Honda - Accord :: Car Temperature Drops When Turn On The Heater
Feb 24, 2011
Two things are going on with my car. First, when I drive at freeway speeds and turn on the heater, the car temperature drops and then I hear the sound of a tea kettle going off. Second, I hear an off and on sound coming from under the hood on the passenger side. It sounds like metal scratching on metal or like a soft whistle sound. 1997 Honda Accord LX
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I have a 2004 Honda Civic that has about 183,000 miles.The problem is that when I start my car in the morning, the car never totally warms up when it's cold outside (I live in VA), until I press the gas pedal and rev the engine. Until I press the gas pedal, the temperature gauge stays at cold, and the heater blows cool air. I've taken it to the dealer 12 times for the same issue, but they can never find the real problem.
They flushed the A/C hoses and radiator, replaced the radiator cap, installed an upper hose, installed head gasket, water pump, and while there, the timing belt. They've also "burped" it numerous times. Also, when I have the heater on and fan on high, the temperature gauge drops as I'm going down a mountain and not pressing the gas pedal. After driving, and I stop, it also slowly drops while idling for about 5 - 10 min.
When it's warmer outside, I don't have any problems, because I don't have the heater on. This has been going on for about 1 1/2 years now, and it's starting to get cooler again, so I need to get it fixed or sell it.
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1998 Honda Civic EX. This has been a great car and have got a ton of good miles on it. The problem that I am having now is with the temperature gauge. The measurement is completely all over the place while driving. While moving around town, the gauge shows the temperature VERY hot. As soon as I reach a consistent speed, the temperature drops back to normal (moves very erratically!). The gauge seems to get even hotter while idling. Another issue (may or may not be related) is the heat coming out of the vents is only working while the car is in motion. While stopped, it pumps out cold air. The temperature immediately changes when I get going again. Both problems seem to be getting worse. The car has coolant, and all other levels of fluids are normal.
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It only burns oil when the ambient temp is above freezing. Why would this be?
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The leak is only present when it rains. It drops from behind the dashboard onto the foot rest (left of the break pedal) soaking the floor mat and carpet. Where is the water coming from and how can I plug the leak? 2002 Honda Accord EX...
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My '01 Grand Cherokee Limited is overheating. I have changed the thermostat and ran a leak test. I am not having a leak. The temp drops when I turn on the A/C or heater. I went back to the shop that changed the thermostat and leak test. They said it was the fan control and I have to go to the dealer to reflash the program for the fan control. I made the mistake of asking the dealer to reflash, instead of having them check on the overheating problem. I'm planning on going back to the dealer to have them diagnose the issue.
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I have had my honda for a few months now and have had a few problems in that time. At first it started with the check engine light coming on when heated up but then my car began to randomly die while I'm driving down the road. Every time that it would die I was able to start it back up almost right after it died. Also when I come to a stop my temperature gauge will start to rise and when I turn the car off I can hear the fans continuing to run for about 10 mins. Now my car will drive until it heats up and then it will die and not start back up until it has cooled down. My dad told me that he thought that my main relay went bad but I replaced that and nothing has changed...
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On my 99 accord (v4, lx) i am unable to change temperature i.e no matter whether the knob is turned to cold or hot, it stays hot. AC doesn't work. fan still works.defrost front/rear is not working.. Its like the heating/ac controls are not working.
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2005 Honda Accord.
Problem 1: Now that is is finally getting below freezing and I am having to use my heat, and I have noticed that it will all of a sudden blow ice cold air. It does not matter if I am idle / accelerating / decelerating. I must provide a disclaimer... I have not had to use the heat in the car since I purchased it Certified Used from the dealer in South Florida. After moving back to where it actually gets cold I find this issue. I had my trusty mechanic look at it and he flushed the heater core. That is problem 1.
Problem 2: For about 6 months now my car has been doing this odd shaking routine. It happens probably every time I am out driving. When it starts to shake, I can prevent it from dying by revving the engine. It does not matter if I have just started the car, am sitting at idle or if I am driving down the road. No check engine light or malfunction indicator light has come on the entire time. It feels like the car just runs hard, not nice and smooth like it used to. I have brought my car in to the trusty mechanic three times now and he can not find any problems. I did notice this morning that while sitting idle at the stop light, my car had its little epileptic shake and then stopped and the RPM's dropped to 500.
Later when I arrived at my destination, while sitting at idle before getting out of the car, the RPM's were at 2000. I have routinely put in fuel injector cleaner additive when I fill up with gas... maybe once a month. I usually fill up with regular gas, but will occasionally fill up with premium. This whole situation is blowing my mind!
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I've had this checked out twice by the dealer and once by another mechanic and they say there's nothing wrong ....
First symptom: the heater will start out hot but about a half-hour into my trip into work it significantly cools down. I'm not sure if it's starting out too hot and cooling down appropriately but I think not ... it gets downright cool at 70 degrees.
Second symptom: I sometimes smell coolant in the passenger compartment, usually while I'm operating the heater. However, in these last bitter cold days I've smelled it when I get into my cold car in the garage in the morning.
Third symptom: I have a film on the inside of my windshield on the lower one-sixth or so ... it gets very cloudy, particularly when I circulate air to the windshield or turn on the AC to defog. I've asked three times to have the heater core checked and they all say it's fine.
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My 07 Accord V6 won't turn over. Brand new battery showing 12.5 volts, and I checked all the fuses. All other electrical is in working condition. Had the wife turn the key while I tapped on the starter with no luck. Then I measured the voltage coming into the solenoid from the starter while sitting there and 0 volts, then had the wife turn the key and it was showing 10.5 volts.
I took off the kick panel and swapped the ACC relay for the starter cut relay ( they're identical) and still nothing. I'm pretty much down to it being a problem with the ignition switch, but I'm not looking forward to getting into the steering column. What else it could be, or have some tips for what I should do / be looking for if I get into the steering column?
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I have a 97 accord that i am having issues with. When I turn the key it does not crank luckily it is manual tranny so i jump start it. the battery is good i also put new terminals thinking those were the issue but still having problems.
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I have a 1992 accord Lx +200k. The problem I have is the car wont start. It will crank but wont turn over. I thought it might have been the fuel pump relay so I replaced it. It worked for awhile but now the problem has persist.
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I've replaced the turn signal switch, bulbs and relay fuse. Hazards work and everything else, just no signals. What am I missing??
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I have a 1991 Accord that won't turn on the high beams. I can pull the dimmer switch and it clicks and the dash indicator comes on for the high beams but it just keeps the low beams on. I am guessing the dimmer relay isn't working properly but am not sure how to test it. Also where would I buy one? I have checked a couple sites and even a search doesn't bring it up.
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I have a 2006 honda accord with about 65k miles on it. Off late, i have been hearing a distinct whirring sound when i turn the key on. this sound gets louder as and when i accelerate and fades out.
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My son wrecked his 01 Honda, front drivers side front. After replacing his wheel and headlight, his front wheels will turn left but won't turn right all the way.
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Last night we noticed that the main brake lights (not the CHMSL) on our 1997 Accord sedan wouldn't turn off. I tapped and released the brake pedal to make sure it wasn't stuck. Changed gears through drive, reverse, and park. The lights were continually lit, even after the car was shut off. I didn't want them to drain the battery, so I removed the bulbs (boy, were they HOT) and the car is now grounded temporarily.When I pulled the bulbs, I saw a warning light on the dash come on. I red bar near the bottom of the (non-working) speedometer that says Brake Lights or something. I think it's short hand for "Hey you idiot! Put the brake light bulbs back in!"So at least it knows the circuit is broken. So, the question is, what caused this,and how do I fix it without taking it to the dealership?
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My 2004 Honda Accord V6 got a new Diehard in 10/2010. AAA says it is not the battery or the starter. When I turn the key there is a click and all the electrical components turn on. What it could be?
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I have a 1998 or 1997 Honda Accord and just noticed the other day that my left turn signal was blinking faster than normal. Now I know that this would denote a burnt lightbulb but I got out of my car to see if one wasn't working on my left side. All of my lights seem to be "on" but the left side turn signals are flashing faster than normal. Also I did hit a speed bump at app. 40 mph the other day.
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My 1997 Honda, with 200,000 miles was making a clunking noise when I turned right. The mechanic replaced the rack & pinion, which stopped the clunking. However, it still makes a rhythmical softer clunking or clicking sound on right turns. It takes a while on the road for this to start, but once it starts, it happens on every single right turn. The mechanic said there is nothing wrong with the axle or the struts or anything whatsoever and it is probably just the flap hitting the fender, or something like that bec the car is so old. However, the noise is too rhythmical, too consistent for me to be confident that it is just pieces of rubber or metal randomly brushing together.
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