Honda - Accord :: CD Player Does Not Play Discs Above Freezing Temps
Apr 17, 2012
The CD player (6 disk changer) in my 2006 Honda Accord will not play disks above freezing temperatures. (To clarify, it is the model without the GPS.) I say temperatures because the playable cut-off usually fluctuates between 30 and 36 degrees F. Below that temperature, the disk plays fine.
Above that temperature, I will be lucky to get 15 seconds of play before the disk begins to skip and eventually error out. Additionally, the disk will skip and error after the cabin warms up. Over the last 9 or so months, this has been consistent behavior.
I first noticed this last summer in very hot weather when a disk began to skip. Since then, there is only one disk that plays reliably in any weather.
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My ML player all of a sudden won't play or eject any of the discs that are in it. I was watching a DVD waiting for my wife and it must have had a scratch on it because the picture got stuck. I ended up turning it off to listen to the radio. The next day when trying to play a CD all I get is a light grinding/churning noise like the mechanism is stuck or something.
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It only burns oil when the ambient temp is above freezing. Why would this be?
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I had the master cylinder change on a 92 honda accord EX the calibers change and, the master cylinder I have been told does not have any way to adjust the stem on the master cylinder so the brake man ajusted the brake pedal but the brakes are still freezing up. It is an automatic
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My 2008 Sienna DVD player suddenly won't play discs because it doesn't seem to be spinning the disc. Inserting and ejecting the disc goes normally but the nothing happens when the disc is inserted.
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while loading discs the CD player stopped accepting them. it started blinking "Call Sirius". i'm pretty sure the car doesn't have sirius radio and not sure why that'd affect the CD player even if it did. now it blinks "press eject" and is no longer flashing the sirius message. when i press eject it turns off and the radio plays. i tried taking out the fuse and putting it back it but that didn't affect it at all.
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So just recently (few days back) I was playing a DVD Disc, home-burned, with just audio on it. It has about 33 tracks of music on it. I noticed that towards the end of the disc (track 27), it started skipping, having crackling and popping sounds, and eventually just stopped playing and the timer went blank on the screen.
I took it out, the disc looked perfect (I had just burned it). I cleaned the disk anyway, put it back in, and it played fine. The next day, I noticed the same problem with the same disc. I removed the disc, cleaned it, and this time it did not solve the problem.
This morning, I tried a different disc (16 tracks), and the same problem happened after playing track 16 for a few seconds. Crackling/popping, skipping, and then playback stopped. This was also a home-burned DVD disc. No errors are displayed on the screen.
I have noticed no issues towards the beginning of any discs. I have not tried my store-bought DVDs after noticing this issue, but will try those today to see if they have the same problem. If those discs also have the same issue, is it likely an issue related to the laser?
I've got about 21k miles on the car. I have a 2013 ES 350 with the Mark Levinson system.
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I have an 03 F-150 XLT with the 6 disc changer, and I can't get the dang thing to eject. It plays most of the cds fine (sometimes it won't play a certain couple of the six that are in the changer, and reads "CD ERROR" after trying to play the disc for a moment) but it refuses to eject any of the discs. It pushes them out just a little bit and then errors. I've attempted to pull the disc out once its pushed itself out a little, but it won't release them.
I then have to mess with it for several minutes to get it to retake the disc and quit pushing it out again, and then a few more to quit erroring when I change it to disc. I've tried to disconnect the battery (I read in a forum that that sometimes works) but to no avail. I know its a frequent issue with these. I figure I can pull the stereo out and take it apart to get the discs, but how can I fix the issue for good?
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2004 F-150 heritage : 12 degrees F yesterday. clicked (firewall solenoid) but starter was not pulling amps. After putting a jumper pack on it, after about 30-40 clicks it took off, never to work again.....towed it home with a rope.
2000 F-250 Super Duty : 7 degrees F today, did the same except you could tell the starter was pulling amps. Took a lot of clicks and engaged but I let off too quick, another bunch of clicks and it started. Once I moved it, I tried it a bunch more and it seemed to work, however I do not trust it.
2001 Crown Victoria : 7 degrees F today, the first turn of the key was nothing but a click, and the 2nd turn it worked fine. After moving it worked a bunch more times.
Whats up with the cold temps and the starters?
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Tried to eject CDs from player and received an error reading and now CDs won't eject or play.
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I just noticed that my car's cassette player is not ejecting the cassette, not playing it ( means not lowering the cassette inside the deck to play it. Looks like some issue with stuck mechanism.
I want to remove the player open it and study waht's wrong, Is there a easy way to do so ? I can hear it clicking trying to activate the mechanism so it's getting power.
My car is 2005 camry XLE with JBL deck.
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My 2010' camry has a compact disc "stuck" in it. The deck won't play it or eject it. How to get it out?
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Having Error 4 message from the CD player. I just had it today and my CDs won't play and I can't eject them. I have the Mark Levinson. Is it an easy fix?
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I have an 02 250 5.4. 103,000 miles. My truck at random times will not start in below freezing temps. Turns over just fine but Acts as if a frozen fuel line. I can get it running by pouring hot water on the fuel rail or a shot of starting fluid or sometimes both. It's been going on about 3 or 4 weeks now and I have ran through 4 bottles of dry gas with about 15 gallons each time. Also have replaced fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator. I'm 99.9% positive the pump is working and there are no leaks in the lines or holes in tank that I can see. My next step is to drop the tank and clean it out but trying to avoid that.
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Its just around freezing, and damp in Ontario and suddenly, in the mornings my Accord won't start. The battery is fairly new, the engine cranks and seems to almost catch but never quite. Yesterday, i came home at lunch and it started right up (though i didn't drive it), then this morning it wouldn't start, and it still won't. The fuel pump comes on when you turn the key to II.
I had the main relay problem on an older Accord but that doesn't seem to be the case for the 98 to 02 models. It seems like the most common problems are with the ignition switch (recall...but it causes random stalling while driving). The other common one is with the coil pack/ igniter. I'm not sure how to really check these, other than by replacing them. I haven't checked for spark yet but i am about to. How to measure the resistance of the coil (and what it should be?). What about the wires?
Is there an easy to access fuel filter on this car and if so, where is it?
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The exhaust pipe connecting the cat and muffler is broken. However, the bolts connecting them are so rusted that look like one piece. Any tips on removing them off? I am afraid that PB blaster won't work in this case. I am thinking of drill them through, but afraid of damaging the cat.
BTW, my car's fuel tank has some leak. I can smell the gas. Is it safe to use a torch to remove freezing bolts?
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I have a 98 honda crv. I live in Las Vegas and when the temp outside is over 100, like today, there are terrible strong fumes like strong dry cleaning fluid in the front right area of the car. This starts after the AC has been running for about 10-15 minutes. If you run the car longer than this, the fumes get worse inside the car, nauseating. I have had a mechanic tell me to replace the gas cap, but this did not work. This happens when the gas tank is empty or full or in between.
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I've noticed that my REAR BRAKE DISCS don't get warm (let alone HOT) to the touch after some seriously hard braking.
Obviously the front brake discs are proper hot, you wouldn't need to touch them to work that one out, just a quick splash of water on them would show you that..
But the REAR discs on my R32, I can touch them with my hand/finger, and they don't even feel remotely warm after some hardcore brake stops.
So I'm starting to think that my brakes aren't doing anything at all on the rear.
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One car, which I have used a lot recently, had the check engine light come on yesterday, it was on all day, morning and evening, today it is off. I asked the person who had it last; he said it was not on. He did mention he filled it with premium, and I usually use the cheep stuff. Could this have just been some sort of adjustment to the new gas? Should I be concerned still? Or should I just let it go since the light is now off? I was going to try and go to a mechanic next week, but would prefer not to as I would have to take vacation time to do so. While cheaper, the maintenance and time-off involved is the down side to my companies program. Do I check it out? Or let it go? It's a 2007 Honda Accord Fleet Edition with 30,000 miles.
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I have a 1992 Honda Accord EX 5speed the car has 185k miles runs great but every time I fire up the car I run it for like a mile, if that, and the surging begins, it won't go over 2k rpm so when that happens I pull over for about a minute or two and then the car drives normal again. I'm still working on the problem finding and fixing little glitches here and there...
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My R32 is ~5700 miles and today I realized that Front brake discs wear out differently. Left one is OK but right one is scratched more deep and different than the left one. So they are not equal.
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