Honda - Accord :: 2002 LE With Automatic Transmission Shakes When It Idles
Jun 4, 2011
We took our car in for a regular oil change and to get the 60K belt work done. While in the car they discovered that the transmission was slipping and that we were missing one of the motor mounts. They did the belt work and the oil change and then put some fluid in our car hoping that would buy us some time with our transmission. To save us time and money they said we could wait a little while on the motor mount. When I drove it home the whole car shifted and shook whenever we would come to a stop and then it would shake while idling. I called our mechanic back and they said to bring it in and that fixing the rear motor mount should take care of the problem. While back at the mechanic for the motor mount they discovered that the transmission additive had not worked and we needed a new one.
We bought a rebuilt one and now we are still left with a car that shakes when we are idling. We have had the car in two or three times after the transmission was put in for them to try and fix the issue. They have done everything short of removing the engine without any luck. Just to be sure they covered every possible angle, they just gave us new spark plugs, ignition wires, distributor rotor, distributor cap and PCV valve, but it didn't seem to do anything. The car shakes the most while idling in Drive, somewhat less in Park, somewhat less than that in Neutral and not at all in Reverse. The shaking gets even stronger if the A/C or defroster is turned on. It seems to be even worse when stopped on a downward slope. It has been several months of this and the shaking is incredibly annoying. Is there anything else our mechanic could look into?
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We have a '94 Honda accord that the automatic transmission started "slipping" in a week ago. It has 240K and runs good otherwise. It was sliping after it warms and seemed to slip mainly while shifting from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th while accelerating quickly. If you take it real easy on the gas it does not seem to slip much (the engine revs and the car does not seem to be accelerating, so I assume that means it's slipping - maybe not?).
I don't believe the auto trans fluid had been changed in over 100K+. The car sat for about 2 years and then I changed oil, replaced tires & battery and started using it with no probs until this (I've been using it for about a month now).
Today I changed the auto trans fluid (very dark/dirty but no real burn smell - and just a little metallic "shavings" on the magnetic drain plug), and drove the car fairly hard and heated everything up real good and it hardly slips at all now.
My questions are - with the fluid change making such a drastic improvement (at least for now), should I repeat the process and change it again? Should I try an aftermarket "miracle" additive to claims to prevent slipping? What about trying the Honda brand fluid vs. the "Autostore" brand Dexron VI that is recommended for Hondas requiring Dexron II (apparently they don't make D-II anymore)? Could it be something else - sensor, linkage, etc. (seems doubtful with the improvement with the fluid change?)?
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2002 Honda Accord V6 230,000+ miles----The engine is good (well good for having been driven over 230,00miles) a/c is cold, interior is good, exterior is good. Transmission, not so good. Big question is do I (well, not me personally)put in a re-built trans. and keep driving or buy a newer car. This is one of three cars I own, but it gets driven a lot
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I have an 02 Honda Accord V6 LX with a bit over 142k miles and an automatic transmission. She runs fine (as far as I know). No major transmission problems, just a little slow going from 1st to 2nd and sticks just a tad when dropping down from 2nd to 1st.
Here's the question: To Flush or not to flush?
Mechanic #1 told me to never flush a transmission after 130k miles; instead, he said, I should take it to a specialist.
Mechanic #2 said a flush would be fine.
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I have a 2002 Honda Accord SE Sedan. 119K miles. The transmission slips sometimes especially when I start after stopping at a red light. My mechanic recommended not to change the transmission fluid as the transmission can go down and might need a new transmission. He also told me that 2002 Honda Accords are known for this issue.
So my question: Is my mechanic right? Or should I go ahead and flush the transmission fluid and replace it?
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Have a 2004 GMC 4x4 extended cab light-duty Sierra 2500 with about 40 K miles. When attempting to start and drive the pick-up after the pick-up has been parked for a few weeks, the vehicle has to idle for perhaps 1 minute before the automatic transmission will start the move the vehicle. Also have similar 1991 GMC pick-up that will engage almost immediately after starting the vehicle, despite having been parked for a similar length of time. Did not seem to notice on 2004 when the vehicle was new, but, has become more apparent during the last year. GMC maintenance and repair have no explanation. Once the 2004 is warmed-up and driven, no problem - the transmission kicks-in immediately; but, not after being parked for any extended length of time. So what gives here?
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I have 2009 Honda Accord with approximately 66,000 miles (I drive 70 miles r/t to work every day). I had service done on my car the other day to get the front brake rotors replaced and four new tires. Upon receiving my car and driving to Boston the car began to shake at highway speeds (50+). I took it back to the mechanic and they re-balanced the tires. I drove to work the next day and the car still shakes (albeit now at 60+). Today the mechanic rotated the tires in case there was a bent rim in the front causing this. However, on my drive today the car still shakes (though it's not as violent or noticeable as the trip to Boston).
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I have a 2000 honda accord. v6. 148,000 miles. For a few years now my car has been doing this thing where I start it, it shakes, then shuts off. I have to rev the engine for awhile to get it to start. I've taken it in at least 5 times and nobody can figure it out. It happens sporadically (seems to be more so when I'm running errands so starting and turning it off a lot). It may happen once every few months, maybe twice in one week. Now, I recently got an oil leak. Replaced valve cover gaskets, which I was told the main source of the leak and originally they thought the oil filter housing was leaking but it's the oil pump. Is it worth replacing the oil pump on this car, given the first problem?
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I drive a 2003 Honda Accord and it shakes violently whenever I'm accelerating between 55 and 65 mph. If you put a shaker on the passenger seat, you'd have a martini. Approaching 55, it's fine, and then it shakes as I go up to 65 and then smooths out when I pass 65. If I am cruising, but not accelerating in between 55 and 65, it stops shaking, but once I hit the gas, it shakes.
The same phenomenon occurs in both third and fourth gears, so it doesn't appear to be related to what part of the power band the car is in. This model Accord had a recall on the engine mounts, which I had replaced at no small cost already.
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This is a carburetor model of the 1988 Honda accord I fixed the vacuum leak, and it is not gummed up from ethenal I still have Idle issue where the car wants to die unless I keep it revved up and when up put it in drive it wants to stall out but i can keep it going by letting of the gas and them giving it more gas. Does the carbonated model have the Idle air control valve and a fast idle valve or is that just on the fuel injection engines. Because every one on line claims this is the areas to look at but I can not find them on my 88 Honda where they explain to find these valves.
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Honda Accord 2004 EX V6 150,000 Miles. The car is paid off, I'm the original owner and it has no problems, apart from it seems like the clutch is beginning to wear down. Some times in drive when I step on the gas it spins up just a little and jerks forward. Is is worth getting the clutch repaired?
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My 2005 Accord steering wheel shakes quite a bit when I start to accelerate. I had the tires rebalanced, and it's still happening. The dealership indicated that there was "play" in both axles, and they both needed to be replaced ..... There's 85,000 miles on the vehicle and it's in excellent condition, could this shaking be caused by something else ?
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I have a 2000 Honda Accord EX v6 and I have been taking it the dealer for regular maintenance and Oil Change but today I noticed my Car would not start
I can hear the engine start , but when I put the Gear (automatic ) in either reverse or D4 the engine will stop.
Then I waited for some time and restarted it and It was OK.
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I have a 1998 Honda Accord 4 cylinder with roughly 150k miles. When the weather is cold outside the steering wheel will shake until the car warms up. I have taken the car into the shop and they checked the engine mounts, tie rods, etc and they told me that the car is fine. The tires are not unbalanced nor are they packed with dirt or debris. The vibration only occurs when the car is cold and it goes away once the car warms up. Also, the vibration will stop when I simply place a small amount of pressure on the steering wheel with my hand or knee. The vibration does not occur when I am driving at low or high speeds and it usually only occurs when I am stopped at stop signs or lights.
I have done the regular maintenance on the vehicle and I have replaced the timing belt, spark plugs/ wires, belt(s), etc, if that make a difference.
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I own a '90 Honda Accord and it constantly shakes, has poor acceleration and seems to use too much gas. I thought it was the catalytic converter and I installed a high flow cat. The fuel pump went out so I had that replaced. It shakes less since replacing the cat but I still see the gas gauge go down too low when I press on the gas and the car will stall and stop as I get to "E" when normally I was able to drive many miles past "E". Any guesses? I'm wondering if I need to replace the fuel pressure regulator.
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2001 Accord, 6cyl. 3.0, automatic transmission. The last few weeks its been shifting a little rougher, but nothing thatd alarm me. Then last night, the check engine light popped on and the little green light around the D4 on the dash began blinking. I turned it off for a minute, restarted it and blinking light was gone but not check engine. Sat there and shifted through all the gears and the only thing I don't like is when i go from D3 to 2 and back. It shifts real hard there. Not as hard shifting back from 2 to D3 though. All other gears shift fine.
Also, I checked the fluid on the dipstick and it was right under the lower dot. Its my wifes old car and she "doesn't remember" if shes ever had the tranny flushed and a buddy said if it hasn't been flushed regularly by this point(125K miles), not a good idea to flush, just drain and refill. (Green blinking light around gear indicator) and what was the fix? Is it difficult to drain/refill the tranny and can I refill this model through the dipstick or do I have to get underneath? Do I REALLY have to use Honda ATF only or can I use whatever??
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I have a 2008 Honda Fit. It is a manual transmission. I'd like to convert it to an automatic. Is this possible?
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We have a 2003 Honda Civic EX with a manual transmission (5spd). Two of my daughters are close to getting their drivers license, however, they don't drive stick and are hesitant to learn how. My wife is asking me how difficult or expensive it would be to have an automatic transmission placed in the car so they can use it. The car is in excellent shape. It only has 67,000 miles. Is this feasible? Why or why not? If it is feasible who could do it?
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I recently replaced the transmission in my car. I put new oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket and plugs in it. Got everything back together and now it won't stay running. It starts but will not stay running . I pulled the plugs out to find they were the wring ones that a was sold So They gave me the correct ones. Still doing the same thing. I've checked every connection. All are plugged in all lines are hooked up.
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2002 passat wagon 1.8 automatic 210000km and fantastic running. Last week VW garage noticed some liquid around the transmission but weren't sure if it comes out of it. Might be from above transmission dripping on to it. They shampooed the transmission and will check next week where it exactly comes from.
What to do if the dealer tells me it is the transmission. This dealer is fabulous - actually treated me very fairly during the past 8 years. Car runs like a swiss watch and don't notice anything different shifting. I believe it is not worth it replacing a transmission for this old (but very good) car.
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My 202 Honda Civic EX is having serious 'bad vibes' that the mechanic has not been able to fix. actually, i don't think he has even driven my car, much less even tried to fix the problem. meanwhile, it's driving me crazy. the mechanic just replaced the motor mounts. I got in the car and the problem is STILL there. the vibration is easy to see when the car is idling - the hood vibrates and the rear view mirror also shakes, I can feel the vibration in the driver seat and steering wheel. i can also feel the vibration in the passenger seat, though it is a little less noticeable. There is also a noise to go along with the vibration, especially when idling, it sounds as if i need a new muffler, but i can't hear the sound outside of the car, only inside the car. What the problem is?
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