Honda - Accord :: Can't Move Transmission Stick Out Of Park Intermittently?
Oct 8, 2011
Seems to work when I rotate the steering wheel somewhat...maybe this jiggers/resets that ignition switch "area" thus allowing me to fully depress the button on the transmission stick. Is it the ignition switch? Should I replace it?
NOTE: Shift Lock Override Button is missing, but I can insert a pencil in the hole which then depresses a spring which then lets me shift out of Park. WIFE says that not good enough...
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I have a Santa Fe Style CRDI Auto from 2011 which is not covered by Warranty and has only done 6000 miles.
The problem is that the Gear Stick Won't Move from the 'Park' position (with the engine on and brake fully pressed down).
There have been issues over the last couple of weeks where it was difficult to move the gear stick at times but it was fine after waiting a few seconds. Now it seems completely stuck.
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I have a 2002 Honda Accord SE Sedan. 119K miles. The transmission slips sometimes especially when I start after stopping at a red light. My mechanic recommended not to change the transmission fluid as the transmission can go down and might need a new transmission. He also told me that 2002 Honda Accords are known for this issue.
So my question: Is my mechanic right? Or should I go ahead and flush the transmission fluid and replace it?
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"my Honda accord 98, is stick shift and recently it has been rattleting a bit when I switch to speed one. if I don't push the clutch it shakes and wants to almost turn off."
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2013 Accord Sport, 3k miles ... It's 10 degrees in WI today. This is 1st time I had this problem. I press the washer lever towards and the washer fluid comes out, but the wipers don't move. They are not stuck on the windshield because of ice or anything either. What can I check?The next question is the turn signal. What does the lever do when you push the lever towards the dash? It clicks, but I don't notice that it does anything?
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I pulled into my garage yesterday and when I tried to move the transmission into Park it would not move. I tried turning the engine off and nothing would allow the transmission selector to move. I thought I would have to push something into the transmission lock slot but the only thing I had that was close to being able to fit into the small slot was the key in the FOB but it would not fit. By pure chance I happen to push on the transmission selector to the right and it moved over and then I was able to push it forward into Park. I must have pushed the selector into the sport mode when I entered the garage.
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One morning after parking and turning the car off, I tried to restart and it just made a sad attempt. A few minutes later it started, but still seemed to take too long. I took it to the dealer and they said the Alternator needed to be replaced, so they replaced it with a rebuilt alternator (without asking me if i wanted rebuilt or new). Anyway.. when i picked it up it still seems to start a bit slower than normal, but they said that is typical for hondas. A couple of weeks later, I picked up my car from the airport after it sat there for 2 nights. It started slowly but surely. I stopped at store, and then it would not start at all. Barely made any sound at all. no cranking... So i had to have it jump started by a tow truck service.I took it back to Honda and they said everything check out ok, and cannot find any issue.I am afraid to get stranded again. Do I need to buy a new car? This one only has 70k miles !
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2000 Honda Accord. Daughters car and she went to start the car leaving a store and it wouldn't start. She tried a few times. Cranks fine but didn't start. Went and got her and she said that it's happened a couple of times before but she would get it started by waiting and trying until it did. It's been there since last night so it's been about 18 hours when I drove over to look at it and it started right up and I drove it home.
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I have a 99 Honda Accord 4cyl. I am having a problem with not starting from time to time.some days it is fine and will start every time others it might not. It will turn over, fuel pump is running, replaced main/fuel relay, check engine light does not come on and green key light is not on or blink when it dont start. I can leave it for awhile come back and it starts.
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When I go to start my car it has a solid red light around park, as it should, but it has a flashing green light around drive also. When this happens my car will not start. I usually try it a few times, wait and try and try again until it finally starts up. Once it starts the drives light is still blinking so I turn the car off and back on, then it is good to go. This does not happen every time, it seem sporadic. The engine, battery and oil light stay on, but I think it may only be because the car is starting up, usually the lights come on when starting then go off once the car is ready. Btw it is a 1993 Honda Accord.
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I have a 1992 Honda Accord with an automatic transmission and recently I've started having some problems. About 3 weeks ago I noticed that, when I parked my car and put the shifter in "Park", the shifter became locked in this position. In other words, I cannot release the shifter from "Park" unless I use the car key to unlock the shifter. So, I started parking my car in neutral (there are few hills in my area) so that I didn't have to unlock the shifter each time. Occasionally I park the car in "Reverse" (after turning the car off), although I have to put the car in neutral to start it up.
Today I started my car and noticed that I had very little acceleration. In fact, when I was on a slight incline, waiting to pull out into an intersection, it was difficult to keep my car from rolling backward. Also, when I pulled out into the intersection, it accelerated very slowly and took much longer than usual to get up to normal speed. However, after the car sat for 5 hours afterward, I started it and it began accelerating normally once again. This is the first time I've had this problem with the car.
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Lately, when I put the car into Park, I often hear a short beeping noise....sometimes one tone, sometimes two. Nothing seems to be wrong with the transmission, and my mechanic has no idea what it is.
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I own a 1994 Honda Accord with 200,000+ miles on it. Suddenly the Dashboard controls stopped working, and the shift lever wont shift out of Park unless I manually force it to shift by inserting key in to the slot beside the shift lever. I suspect it has something to do with the brake fuse. Where the break fuse is located.
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1999 Accord Coupe. Stuck in park, starter motor turns engine over fine but ignition does not fire. Problem was intermittent twice last week.
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Mechanic could not find any codes on my 98 Honda Accord... The car was intermittently hesitating upon acceleration... There were no leaks or no burning odor. He recommended replacing the transmission and failed to adhere to code 3361.1... The car performed the same way after the transmission was replaced and he "could not duplicate" the problem and therefore could not fix it... He did state the clutch were burnt on the car. After failing a smog check I brought the car to a different mechanic who changed the oxygen sensor and the car has been running fine.
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The power steering on my car is failing intermittently. There is no secret thing to do to make it fail. It's mostly at low/no speed like when pulling into a parking spot. Thus far, I have had the pump replaced twice, pressure valve switch, and the rack and pinion replaced. My mechanic of 10 years is stumped as to what is happening.
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I have a 1998 Honda Accord that intermittently won't start. When the issue occurs the dashboard lights, radio, etc all work just fine, but the engine won't turn over (no clicking, no noise at all). It's standard vehicle, but I definitely have my foot all the way to the floor to depress the clutch safety switch. The issue only seems to occur when the car is warm (i.e. it never happens on the first start in the morning), although it's been known to happen even after 2hrs of cooling down. The issue used to only occur 1 out of 100 starts, but now it's getting closer to 1 out of 4 times. I'm able to get the car going by jump starting it, but that's getting old.
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Own a 2000 Accord EX; 100k...runs great and smooth 99.9% of the time. However every once in a while, like maybe once a month or so it starts, but sounds and feels like its firing on 3 cyl...will die if I try to put in gear, or take foot off accelerator. If I shut it off and try starting it again same thing will happen. However if I let it sit awhile (sometimes one hour sometimes next day) it will start smoothly and run beautifully. Problem seems unrelated to temperature, weather, time since last use, stage of the moon, engine temp, parked on hill or flat road. or who tries to start the car...
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i've got an accord 4 cylinder with an automatic transmission that does not engage any of the other gears when i shift it out of park. all indicator lights are out except for the park position on the dash.
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I have a 1986 Honda Accord Hatchback Lxi, 180,000 miles, automatic, one owner, always excellent care (very recently new spark plugs, new air filter, new oil and filter, and several years ago new Pirelli tires). Lately, while driving, it intermittently loses power, like it's going to stall, but never does. I accelerate to recover. Years ago I used to hear about vapor lock. Last week I took it to a Honda dealer. They had no diagnostic machines for "old" cars and had no clue what was causing this. Most of the time, the car drives beautifully, but it's scary thinking it's going to quit and I'll be stranded on the side of the road.
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I recently purchase a 1991 Honda Accord. When I test drove it the sports light was not on. However when I did the final drive home the sports light was on and would not go off with the switch button. I was reading online and from several responses this seems to be a TCU concern and not the transmission. I gather some info from the internet and it explains how to change the resistor and capacitor in the TCU for under $5 bucks. I did not do this but I did unhook the battery and the sports light was off and came on and off with the button. This only lasted a week. Now the sports light come on and off intermittently and shift drives automatically while driving. Is this a electrical or transmission issue??????. Should I just get brave and refer to the under $5 bucks TCU repair and do it myself or take it to a mechanic.
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