased a 2007 Accord with a bad driver's door lock actuator. I replaced it myself 5 months ago, and when I did so, I discovered that it had been previously replaced, at least once. A month ago it went out again. Not sure if its relevant, but this time when it stopped working I had accidentally pulled the door handle at the same time that I pressed the unlock button on the key fob.
View 3 Replies
I have a 2011 honda accord and removed the brake fluid cap just fine to check it, in about October but I went to check it again today and the cap won't come off, I wonder if it's because of the cold weather? (36 f) It came off so easy last time I don't remember which way to turn it, and if I should press up or down when turning. The cap will rotate about a quarter inch either way, then won't go any farther. It hits these little white plastic pieces stopping it from going farther.
Here is a picture of what it looks like [URL] .... if you try to turn it left it gets caught on that little white plastic piece on the bottom and there is a similar piece stopping it from going right.
View 19 Replies
1999 Accord Coupe. Stuck in park, starter motor turns engine over fine but ignition does not fire. Problem was intermittent twice last week.
View 10 Replies
I have a 98 Honda Accord in pretty good shape even though it has 340,000 miles on it. For the past month I have intermittently been having the dash idiot light that shows all 4 doors and the trunk lid is open -- coming on. In addition, the "brake" light that is just to the right of the blue "high beam" dash light, also comes on and the past week the "battery" light comes on. It also seems like the headlights slightly dim and maybe even the blower motor slows down just little. It started out lasting less than a second and now last maybe 2 or 3 seconds. I took it by one of the Advanced Auto parts stores and they did a diagnose check on the alternator, starter and battery. Everything at that moment, checked out fine. Alternator checked out good during regular operation and under loaded condition. Almost everything on the car is original except timing belt.
View 2 Replies
We have a 98 Honda Civic that recently developed a problem with the throttle getting stuck open. With the engine off, the throttle will return to the idle position. However, with the engine is running, when the accelerator pedal is pressed, the engine revs increase, but then do not decrease when the pedal is let off. The same thing happens when the throttle is manually opened (not using the cable) with the engine running. The valve for the air intake doe not seem particularly dirty. I cleaned the spring assembly which I initially thought was the problem. The car is sitting the the driveway with both of us moderately terrified of driving it?
View 12 Replies
I have a Honda Accord 2009 sedan. The CD player reads audio CDs well; however, it does not read MP3 CDs that I burned using iTunes. I have tried multiple CDs but had no success. What should I do? Should I take it to dealer? I am just worried that they are gonna charge me for diagnosis.
View 9 Replies
My 1990 Honda Accord is stuck in "sport", and won't shift past second gear. The button isn't stuck, but the "S" light stays on.
View 3 Replies
I have a 09 Honda Accord manual transmission V6 with 59K miles. Recently, it seems to stick a little going into 3rd gear - only third. Called our local dealer's service department who said I should have done a drain and fill on my transmission fluid at 30K miles. I have driven manual transmissions for 30+ years and have never heard of this - but this is my first Honda. The owners manual is not very specific about this maintenance recommendation. Did I create unnecessary wear and tear to my transmission or is my dealers service tech just working to humble me?
View 4 Replies
2001 Honda Accord 4 cylinder... At 256K miles I had the battery and open doors, open trunk lights illuminate intermittently. Initially the lights came on for 1/2 mile. 150 miles later it was more like 20 miles on, off for a mile, on for 40 miles, off for 25 miles, on for 10 miles, and then off. A Honda dealer ( after the first 20 miles of battery light being on and 70 miles from home) replaced the battery and the lights came back on a mile down the road. I managed to get home. With engine running running battery voltage was 14.4 volts. The light stayed off for 30 miles the next day. AutoZone found no diagnostic codes. A mechanic told me that the battery light could be intermittent with a failing alternator. I changed the alternator (cracked case). The voltmeter again showed 14.4 volts with engine running. Will the car return to reliability?
View 1 Replies
So, i have a 1996 honda accord, i just had a new alternator put on yesterday. Well before then, when the old one was still in the car, my car would heat up while i was sitting still and it was drinking coolant and water like crazy!!! I was thinking that maybe i was having a head problem, but i didn't see any tell tale signs of coolant leaking over into the oil. So, today was the first day i drove to work with the new alternator on, i filled it up with coolant before i left for work, i drove 20 minutes to work and 20 minutes back home.
The temperature gauge never moved above the middle line, even when i was at a sit still with the car on. I checked the coolant level after the car cooled off, and it was still pretty full. Could a bad alternator effect the performance of your cooling system? I am by no means, complaining about this, I am very happy my car isn't heating up abnormally anymore, just curious was the alternator my problem?
View 6 Replies
I had a code for the EGR valve stuck open. I tried cleaning it but it didn't work (and didn't seem that dirty). Then I tried replacing it. Both times the code came back. What should I do now? I reset the code each time by disconnecting the battery.
View 14 Replies
I have a 98 accord Ex. Just a couple of days ago the exhaust system started to rattle. I crawled under the the car and found that the exhaust pipes were pretty rusted. However I couldn't decide which parts of exhaust system should be replaced: the muffler, exhaust pipes, or the catalytic converter? Is there any tips to identify the broken parts?
View 4 Replies
I have a wiring issue. I have found a broken conductor in my brake light system, which causes my right and high-mount brake lights not to function. If I give the wire a good wiggling and fanangaling, I can get all the brake lights to come on, but eventually they go out again after driving for a few days. The problem I have is this: I don't know how to release the wire from its terminations. Unfortunately, I think the break is close to the connector (away from the bulb socket), so I can't just cut out the middle and splice in a new conductor. How to free the wires from this connector and bulb socket? I'm afraid to do too much tinkering for fear of pulling loose another, undamaged wire. The wire in question is the orange one.
View 5 Replies
2002 Ranger 2.3L, 5 spd, 108,000 miles
This has been from about 10,000 miles now. I have cleared the codes, sometimes it will go away for a day or two, but usually is back almost immediately. Finally last week I removed the solenoid and two vacuum lines hoping I would find a cracked hose like others have. No go there, but I replaced the vacuum lines anyway and dosed the vacuum ports on the solenoid with a little carb cleaner. Started truck up and revved it a few times, light stayed out. Next morning the check engine light was back on again.
Guess it must be in the actuator or the IMRC itself. Any success story about using some kind of cleaner to try to degunk this first (assuming it is stuck, that is...) without having to tear it apart?
View 8 Replies
I have a 2002 Accord with about 130k miles on it and the brakes don't have nearly the power that they used to. The pads and rotors are due for replacement but even then, the system is pretty weak. Would replacing the master cylinder? What about simply replacing the brake fluid (I doubt it has ever been changed)? And/or the calipers? The car is in great condition and I really like it so I don't mind investing some time and money to get more years out of it.
View 10 Replies
2001 Honda Accord EX 2.3L 4cyl. check engine light is flashing off and on with a PO1399 code
View 2 Replies
So I recently changed the air filter in my car. Its hard to get to and replace. Its in a tough spot and I am not sure if I secured the cover fully and completely. I am pretty sure I did. Anyway, a week later I had my check engine light come on, it stayed on for a couple hours then went off. It hasn't come back on since. However, I went to the Autozone, anyway, and had them read the code. They said it was P0171, system too lean bank 1. Is this a serious issue? What are some common ways to fix it, if it is? The car is a 2005, Honda Accord EX. 4 cyclinders. PZEV version. It has 142,000 miles on it.
View 4 Replies
Dealer said 90% bad ECU, 10% shift solenoid. ECU replace at dealer .. got code from auto zone, P0756 shift solenoid S2 blocked oil passage, stuck open. tranny shop took 2 days to confirm shift solenoid, changed out shift solenoid #2 35240, still have problem.. now they say it's ECU, rebuild my ECU.. what to do??!!
View 14 Replies
