My 2005 Accord steering wheel shakes quite a bit when I start to accelerate. I had the tires rebalanced, and it's still happening. The dealership indicated that there was "play" in both axles, and they both needed to be replaced ..... There's 85,000 miles on the vehicle and it's in excellent condition, could this shaking be caused by something else ?
View 5 RepliesI have 2009 Honda Accord with approximately 66,000 miles (I drive 70 miles r/t to work every day). I had service done on my car the other day to get the front brake rotors replaced and four new tires. Upon receiving my car and driving to Boston the car began to shake at highway speeds (50+). I took it back to the mechanic and they re-balanced the tires. I drove to work the next day and the car still shakes (albeit now at 60+). Today the mechanic rotated the tires in case there was a bent rim in the front causing this. However, on my drive today the car still shakes (though it's not as violent or noticeable as the trip to Boston).
View 10 RepliesI have a 1998 Honda Accord 4 cylinder with roughly 150k miles. When the weather is cold outside the steering wheel will shake until the car warms up. I have taken the car into the shop and they checked the engine mounts, tie rods, etc and they told me that the car is fine. The tires are not unbalanced nor are they packed with dirt or debris. The vibration only occurs when the car is cold and it goes away once the car warms up. Also, the vibration will stop when I simply place a small amount of pressure on the steering wheel with my hand or knee. The vibration does not occur when I am driving at low or high speeds and it usually only occurs when I am stopped at stop signs or lights.
I have done the regular maintenance on the vehicle and I have replaced the timing belt, spark plugs/ wires, belt(s), etc, if that make a difference.
I own a '90 Honda Accord and it constantly shakes, has poor acceleration and seems to use too much gas. I thought it was the catalytic converter and I installed a high flow cat. The fuel pump went out so I had that replaced. It shakes less since replacing the cat but I still see the gas gauge go down too low when I press on the gas and the car will stall and stop as I get to "E" when normally I was able to drive many miles past "E". Any guesses? I'm wondering if I need to replace the fuel pressure regulator.
View 6 RepliesIncosistently when accelerating the car jerks (like when wheels spin out in rain). Car works just fine in Idle and has been working great, except for the occassional jerking. I would like to know what I should check and if its dangerous to drive, depending on what the problem might be.
View 5 RepliesMy wife drives a 2010 Honda Civic LX sedan with about 18k miles. She mentioned that its steering wheel started shaking a couple of weeks ago when driving at about 60 miles/hour at the same streth of the road during her daily commute. She did experience the problem during rest of her drive at lower speed. I drive the car about once a week at lower than 45 miles/hour and had no problem. I have checked the tires and noticed nothing obvious.
View 1 Repliesdrive an '05 sc430 and the steering wheel shakes at above 50mph when I lightly step on the brakes. I have recently had my brakes done and an alignment done as well as both rear shocks replaced.
View 14 Replies2000 Honda Accord - will go to put the key into the ignition, key slips right in, but will not turn. The steering wheel is locked. This has been happening intermittently for a few months with no improvement. Sometime it will take me 10-30 minutes of wiggling the key, turning the steering wheel, etc until the steering wheel unlocks and key turns in the ignition. My patience is wearing and I'm concerned that it will eventually get to the point where it won't turn at all! I've tried with an alternate key and same results.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2003 Honda Accord. I've had an issue with steering wheel vibration for the past 10 months. In that time, I've installed new hubcentric rings for my after market wheels, gotten my tires balanced, bought a whole new set of tires all together, and changed my cv axles twice. I still experience vibration in the steering wheel when I get up to 60 mph and all the way up to 80 mph. At times I have had vibration at low speeds, around 20 mph, but that was solved first when I installed the hubcentric rings, and again most recently with this second set of cv axles. Am I missing something or will I have to chase a solution to this problem until I am bankrupt?
View 2 RepliesI have a problem with vibration in steering wheel and at speeds of 50 to 60 mph. It also vibrates at idle. This problem did not start until we had new brakes and rotors turn. We also have had tires rotated and balance. They told us we needed new motor mounts. We had them replace and the shake got worse. They replaced the front axles and the transmission mount. I also bought two new tires.
This started out when we took our car to have the tires rotated and balance. The Mechanic told us we needed new brakes, so we took it to get this done. we are now having all kinds of problems as I stated above. Took it to the Honda place here and one person told us it was not worth fixing. I do not believe this. The car has a little over a 115,000 miles on it. I have been driving a Honda since 1992. This car we bought new and I know it has been service.. One person at the Honda place here said he could replace all the mounts and would not promise it would fix it. We have even had one of the new tires replace because they said it was bad.
What causes a whirring sound in the front of the car when I turn the steering wheel? It happens first thing when I start in the morning but goes away.
View 3 RepliesThe power steering on my car is failing intermittently. There is no secret thing to do to make it fail. It's mostly at low/no speed like when pulling into a parking spot. Thus far, I have had the pump replaced twice, pressure valve switch, and the rack and pinion replaced. My mechanic of 10 years is stumped as to what is happening.
View 14 RepliesMy girlfriend has a 2007, v6, Honda Accord. She had difficulty turning the steering wheel, accompanied with a loud noise. She took it to a local garage and they diagnosed it as a leak in the power steering hose which she had replaced for about $400. When she used the car the following day, the problem was still there and seemed to be a little worse. She called the garage and they said for her to bring the car back which we'll be doing tomorrow. Also, coincidentally, we saw that Honda issued a recall for this. [URL] ...... As a result, we have the following questions:
-Is there any recourse for full or partial reimbursement from Honday? After all, if we took it to Honda, then Honda dealer would bill Honda Manufacturer anway.
-Should garages be familiar with recalls?
-Assuming the local garage fixes the problem, do you recommend that we still take it to the dealership?
I own a Honda 2009 Accord EXL with about 25,000 miles. Over the last 5 years a problem has occurred randomly (at least 8 times) and up to last week I was able to over come it. The problem is: when attempting to start the car you find that the steering wheel, shift lever, and ignition key lock are all "locked" up. Nothing can be moved or turned. Thus you can not start or move the car. Up until last week I would jiggle the steering wheel or the shift lever and it would unlock. I took it to the Honda dealer after the first few times and they all but laughed at me . Then last week nothing I did could to get the devices unlocked.
I called the local dealer and he advised having it towed in, which I did. When the tow truck driver arrived he showed me the hidden compartment next to the shift lever and inserted the key. This did unlock the steering wheel sufficiently that we could get the car aligned with the tow truck. And I was able to insert the key and start the engine. But when I attempted to shift the car it acted as if it remained in neutral. In other words the engine roared but no motion no matter which gear I selected. We managed to get the car onto the tow truck and delivered to the dealer. Of course when the dealer looked at it, all was well no problem.
The dealer kept the car and "went over everything" and "found nothing wrong". They said they "have never experienced" this problem before and their home office confirmed that. The Dealer's solution: If you park the car, shift to Park, and turn it off and then turn the steering wheel counterclockwise hard, a click is heard and the whole car is locked up. The dealer showed me that by pushing hard on the brake, forcibly turning the wheel, and at the same time playing with the ignition key with a little luck it all unlocks. (Notice he did not indicate using the hidden compartment trick.)
I find it strange that the dealer has "never ever experienced this issue", yet has a "work around"!! Though I must admit it does work when you purposely "lock" the steering wheel (the random act has not occurred again so far). My question : is there some fault to the electronic (or other) sub systems which should be fixed? I just hate to have my wife out alone and run into the situation again.
2005 Honda Accord Growls When Cold/CoolLast winter on real cold days (okay, real cold in Houston, TX, means around freezing to about 40 degrees), a loud growl came from under the hood. The growl stayed until things under the hood warmed up a little. While it was warming, the growling would slowly diminish; however, if the steering wheel was deflected, it would aggravate the growling noise. I checked the fluid in the power steering pump, and it was fine. I did some on-line research, and it appears that the Honda's power steering pump's bearings might be going bad. Is there anything that can be done preemptively to avoid the expense of replacing the power steering pump? (I hear they are expensive to replace.) Last month I was in Kansas City and the growl was barely audible on a 64 degree morning. I fear it is getting worse and will not last long.
View 2 RepliesI have an '05 Honda Odyssey, that has a wobble in the steering wheel, when I am going more than 60 mph. It has 87K miles on it. Tires seem smooth. Below 40mph it is not there or un-noticable. There is no pulling left or right, it does not seem to get worse if I go from 60 to 80.
View 2 RepliesAbout 2 weeks ago, my 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 4.7L, was running fine. The very next morning, it's 4.7l engine has a very obvious misfire situation where it's hesitating badly, especially under acceleration at lower rpms, with the shaking feeling in the steering wheel etc etc. I have Advanced Auto parts and 2 separate auto shops plug in their little boxes to find the problem codes. The check engine light came on and stayed on as soon as this issue began. The codes they got were consistent from place to place: 1. Misfire on cylinders 4 & 6, and 2. Random multiple misfire.
So I go and buy 2 brand new coils for cylinder 4 and 6, and 8 new champion plugs. I was in Florida for a week, so the truck was NOT driven at all after the day this problem began. So I replace all 8 plugs and install the 2 new coils, but it makes NO DIFFERENCE. It's still hesitating just like before. Today I take it to Goodyear to have them do an allegedly thorough evaluation. They use their little code box and they get the same codes as mentioned above about random multiple misfire and misfire on cup 4 and 6.
Then the mechanic takes the truck for a ride and experiences the same hesitation and shaking under acceleration. So he replaces both of the new coils I had installed with their coils and replaced the 2 new plugs, just to make sure there was no issue with these new parts. He takes it out and apparently plugs in a different computer that monitors all engine functions, including air/fuel mixture, spark etc. According to that computer, the truck is running properly(according to them), and he checks compression and says it's good. So what's wrong, and he said that my car's computer was reset so the check engine is no longer on(I am not clear the how's and whys of that part). But the important thing is that it's still running badly and they can't tell me why it's running badly!
The mechanic said maybe a lifter collapsed or there is sludge that's causing an issue, but no solid explanation. Supposedly the 4.7L Dodge engine has a sludge issue experienced by some owners, and the mechanic recommended replacing the oil every 1500 miles instead of 3000. By the way, I asked how much it would cost for Goodyear to check the lifters and check under the valve cover, but he said they don't do that.
My 2005 Honda Civic just made it through a blizzard (outside the whole time). This morning I started driving it, and whenever I got above 45 mph the steering wheel started vibrating / whobbling very badly. My car seat was also vibrating. I poured hot water over the rims when I got home and that did not seem to work. Should I take it to a car wash? Is my car safe to drive?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 honda accord. v6. 148,000 miles. For a few years now my car has been doing this thing where I start it, it shakes, then shuts off. I have to rev the engine for awhile to get it to start. I've taken it in at least 5 times and nobody can figure it out. It happens sporadically (seems to be more so when I'm running errands so starting and turning it off a lot). It may happen once every few months, maybe twice in one week. Now, I recently got an oil leak. Replaced valve cover gaskets, which I was told the main source of the leak and originally they thought the oil filter housing was leaking but it's the oil pump. Is it worth replacing the oil pump on this car, given the first problem?
View 7 RepliesI drive a 2003 Honda Accord and it shakes violently whenever I'm accelerating between 55 and 65 mph. If you put a shaker on the passenger seat, you'd have a martini. Approaching 55, it's fine, and then it shakes as I go up to 65 and then smooths out when I pass 65. If I am cruising, but not accelerating in between 55 and 65, it stops shaking, but once I hit the gas, it shakes.
The same phenomenon occurs in both third and fourth gears, so it doesn't appear to be related to what part of the power band the car is in. This model Accord had a recall on the engine mounts, which I had replaced at no small cost already.
We took our car in for a regular oil change and to get the 60K belt work done. While in the car they discovered that the transmission was slipping and that we were missing one of the motor mounts. They did the belt work and the oil change and then put some fluid in our car hoping that would buy us some time with our transmission. To save us time and money they said we could wait a little while on the motor mount. When I drove it home the whole car shifted and shook whenever we would come to a stop and then it would shake while idling. I called our mechanic back and they said to bring it in and that fixing the rear motor mount should take care of the problem. While back at the mechanic for the motor mount they discovered that the transmission additive had not worked and we needed a new one.
We bought a rebuilt one and now we are still left with a car that shakes when we are idling. We have had the car in two or three times after the transmission was put in for them to try and fix the issue. They have done everything short of removing the engine without any luck. Just to be sure they covered every possible angle, they just gave us new spark plugs, ignition wires, distributor rotor, distributor cap and PCV valve, but it didn't seem to do anything. The car shakes the most while idling in Drive, somewhat less in Park, somewhat less than that in Neutral and not at all in Reverse. The shaking gets even stronger if the A/C or defroster is turned on. It seems to be even worse when stopped on a downward slope. It has been several months of this and the shaking is incredibly annoying. Is there anything else our mechanic could look into?