Honda - Accord :: 2006 - Starter Motor Not Turning Over
Jan 16, 2014
Right now, 1 out of every 3 attempts at starting this car results in the starter motor not turning over. When it does turn over, the engine fires up just fine. Tried putting the transmission range switch in Neutral and it makes no difference. In neutral or park, when the starter does not run and with the volt meter on the starter solenoid terminal there is no 12 volts . Looking at the electrical diagram of the starting system, it appears that I have a bad ignition switch or bad starter cut relay.
I think I will opt for the starter cut relay first because the ignition switch seems like a daunting task. But I don't know where this relay is located. Did some research on the web and it seems it should be near the fuse block which is located under the dash on the left hand side of the drivers position. I see the fuse block and above it is a 1 x 2 inch gray block that looks like it could be the relay in question. I can just reach it but can't seem to pull it out. Need toconfirm that this is indeed the relay, how to get it out, I can bench test it.
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I have an 89 accord dx. That i just recently replaced the starter. and since then its been difficult to start. I have to pump the gas and hold the ignition. I also replaced the fuel pump not too long ago and the battery, also the fuel relay. have also gave a tune up so new plugs and wires and air filter. the only thing havent replaced is the fuel filter but it started like this right after i replaced the starter.
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Our Honda Accord had motor oil in the radiator overfill. Our mechanic thought it needed a new head gasket; it was repaired about three weeks ago. The problem is still the same. The dip stick is down on oil about 2 quarts and is clear. The overflow is mixed with oil.
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I have a 1WARM-PRO Compustar remote starter on my 2006 CR-V. It sucks the charge out of my battery so I have to plug in my battery all winter when I'm at home to keep it charged. Every summer I go to the starter shop to have my remote starter turned off. Up until this year, the guy did something to turn it off that took a couple of minutes and he never charged me. He no longer works there. The new guy wants to charge me because he says he has to go under the dashboard. The other guy never went under the dashboard. How I could do this myself?
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My 94 Honda Accord's distributor runs with the ignition switch off. Car will not start. Does this with master relay and 50 amp ignition fuse removed.
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I have a 1994 Honda Accord LX station wagon.. The problem is that When I go to turn the car on it cranks but takes a few times times for it to start up (then runs perfect) or even sometimes it won't start up at all but just keeps turning..(this happens every time I turn the car off and go to turn the car on again) I have just recently taken it to a local mechanic and got the fuel injectors changed.. But still the same problem arises.. One day I also went to turn the car off and i took out the key an the car kept running, i had to put the key back in and switch the key back and forth once again for it to finally turn off).
1. Main fuel relay
2. Fuel pump
3. Clogged fuel line or
4. Ignition switch
This car is my main source of transportation as of now!!
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I recently had my radiator replaced on my 1992 accord lx. Now I have notice that my temp. gage starts to climb up. All of the hoses are not leaking. I was wondering could this be a relay problem or a switch or motor fan. The a/c fan does come on when it is engaged.
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My check engine light is flashing and motor skips like a fouled plug. When I tried to change plugs the last plug to the right was pulled down so I couldn't get a wrench on it and covered in oil. How bad is this? Head or engine?
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Here is the issue with my car. It's a 1995 Honda Accord sedan, automatic transmission, inline 4. For the past 6 years or so, when you take a turn at a certain angle and a certain amount of acceleration and a certain amount of speed, it'll make something like a rhythmic grinding sound until you straighten the wheel and escape the turn. It happens far more often on left turns than right turns.
Adding to the oddity, say you are getting ready to take a left turn. Now if you are at a turn where the angle, acceleration and speed necessary to make the sound -- the sound can be completely avoided if you accelerate straight, let go of the accelerator, then use the momentum to turn, let the wheel straighten out to complete the turn, then begin to accelerate again.
A while ago I took it to a major repair center and they took out all the axles and some how concluded that it was the transmission. I really don't understand how it could be that, as the car shifts fine, and the sound never occurs when going straight. This past week, I took it to another mechanic, and he concluded that it was the axle shaft on the left side, maybe the axle shaft on the right.
So I had the left axle shaft replaced. I drove it home and didn't notice it, thought it worked; the mechanic himself drove the car around for hours after and didn't notice anything. Just to be sure, I take the car into a cul-de-sac that has the perfect turn angle to make the sound. Guess what, it's still there, albeit muted a little bit.
I am wondering if it's worth it to fix the other axle shaft, how it's possible that it could be the transmission, or if it's anything else that's possibly wrong. Again, this sound has been going on for years. I am completely frustrated and want it gone. I am thinking about making a video with the sound...
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I have a 2003 Honda Accord LX with 96K miles on it. As the weather has gotten colder, my car radio is turning itself on. I walked out last week to a frigid 19 degrees here in KY to the blaring sound of my radio on in the car. There was no one in the car and no key in the ignition, rather the key was in my hand. This has continued to be a problem and occurs sporadically during the day. I have tried turning the radio on/off, keeping the volume down, but regardless, even the clock face panel turns itself on.
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I have a 1998 Honda Accord that intermittently won't start. When the issue occurs the dashboard lights, radio, etc all work just fine, but the engine won't turn over (no clicking, no noise at all). It's standard vehicle, but I definitely have my foot all the way to the floor to depress the clutch safety switch. The issue only seems to occur when the car is warm (i.e. it never happens on the first start in the morning), although it's been known to happen even after 2hrs of cooling down. The issue used to only occur 1 out of 100 starts, but now it's getting closer to 1 out of 4 times. I'm able to get the car going by jump starting it, but that's getting old.
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We are only one week in to owning our 2006 Prius! Question is why does it sound like a motor whirring sound after turning it off? It only lasts 20 to 30 seconds, just wondering if this is a normal sound?
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I have a 2006 Honda Accord that just today started acting weird. I was driving 70mph on the highway and noticed the car was "tugging" a bit. I looked down and the RPMs kept revving up to 5-6k and accelerating while the cruise control was set at 70.
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I have an 06 Honda Accord sedan...lately I have been having a rather serious problem with wet carpet after driving long distances with the air conditioner on.It became so serious on a 4 hr trip in 90 degree weather that the carpet became so saturated that the water actually caused the (PCM) Power control module located beneath the center console to short out, causing the car to loose all power and stranding me in the middle of nowhere. The car was towed to the nearest Honda dealer and after a week they finally replaced the PCM. I had noticed wet carpet recently but not to this extent. I suspected some type of condensation from the air conditioner. The dealer dismissed this theory and implied that I had left the windows down in the rain, which was not the case. After getting the car back I conducted a test. After completely drying out the carpet, I took it on a road trip with the air on and sure enough the carpet was again soaked.
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Having issues with mostly in town driven sedan re sluggish starts. Replaced battery about a year ago. Seems to be related to fuel delivery? Wife has said pumping the gas pedal a few times prior to start up works.
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Had to replace battery, normally would push the sound button till it beeps---then hit #4 preset button to set hour,etc. Well, my sound button does not beep and my clock display just keeps flashing. This problem is on a 2006 Honda accord V6.
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My son-in-law has a 2006 Honda Accord with over 160,000 miles on it. About 8 months ago, the check engine light came on. The code said the down stream oxygen sensor was bad. He took it to a Honda dealer and they replaced the sensor and now the check engine light is back on with the same code. Can the catalytic converter have gone bad and can it have made the oxygen sensor go bad too?
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I have a 2003 Honda Accord V6 that has some acceleration hesitation and general jerkiness, usually noticeable when the car has been sitting for a long period of time (overnight). The symptoms seem to dissipate after 5 - 10 minutes of driving.
When I begin accelerating, the car feels like it hesitates when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. If I let off the gas a bit, then the car jerks a bit.
I'm sure it's not the transmission, because the dealer said the fluid and everything looks fine. Additionally, I have another Accord (2000) that does have a failing transmission and the symptoms on that one are very different from this 2003.
A couple of months ago, I was getting a CEL and had a friend of mine read the code with his OBD tool. It indicated that Bank 1 Sensor 1 was bad. I replaced it with a Denso. I think the problem got better at that point, but has "worsened" again over the past month or so.
Any clues what this might be? Things I can try? Ways to narrow down the issue?
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My wife's 2006 Honda Accord makes a strange noise when accelerating. The best I can describe it is that it sounds like Woooo. It does not make this sound when driven at a constant speed. The car is in great shape and does not appear to have any mechanical or electrical problems.
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I have been experiencing a vibration in my car at highway speeds (50mph+). Vibration is only present when the engine is under load, IE, i am accelerating, maintaining highway speed, or climbing a hill. Vibration is not present if I put the car in neutral and rev the engine. Vibration initially seemed to come from the rear, but it now is present over the entire car, steering wheel, pedals, seats, dash, etc... The vibration is getting progressively worst and appears at lower speeds than when first noticed at 70k. Taken to the dealer then, did a wheel balance and alignment didn't fix the problem, unable to diagnose and said bring it back when it's worst (about 200$).
Now at 92k and running out of my 100k warranty. Taken back to the dealership, they told me to change catalytic converter (not under warranty) (75$diagnosis fee) and O2 censor (for 1000$), so I had a reputable mechanic in town do that (420$), problem still there. I took it back to the dealership, they said my cyl2 has a misfire, and to change plugs... so i had them do that (120$, 10%off, waived the diagnosis fee), of course... problem still there. They then suggested it was my snow tires, I replied it has been through 4 sets of tires (two snows, two summers, and all the alignments, balances, rotations associated with that)... problem still there... (and if it was tiring, it would vibrate at speed all the time, not just when you are giving the engine gas)...
I am bringing the car back to them this week, they are going to put a set of their tires on the car and see if it may be a wheel bearing... again, this does not seem right to me... if it's a bearing, wouldn't that be a condition present all the time, and even (or progressively worst) through speeds...
they told me they have checked the struts (my first guess) and they look OK, as well as the engine mounts (my second guess) look OK.
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My husband and I just bought a 2006 Accord Hybrid with 123,000 miles on it. The IMA and check engine lights came on two days later. I had the diagnostic check done on it and the code for battery pack deterioration came up. I read online where this code could be caused by the 12-volt battery going bad, and as it had the original battery in it, and the check on that showed it needed to be replaced, we did that. Two days later, the lights were on again. So we know we're going to have to replace the battery pack, which we're okay with, but what we want to know is whether the car will still run once that battery is completely shot. So far, it's still showing a good charge on it - whether that means anything, I don't know. Also, if it will run without the IMA component, will we be doing any damage to the car if we let it go for a few weeks?
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