Honda - Accord :: 2005 - Howling / Loud Whine When Started In Very Cold Weather
Jan 27, 2014
My 2005 Accord V-6 makes a howling (actually a loud whine) when started in very cold weather (e.g., below 25 degrees). The sound goes a way after a few miles driving. It appears to come from a small "pump" looking thing at the top and on the left (facing the car) of the engine, which is attached to a pulley. My mechanic - although he did not actually hear it - says it's nothing to worry about; it's just the cold.
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My daughter owns a 1992 Honda Accord wagon, she cannot get it to start on colder days. Sometimes she goes out and runs a hair dryer over the engine, it works, but it is getting worse. Her husband says that is ridiculous to do.
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I have a 2010 Honda Accord that is having issues with metal rattling when there is cold weather. I believe the rattling is coming from the heat plates where the exhaust pipe starts. However, I have taken it to the Honda Dealership in San Antonio. They cannot find where the noise is coming from the car. The issue has been occurring for the last 2 years. On top of that, my oil light is coming on. I am not sure if the oil light and the heavy metal rattling are linked (properly not). I would like to get this fixed.
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I have a 1998 Honda Accord 4 cylinder with roughly 150k miles. When the weather is cold outside the steering wheel will shake until the car warms up. I have taken the car into the shop and they checked the engine mounts, tie rods, etc and they told me that the car is fine. The tires are not unbalanced nor are they packed with dirt or debris. The vibration only occurs when the car is cold and it goes away once the car warms up. Also, the vibration will stop when I simply place a small amount of pressure on the steering wheel with my hand or knee. The vibration does not occur when I am driving at low or high speeds and it usually only occurs when I am stopped at stop signs or lights.
I have done the regular maintenance on the vehicle and I have replaced the timing belt, spark plugs/ wires, belt(s), etc, if that make a difference.
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I have been having problems with a loud whining noise when I steer in cold weather (approx 35 degrees F) and only after the car has warmed up. Now, before everyone tells me about the Honda Service bulletin addressing this problem, I will tell you I had the Power Steering reservoir replaced at 65K miles, per the service bulletin. However, the problem came BACK after another 35K on the van. The dealership then replaced the inlet pipe O-ring on the power steering pump which ended up NOT fixing the problem. So I still have a fairly new power steering reservoir, a new O-ring AND the loud whine. Am I doomed to replace this every 35K miles or is there some other problem that is buried deeper than the PS reservoir? (And the loud whine you hear really is coming from the van....but soon I might be joining it.)
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2005 Honda Accord Growls When Cold/CoolLast winter on real cold days (okay, real cold in Houston, TX, means around freezing to about 40 degrees), a loud growl came from under the hood. The growl stayed until things under the hood warmed up a little. While it was warming, the growling would slowly diminish; however, if the steering wheel was deflected, it would aggravate the growling noise. I checked the fluid in the power steering pump, and it was fine. I did some on-line research, and it appears that the Honda's power steering pump's bearings might be going bad. Is there anything that can be done preemptively to avoid the expense of replacing the power steering pump? (I hear they are expensive to replace.) Last month I was in Kansas City and the growl was barely audible on a 64 degree morning. I fear it is getting worse and will not last long.
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I have a 2000 Honda Accord LX V6 auto with about 125k on it.It seems to me that when I'm going downhill for example - so I am not giving it gas - it feels like its running rough - sort of. It kind of feels like the brakes are being applied then released, applied then released.Now, once summer arrived and I had to start using the AC all the time, after the car was warmed up and having run for 20+ minutes, it would REALLY start running rough. I watch the tachometer and it bounces up and down. When I turn off the car for awhile like to go into the grocery store, when I come out and try to start it, it wont. It just cranks but wont catch. If I do manage to get it to catch, it stalls. I have managed to get it to catch-apply the gas and pop it in to drive and make it home, but something is obviously very wrong and I don't want to get stuck somewhere. I have a code reader and the car has not produced any codes.
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I have a 99 Accord, automatic trans with over 197,000 miles, appropriately maintained.
What is the most likely cause of a very high pitched whine that comes up when throttle is being added? Here are some facts: -This is not a constant, or even a daily occurrence. Very randomized. I think I first noticed it over a year and a half ago (20,000 miles).-The sound will continue if the transmission is put in neutral and the RPM maintained (usually 2,000 - 2,500).-If the A/C is on when the sound happens, it will go away when I turn the A/C off.-When the sound is happening, there are no adverse symptoms to go with it. The car runs and drives quite well. Well, this issue is just that inconsistent.
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I just had my 2003 Honda Accord Ex in the shop. I was without my car for a week. I broke down on the highway and had to have it towed, not once but twice. I took it to a reputable Honda/Acura repair shop. It turns out the ECU was corroded and the A/C drain was plugged up. I was not aware of the design of the Honda in this area, however, with the A/C unit being above the ECU in makes it easy to destroy the ECU if there is any problem with the A/C. Seems to me that Honda might have wanted to recall this to put plastic between the 2 to prevent the corrosion of the ECU or something, however, no such luck. The mechanic pointed out that the carpet on the passenger side was damp and to check it. Who would a thunk?
I got the car back yesterday. After running the diagnostic equipment they had to replace the ECU and ignition responders, put plastic between it and the A/C unit, replace the spark plugs (apparently the wrong ones were installed), and #4 coil, have the keys reprogrammed, replace the A/C filter and clean the A/C drain. Now here is the rub..I got it back and drove down the block. There was a high pitched whine or whistle sound that occurred when I accelerated. And the same sound when I took my foot off the petal as it was slowing down.
I immediately drove back to the shop and the mechanic and I took a drive. He had heard it also before I got it back. He mentioned it might be the transmission and that if it needs replacing. The car has 170,000 miles on it and it the past 2 months I have had new tires. He suggested I drive it over the long weekend (Labor Day) then make an appt to bring it in next week to have the transmission checked. So here is my concern, if it is the transmission will I do more damage by driving it? Will it get worse quickly and break down thereby leaving me stranded again? What is the best thing to do?
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I have a 2003 Honda Accord LX with 96K miles on it. As the weather has gotten colder, my car radio is turning itself on. I walked out last week to a frigid 19 degrees here in KY to the blaring sound of my radio on in the car. There was no one in the car and no key in the ignition, rather the key was in my hand. This has continued to be a problem and occurs sporadically during the day. I have tried turning the radio on/off, keeping the volume down, but regardless, even the clock face panel turns itself on.
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i have an 04 f-150 with a 5.4 motor. about 2000 miles ago the power steering pump started to whine really loud. I sucked out the power steering fluid and started it up and the fluid that back into the tank looked like it was gritty and rusty. I replaced it out a few times and no change. I then did the job of replacing the power steering pump which was about a 5 hour job.
It was quiet for about 5 miles and the new one started whining. Every week I have been sucking out the old fluid and replacing it and it still seems to be gritty. What could I do to quiet it down? the steering works perfect btw. I am looking at selling this truck and buying an 09 or newer ford and want to quiet it down before selling it. The truck has 88,000 miles on it and i am the original owner.
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I've saw several complaints about 2008 Honda Accord Popping at low braking speeds and start from stop only in hot weather. I've never saw a solution.
This is the other persons complaint: My Honda has a pop or clunk when braking at low speeds( below 5mph) just before coming to a stop. It will pop as I start forward again (below 5mph). It only occurs when the outside temperature is above 90-95 degrees and after driving for 10-15 minutes.
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Okay so let me start off my saying I purchased this car salvaged 5 yrs ago and have been doing extensive repairs on the car, new engine, suspension the works. But started having this knocking sound near my timing belt/water pump. I went into a shop and they said it was the ac compressor and it was going to cost 800 to fix, I said no because it seemed to high for a job like that and I called up my mechanic from back home (NY, I'm working down in NC). He said if the sound gets louder cut the ac/power steering belt since I don't really need it because winters coming up. I cut the belt, the sound is still there. The sound is really loud when I first start it but dies down when the engine is warm and unnoticeable on the highway. Just a side note, the ac belt has been squealing if the ac is turned on/if it's raining out also I am do for a timing belt/water pump change. I have done regular maintenance on this car, every 3500 miles with synthetic oil (spoiling the engine). I really hope I can drive it back up to NY to get it fixed by my mechanic.
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First, it's not a sticky IAC. I already experience that in cold weather and compensate simply with the gas pedal until engine warms up. However this coughing, sputtering, backfiring, misfiring problem is very severe. When it is in this state, the engine will lose rpm and stall. No way to coax it with the gas pedal to keep it running.
It happens most often when you restart the engine after having stopped somewhere for 10-30 minutes. It happens less often during a cold start in the morning. When it does this, I remove the key, and try again. Usually in 3-10 tries, the engine runs properly. Once running properly, there is never an occurrence of this.
However, today only, first cold start, it cranked and would not fire at all. Repeatedly. Jiggled the key and maybe they made it start. Ignition switch? If Neutral Switch, it should not have cranked. Perhaps my intermittent problem is worsening.
Wet weather seems to aggravate it.
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My car is making a strange whine noise. It sometimes gets so loud and sounds like sort of the generic sounds for bad cars in movies where it is a high-pitched whine sort of scrape. It has been hot and dry here. I took it to the shop one day when it was rainy and cold. When I got to the shop it was not making the noise. We could not recreate it. They took a look and said I could swap my belts, spark plugs and top off fluids. I figured it might be my belts making the noise, so I got it fixed.
Imagine my frustration when I picked up my car and the noise was back. I had the mechanic come listen and he said he could hear it but it wasn't very loud so he wasn't sure. He said it could be the steering pump or something of that nature. The noise has gotten louder and I do not know what to do. It sounds like a high-pitch eeeee whine and simultaneous scraping. It happens more when I press on the gas, and not when the car is stopped. I can't tell if it is coming from the engine or the tire or the axel. It is toward the front of the car.
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My wife and I recently moved to Panama and we bought a 4 wheel drive 2007 Nissan Frontera diesel pick-up. Great little truck so far, 27 miles per/gal! However, the 5 speed manual transmission has started making a loud whine or growl under power. Down hill, gas pedal up, no noise. Clutch in, no noise. Gas pedal down, growling .Growl is related to ground speed as it stays the same when I shift gears.
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I have a problem about which the mechanics I have asked are baffled: In cool, cloudy or sunny weather, my brakes and break-pedal pressure are fine (the mechanics have said I have good fluid, brakes, etc.--they can find nothing wrong--and, of course, it never has a problem when they test-drive my car). However, when the weather warms up and it's a bright, sunny day, my brake pedal loses pressure and slowly sinks to the floor--a dangerous thing at intersections. There's slight pressure if I pump the pedal constantly while at a light; but, without pumping, the pedal immediately sinks to the floor.
This is a real problem, because this problem always occurs right when mechanics are not near or not open for business--and none I've talked to have ever heard of such a problem. The bright, hot sun's affect seems to be key, because if it's 80 degrees outside and cloudy, I don't have the issue--but, then again, I don't usually run the air conditioner if it's cloudy. As such, I'm not positive; but, this may be tied to when I turn on the air conditioner--as though the two share the same vacuum system.
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I have a 1998 Chevrolet Prizm that will not fast idle when it is started in cold weather the first thing in morning. what could be the problem?
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I have a 2004 Subaru Forest with 181K. I have a grinding that is loud and worsening in the cold weather coming from the right rear of my car. Is this a CV Joint or a bearing issue? It is far more noticeable at low speed that high with the radio on.
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I have a 2001 Toyota Sienna xle that started running rough when the weather turned cold. When started, the car idles very high and will not shift properly until it was been running for around 5 minutes. After that it will run well for about 10-15 minutes and then begin to run rough or poorly. The problem is very noticeable at low speeds and when stopped. It never actually kills, but it feels like it is going to. At high speeds it is less noticeable but occasionally you will feel it jerk or chug like the transmission is slipping or a belt or something.
I took it to a mechanic who checked the codes and found that the ignition coils were supposedly bad. I say supposedly because they replace three of the ignition coils and the problem still persists. I then took it back to the mechanic who then told me it was the oxygen sensor. The o2 sensor was replaced and the problem is still there with no noticeable improvement. I again to it back to the mechanic who tells me that they scratching their heads.
I have done some looking around on the internet and have found some discussions that seem to have some promising leeds and actually last weeks car talk show had a caller who described a similar problem. The guys told him it could be a oxygen sensor but they thought a better possibility would be EGR valve or a vacuum leak. Not sure if this sienna has an EGR, but I plan to suggest looking into it to the mechanic. Also, I found some discussions talking about the idle control valve and the engine control module.
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Title pretty much says it. When its COLD it surges while idling upon start up. It goes away once you start driving it and the engine warms up. Other than that it runs great. Its got about 235 K with a replacement motor that has about 100k. I've had it about a year. Great vehicle. Its a standard.
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