It has been so effective to add diesel injector cleaner to my 2004 Honda (all of 62,000 miles on it), that it is scaring me. Am I damaging anything? I add about an ounce/gallon every once in a while. Mileage drops back in between.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2012 Honda Accord EX with a manual trans. It's a fly-by-wire system. When accelerating and shifting, the tac momentarily jumps various hundreds of RPMs when the clutch is in. That used to mean you weren't coming off the gas when the clutch was in. I've been driving manual trans cars for 45 years. I know how to shift. But, it was a new car, so maybe... I paid close attention and was not screwing up the shifts. Apparently the computer doesn't realize the clutch is in and the gas pedal has been released. Is this normal for these cars? Is it a problem? (other than wasting a half thimble full of gas and over-reving the engine?)
View 4 RepliesI bought an 04 f150 super crew cab with the 5.4L triton in it 3 years ago with 50k on it from my great uncle who was the original owner. It's had a tick to it since he had it but the dealership told him they couldn't find anything wrong with it and to get use to the noise. It's ran pretty good up until last couple months where it's been running really rough and not doing the best. It's still hasn't been all the time but more intermittent and comes and goes, but when it's running bad the rpm drops down to about 200 and my motor sounds blown.
When that's happening I could put in neutral and rev it up and it would go back to normal for a bit, but now it's all the time and stalls out even at 70 on the hwy. The codes it throws are, p1000- monitor checks not complete-more driving required, p0345- camshaft pos sens circ error(bank 2), p0022- A camshaft pos timing-over retarded bank 2. Things I have tried-changed all 8 plugs, added K&N air intake, replaced both cam sensors, replaced fuel pump driver module (due to corrosion). Tonight I'm going to clean the throttle body, mas air flow sensor, change fuel filter.
I have a 2011 honda accord with 15,000 miles on it that Has only gotten 20mpg since it was new. It is supposed to get 23mpg city and 34mpg highway. I figured I was the tires but since fixing the leaking valve stems it is still only 20mpg. I asked the dealer about it several times during oil changes after I first bought it and they claimed to look into it and find nothing wrong. Is there anything I can do to fix this or would it be covered under new yorks lemon laws?
View 19 RepliesI have a 1998 Honda Accord, automatic with 179,000 miles. The malfunction indicator light came on so I had the car smoked and found that it needed a purge valve. I replaced the purge valve and smoked the car again which indicated the car still has a vapor leak and the malfunction light stayed on. The only place visible smoke is coming from is from the fuel filler neck (place where fuel or gas is put into the car) when the gas cap is off. Where the leak may be? My car is also getting horrible gas mileage. I was going to replace the fuel filter but I heard it was in the gas tank, is this right and is it replaceable? Would replacing the gas cap work for either the vapor leak or gas mileage?
View 8 RepliesI have a 1994 Honda Accord DX 5 speed. As it was turning to 208,000 the odometer froze up. This was in mid April. The speedometer still works but the 2 mileage readings quit. About a week later it began to work for 9 miles, then froze up again. I called 3 mechanics. They said it was the speedometer cluster & that he would need to put a search out for the part because it was a rare part for my car. That was 2 weeks ago. Last week my odometer began working as though nothing happened and has been fine. If and when I ever hear back about the part what should I do? Go ahead and get it fixed or just say "If it ain't broke don't fix it?"
View 2 Replies'92 Honda Accord
My car was getting 28/29 mpg when the water pump went. Afterward the work was done the mileage dropped to ~21 mpg. Going back to the place that did the work is not an option. A few months after the work I decided to do a tuneup to fix the mileage. A guy from the parts store came out to show me how to deal with the spark plugs and told me I needed a new valve cover gasket. When I went back to the place that did the work, they agreed I needed a new gasket and would do it for the full price. They also agreed that they had just replaced it when they did the original work. Even I know gaskets don't fail that quickly. So they did a foul job originally. What could they have done to kill the mileage?
I own a '90 Honda Accord and it constantly shakes, has poor acceleration and seems to use too much gas. I thought it was the catalytic converter and I installed a high flow cat. The fuel pump went out so I had that replaced. It shakes less since replacing the cat but I still see the gas gauge go down too low when I press on the gas and the car will stall and stop as I get to "E" when normally I was able to drive many miles past "E". Any guesses? I'm wondering if I need to replace the fuel pressure regulator.
View 6 RepliesI'm a bit concerned about my faithful old 1997 Honda Accord DX.
I noticed a particularly slow start a few weeks ago, so I went to Batteries and Bulbs for a quick check. The battery, which was a little over a year old, was already half dead. They swapped it out under partial warranty in case that was the cause.
This morning - same deal. It turned over 4-5 times with a particularly large squeal in the middle of the cranking, but it finally started. I drove it ten minutes and parked it at my normal mechanic (met a friend there to drive her to work, since her Honda has a check engine light on) and it cranked up immediately there. Turned over once, and fired right up.
The last time I thought I heard a funny noise on starting and took it to get checked out (and get an oil change at the same time), my mechanic swore everything was fine. In fact, he said "Your car is perfect." I'm concerned if I take it in without having some suggestions on what to check this time that I'll be dismissed as a car hypochondriac.
The car has 222K miles on it. Last tune up was around 200K miles, last timing belt change at 190K miles.
My '96 Honda Accord has about 174,000 miles on it. Three weeks ago I checked my oil and the oil was black and way above the full level. I had also been adding 8-9 ounces of coolant previous to checking the level.
My coolant temp gauge has never gone beyond normal range. Two mechanics said I had a blown head gasket. I decided to change the oil and filter and only put in 4 quarts of oil. The level is only up about 1/4 inch level and the rest of the dipstick is completely clear. My friends also checked and it is so clean, like there is no oil in the car, but I have no signs of oil leaking. My oil pressure gauge shows normal pressure.
I continue to add 2-3 ounces of coolant each week. Early in the morning the engine shudders a minute or two before calming to a normal idle. I only drive around town a little, 75 miles a week. Can I continue running the car in this condition? If so, for how long? There is nothing else wrong with the car. Is it worth repairing?
I have 1999 Honda Accord LX, 185000 mile, with 4 cylinders. Starts one month ago, the speedometer drop to zero randomly and immediately come back to normal on highway several times. Recently, car stops twice on street. Dashboard panel had no power. It seems electricity shuts off. I turn the key to OFF and turn the key to ON immediately then the car starts OK. The ignition switch was changed since there was a recall for it. What is wrong with my car?
View 3 RepliesMy 1994 honda accord station wagons cooling fan is working but the temp gauge still goes all the way up then back to normal numerous times while driving.. I park on the side of the road while the car is on, pop the hood to check and see any signs of over heating but the motor seems to be normal.. What could be happening??
View 10 RepliesI had made a trip down to Branson Missouri for Christmas, which is about 1000+ miles round trip, and the milage seemed to be slightly lower than normal on the computer, about 23 mpg. I went to Iowa after that for Christmas and filled up my tank once when I was there, I was sure to get 91 octane gas. Then after doing a lot of in town driving it went all the way down to about 11 mpg. It jumped back up to 17.9 as I was driving back up to the Twin Cities and hasn't moved after doing some in town driving since then.
The tank seemed to match the computer as far as how fast it dropped, but I'm curious if there's anything I should be looking for. I have a K and N filter in there, and it's only been used 10,000 miles or so, but I cleaned it anyways, since there were some bugs and small leaves in it (there was also a large black spot on it that didn't look like dust or dirt, more like something oily, if that means anything). I'm planning on filling it up a couple more times and seeing what happens before I start going to my mechanic, but I'm switching jobs and will be driving it for work, so I'd like my vehicle to be running well.
After air filter change our 2004 Honda Pilot mileage was reduced by 50% (got about 11 mpg on interstate and we used to get 24 mpg). I checked tire pressure and they were low, so I inflated them. I have a code reader, and the car is showing no error codes.
View 2 RepliesI've got a 2004 Honda Civic with the 1.7L engine. I drive for about five miles and the engine stops suddenly but only for a half-second then runs again like normal. At the same time, there is a click - click behind my glove box. Relays I'm almost sure. And the way it happens is :click > engine stopsclick > engine continues running normally. Used to happen only on hot days, now it does when it's cool out once the engine is warmed up.
After it does this over and over about 6 times the Check Engine Light comes on and it doesn't jerk so hard, but stumbles kinda mildly, but all the time - though usually by this time I have gotten off the road and am swearing loudly.The Honda mechanics are running the clock RIGHT NOW and it may cost me a fortune - Also, there is no error code showing. Nothing. And I also replaced some relays, to no avail, because I read about cracked solder problems someplace...
Brand new 2014 Prius Plug in. I am getting about 45 mpg on a 14-mile all-city trip and 46 mpg on a 30-mile mixed hwy/city trip. The mpg numbers are from the information display when the car were turned off.
Is that normal? I thought it's supposed to be about 50 mpg. Btw, ECO mode was enabled.
2004 Honda Accord sedan, 4 cylinder, approx, 95,000 miles, uses oil rapidly at highway speeds (one quart in 90 minutes), in town driving will not use any oil over 3 to 4 months of monitoring. What the problem is and how to fix it?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2004 Honda Accord 4 cyl that just had spark plugs changed and battery posts cleaned but is acting like it doesn't want to start. Today it stalled 2x when I tried to start it and on 3rd attempts turned over. I put some fuel enhancer (from NAPA) in w/ premium gas, but usually don't get premium. I live on dirt road so it might cause problems. Honestly, I don't know a whole lot about cars but love my accord and want to fix it myself, if possible. What I should do or look into fixing?
View 11 RepliesOne morning after parking and turning the car off, I tried to restart and it just made a sad attempt. A few minutes later it started, but still seemed to take too long. I took it to the dealer and they said the Alternator needed to be replaced, so they replaced it with a rebuilt alternator (without asking me if i wanted rebuilt or new). Anyway.. when i picked it up it still seems to start a bit slower than normal, but they said that is typical for hondas. A couple of weeks later, I picked up my car from the airport after it sat there for 2 nights. It started slowly but surely. I stopped at store, and then it would not start at all. Barely made any sound at all. no cranking... So i had to have it jump started by a tow truck service.I took it back to Honda and they said everything check out ok, and cannot find any issue.I am afraid to get stranded again. Do I need to buy a new car? This one only has 70k miles !
View 8 RepliesMore questions on OBD codes but I'm trying to understand my problem. The check engine light came on for a week and then off and then on etc.. I thought it was the gas cap or wet/loose wire on the 1st O2 sensor. Well, I went to advanced auto and they said P0141 I think (bank 1, sensor 2 after the cat convertor) and the right rear ABX wire/reader. He told me to clean the ABS sensor (it was filthy with dirt and I can see how it can't read) and I did the other rear and the front left one (it was different on the front than the back and was clean so I didn't do the right front). So, now the light is still on probably due to the O2 sensor. I intend to get a mechanic change out the sensor (denso at adv auto for 70 bucks plus labor) and reset the computer to see if the ABS sensor code comes again or it's fixed.
Why did the check engine light come on and off? I thought once on, it only goes off if it's a gas cap issue. Next, does the computer reset itself or will a mechanic have to reset it? Can the ABS switch be just dirty or do they die and it needs replacement? Why didn't the ABS light on the dash come on if the error code was for the ABS wire which will mess up the ABS system?
The engine bolt in my 2004 Honda Accord broke off (while driving). The dealer repaired the car at the time because it was under warranty. I think this is an unusual event but wonder if my mechanic could have caused.
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