Honda - Accord :: 2009 - Audio System Does Not Read MP3 CDs
Jun 6, 2011
I have a Honda Accord 2009 sedan. The CD player reads audio CDs well; however, it does not read MP3 CDs that I burned using iTunes. I have tried multiple CDs but had no success. What should I do? Should I take it to dealer? I am just worried that they are gonna charge me for diagnosis.
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I downloaded several mp3 files from Amazon and loaded them on a flash drive to use in my 2011 ES350 audio system. The flash drive is plugged into the USB port in the center console, and CD/Aux is selected to play the files. The weird thing is that although most files play, there is a few don't. There are folders for the non-playing music files, and a file is indicated in each, but after a short display of the folder/file number, the player skips on to the next folder without playing anything. Is there something I can do to get the "silent" files to play?
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The navigation in my 2007 F-150 is acting up, saying it cannot read the DVD, and that it might be dirty, remove and clean, etc. etc.
Also, and perhaps an equally concerning problem is that it won't spit the DVD out. It will get so I can barely see the disc through the mouth of the system, but not enough to grab it. I'm going to try and grab the disc as delicately as I can with a small set of grooveless needle nose pliers, but haven't had a chance to try that yet.
It was doing this a while ago, but seemed to fix itself and hasn't acted up for I'd say 2 months now.
For those that have had this happen before, is it as simple as cleaning the disc, or is this a sign of a larger (possible system failure) problem?? Also I should mention that I still have the original map DVD in the truck, and I think I've taken it out once in the year and a half I've had the truck, and that was just in learning how it came out.
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So, i have a 1996 honda accord, i just had a new alternator put on yesterday. Well before then, when the old one was still in the car, my car would heat up while i was sitting still and it was drinking coolant and water like crazy!!! I was thinking that maybe i was having a head problem, but i didn't see any tell tale signs of coolant leaking over into the oil. So, today was the first day i drove to work with the new alternator on, i filled it up with coolant before i left for work, i drove 20 minutes to work and 20 minutes back home.
The temperature gauge never moved above the middle line, even when i was at a sit still with the car on. I checked the coolant level after the car cooled off, and it was still pretty full. Could a bad alternator effect the performance of your cooling system? I am by no means, complaining about this, I am very happy my car isn't heating up abnormally anymore, just curious was the alternator my problem?
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My cd's sound pretty good but I am unsure if my 09 LE has the jbl system in it. How do I check this?
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I have a 98 accord Ex. Just a couple of days ago the exhaust system started to rattle. I crawled under the the car and found that the exhaust pipes were pretty rusted. However I couldn't decide which parts of exhaust system should be replaced: the muffler, exhaust pipes, or the catalytic converter? Is there any tips to identify the broken parts?
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P0420 Catalyst System below efficiency -- bank 1
I've had this code for a couple months trying to trouble shoot it. My gas mileage has been affected, as I'm getting about 23/24 MPG city/highway. I replaced the upstream 02 sensor with am aftermarket Bosch variety( I'm not sure why a non-OEM one would make a difference, as long it's working correctly).
My car has 253k miles, the cat doesn't rattle and I don't smell any rotten eggs or anything, but it has to be clogged or the 02 sensor I got was defective. My engine runs fine and I don't have any problems accelerating or decelerating. It may still be the 02 sensor since the gas mileage decrease is so significant, or it could be my converter is really clogged up.
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I have a wiring issue. I have found a broken conductor in my brake light system, which causes my right and high-mount brake lights not to function. If I give the wire a good wiggling and fanangaling, I can get all the brake lights to come on, but eventually they go out again after driving for a few days. The problem I have is this: I don't know how to release the wire from its terminations. Unfortunately, I think the break is close to the connector (away from the bulb socket), so I can't just cut out the middle and splice in a new conductor. How to free the wires from this connector and bulb socket? I'm afraid to do too much tinkering for fear of pulling loose another, undamaged wire. The wire in question is the orange one.
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I have a 2009 SEL 4 Motion w/ RNS 510, MDI.
I am very happy with the car apart from the quality of the sound system. Coming from Audi, BMW earlier being used to their premium systems, the Dynaudio in the Tiguan is not doing it for me. There is the lack of midrange dynamics and no punch in the low tones. What would be the best way to increase the quality w/o paying too much? Also, where in the Pennsylvania/New York area are there good shops that could do such job?
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I have a 2002 Accord with about 130k miles on it and the brakes don't have nearly the power that they used to. The pads and rotors are due for replacement but even then, the system is pretty weak. Would replacing the master cylinder? What about simply replacing the brake fluid (I doubt it has ever been changed)? And/or the calipers? The car is in great condition and I really like it so I don't mind investing some time and money to get more years out of it.
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Yesterday the check engine light came on 03 Accord EX 4-cyl auto, the code is P2647. According to the dealership and O’Reilly print out it can be a number of things. The car starts running rough after 2700 rpms, and then (if you keep pressing accelerator) dies.
So I can drive it now as long as I do not accelerate too much. (That is great for the gas mileage, but does not work on the on-ramps)I did replace engine oil and filter yesterday, but the engine light is still on with the same code. The car has 175K miles.
O’Reilly manual suggests replacing:
•VTEC Oil pressure switch
•VCT Solenoid
•Pressure switch
•Solenoid Valve Assembly
The Honda Dealership said it might be:
•VTC Oil Control in Valve Assembly
•Valve Timing Oil pressure in the switch assembly
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What exactly is a hyrbrid audio system for the car? I googled around and still can't really grasp what it is.
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I just bought 2009 with the jbl system and I see sat on the radio but when I try it I can't get to it. I do have nav and it works great but do I have traffic? I have seen people have that too! and if I do not have it what can I do to get it?
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I just started noticing a noise coming from my 2009 Honda Accord tonight. I was on my way to my buddies bar. When I accelerate past 2500 rpm I notice a noise coming from the engine (or at least what seems to be the engine). Also the Oil pressure light comes on at this point. It (the noise and light turning on) happens when I get to about 2500 rpm, If i keep it below that nothing happens. If I am below 2500 rpm there is no unusual noise nor is there any light.
I left my car at my buddies bar because I did not want to risk driving it back. I checked the oil and I think there was little oil in the engine although I refilled it recently (It was dark when I checked it, I am checking it again tomorrow with a second opinion).
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I have noticed in my 2009 Honda Accord that the temperature of the heated air coming out of the dash vents drops when I select "all dash" as opposed to "mix dash and floor." It's significant enough to notice as it blows on my hands. But the dealer says the difference is within 5 degrees, which is within specs, so they won't do anything.
I don't think I can measure it myself since I can't fully jam my thermometer in the dash vent, so any reading would be contaminated by ambient temperature.
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I bought a n 09 f350 lariat a couple weeks ago, I was in such a hurry to get out of the dealer before the CEL in my GMC came back on in my trade in I never paid attention to the stereo, previous owner stuck in a stock am/fm radio which wouldn t even work, This dealer was a couple hundred miles away (I had to drive to get a v10)so they sent me the proper nav radio for my truck, had it installed (since they were paying) everything works, XM,radio,navigation but no backup camera, what should I look for? maybe the stereo guy didn't plug it in? is there a seperate plug or a way to turn it on?
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I have an 08 superduty with navigation radio, will the sync radio from the 09 and 10 trucks fit in mine?
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I have a 2009 Honda accord ex coupe and the Ac works fine when I'm driving but once I stop it stops and the air starts to get warmer but if I rev it at a red light the Ac starts to work and I have nice cold air. Both radiator and condenser fan work and are spinning and the same time when the Ac is on. The compressor will cycle on and off at idle but it will turn on for maybe two seconds. And turn off but if I have someone rev the engine it will kick on and stay on at about 1500rpm and the Ac works normally I have no leaks.
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I have a 2009 honda accord, v6, auto, 46k. It has recently started to chug, most of the time, not always. I feel it in the gas pedal. Kind of a jerking, hesitation chug while accelerating. It only chugs between 20-40 mph, disappears after that. Someone suggested a spark plug problem, but I can't imagine it's that since it disappears after 40mph. Could it be a transmission problem?
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I have really driven my Corolla until the stereo system stopped working a month old. The audio just stopped during one rainy day when I was playing a CD.
The stereo unit appears still functioning and I was able to take the stereo out and un-plug/re-plug in the 4 wires connectors in the back. A couple of times, by doing this, the audio came back for 10~15 minutes and then went silent after that.
So, what could be the cause of the issues? Could it be there some short in the wiring? How would trouble shoot this issue further?
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My 2010 Prius, package IV is only 2 1/2 years old, but I'm at 46K miles.
My factory NAV system has worked fine, but last week when I tried using it, the display said "Map read error", or "Can't read map" (something like that). I ejected the map disc (ver 8.1), cleaned it, reinserted, and got the same error.
My friend also has a '10 Prius, so he let me try his disc. He's got ver 9.1. When I loaded it, the map came up on the display, but the system locked up when I tried to do anything. I had to restart the car, but when I tried again, the same lockup happened with his disc.
Is there anything special I need to do when loading a new DVD map version? Is there any chance it's NOT the actual head unit that's now bad? Is there any chance my dealer would cover this even though I'm over 36K miles, but not over 3 years?
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