I had the master cylinder change on a 92 honda accord EX the calibers change and, the master cylinder I have been told does not have any way to adjust the stem on the master cylinder so the brake man ajusted the brake pedal but the brakes are still freezing up. It is an automatic
View 3 RepliesI have a 95 Accord EX, 4 cylinder with ABS. The brake pedal goes to the floor about once a month, all times of year (I'm in Minnesota). I had the brakes bled last summer, but that didn't work. The ABS light has been on for probably 10 years. When I talked to my mechanic he said the ABS system, even though it's not working, could be a cause of the problem because fluid is still traveling through that system. He said most likely a master cylinder, but no guarantees. He said it could also be one of the brake lines. About 120k miles on it. What are the odds that it's the master cylinder?
View 2 RepliesIt only burns oil when the ambient temp is above freezing. Why would this be?
View 7 RepliesThe CD player (6 disk changer) in my 2006 Honda Accord will not play disks above freezing temperatures. (To clarify, it is the model without the GPS.) I say temperatures because the playable cut-off usually fluctuates between 30 and 36 degrees F. Below that temperature, the disk plays fine.
Above that temperature, I will be lucky to get 15 seconds of play before the disk begins to skip and eventually error out. Additionally, the disk will skip and error after the cabin warms up. Over the last 9 or so months, this has been consistent behavior.
I first noticed this last summer in very hot weather when a disk began to skip. Since then, there is only one disk that plays reliably in any weather.
I have a problem about which the mechanics I have asked are baffled: In cool, cloudy or sunny weather, my brakes and break-pedal pressure are fine (the mechanics have said I have good fluid, brakes, etc.--they can find nothing wrong--and, of course, it never has a problem when they test-drive my car). However, when the weather warms up and it's a bright, sunny day, my brake pedal loses pressure and slowly sinks to the floor--a dangerous thing at intersections. There's slight pressure if I pump the pedal constantly while at a light; but, without pumping, the pedal immediately sinks to the floor.
This is a real problem, because this problem always occurs right when mechanics are not near or not open for business--and none I've talked to have ever heard of such a problem. The bright, hot sun's affect seems to be key, because if it's 80 degrees outside and cloudy, I don't have the issue--but, then again, I don't usually run the air conditioner if it's cloudy. As such, I'm not positive; but, this may be tied to when I turn on the air conditioner--as though the two share the same vacuum system.
Ok, did an intake manifold cleaning on my 99 Accord the other day, and now I have problems...
Long story short, some time ago my car started to have a very rough idle. Took me awhile to find the problem. Turned out the air hose, between the filter and throttle body, had developed a big hole on the underside. So I replaced it and while I was at it used some throttle body cleaner, spraying into the intake manifold chamber. Lot of junk blew out the tailpipe. The car ran much better, but the idle could still be a little rough. I ran it that way for awhile, and finally the other day decided there was probably still some junk in there and it was time to really clean it out. So I took ff the throttle body and intake manifold housing. There was a lot of junk in there! The small intake on the passenger side was completely clogged shut. (I understand this isn't surprising on these cars.) I used a bunch of rags and 2 cans of Valvoline throttle body cleaner and a lot of elbow grease and cleaned it out. I was thinking to myself that whatever I didn't get with the rags flushed through OK, but I didn't want to take the whole intake manifold out.
So I put it all back together. (I took a video before I started, so I'm pretty sure it's all back together right.) But now I have problems. The car starts. It idles fine mostly, but can be a bit rough. But the trouble starts when I put the pedal down. If I do it in Park, well, if I push it quick the engine just dies. If I push it slow, the engine revs then quits, revs and quits, over and over. Similar if it's in gear. If I push it hard, the engine stalls. If I push it gentle, it revs up, but chugs along a bit.
I've run some seafoam through it, thinking it was clogged up with all that junk, and sure enough, lots of smoke comes out, but nothing is improving so far. What have I done wrong?
The red dash light for my parking brake stays on until I jiggle the brake handle, then it stays off until I re-start the car the next time and then it goes on again. Brake fluid is fine.
Appears to be a faulty switch attached to the handle. How do I fix this? Is it a major job? [it's a 1998 Honda Accord]
Every morning when i leave to work my brake light begins to turn on, when i go over a bump or brake it shuts off. But only happens in the mornings when my car sits over night or long periods of time . What is the cause of this and how can it be replaced?
View 7 RepliesI have a NEW (purchased May 18th) 2012 Honda Accord. After starting the car there is a small vibration at 16-18 mph which I feel slightly in the gas pedal. A week ago, it started making a slight click when the car reaches 30 mph. This happens only when the first time it reaches these speeds when the car is started. Once started, I can stop and start (without turning off the car) as many times as I need without the sound. However, if I turn the car off and back on, the sounds happens again.
View 7 RepliesHad my original clutch replaced by mechanic. Had 200K on it. Car clutch petal vibrates badly when bringing clutch pedal out after shifting. Mechanic states it has to do with motor mounts that were affected when changing clutch or the clutch takes time to seal and stop vibrating in the next 500 miles. I have warranty for 12 months and 12,000 miles. Which I had no problem of vibration before having clutch replaced? What is the problem and how to proceed.
View 3 RepliesI have a 97 Honda Accord LX stick shift that's giving me some trouble. I bought it at 146k miles and now it has 151k miles.
-- Here is the symptom --I feel that I have to lift the clutch pedal higher to fully engage the clutch after driving for 20 mins. The problem showed up several times and one time the clutch was somewhat slipping and I had to park it somewhere and got towed. After sitting there for several hours or overnight, the problem would gone -- and it could show up again at some time. The strange thing is that I am not always getting this problem. The car could sometimes run over 1 hour without any unusual feeling on the clutch.
I also noticed that when the clutch is not working well, the clutch pedal is stiffer than usual (I never had problem disengaging the clutch though). When I push the pedal to the very bottom on the floor, I can hear some noise and the car even had a tendency to move a little when in 1st gear.
Once I opened the hood and looked at the position of the release fork when the car was cold. After driving about 20 minutes, I looked again and found that the fork moved a little bit away from the slave cylinder as if someone was pushing the clutch pedal gently! I think that's why the point at which the clutch engages is becoming higher. But I don't know what is the real problem. I replaced the slave cylinder last week but it did not solve the issue. Is the clutch bad again or the cylinder?
Here is the repair history --About a year and a half ago I found the clutch slipping. So I had the clutch replaced and the flywheel resurfaced by a mechanic. It was good for a few months until that problem rose again. Then I went to an auto shop. They told me that the slave cylinder was the real problem and got it replaced. I was good for about a year. Now I am still getting the trouble above.
We have a 2004 Honda Accord V6 with 178,000 miles and the car is giving us some issues. We can drive the car for 10-15 minutes with no issues. Then when we push on the gas pedal, the car will not go any farther and the engine just revs. If we turn the car off and restart it, the car will continue to drive. There are no check engine lights on the car. Could these be a transmission issue?
View 5 RepliesIts just around freezing, and damp in Ontario and suddenly, in the mornings my Accord won't start. The battery is fairly new, the engine cranks and seems to almost catch but never quite. Yesterday, i came home at lunch and it started right up (though i didn't drive it), then this morning it wouldn't start, and it still won't. The fuel pump comes on when you turn the key to II.
I had the main relay problem on an older Accord but that doesn't seem to be the case for the 98 to 02 models. It seems like the most common problems are with the ignition switch (recall...but it causes random stalling while driving). The other common one is with the coil pack/ igniter. I'm not sure how to really check these, other than by replacing them. I haven't checked for spark yet but i am about to. How to measure the resistance of the coil (and what it should be?). What about the wires?
Is there an easy to access fuel filter on this car and if so, where is it?
I have had a thumping brake pedal for a bit and knew that I had a warped rotor. I suspected the right rear by the wear pattern of the disk. I purchased the parts and started the job to see...what the heck is the cable and assembly on the outside of the caliper? After FINALLY getting the bolts off...not a great placement of this extra assembly...I pretty much had to beat the caliper off the rotor. I was afraid of this...I will have to replace the caliper as it appears to be seized.
Now... what I would assume is the parking brake assembly? I have read some great info on the normal replacement of the pads/rotor...but what do I need to know about the cable and arms? Do I need to release the tension somehow? Does it need to be rigged? Is there a best way to do this?
My clutch peddle made a slight "snap" sound last night and now it is very difficult to get the car to engage in a gear while sitting still, while moving it does ok, but not nearly as smooth as it should be. The other odd occurrence is that while the motor is running and the car is not moving, you can't shift any gears at all, but as soon as you cut the motor, all 5 gears and reverse are easily accessible. Why the sound at the peddle and the trouble in the gear shift mechanism? I am only an advanced beginner with car repair, but I think think this is really bad...
View 1 RepliesI have a 2007 Honda Accord. A few days ago I backed the car up to the front of the house, and in the reflection of the windows and glass I noticed my brake lights were very dim looking. The brake lights on this model/year are LED brake lights that are Honda genuine brake lights. After I noticed, I put the car in park and tapped the brake lights several times and noticed they got very bright, then very dim. Then bright, and dim again and so on and so forth. They also flickered on and off at one point while my foot was planted firmly on the brake pedal. Is this a popular known issue with these brake lights? What can I do to correct this? Took the car back to the dealership and they said there was nothing wrong. (Of course)
View 19 RepliesMy clutch peddle made a slight "snap" sound last night and now it is very difficult to get the car to engage in a gear while sitting still, while moving it does ok, but not nearly as smooth as it should be. The other odd occurrence is that while the motor is running and the car is not moving, you can't shift any gears at all, but as soon as you cut the motor, all 5 gears and reverse are easily accessible. Why the sound at the peddle and the trouble in the gear shift mechanism? I am only an advanced beginner with car repair, but I think think this is really bad... 2007 Honda Accord Manual Transmission
View 8 RepliesI have a 97 Honda Accord, 147k miles. Is it a good idea to engage the emergency brake one or two clicks while having to brake while going downhill (while stopping at a stop sign or traffic light)? I feel that without using the e-brake, the front brakes are being overworked.
View 19 RepliesHave 1995 Honda Accord with apx. 231,000 miles and needs all new break lines under the car. Honda Dealer states 12 hours of labor at $100 per hour. Should I go elsewhere or sell the car for $600 to the parts guy at the dealership offering to buy it since I wont pay the cost at this point to fix the car? Gas lines are all fine underneath by the way - I asked them to look since they could go next I would assume.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2011 honda accord and removed the brake fluid cap just fine to check it, in about October but I went to check it again today and the cap won't come off, I wonder if it's because of the cold weather? (36 f) It came off so easy last time I don't remember which way to turn it, and if I should press up or down when turning. The cap will rotate about a quarter inch either way, then won't go any farther. It hits these little white plastic pieces stopping it from going farther.
Here is a picture of what it looks like [URL] .... if you try to turn it left it gets caught on that little white plastic piece on the bottom and there is a similar piece stopping it from going right.
Last night we noticed that the main brake lights (not the CHMSL) on our 1997 Accord sedan wouldn't turn off. I tapped and released the brake pedal to make sure it wasn't stuck. Changed gears through drive, reverse, and park. The lights were continually lit, even after the car was shut off. I didn't want them to drain the battery, so I removed the bulbs (boy, were they HOT) and the car is now grounded temporarily.When I pulled the bulbs, I saw a warning light on the dash come on. I red bar near the bottom of the (non-working) speedometer that says Brake Lights or something. I think it's short hand for "Hey you idiot! Put the brake light bulbs back in!"So at least it knows the circuit is broken. So, the question is, what caused this,and how do I fix it without taking it to the dealership?
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