Honda - Accord :: 2003 - Passenger Side Door Would Not Lock
Feb 24, 2011
2003 Accord EX, about 145K miles. About a year ago, the back passenger side door would not lock. So now I just keep it locked and if I ever need it open, I reach back to unlock it. About 6 months ago, the front passenger side door stopped responding to a lock command. But the funny thing was, when it started to show signs of weakness, I could press lock (on driver side door or remote) about 5 or 6 times and it would eventually make its way down or up. Eventually, it just stopped working altogether. So now I have 2 out of 4 doors that lock and unlock remotely or by the master unlock/lock button on the driver's side. I have found NO other issues with the car that would seem related to this. The AC has stopped blowing cold air but it did this last summer too (and fixed itself) so I think that is unrelated. I am happy, willing, and able to do any minor fixes myself on the car.
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I have a 2door 1992 Honda Accord EXR. In order to lock the car, you need to close the driver door and use the key to lock - annoying as hell but apparently the only way.
It recently got very cold and I can't seem to lock my driver's side door from the outside with my key. I tried squirting in door lock de-icer but to no avail. The key does not turn on the outside although once inside I can lock it from inside with the door lock switch.
Passenger side locks but it does not lock the driver's door.
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Have a 2003 Honda Accord with 178K miles on it. Excellent service and maintenance on the car. After this winter (midwest) I notice a creaking sound (like bedsprings) coming from the front end, passenger side. Car also seems rather bouncy on rough roads. Husband check the shocks and struts and says they are fine. What else could it be? Sway bar, ball joints, etc. and estimated cost - will take to a mechanic...
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I've had a wet passenger side rear floor in my Accord for the past year now when I run the A/C. Two mechanics including a Honda dealership have told me the A/C drain is not plugged. One of them ran compressed air through the drain and it seemed to be better for about a week and then started again. How to investigate the matter further. The floor does not smell like coolant. It just feels like and smells like water.
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I went to grab my laptop out of my car this morning and my passenger side door wont unlock. I tried with the remote, then i tried using the button on the drivers door, then i tried the button on the passenger door and none of them worked. I don't hear as much as a pin drop sound coming from the pass. door so im thinking maybe its just a fuse or something...didn't get a chance to look at it..
Why I didnt think of it this morning, but i opened the door from the inside, remembering how when you do so, it pushes up the lock...that seemed to be enough to fix it...works fine now..weird..
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My friend has a question about his 2001 Honda 2 dr. Accord, V6. After he first starts the car and backs straight or turns, there is a bad sound near the passenger front side, maybe in near the wheel. Once the car has been started, say, and he goes forward and then backs up there is no noise. But the first time out of the parked position, it is very noticeable. He said he has noticed it almost a year. Is the transaxle a problem? Is it dangerous.. only on the first startup and back up and it ends shortly, but sounds bad. It is not with brake application either, so not a brake pad I don't think and he has those checked and replaced, so don't know what to think.
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I have a problem with my 2011 sonata, the rear passenger side door lock will not unlock. Whether I use the key fob, the internal door unlock button or the buttons on the door handles from the outside. I can't even get the door open to take the panel off.
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92 Honda accord. This car has two radiator fans. The passenger side fan comes on intermittently after the car has been shut off, causing the cars battery to drain. If the battery isn't disconnected then the car has to be jumped every time due to the fan running. Cars temp doesn't get hot, checked coolant, everything seems to be working fine.
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I have a 10th anniversary Honda Accord. When you apply the emergency brake, the passenger rear wheel brake does not engage. This car appears to have 2 master cylinders, but I could not find any documentation to confirm. Is this correct? The reservoir on the passenger side is way above the max mark. I'm thinking this is somehow related to the e-brake issue.
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So I drive a 98 Honda, 118k miles, and for last month I've got a really strange noise coming from my front passenger side wheel. It happens when I apply the brakes, usually at a slow speed, slowing down from something like 30mph to a stop. When slowing down, if I have just a bit of pressure on the brake, the noise seems to go along with the speed of the wheels. It also happens when I accelerate from a stop.
I can only describe it as a kind of creaking noise, almost like it is coming from the spring. Sometimes it sounds a little tinny, sometimes not so much. I don't think its actually in the suspension, because it doesn't make noise if I go over speed bumps or press down on the fender. Brake pads have a good amount of pad left on them.
My hunch is that it might have something to do with the fact that I hardly ever drive anymore, somewhere around 10-20 miles a week, back and forth to the subway essentially (fair amount of time driving down banked turns in a parking garage if that adds any info). My dad knows a decent amount about cars, but he isn't sure what is going on, though he thinks it nothing dangerous. Strange wheel noises always make me wary though.
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It wasn't something that happened all that frequently, but the door lock on the passenger side would occasionally get stuck when someone would try to open it at the same time I was unlocking the doors. And I understand that this is something that is common because I've experienced this same situation with other vehicles. But now when I unlock the doors be it by the door handle sensor, the remote key or when I'm inside the car it remains locked sometimes. The only way to unlock the passenger side door now is by repeatedly pressing the unlock button inside the cabin, remote key or manually unlocking the door from the inside.
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I have recently replaced all 4 struts in my car with monroe quick struts. I have a 2002 Accord. Everything went wonderful until a few weeks later I heard a rattle from the front passenger side. Its a light "tinny" rattle, almost as if a bolt was loose and it was jiggling around. It doesn't happen every time and sometimes goes away altogether. I took it to my trusted mechanic, and they spend a good 45 minutes inside looking at things and overtightened everything to no avail. I have ruled out a defective strut (as I replaced it with one and the new one does the same thing) and I ruled out the stabilizer bar bushing (brand new OEM part I installed) and I ruled out the sway bar link (also new).
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I have a '98 Accord. It's got some issues and I am in the process of buying a new vehicle. But need to have a driveable car for work in the meantime. I have a torn boot on the front passenger side. Front brakes are also pretty worn down, not mention the Cat converter is shot and rusted. I'm getting a very loud, grinding noise when I turn to the left. Very loud noise. Some noise when turning to the right but not nearly as loud. My mechanic looked at the car a week ago and told me too many problems to fix the car, get a new one. which I am but it's taking some time. I'm just wondering if you think the car is likely safe enough to continue to drive until I get the new car. It's the loud grinding noise that freaks me out.
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My 2004 V50, all the doors and boot lock except for the rear drivers side passenger door.
I have tried pushing the door knob down and this wont budge either, took the door card off and can hear a clicking when you press the key fob but thats it lock does not move?
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I have a 2011 base model Camry.
The passenger side front door lock (electronic) stopped working a while back.
I fixed the drivers side issue when replacing the speakers in the car (driver side would stick and sometime not move by hand).
What is the best way to determine if the door lock actuator is dead or something else is wrong?
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My buddy just picked up a 2007 passat 2.0t. Upon bringing it home and locking it we noticed the horn didn't beep indicating an active alarm. I discovered the rear passenger door wasn't locking, and when opening it, even though the alarm was activated, the alarm didn't go off. The door unlock/lock switch as well as the window switch both aren't working. Can't open the window from the driver's door switch either.
I'm guessing it's probably something to do with the power to the door since it's completely unresponsive. Where would we be able to check if power is going to the door? Also, since the alarm doesn't go off when opened is there a sensor somewhere that says when the door is open and or locked?
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Since I had my '02 I've had the child safety lock on the passenger side rear door on (active). I went to disable it (you know, stick the ignition key in and turn it 90 degrees to the side without the child's picture) and I'm still unable to open the door from the inside.
Everything else with the door works fine. The power locks work. Even pulling the handle twice pushes the lock button to the up position. And opening the door from the outside works as it's supposed to. The only thing I cannot do is open the door from the inside. Have I missed anything?
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I'm having some problems with the power windows and locks. The passenger side window only works when it wants to. The power lock on the same door will not lock unless I push it down. And the lights that are on the switches don't work.
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I have been noticing this problem more frequently. It's been about 2 months that I noticed the car is doing this.
I would typically touch the door handle to lock the car, (hear the beep) and sometimes I use the remote at a distance to make sure I did not forget to lock it. But after I return to the car, I usually go to the trunk, to put away my briefcase, (without pressing any button). After closing the trunk, and going to the driver side passenger door(its unlocked) (no beeping sound or anything)
I have made sure several times (clicking the button several times) that I indeed locked the car. but it's unlocked. I have tested the auto lock feature on my car (locking, then unlocking without opening doors, yes it automatically locks the doors after 60 seconds).
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My '03 F-150 passenger door "growls" every time the doors lock. Is there a gear on the lock solenoid that could be stripped out or something?
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I own a 2001 Honda CRV and have realized that I will never own another Honda because it has had many of the exact same problems that my old Accord did. Seems certain things just break on Hondas. However, unlike the last car, I have decided that doing the repairs myself would be a cheaper way to fix these minor problems. To the point: A few months ago, my driver's side door lock started acting up. (Note: I quit using the keyless entry a long time ago and simply use the key). At first, it randomly wouldn't lock/unlock along with the others. However, simply using the key or pushing/pulling on the lock knob did the trick. As time went on, the lock got more and more stubborn. Eventually, it took turning the key (hard) at the same time as pulling on the lever to unlock the door. Locking it still was not a problem. Now, even that does not work, and the only way to unlock it is to pull hard on the outside handle while pulling on the lock knob (this requires the window being down and is therefore impractical for any kind of daily use). Hence, I am resigned to climbing in the passenger door. After reading that Hondas usually have this problem and that it is usually the door lock actuator that is the problem, I purchased a new lock mechanism and actuator (I figured replacing the entire thing couldn't hurt...). So, I have replaced the entire mechanism within the door. However, the problem is still exactly the same. What else could this be?
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