Honda - Accord :: 2003 - Cruise Control Switch Will Not Stay Engaged
Oct 17, 2011
The "Cruise Main" switch on my 2003 Honda Accord will not stay engaged. When I push it, the Cuise Main lights up in the dash board and I can operate cruise control, but when I release the Cruise Main switch it doesn't stay on. I've tried electrical tape to hold the switch in (holds for limited time), and am thinking about bypassing the switch altogether. I don't mind if the Cruise Main is on all the time. I know I could replace the switch, but am looking for a zero cost solution.
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I have a 2006 Honda Accord that just today started acting weird. I was driving 70mph on the highway and noticed the car was "tugging" a bit. I looked down and the RPMs kept revving up to 5-6k and accelerating while the cruise control was set at 70.
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1997 F150... What part of the control system tells the compressor to turn on and off? After not having air conditioning for a year or more I replaced the broken blend door.
When the a/c is turned on and the temp control switch is turned to cold, I get cold air. When I turn the temp control switch to warm, the air coming out of the vents is very warm. However when I do this I noticed that the compressor is still engaged. I think that at this point the compressor should disengage.
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I have an 02 f150 5.4 and since I got it it hasn't had cruse control. I went to a local ford dealership and they ran the vin and didn't find any recall on it. Under the hood on the master cylinder there is brake fluid coming out of the brake control switch. Would I have to do something with the harness too?
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While driving on the highway, the cruise control shuts off and the speedometer stops working. Check engine light comes on. Car continues to run fine.
Five days later, I start the car and the following do not work: clock, intermittent wipers, neutral safety switch, tachometer, temperature gauge, gear indicator lights, rear defrost, windows, and I believe that is all. Car runs and drives fine. Other electrical items working. I check all fuses and only find one burned out - (#1, inside, labeled 'back up lights' meter lights) I replace the fuse and it blows when I start the car again. Take the car to AutoZone and they put it on their computer and it shows one code - P0501 - CVT speed sensor.
Two days later, the car will not start. Turns over strong, but will not start. I have checked the grounds on the transmission and body and they appear to be fine. Battery cables, also.
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The 12v battery is 3 1/2 years old.
I rebuilt the HV battery in May 2015. I replaced 3 modules and took the pack through 3 charge/discharge cycles using Hybrid Automotive grid charger and simple discharger. I also cleaned the cooling fan.
All was fine for a month or so. Then I got the trouble lights but the obdlink I had wouldn't show the codes. I noticed a decrease in mileage and a slight hesitation upon acceleration from a stop.
I finally got the mini vci and a win xp laptop to find the codes:
P3000
P0A82
C1310
After maybe a week or so, the ICE wouldn't start and, being busy, I parked it for a while. About a month later, I pulled codes:
P0AA6 with detail codes 526 and 613
P3000 with detail code 123
P0A82 with no detail codes but it indicates "hybrid battery pack cooling fan 1 performance/stuck off.
I connected the grid charger and the HV fan engaged, as it should. I cleared codes and took a drive, while monitoring with Techstream. I watched the fan modes climb to 6, during driving and idling, over about a half hour period. Not sure if this means anything, but I've read that people can hear the fan from the driver's seat when it's running at 3 or 4- I forget which. Well, at 3, or maybe 4, I couldn't hear it. Even standing at the rear door, with my ear against the vent. Though, there was ICE and parking lot noise to contend with. Once it got to 6, I could hear it easily.
Battery health, at that time: With fan at 6, temp of batt tb1 through tb3 was 51.6 c, 56.5 c, 50.4 c.
Battery blocks voltage ranged from 16.05 to 16.15. Internal resistance ranged from .024 to .026 ohms.
Out of necessity, I've been driving this car again, for months now. The lights came back and the codes were still P3000 with detail code 123, P0A82 with the addition of C1310. I don't see a detail code in the same place but there is a field that says "detailed freeze DTC 156". I assume this may be a detail or sub code. Nothing has been preventing me from starting the car. But months ago there had been 2 occasions when, after having driven several miles and parked for a short time, then taking the freeway home, the car would idle high going up an overpass. On these occasions, the MFD shows a low SOC with only one purple bar. The first time this happened, it took around 10 miles before the SOC would creep up. The second time, I had it on cruise control and, while ascending a grade, the car jerked violently and acted as if I were flooring and letting off the gas in quick succession, about 4 times. I disengaged cruise control and took hills more slowly. The high idle up the hills backed off as the battery SOC increased. This time the SOC started in increase within a few minutes, as I would expect normally. I imagine that the electric motor was turning off and on, when the car was jerking, due to a low SOC.
These symptoms cleared up in a few days, apart from the hesitation on accelerating from a stop, and I've been driving it ever since. A few weeks ago, I noticed the car had major difficulty accelerating. I'll floor it and it barely moves, taking several seconds longer than it should to get up to speed. The SOC is stuck at 1 purple bar. I got the car home and turned it off. When I turned it back on, the SOC increased very quickly, only once. I now can't replicate that. The SOC simply will not go above one bar.
Another odd thing. When I'm creeping down the road, at say, 25mph, and I let off the throttle, the car just keeps moving as if cruise control is engaged.
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I have a 2004 Saturn Ion and when the cruise control is engaged it makes a short ratcheting sound if I go up an incline. It sounds like it happens in front of the stick shift and it doesn't affect the rpm's or the power of the engine, it's just a weird noise. It's done that for years and hasn't increased or changed, I'm just wondering what causes it, I've never heard a car make a sound like that before.
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My cruise control does not work and the mechanic has diganosed the cruise control servo as the problem. The shop gave me an estimate of $700 (parts & labor) to replace it. Given the age of the car and the cost of repair, I am leaning towards doing it myself. I am handy with tools but have not done this type of repair before.
My question: Is there a downside to doing this repair myself. If I elect to do it myself, what do I need to watch for?
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As a precautionary measure, I recently had the timing belt replaced on my 2003 Honda Civic. The mechanic noticed that the clutch master cylinder was leaking and I also had that replaced. After the repair, I noticed that my cruise control does not work (turns-on on the dashboard but does not work). I am taking the car back to have it fixed.
My question is where/what areas should I ask the mechanic to check to fix? I am thinking it could be as simple as a disconnected connection but I am not entirely sure.
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My 2005 Toyota Prius gave me confidence. Here's what happened:
I was driving on the Interstate with the cruise control set at 70 mph. Seeing traffic stopped ahead, I applied the brakes for a moment to slow, then released the brake to coast. Much to my surprise, the cruise control was still engaged and the car accelerated. I applied the brakes again, manually turned off the cruise control, then was able to coast. I drove for another half-hour without incident until the following afternoon when I drove again, experiencing a much more serious problem.
I had just turned left, and was straightening the wheels when I heard, and felt, a loud "snap" in the steering wheel, immediately upon which I knew the steering wheel was disconnected and I could no longer steer the car. Very, very fortunately, and only because I was already nearly stopped, I was able to stop the vehicle without incident.
However, I immediately recognized that, had this happened in almost any other scenario than being nearly parked, the outcome would have been markedly different. The steering wheel is completely loose, not controlling anything, and all the many steering wheel controls are equally disconnected, including the driver's air bag (SRS), something that I would have needed, but wouldn't have worked, had I crashed into oncoming traffic or an Interstate median.
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My 2005 Mercury Montego has a weird issue with the cruise control. I have already taken it to a Ford dealer once. They claimed the switch on the brake pedal was the issue. It isn't.
At 70 mph, with cruise control OFF, take foot off accelerator and push on brake pedal. Works great.
At 70 mph, with cruise control On and engaged, the brake acts like the engine is off. It is very hard to push. It is like the engine is OFF and the vacuum assist is gone. Press really hard, and the car will slow down. Jab the brake once first (hard), then apply brakes, and it is fine. Push the cancel button on the steering wheel, and all is well. The few times I have looked, the tachometer has not moved. Car has CVT.
I bought this car new, and know it didn't always do this. And certainly shouldn't. A panic stop is scarier than it already would have been. Car has around 62000 miles on it.
Mechanic wrote that he observed the issue in a test dive and tested it following repair and it now works. I don't get this at all.
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I like to drive with cruise control engaged but I find I can't do that in my new (well, 182K 2005 6.0L) Excursion. It's holds speed just fine, but if I top a rise and start going downhill - basically when no effort needed to maintain speed - it starts chugging and shaking the whole truck real bad. It feels and sounds bad, can't be good for it (or so I've assumed in my head). It's a real staccato feeling as if fuel is being applied less than a second, stopped, reapplied. Is this something unique to the diesel (my first diesel), an issue with the cruise control (vacuum, electronic?), or what?
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I didn't feel like putting my foot on the throttle. turned on and set the cruise control at 60mph. and 5 mins later, the car slows down. i look down at the speedo and my speed is dropping.... THE CRUISE CONTROL LIGHT WENT OFF!
so I turned it back on again... set my speed. this time it stayed on for 30 seconds. turned it back on. And it shuts right off. Then I had to exit the highway. flicked the right signal... (i was expecting 3 blinks) blink pause pause pause pause half-blink.
I hit it again. this time I turned ON the right blinker. blink pause blink pause blink. I know it's late and all... I'm pretty tired myself. but the Touareg can't be tired and lazy like me! what's going on?
on top of that, earlier tonight, I hit a pothole and my left xenon went out. i thought the housing popped out, I stopped at a gas station popped the headlight back in. xenon still dead (every other bulb is still on) i thought to myself: "great. the bulb died. now I have to go home and get my old xenon bulbs" went home. swapped the xenon bulb to my old one. popped the headlight housing back in. STILL DEAD. WHAT'S GOING ON? I'm approaching 10k and my car is dying on me.
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no i am not hitting the brake.
it works intermittently.
i would turn it on, set my speed and the cruise control light would go off.
sometimes cruise will be on for 5 mins... sometimes only a few seconds.
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The cruise control quit working on my 2007 Town and Country. The indicator light in the instrument cluster flashes but won't stay on. If I have the ignition switch on but the engine off the light will come on and stay on.
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The cruise switch on my brake master cylinder is bad and causing the cruise to not work. I have it bypassed with a jumper wire and it works fine. is there any reason not to do this?
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Cruise on/off works. Light on the dash. Some days pressing the "set" switch engages immediately. Other days, press it 20 times, nothing. Guessing switch contacts could use some cleaning/replacing. Service manual doesn't address how to pull the switch on the steering wheel...
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My girlfriend and I were riding in her 2007 Camry SE about a week ago on the highway. She pushed the button on the cruise control switch to turn it on, and the button popped out of the end of the stalk (it did not completely come out, but popped out about an inch). She pushed it back in, but it won't turn the cruise on now.
What all is involved in replacing this switch? I was assuming it was as simple as removing the bottom rear cover on the steering wheel and swapping it out, but I wanted to check beforehand.
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My wife has a 2009 Camry LE, 4cyl with approximately 63,000 miles on it. Yesterday when driving it, I went to turn the cruise control off and my finger slipped, causing the button to pop out. Both of us have tried to fix it and I know I tried at least three or four different ways to reinstall the little three prong copper piece and no luck. The cruise control still refuses to work.
Having problem with the button popping out and been able to fix it? If so, how did you fix it? I hope it's something simple, such as re-installing the copper piece a certain way.
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Ive had my Camry since around September of last year. It had between 100-110k miles at the time of purchase.
In the last 3 months, Ive started to notice that sometimes when I am on the road & switch on the cruise control, the setting appears to have trouble engaging. On some occasions the cruise control does not even switch on at all when I hit the "set" button, while at other times I can feel the setting turn on and off intermittently, while I feel the engine respond accordingly with more or less gas with each time it goes on and off.I can also see the cruise control light on my dashboard begin to flash on and off each time this happens.
This does not happen every time I drive, but I must say Ive never seen anything like this before in any other car Ive ever had, and I find whats happening here to be both very strange as well as very annoying.
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On my 2009 F350 the cruise control won't stay on. The slightest bump and it turns off and I have to push the resume button. It's not the brake pedal/stop light as it will do it with me holding the pedal up. I'm guessing there is a vibration/crash sensor to turn off the cruise control in case of a wreck.
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