Honda - Accord :: 2007 - MIL Came Steady On / Not Blinking
Sep 2, 2013
The MIL came on (steady on, not blinking) about a month ago on a very rainy day. The car felt sluggish going from stop to start and at low speed, but then it was OK at higher speed (>40 mph). I checked the fuel cap, which was tightened appropriately. I went to my mechanic. His computer diagnosed the problem to be malfunctioning of the "throttle position sensor". I had the throttle position sensor replaced. About two weeks after the new sensor was put in, the MIL came on again and went off in two days. Two days later it came on again (steady, not blinking) after I drove to work in a downpour. This time the car had no problem getting from stop to start and at low speed, but could not go over 45 mph. I went to my mechanic again. The computer diagnosis this time was "system too lean". After three dry days when I drove only very short distances, the MIL went off. What is going on? are computerized diagnoses always accurate? why did the MIL seem to be related to wet weather? I bought a Honda Accord because of its reported reliability.
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I started my car a few weeks ago, and the check engine light came on and the S light on my dash kept blinking. Followed by a difficulty stepping on the gas pedal. I attempted the paperclip way of scanning my OBD1 scanner. When I used it, the check engine light went off, no S light blinking anymore, and the gas pedal worked great! I also changed out my VSS (vehicle speed sensor) but the light came on anyway, and my speedometer can't read at correct speeds. Could the engine light problem be because of misfiring due to spark plugs? I don't want to keep buying parts and stuff unless I'm 100% sure it will fix the issue.
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I have a 1998 or 1997 Honda Accord and just noticed the other day that my left turn signal was blinking faster than normal. Now I know that this would denote a burnt lightbulb but I got out of my car to see if one wasn't working on my left side. All of my lights seem to be "on" but the left side turn signals are flashing faster than normal. Also I did hit a speed bump at app. 40 mph the other day.
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I have a 2002 accord with 118k miles that recently after a car wash and oil change, the oil pressure light came on a stays on blinking. I took it to my mechanic and he put a manual pressure gauge on and found that the oil pressure was normal. He changed the oil pressure sensor but the light still is blinking. He believes that having the car washed, under body wash, might have shorted out the harness. Been driving the car for a week and it seems fine, no noticeable difference in performance or sounds coming from the engine.
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My 2004 Honda Accord wouldn't start this morning. Immobilization indicator was blinking. After a bit, it started just fine, as the indicator stopped blinking. My thinking at this time was that it had rained torrentially the previous night, maybe some moisture had got into the circuitry and caused a little 'hiccup.' Then, as I drove, about 5 minutes later, the car started trying to stall. The check engine light came on, then the battery light came on and flashed. The engine ran erratically. Both check engine and battery lights started blinking erratically. At one point the dash beeped at me, like the warning sound it makes when the emergency brake is on while the car is moving. This got worse as I drove. I pulled over to the nearest shop. 2 hours of looking at the car, they said the camshaft sensor and the alternator needed to be replaced. .
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Many threads on this subject, however my lights are a little different
When it first happened, on start up, I got all 4, which went away after about 1/4 mile of driving
Next start up I only have the ABS, VSC steady on and the TPS blinking. No "E brake light" lit like before and as others have mentioned.
The dash lights stay on all the time, even when shutting down and re starting. My rear brake lights work normally. Disconnecting the battery for about 30m didn't reset them either.
Lastly, I hooked up my scanner (Actron) and no codes were returned. Have the same symptoms and it still turned out to be the switch??
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I did the blue wire cut-mod 20 minutes ago. I had a consistent blinking TPMS light. I cut the correct, blue, wire and grounded to a stud behind the kick panel. The light is now steadily lit. Was I supposed to disconnect the battery first?
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04 r32 CEL just came on. 1st blinking now just on steady. Timing belt, coils, plugs, wires, ecu and then some done at dealer within last 3,000 mi and still?
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One car, which I have used a lot recently, had the check engine light come on yesterday, it was on all day, morning and evening, today it is off. I asked the person who had it last; he said it was not on. He did mention he filled it with premium, and I usually use the cheep stuff. Could this have just been some sort of adjustment to the new gas? Should I be concerned still? Or should I just let it go since the light is now off? I was going to try and go to a mechanic next week, but would prefer not to as I would have to take vacation time to do so. While cheaper, the maintenance and time-off involved is the down side to my companies program. Do I check it out? Or let it go? It's a 2007 Honda Accord Fleet Edition with 30,000 miles.
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My 07 Accord V6 won't turn over. Brand new battery showing 12.5 volts, and I checked all the fuses. All other electrical is in working condition. Had the wife turn the key while I tapped on the starter with no luck. Then I measured the voltage coming into the solenoid from the starter while sitting there and 0 volts, then had the wife turn the key and it was showing 10.5 volts.
I took off the kick panel and swapped the ACC relay for the starter cut relay ( they're identical) and still nothing. I'm pretty much down to it being a problem with the ignition switch, but I'm not looking forward to getting into the steering column. What else it could be, or have some tips for what I should do / be looking for if I get into the steering column?
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I have a 2009 Matrix. The AC just stopped working as we were going down the road. The voltage at the compressor was 2.6 volts. the same voltage at the HVAC module I don't hear the compressor kick on at all, engine speed doesn't change when the AC button is toggled on and off.
The AC light stays on steady not blinking. I am pretty sure that there is enough refrigerant in the system.
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I have a 2007 Honda Accord. A few days ago I backed the car up to the front of the house, and in the reflection of the windows and glass I noticed my brake lights were very dim looking. The brake lights on this model/year are LED brake lights that are Honda genuine brake lights. After I noticed, I put the car in park and tapped the brake lights several times and noticed they got very bright, then very dim. Then bright, and dim again and so on and so forth. They also flickered on and off at one point while my foot was planted firmly on the brake pedal. Is this a popular known issue with these brake lights? What can I do to correct this? Took the car back to the dealership and they said there was nothing wrong. (Of course)
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My 2007 suddenly wants to give no heat when idle...as soon as I begin moving again the heat blows hot, but when stopped at a light or sitting in park the heat only blows cold air...
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I have a 2011 Elantra that I purchased brand new. Has over 60,000 miles on it. Had a check engine light come about year or so ago which was fixed with a software update at the dealer.
Check engine light is back on now. Steady light; it's not blinking. Brought it to my mechanic. Ran diagnostic and said the oxygen sensor needed to be replaced. P codes were P2096 and P2196. He ordered the sensor from the dealership and installed it. Reset my cars computer. I drove the car 26 miles and the engine light came on again.
Here are my questions:
1. Wouldn't my mechanic's diagnostic equipment tell him what the problem or all the problems were? Why would it tell him the oxygen sensor needed to be replaced when there seems to be another problem causing the engine light to come on?
2. Would the dealership have more insight into a check engine light system problem than a mechanic shop may have?
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My 2007, Honda Accord, 6-speed manual, 6 cylinder EX Coupe vibrates when I accelerate between the speeds of approx. 50-65 mph and then smooths out above that speed. Slightly higher when going uphill.
It only happens when accelerating and not if I'm just cruising without applying the power. My wheels and tires have been checked for balance and are in good shape. No bent rims, tires are in balance.
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Car: 2007 Honda Accord LX 2.4 liter
Recently my car has been making a little too much noise from the water pump. It doesn't happen immediately, it happens after the car has driven for a while. for example, I have an hour commute to work and today the sound was noticeable during the last 5-10 min when I turned the radio down to check. This is similar to other instances in the past week or so. I opened the hood and saw the point that had the sound, checked online and found it was the water pump. Also when I looked under the hood today I noticed my power steering fluid was right at the min level, I will be refilling that of course. What should I do to diagnose this issue?
Additional note: I was told there was some water dripping from my car, but thought little of it since I had been using the A/C that day and the humidity was a bit high.
My current plan of action is to refill the power steering fluid, see if that removes the noise. I will also put a cardboard under the car engine to see if it catches any fluids shortly after I park. Just in case there is a leak somewhere in the system.
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I'm a Marine about to deploy to Afghanistan for a year. What I should do for my 2007 Honda Accord before I leave? I'm not planning to have anyone start it while I'm gone and it'll be in my garage while I'm gone.
My plan right now is to detach the battery and leave it. I'm going to buy an air compressor to put air back in the tires when I get back and I'll jump start it also since I'm anticipating the battery will be dead.
How I should leave it? Any recommended repairs before I leave? I just got the oil changed, transmission flushed, and throttle body cleaned since I just passed 60k miles.
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10 months ago I purchased a 2007 Accord with a bad driver's door lock actuator. I replaced it myself 5 months ago, and when I did so, I discovered that it had been previously replaced, at least once. A month ago it went out again. Not sure if its relevant, but this time when it stopped working I had accidentally pulled the door handle at the same time that I pressed the unlock button on the key fob.
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I have a 2007 Honda Accord. A few weeks ago, it started making a whistling noise whenever I was in reverse, however, it would stop when I hit the brakes. Then I notices a very similar noise while driving, again if I break, it stop. Also, if I go over 45mph or so, it stops. Just yesterday I notices a grinding noise/feeling when braking but only when the brake all the way down. What this could be?
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Like a good boy scout, last week I changed the engine air and cabin filters in my 59K-mile 2007 Honda Accord.
Taking out the air filter, I saw the usual insects and dust in the housing and got out the shopvac to suck them out. But the hose was on the wrong port, and I ended up blowing the insects and dust everywhere. Augghhh! Into the intake manifold for sure, I'd bet. I connected the hose right, put it to the air intake, and prayed I was vacuuming all the dust I'd just blown in.
The next day, on the way to college, the car ran perfectly the first three miles. Then, a half mile from campus, the check engine light came on and the car began running badly. RPMs wouldn't increase even if the gas pedal was pressed. The speed couldn't be made to go above about 20 mph. The transmission, ordinarily smooth as silk, now clunked. Fortunately, I was able to reach the college parking lot. I parked the car and went to class, hoping the car would fix itself while I was gone.
Apparently it did. After the three hours I was in classes, the car started up just fine, and it drove home just fine. Except that the check engine light was still on.
At home, I used my OBD2 checker (bought five years ago but never until now even taken out of its packaging; love my Accord), saw a fault of P2101, and erased it. That made the check engine light go out. P2101 has to do with air/fuel, so it must be related to the air filter fiasco of yesterday.
By the way, there's a rattle from the glove compartment (which is lowered to replace the cabin filter). When the compartment door is open, the rattle goes away. Will troubleshoot this later. Am more concerned with being certain the check engine light doesn't come back. I don't want to go into limp mode on the highway, hours from home.
Two days later, I took advantage of a Sunday afternoon to try to blow/clean out the injectors and intake manifold. I put in a bottle of Techron and drove the car 45 miles, mostly on a nearby semi-rural highway. It has a 70 mph speed limit but at times traffic was doing 80. (Texas.) The car ran perfectly, both highway and city.
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I have 2007 Honda accord. All three passenger side windows will not work. The driver side window do work however. The lock out button is not activated. When I press the switches to the passenger windows, it makes a click sound but windows will not open. This just started happening all at the same time without any warning.
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