Honda - Accord :: Ambiguous Starting / Little Crank In First 2 Attempts
Feb 9, 2013
I have Honda Accord 2003 with 114000 miles on it. All of a sudden it started acting goofy while starting. It didn't start for first few attempts, there was little crank in first 2 attempts. After 3 attempts, I waited for 1 minute and started and it started immediately,just like a new car. This behavior only happens if it gets cold (Florida weather cold) or I let the car sit for 3 days. I left my car at the dealership 3 or 4 times. They couldn't replicate the issue.
I changed the sparked plugs and got my fuel injectors cleaned and also replaced a gas pressure pump. I even got it towed and once car got at the store it started on first attempt. I asked them to change the air filter. Since then its working fine but during start up when I turn the key to start, it feels like car struggles to start but it always start on first attempts. Dash lights, Radio, Wiper and everything works fine on ignition.
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Just got a new battery for my 2002 Honda Odyssey on Friday. I did not drive the car Saturday or Sunday, Monday morning it faintly sounded like it would start but then would start clicking. After several attempts it started. I drove about 3 miles to drop my kids off at school and it started right up when I left the school. Should I take it back to where I got my battery or will it be fine if I don't let it sit for days without starting?
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I've got a 2004 V4 Honda Accord. For the past few weeks I've been having problems starting it. The engine cranks at first, but won't turn over and then the cranking slows and stops--over the course of a few seconds. If I let it sit for a second and try it again it will start on the 2nd or 3rd or 4th attempt. But then some days it starts without any problems at all.
It's very well-maintained, and I just recently splurged for one of those overpriced maintenance schedules from the dealership (though didn't mention this problem to them because I don't trust them). Hoses, lines, fuel connections etc. were all inspected. I took it to my local mechanic yesterday and of course it didn't have any trouble starting while I was there. The battery and starter tested fine, so he was at a loss.
Now it just occurred to me that the only thing that wasn't checked were the spark plugs, so of course that's my suspicion--and they are due for a change. Does this problem sound like it could be spark plugs?
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I have a 97 accord that i am having issues with. When I turn the key it does not crank luckily it is manual tranny so i jump start it. the battery is good i also put new terminals thinking those were the issue but still having problems.
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2000 Honda Accord V6 EX Coupe
I change the oil regularly in this car and I replaced the battery in August 2014. I’d never had a problem with this car until back in June 2015 on a very hot day when I went to start it and the engine would not start. It was cranking and cranking and the starter was smooth, there were no knocks or anything out of the ordinary, the car just wouldn’t start. I started checking various things on the car, not really knowing what to do. After around 30 minutes I tried to start the car and it started up and ran completely fine. I didn’t change anything or mess with anything on the car. It just started.
This happened around twice a month until September and then I didn’t have the problem for a couple of months. It’s now December 2015, and the problem has returned. But now it is more common and happens almost every time I try to start the engine. But so far, it always starts if I wait 30 minutes or maybe a bit longer.
Important info:
I work from home and drive this car twice a week at the most. It sits for days at a time without being started. But this has been the case for the past 4 years and this probelm didn’t start happening until June 2015.
There is no movement on the tachometer when the car cranks but won’t start. The green key light doesn’t constantly blink when they key is turned. It blinks a few times then stops blinking. The check engine light isn’t on and there are no other lights on.
When the car runs, it runs smoothly and I’ve never had a problem with it cutting off or acting strange. Once the car starts and I drive it for even around 5 minutes, I can turn it off and then start it again immediately without a problem. I’ve never tried to start the car, then immediatley turn it off, then start it again so I don’t know if it would start in that situation.
It’s been kind of warm for this time of year where I live (North Carolina). It’s been around 70 degrees outside this week.
I removed the cover over the fuel pump in the trunk. I don’t think there’s any sound coming from the fuel pump when I turn the key on. I can’t hear it priming (if that’s the correct term). But when I let the car sit for 30 minutes and turn the key to on, I can’t hear anything then either, and the car still starts right up.
I took the car to a garage, but the car was starting then. I let it sit there for around two hours maybe three and went back, but the car started right up, so the mechanic told me he couldn’t do anything if the car was starting. I mean he said he would try some stuff, but he seemed kind of stumped himself. I didn’t want to start paying him money to just “try some stuff.” But I might have to do that.
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My 2000 honda accord v6 wont start (150,000 miles). It feels like its cranking over just wont go anywhere from there. So it doesn't seem like an starter issue or battery issue. It has done this to me in the past a couple of times but after letting it sit there for a bit it started back up. The weather hasn't been an issue on the times it wanted to start or not start. I know a oil change is due and
The EGR valve needs to be cleaned/replaced but could those things make my car from not starting? When i put the key in the car and turn it to the II, the Maintenance required light comes on and the light for the key just keeps blinking.
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I have a 1996 honda accord. I recently took it into a shop because it wouldn't start and was leaking oil. They replaced the battery cable and told me I needed an axle. I then have an oil leak, and my car will still not start. I take it back, ok, they said I need an oil pan. I get the oil pan and had to take the car back 2 more times because it was still leaking oil.
The one time they put on a gasket and the next an oil drain plug. Two days later I get home and my oil light is on. There is oil all over my driveway and it is leaking everywhere. Bigger than any previous leak. They pay to have my car towed to the shop and call me the next day to say the seal fell out and this is a common problem with the 96 accords. I need a timing belt kit. They told me there was no way to notice this oil leaking from this component. Is this an accurate depiction, or am I getting the run around?
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I have a 2001 Honda Accord (LX SEDAN 4 DOOR, 4 CYL). Am a bit paranoid after reading online about all the transmission problems people have with this car. The other day when I was starting up from the stop light it had a moment where I was stepping on the gas and it felt like I was in neutral-- not going anywhere. This is the only time it happened and it was only for a few seconds.
Wondering if you think this is the sign of an impending transmission failure or whether it just needs some kind of maintenance?
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So ive been having a problem with my 2004 Honda Accord. It on occasion doesn't start. I'm talking about once a month I run into this problem. When I do have this problem, I turn the key and it cranks but doesn't start. At the end of the crank I get a scratching noise. My alternator, spark plugs and battery are all fairly new (4 months old) and oem. I'm thinking it's the fuel pump failing.
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Last summer and this summer I have had a hard time starting my car when it is hot and humid out. In the winter or on cooler days it starts right up, but on hot and humid days I have to crank on it for a while before it will fire up. Sometimes it will start up right away on these days but die immediately, then I am stuck sweating my butt off in a hot car while I crank on it to start.
What this might be? The Honda dealer was of no support, they tried to sell me a new starter and battery (it is turning so I know they are not the culprits.) When I finally got someone at the dealer to listen to me, he suggested a fuel relay, a sensor,r something else I can't recall. But in the end he said they would just be changing out all of these until one works, at my expense.
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Car ran great prior to sitting for 4 months. Tried to jump it and it wouldn't turn over, so i figure the battery was dead. I replaced the batter with a new one, had fresh fuel added.
I then thought perhaps it might be the started, so I removed it and had it tested and it passed (it's working). Car still wont crank. I turn the key and there is nothing not a sound, except the fuel pump. No crank nor click? Not sure where to go from here?
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I have a NEW (purchased May 18th) 2012 Honda Accord. After starting the car there is a small vibration at 16-18 mph which I feel slightly in the gas pedal. A week ago, it started making a slight click when the car reaches 30 mph. This happens only when the first time it reaches these speeds when the car is started. Once started, I can stop and start (without turning off the car) as many times as I need without the sound. However, if I turn the car off and back on, the sounds happens again.
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My 2005 Honda Accord EX V6 with 118,000 miles cranks a bit too long. The issue was due to corroded battery terminals. I cleaned the positive terminal of its snow but it seemed to be the same. Yesterday I also cleaned the negative side. It starts better, but I had hoped that after a day of driving, it would have returned to normal. How long should I drive it before I pull the battery and get it tested? There seems to be plenty of cranking going on. It just hesitates and eventually starts. I drove about 40 minutes to work this morning and the same coming home, all on the highway. If I restart shortly after shutting down, it starts just as quickly as it used to.
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I have a 2005 Honda Accord 4 Dr. When I accelerate starting at 60 mph to about 70 mph, it seems as though my tire is vibrating yet after 70 mph everything seems to be ok. I feel like it's coming from the back, but can't really tell. I've replaced my tires, balanced them, rotated them, balanced them again, even had my front axle replaced because the mechanic thought the axle was the problem. Yet my issue still persists.
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I have a 2001 Accord coupe with 148K on it. This car is very well maintained as we perform all services and oil changes on time. During the past 2 months, the car has not wanted to start 5 times. When this started happening the car would crank quickly, strong battery, and would fire after the fourth or fifth attempt. The last 2 times the car would not start. I came back later and it cranked right up.
Yesterday I drove the car in the early morning and parked it all day. When I came back around 4 it would not start. I cranked it repeatedly about 6 - 8 times, not joy... So I came back this morning and it cranked right up. The car drives very smoothly with good power and no missing ignition. We had this in the shop last week and they found nothing wrong but cleaned the throttle body and replaced the plugs.
We can't use this car now for anything other than local trips to the store until the issue is resolved. My wife thinks it has something to do with sitting in the warm sun, although we live in Maine and it doesn't get hot like down south. Looks like that is the only trend we can see at present.
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My 1999 Honda Accord is making a whirring noise sometimes. It happens occasionally, now more frequently than last month. It sometimes happens when I start the engine, but am still in Park. Mostly it happens when I'm actually driving. both slowly on back roads and fast on the highway. What would cause this?
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I have a 2000 dodge ram van 2500. When I try to start it, it takes several attempts before it fire. When it does start it sputters for a few moments then die.It seems like it is struggling to get either air or gas.
On one occasion since this started happening I was able to turn the key one time and it fired right up and ran smooth as could be.
On two other occasions I was able to get it to start and run smoothly after many tries and a lot of sputtering.
I was able to pull four codes:
p0443 evap emission control system purge valve c faultp0743 torque converter circuit electricalp0753 shift solenoid a circuit electricalp1765 governor pressure not in range
After read up on these codes online it seems as if the all have solenoids and vacuum related to them.
Before I start the annoying tasks of trying to find a vacuum leak I can not hear or tracing down a bad ground which I will probably never find.
One other note, the air filter is good and it might be my imagination but the exhaust smells really rich.
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So I just bought this 08 civic LX (110k miles). After a few days of flawless driving, we noticed a couple wires NOT connected that were coming from the hood opener-sensor thing. Plugged them together and noticed no difference in the car until I let the car sit for about 6 hours then thats when the trouble started. Tried starting the car and the engine had trouble cranking then would stop. Pulled the key out and tried a couple more times and finally the engine started. The next day I had to do the same thing to get the car to start and now 2 days later the car wont even crank. No ticking, no cranking- nothing. Battery date is 10/14 so its coming up on 2 years old. When I turn the car to "On", everything works (stereo, lights, headlights, dashboard lights- everything). You would notice no difference until you tried starting the car.
I haven't gotten to it yet but I haven't tried cleaning the battery connections. Just looking at them I cannot notice any problems or visual corrosion. Im thinking that because I plugged those wires from the hood-sensor-thing, its a bad sensor and drew current from the battery while the car was off.
If this was the case then jumping the car would probably fix it but nope, not my lucky day. Jumping the car didn't work at all and before I start checking fuses and connections, what the problem could be.
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My 1998 Honda accord coupe 3.0 has 225 k miles has a new sending unit, fuel pump, main relay, ignition switch, and spark plugs. I cannot find the source of why my car will not start I replaced these things on my car due to car didn't want start. Then it was fine every time I would turn a corner or drive it rpms would drop like I was running out of gas then it would die now it will not start.
I have checked all fuses. I have read in forums that this could take a lot of money to fix only because no one knows the source of why its not starting. I am a disabled female that is just trying too have a running vehicle and can't figure out why it won't start. It has a new battery but won't hold a charge. Had charged it from my friends car for 25 minutes it gave it enough juice to put it in neutral and push it in the driveway with another car.
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My 1988 Volvo 240 DL often has trouble starting in the rain (I've usually managed to get it going, but it often takes several attempts). I have been told by a friend that he had the same problem with his '86 and replaced the distributor cap, solving the issue. My mechanic told me that he would need to replace the cap and wires. He said that replacing the cap alone won't solve the problem, and would just lead the cap to wear out faster. He told me this without looking at the car. Just want to know if he's right--do I need to replace the cap and wires? Is it possible that changing the cap alone will solve the problem? Could I change the cap and see if there's still a problem, or is it better to just do it all at once?
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2000 EX with 7.3 diesel 234000 miles. After several attempts to start the battery is to low and I get code 1670. I can jump it with a charger and it starts. Checked the battery cables and pulled the starter and had it checked at Advance. All checked ok. Don't know where to go from here. I think the 1670 code points to the IDM.
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