Honda - Accord :: 2008 - Engine Malfunction Light Lit Up On Dashboard
Oct 30, 2011
My 2008 Honda Accord 's dashboard Engine Malfunction Light got lit. I have driven a further 4 kilometers and stopped at a lube station and found that oil level is a little low.
Did an engine flush and refilled with synthetic oil. The MFL light is gone after a minute of starting and it stayed out.
Now the problem that I am facing is poor gas mileage. I can literally see the fuel guage going down while driving . A full tank now gets me around 200 KM rather than 550-600 which I usually get.
Google search suggested an ECU reset. Is this safe ? or should the car need to go to the service station?
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I have an '08 Accord Cpe with a V6 and 5-speed auto. transmission. When driving on a level stretch of road trying to hold the speed at 40mph the engine speed will bounce up and down between 1400 and 1700 RPM. The engine is warm. The transmission feels like it is trying to up-shift and make the car go faster thus nearly impossible to hold the speed at 40mph. If I put the transmission in 3rd gear so it can't shift up there isn't this problem. I have also noticed a lugging or hesitating when trying to accelerate when the engine is cold. I wonder if these are related issues?
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2003 Accord with 161K+ miles on it.notice several months back that the oil light would blink about 1 to 5 minutes into driving. I would turn the engine off, sit for 10 or 15 seconds, and start it back up and never see the light again the entire day.
this would happen once a week or so until I would get the oil changed, then I wouldn't see it again for 2000 or 3000 more miles.
Had Honda check it out, they found nothing wrong.
Lately, it happens more often, always first thing when driving, 1 to 5 minutes from starting.
Today I noticed something that makes me think it is a bad sensor; I have to make a U-turn today and I took it quite fast. As I was in mid turn I noticed the oil light KIND of flashing/blinking/trying to come on... like a light does if you hold the switch around the middle, flickered dimly. After I completed the U-turn the light did not stay on.
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I have a 2009 Honda accord ex coupe and the Ac works fine when I'm driving but once I stop it stops and the air starts to get warmer but if I rev it at a red light the Ac starts to work and I have nice cold air. Both radiator and condenser fan work and are spinning and the same time when the Ac is on. The compressor will cycle on and off at idle but it will turn on for maybe two seconds. And turn off but if I have someone rev the engine it will kick on and stay on at about 1500rpm and the Ac works normally I have no leaks.
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I have a 2008 Honda Accord that about 4 months ago the drl light on the dashboard would come on for a few seconds and then go off. This happened 2 or 3 times a week. During this time the driver side drl light would also quit working. A couple of weeks later it progressed to the drl dashboard light would come on, then the tpms dashboard light would also come on. After an intermittent period of time (seconds to minutes) the icon showing low tire pressure would flash for a second and the drl light and tpms light would go off. This happened maybe 3 times in a day, then not happen again for a week or so. Air pressure in all tires was correct. About week ago it progressed to the drl dashboard light and the tpms dashboard light stay on all the time and neither the drl light (drl mode or high beam or will work on the driver side. In the past few days the low beam on the driver side has also quit working.
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Have a 91 Honda Accord (automatic) with seems to be an electrical problem.After driving a while the Tac, Speedometer stop working and the radio cuts in and out. The car still runs, just a little rougher; when I turn it off it won't start, acts like the battery is dead. After it sits overnight it starts and then runs fine for a while or until it happens all over again.
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I have been waiting for the pulley to be replaced and was just informed that the air compressor put in last July was defective. The compressor is being replaced because it's under warantee but I'm wondering if a defective air compressor could have caused the pulley to break.
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2008 honda accord coupe ex-l
So, I assisted my sister in finding my nephew a used car and everything looked great on the surface as well as mechanical. We get the car home and the SRS light comes on.. I started digging into why and find there is dirt dust all behind the dash and side panels around airbags in back and pretty much everywhere below the surface.
Digging into the service records I see they did have to replace a fender liner which might have been a port of entry for all the dirt and dust. Apparently the young driver was putting in mileage on dry dirt roads without a fender liner.
I did caution against buying this car previously, even before looking at it, because it was a teenage driver, there was a minor wreck into driver's door and repairs had to be made for him running up on a curb as well. But in their desperation for a car.. they asked me to check out the mechanics of it.. i did.. they looked good.. but I missed all this dirt dust and now i feel bad.
Anyways, how to go about cleaning out all this dirt dust behind the dash, and panels of the car? I worried if I leave it there, he will experience additional expensive electronic issues.
Was thinking of taking off some side panels and dash off, and using a vacuum with a brush head to try and get it.. I could use compressed air.. but perhaps that may be potentially harmful to other electronics and connections?
As for the SRS light, i was able to count the light flashes in dash to get code 8-3 off of the flashing SRS light and a 7-1 off the ABS light. Referencing those: "Internal Failure of SRS unit".
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How can I reset the Maintenance Req'd reminder on my dash so it disappears? My car is a 2005 Honda Accord LX 2-dr coupe automatic, 2.4 liter, 4 cyl.
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I own a 1994 Honda Accord with 200,000+ miles on it. Suddenly the Dashboard controls stopped working, and the shift lever wont shift out of Park unless I manually force it to shift by inserting key in to the slot beside the shift lever. I suspect it has something to do with the brake fuse. Where the break fuse is located.
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My mechanic tells me I need the intake manifold gasket replaced (check engine light on, engine surging, running very rough). How much damage can I do to the car by doing this repair myself and screwing it up? I've done lots of repairs on my car before -- brake pads, rotors, replace oil pan. I also have a copy of the manufacturer's shop manual.
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I am a grad student hoping my car will hang in there till graduation next year. I have about 227,000 miles on my Honda Accord Wagon and recently the odometer stopped working, S light started flashing, and the check engine light came on. This only happens sometimes, and the check engine light does not always come on when the S light flashes and odometer stops working. I've continued driving the car to see what happens and so far, no problems have come up. I have driven another 1000 miles and am hoping I can just ignore the problem and continue driving the vehicle since I am not in a position to fix it or get a new car.
Recently I passed my California emissions test and she seems to be running smooth. Any thoughts or warnings as to why sometimes these signals happen?
I have to drive with GPS on all the time to know my speed, but other than that I feel OK.
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2005 Honda Accord. I have been experiencing a loss of electricity to my dashboard - the radio cuts out, tach and speedometer needles drop, sometimes warning lights come on. I don't think I have experience a loss of power with this but when it happens, it lasts less than a second.
I can go days of driving without issue. Then, in one drive it may happen four or five times. I hate the idea of taking it into the dealer on an intermittent electrical issue. That could be a real bank drain.
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My question: was there some some OBD code or light I should have expected (that didn't show)? What did the flashing Check Engine Light mean?
At 10:30pm last night, I picked my wife and bro-in-law up from the Logan airport, and on the way to drop BIL at his house, I saw a brief whisp of steam/smoke rise from the passenger side hood/wheel-well when idling at a top-light. I exclaimed that the car was smoking, but BOTH my wife and BIL insisted that we had been stopped over a steam grate. (In 70 degree weather? I puzzled, but since BOTH said that had been the case...).
A few minutes later, the check-engine light flashed (three times, I think) and then went off. I drive with an OBD ScanTool attached on the dash, so I immediately switched it to scan the codes, but it reported "clear" / no codes! Either immediately before or immediately after, the car lost accelerating power for 1 or 2 seconds (at most), but then resumed normal driving. No other dash lights were on, though I did not look at the temp gauge.
I am a former chef and professional cook, and have a VERY sensitive sense of smell-- there was NONE; I watched attentively, and the absence of further smoke/steam seemed to support the unseasonal steam-grate hypothesis. I had also picked up the car within the last 24 hours from THE HONDA DEALERSHIP, who I had asked to look everything over to ensure another 6 months of problem-free driving. (I rejected their offer of a $249.00 "triple flush" of transmission, brakes, and pwr steering.) We have otherwise had zero problems with the transmission or cooling-- the car is old, but maintained reasonably well and driven less that 5000 mi / year. Boston driving, but not aggressive or 19 years old!
No further thought, as all seemed okay except for the brief "blip", and pregnant wife, brother-in-law, two dogs, and I all wanted to get home.Drove the 2ish miles to our apartment, with no further blips. At a stoplight about 3 blocks from home, a LOT of smoke/steam started coming out from the hood. Still no lights or OBD codes! At that point, I pulled over within 5 seconds, and noticed that the temp was pinned or nearly so (If there is supposed to be a light on the gauges, I had it all the way dimmed). Looking under the hood, the spray pattern on the hood insulator made it easy to find the split in one of the hoses connected just under the distributor (about 1.25in OD; I'm guessing coolant or transmission, based on the symptoms??).
While waiting for a tow-truck (since I wasn't even sure if it would do any damage to drive the remaining blocks to my driveway), and after things had a chance to cool a bit, my wife restarted the engine for a second so I could check if any additional fluid came out of that split, but none did. Once the temp was back down towards the low end in 20ish minutes, I drove the car about one block so I could stop blocking traffic-- it drove fine, and the temp didn't visibly rise in that 200 yards. Still, the CEL was not on (or flashing) during startup or while running, and there were NO OBD CODES.
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I have a 2000 Honda Accord V6 sedan (under 100k miles). For two years now I have had a check engine light.
Originally I was told it was a CO sensor that was broke. But now when I get the car inspected, the inspector says I have a catalytic error.
So off to the mechanic. They replace the catalytic converter, claiming it was just an empty shell.
Check engine light comes back on the next day after all that money spent. Back to the mechanic. He says now that the intakes into the catalytic system there are all clogged, so that needs to be scrubbed. Many hundred dollars later, and the problem persists. Still a check engine light.
What could be causing this check engine light nightmare? I cannot get the car inspected so I have that added head ache.
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The leak is only present when it rains. It drops from behind the dashboard onto the foot rest (left of the break pedal) soaking the floor mat and carpet. Where is the water coming from and how can I plug the leak? 2002 Honda Accord EX...
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I have a 2005 Accord 4 cylinder that has the engine light on. I have had it serviced and the code was P1009. First mechanic added oil and reset the light. It came back on, so the problem wasn't low oil. He then replaced the variable timing solenoid and changed the oil and filter. After a week or so, the light came on with same code. I then took it to a foreign car specialist well-skilled in Honda engines. He did a lot of research and confirmed the first mechanic did everything correctly, but he also changed the small screen in the oil passage (related to the VTC solenoid somehow). Light came back on today. The car only has 44,000 miles and was well-maintained, oil checked and replaced regularly, no sludge or buildup. I will return to the mechanic that did the last repair, but they all seem stumped by the return of the P1009 code. How to resolve it?
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The check engine light stays on. The hood of my car was not securely locked when I purchased it, I'm sure it's due to an accident because it's damaged. Can the hood be a reason the check engine light stays on..it does not blink.
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I have a 2007 Honda Accord, automatic transmission. Engine light of the car turns on while i am driving the car. When the light is on the car slows down and it does not give me the same speed when I press on the gas as if the gear is not shifting. When I stop the can and turn the ignition off and turn it again, the light disappears and he car runs fine. However, this may repeat itself after driving for a few mile and sometimes disappears for days.
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Periodically the engine light comes on and then when I hit the gas it "stutters" and the car jerks - similar jerking feeling when you are learning to drive a stick shift but this car is an automatic. I have to take foot off gas pedal and keep slowly applying again to building up speed. The stuttering stops as soon as I take my foot off the gas pedal. Sometimes when I stop the car, turn it off, the light will turn off and the car drives great. Sometimes that doesn't work and the light stays on for a day or two then magically is gone when I start the car again. I have noticed the light comes on most often if I haven't warmed it up enough before driving, but other times it just comes on. I have taken it to two different Honda dealers and they don't know what the issue is.
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Out of nowhere my check engine light came on bought some oil thought it was low, and i just recently got an oil change. Checked my sparks and it was okay. Couple hours later my car began over heating With engine light still on, and my temperature gauges increased knew something was wrong, filled it with anti freeze to cool it down, continued driving and the issue continued. Bought me a knew sensor, I noticed it worked but did not fix the issue, my car continues to over heat, couple days later without driving it, this morning on my way to work it was really cold so my car did not overheat, but my check engine light began blinking and my vehicle began rattling from my house all the way to work, for about 9 miles. Whats wrong with it? Is it safe to drive back home after work.??
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