Honda - Accord :: 2002 - Old / Weak Brake System - Replacing Master Cylinder?
Mar 6, 2013
I have a 2002 Accord with about 130k miles on it and the brakes don't have nearly the power that they used to. The pads and rotors are due for replacement but even then, the system is pretty weak. Would replacing the master cylinder? What about simply replacing the brake fluid (I doubt it has ever been changed)? And/or the calipers? The car is in great condition and I really like it so I don't mind investing some time and money to get more years out of it.
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I am looking for a how to vid or resource on doing the job right. I purchased the complete replacement master cylinder from Napa. 2002 7.3 Powerstroke
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I have changed the clutch master cylinder on my '03 Honda Accord (6 cyl.) six times in the past 12 months. Either the o ring seal blows out or the bolts holding the plate down breaks off. I bleed the clutch of bubbles until the oil runs through also. What am I doing wrong?, I'm about to send this car packing.
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ll, I changed out the master cylinder on my 2002 F-150, disk brakes front and back w/ ABS. Bleed all the air out and bench bleed the master cylinder. I have good pedal but the brake light will not go out.
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I bought a 2002 accord with 105800 miles 3 weeks ago. I got the timing belt and water pump replaced within a week of that. I have noticed that the car makes a high pitch noise upon accelerating after replacing the belt. It does not happen always, but sometimes. I have noticed it on 3 days in last 2 weeks. A preliminary web search tells me that it could be a tight timing belt.
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As you can glean from Discussion Title, I have a 97 Honda Accord that has been weak in producing cold air with the a/c on since we bought it three years ago. The car has been the "third car" for kids to drive so not a big deal. Now that one of the "kids" is commuting this summer to an internship, the hot car is a problem. I drove the car this morning as I just drive to the train, and noticed mist coming out of the dashboard vents when the a/c was on. The mist stopped when the a/c was turned off.
Does this misting mean we have an evaporator core leak, or other problem? It certainly doesn't seem like just a freon boost is needed. If the evaporator core needs to be replaced, how bad a job is that? I replaced one in a '72 Plymouth Duster once and didn't seem so bad.
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I have a wiring issue. I have found a broken conductor in my brake light system, which causes my right and high-mount brake lights not to function. If I give the wire a good wiggling and fanangaling, I can get all the brake lights to come on, but eventually they go out again after driving for a few days. The problem I have is this: I don't know how to release the wire from its terminations. Unfortunately, I think the break is close to the connector (away from the bulb socket), so I can't just cut out the middle and splice in a new conductor. How to free the wires from this connector and bulb socket? I'm afraid to do too much tinkering for fear of pulling loose another, undamaged wire. The wire in question is the orange one.
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I'm having trouble bleeding the air out of my slave cylinder or master cylinder in my clutch system. I've been trying for a couple days now is there a trick to this?
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Which line goes to front brakes and which to rear from the master cylinder?
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I had this sad puppy noise coming from my brakes so I have now replaced my brake booster. When doing so I took my old brake master cylinder and put it on my new brake booster. When trying to bench bleed it it only came fluid from the P marked circuit. It came no fluid from "S". I guess it stands for primary and secondary.
I thought it was because I couldn't press the piston hard enough so I installed it in the car so I could use the brake pedal to get more power. But still no fluid from "S". Is the brake master cylinder faulty? The rear discs are unevenly worn.
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I replaced my MC cap and gasket less than a year ago with a Dorman replacement and I'm leaking again, already. I don't want this to be an annual thing! Any good quality replacement? Is there any tip or trick to get the gasket to seal better?
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Replaced clutch master cylinder last week. Now when I accelerate it revs the RPM's and finally catches after about 5-10 seconds. Is this related to the previous repair? They are saying needing new clutch. What to do?
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I have leased my 2012 prius since April 2012 and about a year ago I began to notice the following noise originating from the master cylinder/ABS unit. The noise happens if I push the pedal firmly to the floor and occasionally during regular braking. The braking system seems to be working fine and regen braking is functional. I am wondering if this noise is a sign of an imminent failure.
Listen to audio recording....
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I have a '99 Silverado 250 with a leak between the brake reservoir and the master cyl. Mechanics tell me there is no gasket. How can I get it to stop leaking?
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Early 70's Ford truck. The brake MC fluid is filled but not overfilled, and doesn't leak at all when the truck is parked. It can sit there for a month and never leak a drop, parked. But when I drive the truck, even just around the block, then park, and look inside the engine compartment immediately the brake MC is dripping brake fluid. It appears the leaking mode is by the fluid somehow jumping up and coming over the top edge of the MC when the truck is in motion or when the brakes are applied. All my diy'er years of replacing brake master cylinders on Ford Galaxies, VW Rabbits, Corollas, and this truck, I've never seen this kind of weird brake problem before. On this MC design it seems there's sort of a rubber baffle inside the lid of the MC, and that's present and accounted for.
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My 2003 Toyota 4 Runner with 104K miles recently started showing a brake light off and on. The brake fluid reservoir was at the minimum level and there was some residue leaking from the bottom near a silver disc. Took it to a mechanic and was told it was most likely the master cylinder leaking brake fluid. Is this normal wear and tear or is it unusual in this vintage vehicle? I do not notice any brake slippage at this point. Should I take this to the dealer and ask why this master cylinder is faulty? I thought Toyotas were long life vehicles?
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92 Regal Custom, 3.8L .... I need to replace master cylinder on mother in laws car. How do I determine if it has the Durastop brake system or not?? Any factory code in glove box or trunk, if so what is the code to look for?
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I've got an o2 camry with 150K that seems to be losing brake fluid from the "right" side of the reservoir. Which brake lines are supplied by the "right" half of the master cylinder reservoir? I have read that they could be diagonally piped.
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Just purchased a 2003 GX470 with 160k and after the low brake fluid light came on I noticed the master cylinder had a leak. After removing the cover it appears the fluid has leaked for quite some time as the paint has started pealing from the frame. The brakes however appear to be working correctly. Upon purchase the front calipers were seized and I replaced both front calipers.
After having someone depress the brake pedal while I watched, the fluid leaks from the end of the master cylinder each time pedal is pressed in.
After doing some research it appears there is a rebuild kit for the master cylinder.
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I recently bought a 2004 GX 470 with 89k miles. My dad did the 90k service like a champ and it runs very smoothly. However, I have recently noticed what I believe to be the brake master cylinder, which on a regular basis, has to keep compressing for about 4-6 seconds even while driving. We filled the fluid and it seemed to stop as I was pumping the brakes to test. But the next day it started again and the fluid is still at MAX level.
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So my May 2007 V6 Sonata with 143,000 km (89k miles) had the red parking brake light come on. Master cylinder level was low and there was evidence of something leaking on the driveway. Below the very back of the driver seat.
At the dealership they say I've got a leak in my brake lines. Say that the fuel lines should be replaced too since they are in the same compartment. So if one goes the other may not be far behind.
I was out of town and the car couldn't be driven safely so I was pretty much stuck there.When the dealership did the work a rusted bolt snapped near the fuel tank and they said that added an additional hour of labour to the work. In the end I wasn't charged for it. Tech said he had never seen a Sonata have the brake lines rust out like that. I got the brake and fuel lines done cause I plan on owning it for 6+ years.
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