Honda - Accord :: 2002 - Transmission Slow From 1st To 2nd And Sticks When Dropping Down From 2nd To 1st
Aug 30, 2012
I have an 02 Honda Accord V6 LX with a bit over 142k miles and an automatic transmission. She runs fine (as far as I know). No major transmission problems, just a little slow going from 1st to 2nd and sticks just a tad when dropping down from 2nd to 1st.
Here's the question: To Flush or not to flush?
Mechanic #1 told me to never flush a transmission after 130k miles; instead, he said, I should take it to a specialist.
Mechanic #2 said a flush would be fine.
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I own a Honda Accrod 2005 V6.
I don't know much about cars, but for the past year my clutch gradually started to just stick to the floor. I'm now at 80,000 miles, the clutch doesn't slip, and it for the most part drives fine with exception to this sticking. Sometimes when this happens, the stick shift stays in gear and I can't get the stick out of gear until the clutch has been lifted up and pushed back in. It is def getting worse. I have brought it to several mechanics.
I have been told by Honda that I need to replace the clutch set (clutch disc, pressure plate, and throw out bearing) and the clutch master and slave cylinder.After another mechanics look over, they also did confirm the same as honda but stated to get a new cut flywheel.
But after several other mechanics look-overs, they told me that the clutch is fine, so they recommended me to get the master and slave cylinders replaced.
So, trying to save money a mechanic told me to take one step at a time and see how it goes. He said he will bleed the slave and master cylinders and see if it is just an air pocket. That didn't work, so I trusted him and he replaced the master cylinder, but the problem still exists. He said the next thing to do is maybe to do a new slave cylinder. I'm now contemplating.
Another mechanic took a look after the work was done and said there is no leaking.
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2002 Honda Accord V6 230,000+ miles----The engine is good (well good for having been driven over 230,00miles) a/c is cold, interior is good, exterior is good. Transmission, not so good. Big question is do I (well, not me personally)put in a re-built trans. and keep driving or buy a newer car. This is one of three cars I own, but it gets driven a lot
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We took our car in for a regular oil change and to get the 60K belt work done. While in the car they discovered that the transmission was slipping and that we were missing one of the motor mounts. They did the belt work and the oil change and then put some fluid in our car hoping that would buy us some time with our transmission. To save us time and money they said we could wait a little while on the motor mount. When I drove it home the whole car shifted and shook whenever we would come to a stop and then it would shake while idling. I called our mechanic back and they said to bring it in and that fixing the rear motor mount should take care of the problem. While back at the mechanic for the motor mount they discovered that the transmission additive had not worked and we needed a new one.
We bought a rebuilt one and now we are still left with a car that shakes when we are idling. We have had the car in two or three times after the transmission was put in for them to try and fix the issue. They have done everything short of removing the engine without any luck. Just to be sure they covered every possible angle, they just gave us new spark plugs, ignition wires, distributor rotor, distributor cap and PCV valve, but it didn't seem to do anything. The car shakes the most while idling in Drive, somewhat less in Park, somewhat less than that in Neutral and not at all in Reverse. The shaking gets even stronger if the A/C or defroster is turned on. It seems to be even worse when stopped on a downward slope. It has been several months of this and the shaking is incredibly annoying. Is there anything else our mechanic could look into?
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I have a 2002 Honda Accord SE Sedan. 119K miles. The transmission slips sometimes especially when I start after stopping at a red light. My mechanic recommended not to change the transmission fluid as the transmission can go down and might need a new transmission. He also told me that 2002 Honda Accords are known for this issue.
So my question: Is my mechanic right? Or should I go ahead and flush the transmission fluid and replace it?
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Honda Accord 2005 ... Just bought a new used car. All seems ok, but I have two problems.
(1) when not moving, i have slop in the steering and I can hear metal on metal contact when I turn the steering wheel. I pulled the tire and with basically no force I can move the rotor back and forth by hand. what it is and how to fix it?
(2) when braking, it appears that the front left pad sticks. Pads are not excessively worn down. Can't figure out how to get to the caliper pins ( thought they might be sticking).
Could the two be related?
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At any speed my car likes to slow down a bit then go back up to speed... feels like little mini lurches. Why... dirty fuel injectors?
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My Honda has a pop or clunk when braking at low speeds( below 5mph) just before coming to a stop. It will pop as I start forward again (below 5mph). It only occurs when the outside temperature is above 90-95 degrees and after driving for 10-15 minutes. Dealership has looked at it twice and has not found any issue. I've changed brake pads and rotors as well as lubricated everything - didn't work. Brake performance, handling, etc isn't affected. It's highly annoying and makes me worry that something will eventually fail.
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I have a 93 Honda accord EX and most times when i drive it, the car will become unresponsive to the gas and slow down and then speed back up. I went to a shop can Budget transmissions and they told me that the problem was it need a new fuel pump and when I asked them if that was for sure the problem they said yes. He told me to get fuel additive to clean out the engine cause it may still be a little laggy.
I drove the car to autozone and then home and it drove perfectly. A few hours later it did the unresponsive thing again and when i told the mechanic he said i had to put about 70 miles on it. I HAVE DRIVEN OVER 100 MILES NOW and it still lags like I haven't even gotten the fuel pump replaced. I haven't called the mechanic yet and i wanted to know if i should ask for a refund or what to do. My brother also said it may be the oxygen sensor haven gone bad so should I ask the mechanic to replace it for free?
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I own a 1999 Honda Accord w/160K miles. This past summer my car would occasionally stall while driving at slow speeds (when the car, an automatic transmission, was in low gear). Usually I'd be able to start it right back up with no problems. In some cases I'd have to hold the ignition switch for about three seconds. As the weather cooled in the autumn (I live in New England) the problem disappeared. However, in the last couple of weeks the problem has started up again only now I have trouble restarting the car. I have to wait a couple of minutes before it'll start up again. It has the feel of a flooded engine. The car also idles rather low...at around 800 rpm. I don't think it's a battery or alternator because all of the electric apps.(power locks, windows, radio, etc.) work after the car stalls. I'm bringing my car in for regular maintenance but would like to know what to tell my mechanic to look for.
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I'm a bit concerned about my faithful old 1997 Honda Accord DX.
I noticed a particularly slow start a few weeks ago, so I went to Batteries and Bulbs for a quick check. The battery, which was a little over a year old, was already half dead. They swapped it out under partial warranty in case that was the cause.
This morning - same deal. It turned over 4-5 times with a particularly large squeal in the middle of the cranking, but it finally started. I drove it ten minutes and parked it at my normal mechanic (met a friend there to drive her to work, since her Honda has a check engine light on) and it cranked up immediately there. Turned over once, and fired right up.
The last time I thought I heard a funny noise on starting and took it to get checked out (and get an oil change at the same time), my mechanic swore everything was fine. In fact, he said "Your car is perfect." I'm concerned if I take it in without having some suggestions on what to check this time that I'll be dismissed as a car hypochondriac.
The car has 222K miles on it. Last tune up was around 200K miles, last timing belt change at 190K miles.
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On cold and/or wet days weak engine cranking. After a couple of attempts to start, I only hear a click about the 3rd attempt. If I wait about a minute or two, it still cranks slow but starts. Battery was replaced about 6 months ago. Electrical systems test good indicating no problem with battery, altenator, or starter. I don't seem to have any problem on warm days. My car is 4-cyl with about 85,000 miles and is kept in an unheated garage. Mechanic thinks trouble is likely the starter. Problem is intermittent, I'm not sure replacing the starter will fix the problem.
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My 2002 Honda Accord (225000 miles) would not start this morning. It rained all night so I am going to remove plugs, wires, and cap to dry out. The car was not choking or stalling yesterday, so I don't think it is a fuel issue i.e., fuel pump.
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MY 1993 Honda Accord has been having trouble starting a few times and now the transmission is slipping. It has close to 200 Thousand miles.
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I am the original owner of a 1999 Honda Accord (automatic transmission) which now has 184,000 miles on it. I just replaced all the tires last year, had to put in a new battery this year, also had to replace the a/c hoses earlier in July.Very recently I had had some problems with the car shifting and when the check engine light came on I took it into the dealership who says it needs a new transmission. They want $4200 to fix it.I have had all the servicing done including oil and filter changes at this dealership which is in Houston, TX.I really like this car, and its the fourth Honda we have owned; three of which were purchased with this same dealer.
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I took my 2000 Honda Accord to the mechanic and he told me my transmission is failing. He suggested that I put in a re-built transmission. I trust my mechanic, but considering the car has 207,000 miles on it I am not sure if it is a wise investment. Besides the jerking the car is in good condition and have taken it to the same mechanic for maintenance since I bought it 14 years ago, but I am not sure how long a re-built transmission will last. I only need to get 2-3 more years out of this car until I save up enough money to buy a new car.
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When I had other repairs done they told me that problem was in the number 2 cylinder and it was an internal problem. It was out of their league. I called Honda dealership, they had a girl on the phone and she said she couldn't give me a quote I would have to pay 85. to find out what it was. I don't think she knew what she was talking about. i need a quote how much this should be to fix it before I pay 85. for something that maybe thousands of dollars to fix. The car jerks when it is going into another gear especially in the 1st and 2nd gear. It like shoots off. Jerks and then kicks. If ya know what I mean. Like a transmission slip but I had that checked, that wasn't it. confirmed 2 places that is not the issue.
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I accidentally left my sons 2002 Honda Accord EX engine running overnight for about 15 hours. He drove the car and said most of the gas was gone and that the car was jerking while he was driving. Will the car be fine?
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I have a 2009 Accord. Twice on long trips (~40 miles) in the rain, the car started missing badly, and the check engine light began blinking on and off. The first time, I pulled over and shut it off, restarted it, and everything was fine. A few weeks later, I took it for an oil change, and told the mechanic about it. He checked for codes, but there were none. The next time it happened (again on a rainy day on the same 40 mile route), I shut it off, turned it on, and drove straight to the dealer. He said it was 2.5 qts low on oil, and that could make it act that way. I check my oil regularly, so I was really surprised at that. It hasn’t happened again, but now I’m really obsessive about checking (and recording) oil. It’s always full, never low – except that twice, after the car has sat all day in cold weather, the dipstick was dry. I drove it home (a couple of miles), let it sit for an hour and checked the oil to find it full both times. I’m religious about changing the oil, so I doubt that there’s sludge in there…
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I just had my Accord's two front lower ball joints replaced, and - amazingly - the day I got it back, the ABS would kick in when the car was braking from 10-5mph. Brought it back to the mechanic, who told me very sadly (after diagnosis) that one of the ABS axle sensors had gone bad. "Related to the repair you just did?" I asked - oh, no, of course not, these things just happen sometimes. I'm not terribly happy, and not terribly convinced, and I thought hey - what better community to bounce this off of. How easy is it to hose an ABS sensor when you're replacing ball joints?
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This is for a 2002 Honda Accord, SE 4 Cyl.
For over a year I have been getting a CEL for a misfire of Cylinders 1 and 2. I did a standard tune up, Changing the spark plugs, wires and distributor cap, but to no avail. Having reached the end of my knowledge, I took it to the Honda dealership to see if they could fix it. They told me it was the ignition coil, so I replaced the coil. That didn't solve the problem so I brought it back to the dealership, which proceeded to tell me that I needed to use Honda spark plug wires and distributor cap. They replaced the wires and cap with Honda parts and told me it was fixed. On the drive home, I noticed the misfire again. Back to the dealership. 2 weeks later I finally get sick of waiting and go pick up my car. Here's the list of things they claim they tried:
Compression Check
Sea Foam
Swapping fuel injectors
Changing the distributor
After none of these things worked, I decided to take the car to another mechanic, who told me that the distrubutor and EGR valve needed replacing. They assured me that that was the problem, but after that didn't work, they still charged me to adjust the valves.
Later I tried changing the PCV valve, now losing hope that anything would work....and no, that didn't work.
Strangely enough, as winter rolled around the CEL went off, and the car misfired much less. Now summer is back, and so is the CEL...
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