Honda - Accord :: 2007 - CEL Went On / Off On Its Own
Apr 28, 2011
One car, which I have used a lot recently, had the check engine light come on yesterday, it was on all day, morning and evening, today it is off. I asked the person who had it last; he said it was not on. He did mention he filled it with premium, and I usually use the cheep stuff. Could this have just been some sort of adjustment to the new gas? Should I be concerned still? Or should I just let it go since the light is now off? I was going to try and go to a mechanic next week, but would prefer not to as I would have to take vacation time to do so. While cheaper, the maintenance and time-off involved is the down side to my companies program. Do I check it out? Or let it go? It's a 2007 Honda Accord Fleet Edition with 30,000 miles.
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My 07 Accord V6 won't turn over. Brand new battery showing 12.5 volts, and I checked all the fuses. All other electrical is in working condition. Had the wife turn the key while I tapped on the starter with no luck. Then I measured the voltage coming into the solenoid from the starter while sitting there and 0 volts, then had the wife turn the key and it was showing 10.5 volts.
I took off the kick panel and swapped the ACC relay for the starter cut relay ( they're identical) and still nothing. I'm pretty much down to it being a problem with the ignition switch, but I'm not looking forward to getting into the steering column. What else it could be, or have some tips for what I should do / be looking for if I get into the steering column?
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I have a 2007 Honda Accord. A few days ago I backed the car up to the front of the house, and in the reflection of the windows and glass I noticed my brake lights were very dim looking. The brake lights on this model/year are LED brake lights that are Honda genuine brake lights. After I noticed, I put the car in park and tapped the brake lights several times and noticed they got very bright, then very dim. Then bright, and dim again and so on and so forth. They also flickered on and off at one point while my foot was planted firmly on the brake pedal. Is this a popular known issue with these brake lights? What can I do to correct this? Took the car back to the dealership and they said there was nothing wrong. (Of course)
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The MIL came on (steady on, not blinking) about a month ago on a very rainy day. The car felt sluggish going from stop to start and at low speed, but then it was OK at higher speed (>40 mph). I checked the fuel cap, which was tightened appropriately. I went to my mechanic. His computer diagnosed the problem to be malfunctioning of the "throttle position sensor". I had the throttle position sensor replaced. About two weeks after the new sensor was put in, the MIL came on again and went off in two days. Two days later it came on again (steady, not blinking) after I drove to work in a downpour. This time the car had no problem getting from stop to start and at low speed, but could not go over 45 mph. I went to my mechanic again. The computer diagnosis this time was "system too lean". After three dry days when I drove only very short distances, the MIL went off. What is going on? are computerized diagnoses always accurate? why did the MIL seem to be related to wet weather? I bought a Honda Accord because of its reported reliability.
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My 2007 suddenly wants to give no heat when idle...as soon as I begin moving again the heat blows hot, but when stopped at a light or sitting in park the heat only blows cold air...
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My 2007, Honda Accord, 6-speed manual, 6 cylinder EX Coupe vibrates when I accelerate between the speeds of approx. 50-65 mph and then smooths out above that speed. Slightly higher when going uphill.
It only happens when accelerating and not if I'm just cruising without applying the power. My wheels and tires have been checked for balance and are in good shape. No bent rims, tires are in balance.
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Car: 2007 Honda Accord LX 2.4 liter
Recently my car has been making a little too much noise from the water pump. It doesn't happen immediately, it happens after the car has driven for a while. for example, I have an hour commute to work and today the sound was noticeable during the last 5-10 min when I turned the radio down to check. This is similar to other instances in the past week or so. I opened the hood and saw the point that had the sound, checked online and found it was the water pump. Also when I looked under the hood today I noticed my power steering fluid was right at the min level, I will be refilling that of course. What should I do to diagnose this issue?
Additional note: I was told there was some water dripping from my car, but thought little of it since I had been using the A/C that day and the humidity was a bit high.
My current plan of action is to refill the power steering fluid, see if that removes the noise. I will also put a cardboard under the car engine to see if it catches any fluids shortly after I park. Just in case there is a leak somewhere in the system.
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I'm a Marine about to deploy to Afghanistan for a year. What I should do for my 2007 Honda Accord before I leave? I'm not planning to have anyone start it while I'm gone and it'll be in my garage while I'm gone.
My plan right now is to detach the battery and leave it. I'm going to buy an air compressor to put air back in the tires when I get back and I'll jump start it also since I'm anticipating the battery will be dead.
How I should leave it? Any recommended repairs before I leave? I just got the oil changed, transmission flushed, and throttle body cleaned since I just passed 60k miles.
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10 months ago I purchased a 2007 Accord with a bad driver's door lock actuator. I replaced it myself 5 months ago, and when I did so, I discovered that it had been previously replaced, at least once. A month ago it went out again. Not sure if its relevant, but this time when it stopped working I had accidentally pulled the door handle at the same time that I pressed the unlock button on the key fob.
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I have a 2007 Honda Accord. A few weeks ago, it started making a whistling noise whenever I was in reverse, however, it would stop when I hit the brakes. Then I notices a very similar noise while driving, again if I break, it stop. Also, if I go over 45mph or so, it stops. Just yesterday I notices a grinding noise/feeling when braking but only when the brake all the way down. What this could be?
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Like a good boy scout, last week I changed the engine air and cabin filters in my 59K-mile 2007 Honda Accord.
Taking out the air filter, I saw the usual insects and dust in the housing and got out the shopvac to suck them out. But the hose was on the wrong port, and I ended up blowing the insects and dust everywhere. Augghhh! Into the intake manifold for sure, I'd bet. I connected the hose right, put it to the air intake, and prayed I was vacuuming all the dust I'd just blown in.
The next day, on the way to college, the car ran perfectly the first three miles. Then, a half mile from campus, the check engine light came on and the car began running badly. RPMs wouldn't increase even if the gas pedal was pressed. The speed couldn't be made to go above about 20 mph. The transmission, ordinarily smooth as silk, now clunked. Fortunately, I was able to reach the college parking lot. I parked the car and went to class, hoping the car would fix itself while I was gone.
Apparently it did. After the three hours I was in classes, the car started up just fine, and it drove home just fine. Except that the check engine light was still on.
At home, I used my OBD2 checker (bought five years ago but never until now even taken out of its packaging; love my Accord), saw a fault of P2101, and erased it. That made the check engine light go out. P2101 has to do with air/fuel, so it must be related to the air filter fiasco of yesterday.
By the way, there's a rattle from the glove compartment (which is lowered to replace the cabin filter). When the compartment door is open, the rattle goes away. Will troubleshoot this later. Am more concerned with being certain the check engine light doesn't come back. I don't want to go into limp mode on the highway, hours from home.
Two days later, I took advantage of a Sunday afternoon to try to blow/clean out the injectors and intake manifold. I put in a bottle of Techron and drove the car 45 miles, mostly on a nearby semi-rural highway. It has a 70 mph speed limit but at times traffic was doing 80. (Texas.) The car ran perfectly, both highway and city.
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I have 2007 Honda accord. All three passenger side windows will not work. The driver side window do work however. The lock out button is not activated. When I press the switches to the passenger windows, it makes a click sound but windows will not open. This just started happening all at the same time without any warning.
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I am suddenly having difficulty starting my car. It will consistently turn over, but sounds as if it's running down the battery - right away, I don't sit for more than a few seconds with the ignition switch engaged. I turn the key to the off position and try again and it will has started up by the 3rd try every time so far. Once it starts, it runs great - no problems what so ever.
I replaced the battery about a month and a half ago so I suspected that perhaps I got a bad battery. I took the car by autozone to have them test the battery and alternator - both tested "good," But I should note that this was actually the second time I took it to autozone this weekend and the battery tested good but low charge the first time (It was fully charged this time and I had just had trouble cranking. I thought I had just killed the battery because I was using a cell phone battery charge and thought it was just drawing too much).
I suspected the starter may be going bad, but I'm not sure because it will turn the engine over every time, it just doesn't start. The girl at autozone suggested it may be the voltage regulator but I thought that that along with issues with the alternator itself would be noticeable if I ran the car with the lights, radio, etc on? I read that it could be the plugs or wires, but I would think in that case the battery wouldn't sound as if it were run down right off the bat.
[URL] ....
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All regular maint has been completed timely on my 2007 Honda Accord; however, I hear a honking noise (sounds like a goose) when I accelerate sometimes. I've taken the car in but there are no codes that come up and they don't know what's wrong with it. I thought it was traction system.
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My 07 Honda Accord has an occasional popping and clicking sound. It happens most when I'm in reverse and cutting the wheel into a parallel park. My mechanic thought it was a transmission issue and did a transmission flush...but it's not happening when I'm switching gears and it seems and feels to me like it's more in the body of the car.
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I have a 2007 Honda Accord v6 3.0 L Coupe and I have a problem with the start up. I just bought a brand new battery for my car so I know it's not the battery. Anyway, when I turn the key in the ignition (normally) I cannot get the car to turn on, it makes an electrical screeching sound. However, when I quickly turn the key, the car turns on. I want the car to turn on normally but do not know the specific problem. I replaced the starter with a family member not too long ago, could it be that the starter was not installed correctly?
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My 2007 Honda Accord has been having a noisy power steering pump for the last 8 months. I would have changed the power steering pump however the noise only occurs in the morning- especially when its cold. I live in Southern California so its really never that cold (mid 40’s). Once I drive the car for a few miles the noise completely goes away (especially after driving high speed). Lately, the pump is making the noise every morning.
Immediately after the noise started I had the power steering fluid flushed and system bleed for air pockets. 2 months ago the dealer changed the return line on the system because of a recall on the power steering system. Still the noise continues! I noticed the power steering fluid looks a little frothy when the car is running. Don’t know if this is normal. Car has about 150k miles.
Should I change the power steering pump? Or have the fluid flushed again. What might be causing the noise? The last time I flushed the system it only stop the noise for about a month.
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The serpentine belt starting squeaking on cold and damp mornings about 18 months ago at about 60K. I replaced it with a Dayco belt, and the noise went away for about 6 months. When the weather turned cold last winter, the noise came back. So I changed the tensioner with both idler pulleys right about when the weather warmed up, and it was fine all summer. Now that it has gotten cold again, the squeak is back yet again and as before it goes away when the car warms up. I know it is the serpentine belt because when I spray it with water the noise immediately stops. I checked all the pulleys with the belt off and when I spin them I hear no noise. Is there something else it could be?
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In the past few weeks I have noticed that as I turn the ignition of my 2007 Honda Accord, I hear a strange electrical arcing/clicking sound coming from the steering column. The car starts normally and the sound goes away once the engine has started. I have taken the car to my mechanic and had the ignition checked out and they could not find anything wrong. How to identify the source of this noise/fault?
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My girlfriend has a 2007, v6, Honda Accord. She had difficulty turning the steering wheel, accompanied with a loud noise. She took it to a local garage and they diagnosed it as a leak in the power steering hose which she had replaced for about $400. When she used the car the following day, the problem was still there and seemed to be a little worse. She called the garage and they said for her to bring the car back which we'll be doing tomorrow. Also, coincidentally, we saw that Honda issued a recall for this. [URL] ...... As a result, we have the following questions:
-Is there any recourse for full or partial reimbursement from Honday? After all, if we took it to Honda, then Honda dealer would bill Honda Manufacturer anway.
-Should garages be familiar with recalls?
-Assuming the local garage fixes the problem, do you recommend that we still take it to the dealership?
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My 3.0 L Honda Accord won't start the way it should. I've included a video of the situation. I need to figure out what I need to replace. [URL] ....
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