Honda - Accord :: 2004 Intermittently Does Not Start
Oct 10, 2012
One morning after parking and turning the car off, I tried to restart and it just made a sad attempt. A few minutes later it started, but still seemed to take too long. I took it to the dealer and they said the Alternator needed to be replaced, so they replaced it with a rebuilt alternator (without asking me if i wanted rebuilt or new). Anyway.. when i picked it up it still seems to start a bit slower than normal, but they said that is typical for hondas. A couple of weeks later, I picked up my car from the airport after it sat there for 2 nights. It started slowly but surely. I stopped at store, and then it would not start at all. Barely made any sound at all. no cranking... So i had to have it jump started by a tow truck service.I took it back to Honda and they said everything check out ok, and cannot find any issue.I am afraid to get stranded again. Do I need to buy a new car? This one only has 70k miles !
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2000 Honda Accord. Daughters car and she went to start the car leaving a store and it wouldn't start. She tried a few times. Cranks fine but didn't start. Went and got her and she said that it's happened a couple of times before but she would get it started by waiting and trying until it did. It's been there since last night so it's been about 18 hours when I drove over to look at it and it started right up and I drove it home.
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I have a 99 Honda Accord 4cyl. I am having a problem with not starting from time to time.some days it is fine and will start every time others it might not. It will turn over, fuel pump is running, replaced main/fuel relay, check engine light does not come on and green key light is not on or blink when it dont start. I can leave it for awhile come back and it starts.
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I have a 1998 Honda Accord that intermittently won't start. When the issue occurs the dashboard lights, radio, etc all work just fine, but the engine won't turn over (no clicking, no noise at all). It's standard vehicle, but I definitely have my foot all the way to the floor to depress the clutch safety switch. The issue only seems to occur when the car is warm (i.e. it never happens on the first start in the morning), although it's been known to happen even after 2hrs of cooling down. The issue used to only occur 1 out of 100 starts, but now it's getting closer to 1 out of 4 times. I'm able to get the car going by jump starting it, but that's getting old.
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Own a 2000 Accord EX; 100k...runs great and smooth 99.9% of the time. However every once in a while, like maybe once a month or so it starts, but sounds and feels like its firing on 3 cyl...will die if I try to put in gear, or take foot off accelerator. If I shut it off and try starting it again same thing will happen. However if I let it sit awhile (sometimes one hour sometimes next day) it will start smoothly and run beautifully. Problem seems unrelated to temperature, weather, time since last use, stage of the moon, engine temp, parked on hill or flat road. or who tries to start the car...
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On cold and/or wet days weak engine cranking. After a couple of attempts to start, I only hear a click about the 3rd attempt. If I wait about a minute or two, it still cranks slow but starts. Battery was replaced about 6 months ago. Electrical systems test good indicating no problem with battery, altenator, or starter. I don't seem to have any problem on warm days. My car is 4-cyl with about 85,000 miles and is kept in an unheated garage. Mechanic thinks trouble is likely the starter. Problem is intermittent, I'm not sure replacing the starter will fix the problem.
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I have a 2002 Honda Accord SE Sedan. 119K miles. The transmission slips sometimes especially when I start after stopping at a red light. My mechanic recommended not to change the transmission fluid as the transmission can go down and might need a new transmission. He also told me that 2002 Honda Accords are known for this issue.
So my question: Is my mechanic right? Or should I go ahead and flush the transmission fluid and replace it?
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I have a 2004 Honda Accord 4 cyl that just had spark plugs changed and battery posts cleaned but is acting like it doesn't want to start. Today it stalled 2x when I tried to start it and on 3rd attempts turned over. I put some fuel enhancer (from NAPA) in w/ premium gas, but usually don't get premium. I live on dirt road so it might cause problems. Honestly, I don't know a whole lot about cars but love my accord and want to fix it myself, if possible. What I should do or look into fixing?
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My 2004 Honda Accord V6 got a new Diehard in 10/2010. AAA says it is not the battery or the starter. When I turn the key there is a click and all the electrical components turn on. What it could be?
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My Honda Accord 2004 is making a whining sound when I start it up. It fades while driving buy it comes back every time the car accelerates from 1st to 2nd. It is an automatic but it is about that time frame that the sound occurs.
I've checked most things but am no expert. Transmission fluid, power steering, antifreeze, battery are all topped off and I just had an oil change (where I did use regular vs. synthetic which might be a factor but I don't know).
I also recently had the serpentine belt fixed but it sounds like the noise is coming from that area when the hood is up.
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I have a 2004 auto honda accord 4cyl. When I turn the key to turnon my car it takes a couple of seconds longer than it use to, to turn on. Sometimes it doesn't start at all,until I stop and pump the gas brake. This seems to do the trick, the two or three times this happened. My guess is that the gas isn't getting through as it should.
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So ive been having a problem with my 2004 Honda Accord. It on occasion doesn't start. I'm talking about once a month I run into this problem. When I do have this problem, I turn the key and it cranks but doesn't start. At the end of the crank I get a scratching noise. My alternator, spark plugs and battery are all fairly new (4 months old) and oem. I'm thinking it's the fuel pump failing.
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My 2004 honda accord will not start, there is no power to the spark plugs or to the coils.
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Mechanic could not find any codes on my 98 Honda Accord... The car was intermittently hesitating upon acceleration... There were no leaks or no burning odor. He recommended replacing the transmission and failed to adhere to code 3361.1... The car performed the same way after the transmission was replaced and he "could not duplicate" the problem and therefore could not fix it... He did state the clutch were burnt on the car. After failing a smog check I brought the car to a different mechanic who changed the oxygen sensor and the car has been running fine.
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The power steering on my car is failing intermittently. There is no secret thing to do to make it fail. It's mostly at low/no speed like when pulling into a parking spot. Thus far, I have had the pump replaced twice, pressure valve switch, and the rack and pinion replaced. My mechanic of 10 years is stumped as to what is happening.
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Seems to work when I rotate the steering wheel somewhat...maybe this jiggers/resets that ignition switch "area" thus allowing me to fully depress the button on the transmission stick. Is it the ignition switch? Should I replace it?
NOTE: Shift Lock Override Button is missing, but I can insert a pencil in the hole which then depresses a spring which then lets me shift out of Park. WIFE says that not good enough...
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I have a 1986 Honda Accord Hatchback Lxi, 180,000 miles, automatic, one owner, always excellent care (very recently new spark plugs, new air filter, new oil and filter, and several years ago new Pirelli tires). Lately, while driving, it intermittently loses power, like it's going to stall, but never does. I accelerate to recover. Years ago I used to hear about vapor lock. Last week I took it to a Honda dealer. They had no diagnostic machines for "old" cars and had no clue what was causing this. Most of the time, the car drives beautifully, but it's scary thinking it's going to quit and I'll be stranded on the side of the road.
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I recently purchase a 1991 Honda Accord. When I test drove it the sports light was not on. However when I did the final drive home the sports light was on and would not go off with the switch button. I was reading online and from several responses this seems to be a TCU concern and not the transmission. I gather some info from the internet and it explains how to change the resistor and capacitor in the TCU for under $5 bucks. I did not do this but I did unhook the battery and the sports light was off and came on and off with the button. This only lasted a week. Now the sports light come on and off intermittently and shift drives automatically while driving. Is this a electrical or transmission issue??????. Should I just get brave and refer to the under $5 bucks TCU repair and do it myself or take it to a mechanic.
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2001 Honda Accord 4 cylinder... At 256K miles I had the battery and open doors, open trunk lights illuminate intermittently. Initially the lights came on for 1/2 mile. 150 miles later it was more like 20 miles on, off for a mile, on for 40 miles, off for 25 miles, on for 10 miles, and then off. A Honda dealer ( after the first 20 miles of battery light being on and 70 miles from home) replaced the battery and the lights came back on a mile down the road. I managed to get home. With engine running running battery voltage was 14.4 volts. The light stayed off for 30 miles the next day. AutoZone found no diagnostic codes. A mechanic told me that the battery light could be intermittent with a failing alternator. I changed the alternator (cracked case). The voltmeter again showed 14.4 volts with engine running. Will the car return to reliability?
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The speedometer on my car works intermittently. When I accelerate and release I hear a loud clicking noise and my speedometer and rpm stop working. It will jump from different speeds dropping to zero. Is my speedometer on its way out or could it be something else?
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My 2004 Honda Accord wouldn't start this morning. Immobilization indicator was blinking. After a bit, it started just fine, as the indicator stopped blinking. My thinking at this time was that it had rained torrentially the previous night, maybe some moisture had got into the circuitry and caused a little 'hiccup.' Then, as I drove, about 5 minutes later, the car started trying to stall. The check engine light came on, then the battery light came on and flashed. The engine ran erratically. Both check engine and battery lights started blinking erratically. At one point the dash beeped at me, like the warning sound it makes when the emergency brake is on while the car is moving. This got worse as I drove. I pulled over to the nearest shop. 2 hours of looking at the car, they said the camshaft sensor and the alternator needed to be replaced. .
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