I bought a new Honda Accord v6. I drove it off the lot with 40 miles on it. The acceleration was fine when I bought it.
It now has over 500 miles on it, and the acceleration is terrible. When I'm at a stop light and the light turns green, it takes forever to get to 40mph unless I floor it. Honda Civics pass me at every light.
What could be the problem? I'm very concerned.
I drive an '04 Passat and I've recently noticed that my AC is not functioning properly. It takes forever to get somewhat cold and the air flow seems diminished. I used to get freezing cold within minutes after setting it to an air flow of "1" and putting it at the coldest setting. Now, I can drive home and sweat for the whole 30 minute trip with it set to an air flow setting of "4" at the coldest setting. It's not as bad in the morning because it's much cooler, but it's killing me in the afternoon/evening.
View 5 RepliesI came off the turnpike the other day stopped at a light and my car, 2006 Hyundai Elantra 175000 miles, started rolling backwards. I put my foot on the gas and there was no movement. Put the car and park and it wouldn't start. I pushed it into a gas station and the attendant (attendant, not mechanic there was no service station) changed the oil and added some coolant. The car then started up fine and I was able to drive a quarter mile to work. When I was driving home I immediately noticed that there was a change in acceleration. It takes forever for the car to speed up... Pedal to the floor and it is lagging greatly. It seems to be going up to 4500 rpms just to reach 40 mphs at a slow pace. Once the car gets up to 60 mph the rpms drop to normal. I haven't gone faster than 60 mph in it since this happened, but it seems to handle fine at that speed. The issue is getting up to that speed. I don't know if it is related, but the air conditioning is very weak since all this happened. I have to turn it off when I'm accelerating now. I've been planning on buying a new car soon, but I want this one to last just a little while longer.
View 7 RepliesI just got this new truck with work and when I started in the mornings and let it run for 10 to 15 minutes like I used to with the 6.2 f250 I had it's still cold in the truck. Need making this thing warm up faster?
View 14 RepliesI have a 98 GS4 and a 04 RX330 and one major issue I have with the RX, is the poor downshift response when slowing down, to say 5-10 mph and give it gas, the transmission takes FOREVER to realize I want first gear. If I am giving it 50% throttle at 5-10 mph after slowing and needing to get a move on, the throttle seems like it is there, but the transmission takes an eternity to realize "oh, you want first? hang on while I think about it", then it grabs first and LURCHES forward, giving everyone a very uncomfortable jerk.
My GS however, when down to those speeds is always spot on the right gear. Yeah, I know its comparing a GS to a RX, but wouldn't you think that Lexus would figure that one out?
Is the 04 worse than 05 or 06? Can I use an 05 or 06 trans controller and get some improved transmission response?
You can tell by the lurch, the throttle is responding to the driver's throttle pedal input, but the transmission isn't figuring it out till way too late. I don't get the lurch like at slower speeds and higher throttle input, but it sure makes for a poorly driving car.
I see the same problem when taking slower corners, get it down to 10-20 mph for a corner and the transmission won't downshift till AFTER the apex of the corner, despite what throttle pedal is pressed.
1999 Accord, 110k mi., stalls while driving or stopped a few times a week, then takes a couple of minutes to turn over. Mechanic replaced or cleaned main relay, fuel pump, and ignition module. Could sell it but recently rebuilt tranny and replaced timing belt. Mechanic is stumped.
View 7 RepliesI've had my 2013 Prius since new. Basically it feels like my car is over-exhausting itself. When I go to take off, the car jerks like I slammed my pedal to the floor. If I'm on the highway and need to speed up, it sounds like it's reving really high and really long, and when I take my foot off the gas, there's about a 5 second delay before the car actually starts to decelerate. I don't even feel comfortable on the highway when it's acting up because my car kinda just accelerates suddenly and then takes forever to stop even when my foot isn't on the gas anymore.
This problem happened last summer, and when I took it to the dealership it stopped before I could show them. It started getting cold outside not long after so this didn't happen again. Now that it's hot out, my car is doing it again. And it's fine as long as the sun has gone down for the night. I thought it was because my a/c was on, but I can turn it off and it doesn't make a difference on the way the car is driving. I get regular maintenance done, all my filters are clean, and there's nothing I can really think could be wrong.
I own a Honda Accrod 2005 V6.
I don't know much about cars, but for the past year my clutch gradually started to just stick to the floor. I'm now at 80,000 miles, the clutch doesn't slip, and it for the most part drives fine with exception to this sticking. Sometimes when this happens, the stick shift stays in gear and I can't get the stick out of gear until the clutch has been lifted up and pushed back in. It is def getting worse. I have brought it to several mechanics.
I have been told by Honda that I need to replace the clutch set (clutch disc, pressure plate, and throw out bearing) and the clutch master and slave cylinder.After another mechanics look over, they also did confirm the same as honda but stated to get a new cut flywheel.
But after several other mechanics look-overs, they told me that the clutch is fine, so they recommended me to get the master and slave cylinders replaced.
So, trying to save money a mechanic told me to take one step at a time and see how it goes. He said he will bleed the slave and master cylinders and see if it is just an air pocket. That didn't work, so I trusted him and he replaced the master cylinder, but the problem still exists. He said the next thing to do is maybe to do a new slave cylinder. I'm now contemplating.
Another mechanic took a look after the work was done and said there is no leaking.
I've had a wet passenger side rear floor in my Accord for the past year now when I run the A/C. Two mechanics including a Honda dealership have told me the A/C drain is not plugged. One of them ran compressed air through the drain and it seemed to be better for about a week and then started again. How to investigate the matter further. The floor does not smell like coolant. It just feels like and smells like water.
View 8 RepliesWe have a 2000 Honda Accord, standard shift, with 105,000 miles on it. The clutch has been sticking at the floor on random occasions (especially on hot days). Our mechanic (Honda Dealer) has not been able to correct the problem. Last summer he changed the clutch fluid and said that looked like the problem as it was vey dark. It corrected the problem for a few months but now it is happening again in the cold weather. It can happen at any time you depress the clutch, even while shifting when moving. Of course, then it is very difficult to get the car in gear. Our only solution is to manually pick up the clutch with hand or foot and this is dangerous in traffic.
View 4 RepliesI have a 95 Accord EX, 4 cylinder with ABS. The brake pedal goes to the floor about once a month, all times of year (I'm in Minnesota). I had the brakes bled last summer, but that didn't work. The ABS light has been on for probably 10 years. When I talked to my mechanic he said the ABS system, even though it's not working, could be a cause of the problem because fluid is still traveling through that system. He said most likely a master cylinder, but no guarantees. He said it could also be one of the brake lines. About 120k miles on it. What are the odds that it's the master cylinder?
View 2 RepliesSo the first issue is, if the vehicle is cold (regardless of temp outside) it takes forever to start it. It cranks and cranks and cranks and after a couple seconds of cranking I stop, wait a second, then try again. Usually it takes two sometimes three tries to start it. The guy who I bought it off of said it has newer glow plugs (last year I believe) and also I have replaced the batteries. Once its warmed up it does not do this at all.
Secondly and also something that just recently started happening, my water in fuel light keeps kicking in. I drained the water out of the water catcher reservoir under the truck multiple times and the first time water actually came out but every time after that simply diesel fuel comes out. I added a bottle of water remover to the fuel as well and ran it down to a quarter tank. Then filled the truck up completely, added two more bottles of water remover. The light still comes on. I noticed it only comes on when I am going up or down a fill. When I am driving on flat ground it does not kick on.
Honda Accord 1994 EX
Problem: over past two weeks (around 200 miles) car's acceleration became less and less effective. Need to rev car to higher and higher rpms to accelerate and shift into higher gears. Now it's hard to get up a hill, in 2nd gear at 5000 rpm.
I don't have a compression tester.
-Car starts fine. No pings.
-Exhaust blows fine and no smoke.
-Checked for vacuum hose leaks, none at all.
-Spark plugs look fine, there's no oil in spark plug wells.
-No check engine lights. '
-Oil on oil stick normal color.
But ...
-Recently coolant ran low. But engine temperature never shot up.
-Recently (over 2 weeks) oil went from full to near empty. Oil light didn't go on.Lights on my dash work (abs, brake, etc.)
Given loss of coolant and oil, I though it would be blown gasket. But spark plugs and wells look clean, and there's nothing whitish in oil. Maybe coolant and oil loss are due to running car harder to accelerate.
-If cat was clogged, would exhaust blow well? If I drill hole in front of cat, will it run normal? (don't worry, I'll get it changed, or fix it.)
-If fuel pump the problem, wouldn't I hear it on start up?
-If battery and/or battery cable bad, wouldn't car have trouble starting and revving up?
I have a 1991 Accord LX wagon that is leaking coolant. I figured it out b/c there is a green fluid pooled on the floor behind the passenger's seat. Why would coolant be leaking there? I bought this car in February and have been nickeled and dimed ever since. I want to sell it and get something else but I want to get the coolant problem fixed first and need to know if this is going to be expensive.
View 5 RepliesMy 2007, Honda Accord, 6-speed manual, 6 cylinder EX Coupe vibrates when I accelerate between the speeds of approx. 50-65 mph and then smooths out above that speed. Slightly higher when going uphill.
It only happens when accelerating and not if I'm just cruising without applying the power. My wheels and tires have been checked for balance and are in good shape. No bent rims, tires are in balance.
Alright, car's overheating, but generally not at under ~55mph or so. When I hit the highway and accelerate, the thermostat climbs and hovers 3/4s of the way to red. But only sometimes. Sometimes, often when I'm going down a hill, it will swings down to normal. Once it's gotten hot, if I take it off the highway and am idling or driving in the 15-40mph range, the temp gauge will spike. But only sometimes. Sometimes I'll hear the fans kick in while it's idling/overheating. The temperature will go back to normal, and then rise again and stay there or spike (seemingly randomly). It's never reached all the way to the red, but it toes the line. And I take the darn thing into the shop and it refuses to overheat.
I've taken the radiator reservoir out and there seems to be green fluid (antifreeze/coolant?) in the water (have flushed it repeatedly)...and over the course of several weeks, the water level itself will go down. Both fans and the thermostat have been replaced in the last 6 months. Additionally, the timing belt and serpentine belt have been replaced within 5 months, as have affected pistons.((S/N--RPMs are really....low? ~2500 @ 75mph? but don't seem to correlate w/temperature. would they effect it?)
I took it into my shop and they said "we ran all the tests and couldn't find anything wrong." Cool? I'm at a loss..
I drove my car through a puddle, and right after that, my check engine light came on and it hesitates to accelerate. What could be the problem?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2004 Honda Accord with 124,000 miles and automatic transmission. When I accelerate and the car shifts from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th at slow speeds the car vibrates a little and it seems like the transmission slips. When I accelerate quickly, it seems like its okay and when i have it in D3 it is okay also no matter whether i accelerate fast or slowly.
View 2 RepliesI just had my right drive axle replaced on my 1992 accord today at a mechanic chain store. I have notice fluid leaking/dripping from where the axle and transmission meet. What is occurring? Could it be they didn't replaced any seals or the axle is a wrong fit. Its a manual transmission by the way.
View 6 Replies[URL] ....
2004 Honda Accord LX
Engine: 2.4 L
119,400-ish miles
See above video link.
I've been having this odd sound occur while I accelerate - sort of like a grinding sound (about 7 seconds into the video). It might be a bit difficult to hear over the other sound coming from my car... It occurs a lot more frequently when it's cold, when I'm accelerating, and when I am turning while I accelerate.
Also, the more obvious noise that occurs throughout the entirety of the video just began today. It does not occur while I'm stopped and it began when I stepped on the brake a little harder than usual...
I have a 2002 honda accord I4 coupe (ULEV edition) with a peculiar problem. The problem is that the pistons are pushing down too hard on the connecting rod/crank shaft bearings (creating a banging noise when I drive or accelerate in neutral). It could be a timing issue (spark igniting too early?) but the check engine light is not on.
I have had a mechanic look at the engine and they have determined that
1) Oil pressure is normal
2) Bearing clearance is good (meets specification)
3) Cam timing is good.
4) Balance shaft clearance is good
5) Thrust clearance is good
The mechanics are not sure what is causing the problem. What else to check? Seafoam was added to the gas tank weeks before the problem surfaced. Could the car's computer be damaged?