Honda - Accord :: 2010 - Metal Rattling In Cold Weather / Oil Light Coming On
Mar 14, 2014
I have a 2010 Honda Accord that is having issues with metal rattling when there is cold weather. I believe the rattling is coming from the heat plates where the exhaust pipe starts. However, I have taken it to the Honda Dealership in San Antonio. They cannot find where the noise is coming from the car. The issue has been occurring for the last 2 years. On top of that, my oil light is coming on. I am not sure if the oil light and the heavy metal rattling are linked (properly not). I would like to get this fixed.
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My daughter owns a 1992 Honda Accord wagon, she cannot get it to start on colder days. Sometimes she goes out and runs a hair dryer over the engine, it works, but it is getting worse. Her husband says that is ridiculous to do.
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I have a 1998 Honda Accord 4 cylinder with roughly 150k miles. When the weather is cold outside the steering wheel will shake until the car warms up. I have taken the car into the shop and they checked the engine mounts, tie rods, etc and they told me that the car is fine. The tires are not unbalanced nor are they packed with dirt or debris. The vibration only occurs when the car is cold and it goes away once the car warms up. Also, the vibration will stop when I simply place a small amount of pressure on the steering wheel with my hand or knee. The vibration does not occur when I am driving at low or high speeds and it usually only occurs when I am stopped at stop signs or lights.
I have done the regular maintenance on the vehicle and I have replaced the timing belt, spark plugs/ wires, belt(s), etc, if that make a difference.
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My 2005 Accord V-6 makes a howling (actually a loud whine) when started in very cold weather (e.g., below 25 degrees). The sound goes a way after a few miles driving. It appears to come from a small "pump" looking thing at the top and on the left (facing the car) of the engine, which is attached to a pulley. My mechanic - although he did not actually hear it - says it's nothing to worry about; it's just the cold.
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So...I just took my car in last week to replace the TPS and noticed that the car is now making a weird sound when I reverse (out of parking spaces, etc). The sounds seems to be coming from the rear of the car the sound is similar to metal scraping concrete and happens intermittently. I'm wondering if this is a random coincidence or if this could be related to the recent work done on the TPS. If my brakes hadn't been completely replaced a year ago, I'd suspect it might be those. What could cause this sound?
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I have a rattling noise coming from rear passenger seat. More noticible in cold weather and over bumps.
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My 2009 Accord is making a metal on metal noise when I drive. It's not all the time, probably about 1/3 of the time or so, and only when I'm accelerating/cruising, not braking. It's very loud, and when I took it to a mechanic they just took it for a ride, didn't hear anything, and told me to come back when it's more consistent. What it could be? I'm nervous even taking it out now.
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Honda Accord 2005 ... Just bought a new used car. All seems ok, but I have two problems.
(1) when not moving, i have slop in the steering and I can hear metal on metal contact when I turn the steering wheel. I pulled the tire and with basically no force I can move the rotor back and forth by hand. what it is and how to fix it?
(2) when braking, it appears that the front left pad sticks. Pads are not excessively worn down. Can't figure out how to get to the caliper pins ( thought they might be sticking).
Could the two be related?
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Recently I started hearing a rattling/grinding metallic sound coming off the right rear while driving slowly. This sound is not reproduced when braking.At first it started while doing sharp right turns only, now its ever present while driving. I showed it to a mechanic he says rotors needs to be replaced. Is he right? 2003 Honda Accord V6....
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I read about the white smoke and I found that is normal in cold weather!! Is that true and what do you think ?
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Since December, I have had the SRS airbag light indicator come on in my 2006 Honda Accord (EX-L, 2.4 L, Automatic), but only in the morning, and only when the outside temperature has been below freezing the night before. After a few minutes when the car warms up, if I turn the car off and then back on the SRS light is gone. The rest of the day, no problem. Figuring that it was not the safest thing to drive with, I had it checked out by a repair shop that I feel comfortable with. They checked the code and said that it showed up as a faulty SRS computer, and the computer would need to be replaced. It seems crazy to me that a 2006 Accord with under 52,000 would need a new SRS unit, so I started looking online to see if I could find any info.
I saw about the SRS units in previous Accords, but it seems like they have those issues ironed out in the 2005 and 2006. I did however, see that some people have said that low voltage also could trigger the same defective code in the SRS unit, which got me thinking. The original Honda battery died and was replaced at the end of November with an AC Delco ACD 51R60 (460 CCA). My original theory was that the AC Delco battery was not cranking enough when it is cold compared to the old Honda battery, and it is triggering the SRS airbag light. I ended up having the shop switch out the new battery to an AC Delco 51R6YR (500 CCA). Unfortunately, however, it did not fix the problem. I can't get past the fact that if it was a defective SRS unit, why would it only cause a problem for the first few minutes when it is cold, and then consistently be fine after that?
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My car makes a noise like metal scraping metal when I turn left. The sound comes and goes, and is loudest when I make a left turn from a standstill. I have had my car looked at twice in the past 3 months. The first place told me a need a new rack and pinion, and the second said my tires being low was the only issue. My car will go weeks sometimes without making the noise, and then suddenly start again.
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With the temps at a all time low in the U.S. this week, my TPMS warning light has come on in my 2012 RX350. It will stay very cold for most of the week, so is it ok to drive with my warning light on.
I don't want to check my psi in the tires with a tire gauge because I was told a valve stem can freeze open in extreme cold letting the tire to go completely flat.
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I have a 2000 Honda Accord LX V6 auto with about 125k on it.It seems to me that when I'm going downhill for example - so I am not giving it gas - it feels like its running rough - sort of. It kind of feels like the brakes are being applied then released, applied then released.Now, once summer arrived and I had to start using the AC all the time, after the car was warmed up and having run for 20+ minutes, it would REALLY start running rough. I watch the tachometer and it bounces up and down. When I turn off the car for awhile like to go into the grocery store, when I come out and try to start it, it wont. It just cranks but wont catch. If I do manage to get it to catch, it stalls. I have managed to get it to catch-apply the gas and pop it in to drive and make it home, but something is obviously very wrong and I don't want to get stuck somewhere. I have a code reader and the car has not produced any codes.
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I have a 2003 Honda Accord LX with 96K miles on it. As the weather has gotten colder, my car radio is turning itself on. I walked out last week to a frigid 19 degrees here in KY to the blaring sound of my radio on in the car. There was no one in the car and no key in the ignition, rather the key was in my hand. This has continued to be a problem and occurs sporadically during the day. I have tried turning the radio on/off, keeping the volume down, but regardless, even the clock face panel turns itself on.
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I have a 2011 Prius with about 32K miles on it. I've been hearing light metal on metal grinding noise for a few days now. So I decided to take it to a stealership and they told me my ceramic pads and brake rotors both need to be replaced for all 4 wheels. I thought Prius brakes don't need to be replaced for 100K miles.
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Today, I experienced the coldest temperatures yet on my drive to work. At one point, I saw a '24F' shown as the outside temperature (although not unusual for April in Minnesota):
Expected: My gas mileage was down a bit. I was impressed it wasn't as bad as I would have expected from our 2005 Prius, though.
I should have expected: On the last 1/2 mile or so, when driving slow on the little bit of EV left while in the forced HV mode, I accidentally accelerated too much and forced on the ICE again (it had been previously on earlier in my 22 mile commute). This time, however, it was different because it didn't shut off immediately. I think the ICE had to do a second warm up. I'll have to watch that more closely next time (darn that cold weather)!
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I've saw several complaints about 2008 Honda Accord Popping at low braking speeds and start from stop only in hot weather. I've never saw a solution.
This is the other persons complaint: My Honda has a pop or clunk when braking at low speeds( below 5mph) just before coming to a stop. It will pop as I start forward again (below 5mph). It only occurs when the outside temperature is above 90-95 degrees and after driving for 10-15 minutes.
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I have an older 2001 Honda accord I4 about 160k miles on it. I recently noticed that there's a rattling sound when the car in in idle (800RPM) but it disappear when I rev it up to higher RPM or while driving. The noise can't be heard inside the cabin and can only heard outside. The noise also only appears when it is warmed (engine running for about 3 - 5 minutes after cold start). I read from other board about a loose or worn out heat shield so I went under the car and try to look for a loose of broken parts but I cant find any. I removed the cat heat shield but the problem still exist. I don't know what else to check. Car seems run normal, I don't notice any change in performance and no check engine or what so ever. I just wan't to make sure it is not something on the engine, transmission, or something that will snowball to a bigger issues. I don't know how long its been rattling but I just noticed it the other day.
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I have a problem about which the mechanics I have asked are baffled: In cool, cloudy or sunny weather, my brakes and break-pedal pressure are fine (the mechanics have said I have good fluid, brakes, etc.--they can find nothing wrong--and, of course, it never has a problem when they test-drive my car). However, when the weather warms up and it's a bright, sunny day, my brake pedal loses pressure and slowly sinks to the floor--a dangerous thing at intersections. There's slight pressure if I pump the pedal constantly while at a light; but, without pumping, the pedal immediately sinks to the floor.
This is a real problem, because this problem always occurs right when mechanics are not near or not open for business--and none I've talked to have ever heard of such a problem. The bright, hot sun's affect seems to be key, because if it's 80 degrees outside and cloudy, I don't have the issue--but, then again, I don't usually run the air conditioner if it's cloudy. As such, I'm not positive; but, this may be tied to when I turn on the air conditioner--as though the two share the same vacuum system.
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Was driving 97 honda Accord 4 cylinder today when it made a loud rattling noise, took it in to advanced auto parts to see if they could give me a hint to what was wrong, as I was showing the employee the noise got progressively worse and he told me the connecting rod was loose and I could make it home if I went under 35 he mentioned something about tightening two bolts but having to drop the oil pan to get to it, as I was driving home the noise eventually turned into a clunk and the car died, when I try to start it up you can hear the engine turn but there is nothing after that, don't know much about cars but what is the process I need to go through to replace this connecting rod myself and how to get the car to start again.
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