Honda - Accord :: 2004 - CEL Comes On Sporadically - Fixing EBD Codes?
Jun 15, 2015
More questions on OBD codes but I'm trying to understand my problem. The check engine light came on for a week and then off and then on etc.. I thought it was the gas cap or wet/loose wire on the 1st O2 sensor. Well, I went to advanced auto and they said P0141 I think (bank 1, sensor 2 after the cat convertor) and the right rear ABX wire/reader. He told me to clean the ABS sensor (it was filthy with dirt and I can see how it can't read) and I did the other rear and the front left one (it was different on the front than the back and was clean so I didn't do the right front). So, now the light is still on probably due to the O2 sensor. I intend to get a mechanic change out the sensor (denso at adv auto for 70 bucks plus labor) and reset the computer to see if the ABS sensor code comes again or it's fixed.
Why did the check engine light come on and off? I thought once on, it only goes off if it's a gas cap issue. Next, does the computer reset itself or will a mechanic have to reset it? Can the ABS switch be just dirty or do they die and it needs replacement? Why didn't the ABS light on the dash come on if the error code was for the ABS wire which will mess up the ABS system?
View 3 Replies
Advertisement
My Accord has recently been stalling on start-up, and I'm trying to figure out if it's something I need to worry about. Here are more details:
It only happens sporadically (though more frequently recently), and only after the car is warmed up. The car starts up fine, but then a few seconds later the engine sputters and stalls. Second and third tries at starting it up are no different (still stalls). If I can get the car into gear and moving quickly enough (before it has a chance to stall), the car runs absolutely fine.
I took it to my regular mechanic and they, of course, were unable to reproduce the problem. They checked "everything" (including starter and fuel pump) and said it all tested "normal". It's otherwise running perfectly well.
My observation: the times when it stalls, it sounds/feels like the engine doesn't rev up enough to "catch" (non-technical explanation). I don't know a whole lot about cars, but this seems like a fuel pump issue, right? Maybe it's only acting up sporadically, which is why it tested normal at the shop?
An added mystery that probably doesn't have much to do with the problem, but that I find intriguing and would be perfect for Tom and Ray! 98% of the time, this happens when the car is parked in a parking garage. I can only remember 2 times that it's happened after being parked outside.
View 13 Replies
So, starting about 2 months ago my car started starting kind of hard and the CEL came on. It would crank for a few seconds, start to turn over but sound like it was going to sputter out, but ultimately turn over. It seemed to be exacerbated the longer the car sat between times running. I let the car sit for about a week while I was waiting for parts to come in to change out my front brakes, and now it won't start.
I hooked up my newly acquired OBD II reader and got the following DTCs:P0130 - O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 1P0130 P - Same, P for PendingP0336 - Crankshaft Position Sensor A CKT Range/PerformanceP0340 - Camshaft Position Sensor A Bank 1 Circuit Malfunction
Based on my limited understanding, I would think something having to do with the last two codes would be why the car isn't starting, but it seems like it could also easily be something else not directly indicated by those codes. So what I'm wondering is, do I need sensors replaced, or is there something else that needs to be replaced on the car. The car has ~130k on the odo.
View 3 Replies
My Suzuki has been in and out of maybe 5 shops in attempts to fix engine codes P0171 (system lean) and P0174 (bank 1 rich). None of them have successfully done so. I tried to take it into a dealer, but I was informed that diagnostic would take several hours (maybe $1000), and that the fix may be another ~$1500-2000, even though I have already replaced many parts related to these codes.
The dealer advised me to give up on the car, as the repairs could easily exceed the value of the car. I don't really care about that, I just need a reliable car that works.
View 10 Replies
Brakes: Current setup has over 40,000 miles. OEM rotors with Hawk HPS pads. Stiffing kit aka brass bushings installed. Brakes feel rough. Having problems with sticking and ABS on one side. I switched the pads and the sliders from left to right. The problem seems to have moved when pads and sliders were switched around. Possible solutions: brake caliper rebuild. I already bleed the brakes and clutch out. What pads should I use next? Is braided lines a good idea??
Paint: Front bumper is shot, hood has rock chips, mirrors need work out and rear bumper could use a lil love. Should I paint these parts Reflex silver? Paint the whole car again?? Or wrap the car? What about wrapping the whole car? Matte silver? Brushed Silver? Shiny Silver? Or maybe a camo wrap? What's ya input, how bout I rattle can these parts?? Show car or street brawler??
TIRES: My Nitto NT05's have about 2/32's left. Good dry grip, tons of DRY grip but everything else is just ok. Cost, weight, wet traction, comfort, looks, noise and vibration are all OK. Tire wear is less than expected. I KNOW that the Michelin Super Sports are the TOP TIRE right now. Everything about the Super Sport is great! But, I'm hearing the Hankook RS3's are the best bang for the buck. I also heard that the Falken 452 is being replaced by the 453 AS WE SPEAK. I need a cost effective tire with good dry grip, good wet grip, decent noise and vibration with good wear rating. The Michelin fits the bill but they a Lil expensive. What tires should I consider?
Vag-Com: I got codes to read, you'll. Airbag light on, I wanna find the problem and FIX IT. My laptop computer is weak. I don't wanna get a cable and a disc for VAG. What are my other options? I wanna be able to erase codes and realign my throttle body. Other than VAG-COM how can I read and erase codes??
View 8 Replies
Cars have been having problems with the clutch sticking to the floor. Bled the brake valve. Seemed to fix the problem, took a 30 min drive following, and clutch to the floor 2x at the end of the drive. Then, my car started to sound like a freaking wrx! BARELY made it home and it will turn over but quickly spud out. checked codes and it missed fire in 3 cylinders and small puddle under the car. I'm stuck and out of ideas other than coils.
View 3 Replies
Could these Knock sensor low input codes be caused by a failing battery? My battery was dead 2 days ago. I charged it and it has been starting but today after starting a couple of times in a row these codes came up. I've never had any codes before and it was running fine. It is a 2002 Suburban with the 6.0 engine.
View 11 Replies
I have a 2000 Pontiac grand am coupe GT with the 6 cylinder engine. It has been a very good car to me. I really like it and it "fits" me well ... and yet... it is now testing me. About a year ago the check engine light came on. The codes were P0327 and P0336 for bad Knock sensor and Crank sensor respectively. The were both replaced multiple times, the light still stays on... and the codes are still coming up. I have have been to different experts, and after the computer resets... there they are again. (someone even thought that the computer needed updated codes for those sensors... so he installed them.. with no better results). The code P1189 for an oil switch is now coming up too.Here in California, the car cannot pass smog with the check engine light on... so I'm not able to re-register it, and I don't think I can sell it for much because no one can register it now. So, what this can be? Is there some common thread between all these sensors (or a recall of some kind) that would explain this? My fear is that the computer will have to be changed at about $1000. My even greater fear is that that will still not solve the problem.
View 2 Replies
Over the past 3 years or so, my 1993 Honda Civic began not starting at very random times. Everything would appear to be working but the engine wouldn't fire up, until after a few tries or minutes. I got the fuel pump relay replaced last March and that worked for a bit but then my car acted up again in June and an electrical connector to the fuel pump was replaced. My car had been starting every time since, until last week. This is the worst it has ever been; my engine took about 3 hours (re-trying it here and there) to decide to turn over and start on its own, worked great for 3 days and then again just would not start. On a whim, I jumped it that time and it worked. This seems strange to me because all the electricity in the car was working when it wouldn't start, and my battery checked out fine when it was tested recently.
View 5 Replies
2004 Honda Accord sedan, 4 cylinder, approx, 95,000 miles, uses oil rapidly at highway speeds (one quart in 90 minutes), in town driving will not use any oil over 3 to 4 months of monitoring. What the problem is and how to fix it?
View 4 Replies
I have a 2004 Honda Accord 4 cyl that just had spark plugs changed and battery posts cleaned but is acting like it doesn't want to start. Today it stalled 2x when I tried to start it and on 3rd attempts turned over. I put some fuel enhancer (from NAPA) in w/ premium gas, but usually don't get premium. I live on dirt road so it might cause problems. Honestly, I don't know a whole lot about cars but love my accord and want to fix it myself, if possible. What I should do or look into fixing?
View 11 Replies
One morning after parking and turning the car off, I tried to restart and it just made a sad attempt. A few minutes later it started, but still seemed to take too long. I took it to the dealer and they said the Alternator needed to be replaced, so they replaced it with a rebuilt alternator (without asking me if i wanted rebuilt or new). Anyway.. when i picked it up it still seems to start a bit slower than normal, but they said that is typical for hondas. A couple of weeks later, I picked up my car from the airport after it sat there for 2 nights. It started slowly but surely. I stopped at store, and then it would not start at all. Barely made any sound at all. no cranking... So i had to have it jump started by a tow truck service.I took it back to Honda and they said everything check out ok, and cannot find any issue.I am afraid to get stranded again. Do I need to buy a new car? This one only has 70k miles !
View 8 Replies
A little background information: 2007 Honda Civic EX, 62000 miles, never been in an accident other than a couple bumper breakers, I'm the second owner and bought the car Certified Pre-Owned in 2008. I take pretty decent care of the car -- regular tune ups and oil changes. The check engine light comes on sporadically. It'll be on for a full day, and then it'll disappear, and won't reappear for a week, sometimes more.
Last summer, I got into one of those bumper breakers I mentioned before. I rolled into a car in front of me at about 7 mph when I took my eyes off the road for a moment because a woman swung open her car door next to me as I passed, and it grabbed my attention. Cracked my bumper, knocked off the Honda "H" logo, and otherwise caused cosmetic damage, but no mechanical damage from what I could tell. I didn't have anybody look at it, but since then I have had 2 oil changes, 2 tune ups and an inspection, and nobody noticed any problems. It turns out that my radiator had the slightest ding in it and was causing me to very slowly leak coolant. There were never any signs -- no corrosion, no pools under the car, nothing like that. It wasn't until this week when my car began overheating and my check engine light came on that I realized there was a problem. I had the radiator replaced and the transmission fluid changed because it was pretty well burnt up.
At the mechanic, they hooked up my car to their computer and the on-board computer gave them this error message: "P0848 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure SW (Open or Stuck)". The mechanic tells me that I need a whole new transmission. I am completely in disbelief. At only 62000 miles? Only a year or so removed from when my CPO Powertrain Warranty expired? It's a big pill to swallow. Especially since I'm a relatively poor 30 year old who is getting married in November and don't have a penny to spare.
So, here are my questions for you:
(1) What does this error message mean?
(2) Does it really mean that I need a whole new transmission? If not, what is the recommended procedure to fix the problem...
View 7 Replies
The engine bolt in my 2004 Honda Accord broke off (while driving). The dealer repaired the car at the time because it was under warranty. I think this is an unusual event but wonder if my mechanic could have caused.
View 16 Replies
I have a 2004 accord exl (4 cyl) and it's making a whining noise. At 1st I thought it was the serpentine belt but then listen closer and it's seems like it's the water pump pulley (top pulley). I sprayed it with silicon oil and it minimized it but still comes back some with driving. The car has 110.5K miles on it. Kind of early for the water pump to go??? The belt is original and doesn't seem too bad. so I guess the bearings are going and it's time to change the belt and the water pump.
View 10 Replies
2004 Honda Accord with 120k miles sounds like an old sewing machine when cold for a few minutes (less than 5). The exact sound is on a video on youtube: [URL..... Dealer said they can't find it. Car has been maintained well and all services have been done. I've heard a lot of guesses (all expensive) but no solutions. Dealer finally got tired of me asking about it and said to just ignore it (turn up the volume on the radio).
View 2 Replies
Honda Accord 2004 EX V6 150,000 Miles. The car is paid off, I'm the original owner and it has no problems, apart from it seems like the clutch is beginning to wear down. Some times in drive when I step on the gas it spins up just a little and jerks forward. Is is worth getting the clutch repaired?
View 10 Replies
My 2004 Honda Accord V6 got a new Diehard in 10/2010. AAA says it is not the battery or the starter. When I turn the key there is a click and all the electrical components turn on. What it could be?
View 5 Replies
OK, the wife had this car lose power on the interstate (only 5 mph) -- said she heard a lot of noise (no good description) and smelled rubber burning. Towed to Honda dealer -- found nothing wrong even after putting 44 miles on it to try to get it hot. My co-worker said she had a similar problem with a Civic --they found nothing on the computer -- happened again, she limped in a 5 mph and they could hear it was the alternator. Alternatively, web research has shown a LOT of problems with the 2004 V6 transmission.
View 1 Replies
It has been so effective to add diesel injector cleaner to my 2004 Honda (all of 62,000 miles on it), that it is scaring me. Am I damaging anything? I add about an ounce/gallon every once in a while. Mileage drops back in between.
View 10 Replies
My Honda Accord 2004 is making a whining sound when I start it up. It fades while driving buy it comes back every time the car accelerates from 1st to 2nd. It is an automatic but it is about that time frame that the sound occurs.
I've checked most things but am no expert. Transmission fluid, power steering, antifreeze, battery are all topped off and I just had an oil change (where I did use regular vs. synthetic which might be a factor but I don't know).
I also recently had the serpentine belt fixed but it sounds like the noise is coming from that area when the hood is up.
View 12 Replies
