Honda - Accord :: 2006 - Making Vibrations While In Neutral And Rev The Engine
Jan 31, 2012
I have been experiencing a vibration in my car at highway speeds (50mph+). Vibration is only present when the engine is under load, IE, i am accelerating, maintaining highway speed, or climbing a hill. Vibration is not present if I put the car in neutral and rev the engine. Vibration initially seemed to come from the rear, but it now is present over the entire car, steering wheel, pedals, seats, dash, etc... The vibration is getting progressively worst and appears at lower speeds than when first noticed at 70k. Taken to the dealer then, did a wheel balance and alignment didn't fix the problem, unable to diagnose and said bring it back when it's worst (about 200$).
Now at 92k and running out of my 100k warranty. Taken back to the dealership, they told me to change catalytic converter (not under warranty) (75$diagnosis fee) and O2 censor (for 1000$), so I had a reputable mechanic in town do that (420$), problem still there. I took it back to the dealership, they said my cyl2 has a misfire, and to change plugs... so i had them do that (120$, 10%off, waived the diagnosis fee), of course... problem still there. They then suggested it was my snow tires, I replied it has been through 4 sets of tires (two snows, two summers, and all the alignments, balances, rotations associated with that)... problem still there... (and if it was tiring, it would vibrate at speed all the time, not just when you are giving the engine gas)...
I am bringing the car back to them this week, they are going to put a set of their tires on the car and see if it may be a wheel bearing... again, this does not seem right to me... if it's a bearing, wouldn't that be a condition present all the time, and even (or progressively worst) through speeds...
they told me they have checked the struts (my first guess) and they look OK, as well as the engine mounts (my second guess) look OK.
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I have a 2002 honda accord I4 coupe (ULEV edition) with a peculiar problem. The problem is that the pistons are pushing down too hard on the connecting rod/crank shaft bearings (creating a banging noise when I drive or accelerate in neutral). It could be a timing issue (spark igniting too early?) but the check engine light is not on.
I have had a mechanic look at the engine and they have determined that
1) Oil pressure is normal
2) Bearing clearance is good (meets specification)
3) Cam timing is good.
4) Balance shaft clearance is good
5) Thrust clearance is good
The mechanics are not sure what is causing the problem. What else to check? Seafoam was added to the gas tank weeks before the problem surfaced. Could the car's computer be damaged?
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My car stalled one day like I was in a high gear at too low of a speed when i was in neutral. It now acts as if it is in a high gear all the time when I am in neutral. When I press the clutch it will idle like it is supposed to but when i let off it pushes forward slightly then stalls exactly like it would if i was in 4th or 5th gear. When I shift into 1st 2nd 3rd or reverse it dies as if it is in gear but will not move even slightly, when I shift into 4th or 5th it again dies but it but is acting just as I would expect 4th or 5t to at a complete stop i feel slightly more power in 4th which is expected being a lower gear but I also feel 5th pull just like its supposed to. I cannot get it to come out of the high gear it is in even though i can move the stick into the neutral position. It is difficult to get the shifter into 4th or 5th but it will move into the other positions like it should with the same no power result. My clutch is fairly new and i have tried inspecting my sift linkage wit no obvious problems. (1991 honda accord lx 5 spd, 2.2 sohc)
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My wife's 2006 Honda Accord makes a strange noise when accelerating. The best I can describe it is that it sounds like Woooo. It does not make this sound when driven at a constant speed. The car is in great shape and does not appear to have any mechanical or electrical problems.
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I have a 2007 Honda Accord. A few weeks ago, it started making a whistling noise whenever I was in reverse, however, it would stop when I hit the brakes. Then I notices a very similar noise while driving, again if I break, it stop. Also, if I go over 45mph or so, it stops. Just yesterday I notices a grinding noise/feeling when braking but only when the brake all the way down. What this could be?
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My car started making a loud, high pitched "whooping" and "whining" noise when making corners. The pitch is medium to high and variable. It kind of sounds like wet rubber on glass (like a squeegee). The first time it happened I thought it was a police siren, like when they sound the siren in short bursts "whoop! whoop!". But now the sound is more like a prolonged whine/groan. The sound might be coming from the steering column, but I can't be sure. Its definitely on the driver's side and in the front.
The sound is not related to braking. It doesn't happen on every turn. It can happen when starting from a stop or when already in motion. It happens on both flat ground and hills. At first it seemed to happen on cold days and only in the morning. I think this might have been a coincidence since now it happens throughout the day, every day.
My car is a 1993 honda accord with approximately 315,000 miles.
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I have a 2002 Honda Accord coupe with 130K miles on it. A few days ago the AC started to make a loud roaring noise when it is turned on full blast. As you turn it down the noise gets quieter and when the fan is on low the roaring noise stops. Other than making this sound it is running fine and there are no other issues/noises coming from the car. What is causing this noise?
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My right front disc brake started making a squeaking noise at about 50,000 miles when I applied the brakes. It was on and off at first but became more frequent. It wasn't a grinding noise and it wasn't the sensors for a low pad. I changed the pads and after about 2 weeks I started getting a grinding noise when I'd apply the brakes. I checked the pads and they were fine. After a few months I replaced the pads, grinding happened again after a few weeks of wear. Within the next few months I replaced the pads again, each time trying different types. Had the rotors turned recently and again, new pads. The grinding is gone but after a few weeks the brake makes a chirping sound now when applied. They work fine in stopping the car.
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I have a 2013 Honda Accord that 3 times over the last 30 days the power steering has quit working while making a left or right turn from a stop. Once I muscle the car out of the intersection, I can turn it off and then restart the engine which seems to reset the steering. All 3 times I have taken it back to the Honda service center of the dealer where I purchased it, and all 3 times they can find absolutely nothing wrong with it.
Honda's policy is that they won't fix/replace anything unless they have a direct problem to fix. This is getting frustrating because I consider it a safety issue. Now I don't know what to do. They refuse to do anything until they can see the car with the issue. If it ever happens at a time when I can leave it running and have them send a tow truck to pick it up, I will. But that could take months, years or never.
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My clutch peddle made a slight "snap" sound last night and now it is very difficult to get the car to engage in a gear while sitting still, while moving it does ok, but not nearly as smooth as it should be. The other odd occurrence is that while the motor is running and the car is not moving, you can't shift any gears at all, but as soon as you cut the motor, all 5 gears and reverse are easily accessible. Why the sound at the peddle and the trouble in the gear shift mechanism? I am only an advanced beginner with car repair, but I think think this is really bad... 2007 Honda Accord Manual Transmission
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I have a 2007 Elantra with 138,000 miles. I never had any slipping or jerking or reverse issues in the past. I got into the car put it in reverse just fine then put it in drive and nothing happened, I put it in park and the car kept rolling like in neutral and started making a loud grinding noise. When I put the transmission in any other gear the noise stops but will not move and acts as if in neutral.
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I just recently bought a used 1993 Toyota Corolla LE from a private individual. The guy said the vibration was caused by a crack in the front bumper but I think it is much more than that. The vibration is present all the time, but much worse when the car in in park or neutral. It has an automatic transmission. What could be causing the vibration?
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1991 Honda Accord DX A/T A/C. The engine is surging/searching at idle in park and in neutral from 1000 up to 2400. There are no engine fault codes.
I have cleaned the IAC, adjusted the TPS, Removed/Cleaned/Re-installed the TB, No MAP problem. I also removed the "black box" and checked the cold idle control diaphragm as best I could. I cannot find any specs on testing this. When I apply vacuum to it via the center port on the bottom it holds the vacuum, but takes approx 5 seconds for the diaphragm to "pop" to its ambient state after releasing vacuum.
I have sprayed all possible vacuum hoses along with all intake gaskets to test for vacuum leaks.
I have attached a diagram of the black smog box that is mounted on the firewall. The cold idle diaphragm is labeled as 2. I also have concerns about that electrical vacuum solenoid labeled 27.
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I have a 2006 azera limited 63k miles on it and I'm getting a rough idle that sounds worse when the weather is cold. also when I press the gas there is hesitation from the car to accelerate. on top of that, I feel vibrations from the engine all through the driver and passenger seat. When I turn the car on it idles at 1300-1500 rpm and takes about 5-7 minutes to come down. when it does , it idles at 650 rpm. I'm not getting any check engine lights or codes. I've replaced spark plugs, air filter, had the air induction service done at the dealership, and had to have Hyundai put on a new throttle body last march when it gave out on me while at work. the dealership doesn't know what it is and said to use a fuel additive when I fill up the tank. I have and am waiting to see if that does anything. I put in a bottle of CRC 1 Tank fuel system cleaner 2 days ago. I've even changed my brand of gas from exxon to bp just in case. I think it may be a bad hose for the idle and a bad motor mount for the vibration. Could an O2 sensor be going bad?
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Searched through old threads but didn't come across these in particular, a lot to look through so may have missed in Car has 270 miles on it.
1) When clutch is in all the way and the car is revved, I can feel it in my left foot. This can be felt when car is stationary or in motion - Is this common for MK6/R? I don't recall being able to feel this in my MKV GTI
2) When the car is in motion, I hear a knock noise right after the clutch is pressed in. I can only hear the noise if windows are open and stereo is off, and this only occurs while the car is in motion. - Is this a standard clutch noise for healthy clutch/pp/flywheel/throw-out bearing on this platform, or should there be no noises? It sounds like something I'd expect to hear with a messed up throw-out bearing.
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MKV R32? I take Hwy 17 to and from work. It's a pretty curvy road with some of tight turns (fun) and a number of slight turns that have a little incline. Whenever I make a slight right turn (like a long sweeper), I feel a slight vibration under the pedals and it feels like the car is grinding.
It only happens on those slight turns at 50-65mph and I can only replicate the vibrations on a curvier road......The car is smooth as silk around town, on the interstate but not when it comes to those right hand sweepers.
The car has no problem taking full right hand turns or even handling a right hand hairpin. Could it be my tires?wheel bearings? alignment?need my tires rotated? I took it to the dealer and the mechanic and I couldn't replicate the problem on the interstate. The car has 8900 miles on it and I will need to take it in for service soon.
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I have a 2005 C-280 4Matic wagon that I purchased used a year ago. In the last few days I've noticed a vibration and low frequency growl when I turn into a parking spot, pull out of said spot while turning the wheel, doing a K turn etc. It's the kind of sound you hear on 4 wheel drive cars when the wheel is at it's maximum revolution during a turn.
I can't tell if this has always been happening and I am just noticing it now, or if something happened!
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Right now, 1 out of every 3 attempts at starting this car results in the starter motor not turning over. When it does turn over, the engine fires up just fine. Tried putting the transmission range switch in Neutral and it makes no difference. In neutral or park, when the starter does not run and with the volt meter on the starter solenoid terminal there is no 12 volts . Looking at the electrical diagram of the starting system, it appears that I have a bad ignition switch or bad starter cut relay.
I think I will opt for the starter cut relay first because the ignition switch seems like a daunting task. But I don't know where this relay is located. Did some research on the web and it seems it should be near the fuse block which is located under the dash on the left hand side of the drivers position. I see the fuse block and above it is a 1 x 2 inch gray block that looks like it could be the relay in question. I can just reach it but can't seem to pull it out. Need toconfirm that this is indeed the relay, how to get it out, I can bench test it.
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I have a 2006 Honda Accord that just today started acting weird. I was driving 70mph on the highway and noticed the car was "tugging" a bit. I looked down and the RPMs kept revving up to 5-6k and accelerating while the cruise control was set at 70.
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I have an 06 Honda Accord sedan...lately I have been having a rather serious problem with wet carpet after driving long distances with the air conditioner on.It became so serious on a 4 hr trip in 90 degree weather that the carpet became so saturated that the water actually caused the (PCM) Power control module located beneath the center console to short out, causing the car to loose all power and stranding me in the middle of nowhere. The car was towed to the nearest Honda dealer and after a week they finally replaced the PCM. I had noticed wet carpet recently but not to this extent. I suspected some type of condensation from the air conditioner. The dealer dismissed this theory and implied that I had left the windows down in the rain, which was not the case. After getting the car back I conducted a test. After completely drying out the carpet, I took it on a road trip with the air on and sure enough the carpet was again soaked.
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Having issues with mostly in town driven sedan re sluggish starts. Replaced battery about a year ago. Seems to be related to fuel delivery? Wife has said pumping the gas pedal a few times prior to start up works.
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