Honda - Accord :: 2002 - Bad Vibration When Stopped And In Drive
Jan 22, 2014
My car vibrates really bad when stopped and in drive. It does not vibrate in park or neutral. I took the car into my local mechanic who replaced the spark plugs, idle air control valve, throttle body gasket, charged me and it actually runs worse. The mechanic assigned to my car said he couldn't feel it so just replaced what he thought might be causing this vibration. It took me a day to calm down and take the car back and speak to the manager of the department who was amazed at how bad the car vibrated. 2002 Honda Accord 86,000 miles....
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So I backed into a pole in a parking lot the other day with my 1996 Honda Accord. After that I've noticed a creaking noise when I get into my car and when I'm driving it, EXCEPT when I take hard turns... then there's no noise. I can reproduce the noise by pushing on my bumper. The only visible damage to my bumper is a little scraping around where the exhaust pipe is. Is this just the bumper itself making this creaking noise or could it be something more serious?
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1991 Honda Auto trans, 247k miles. We now have the third transmission in the car and it still does not shift into over-drive-4th. Odds seem poor that all 3 were actually bad.What now?
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So I've been experiencing some shaking in my automatic 2001 Honda Accord EX Coupe 3.0L V6. The shaking starts at about 40mph and can last up to about 55-60 mph when it starts to fade away or become unnoticeable. The shaking is a lot more noticeable when your on an incline and accelerating. The shaking feels as though it rocks side-to-side but my steering wheel doesn't shake or pull. I've gotten my car tires/wheels balanced, replaced the wheels/rims, go new tires, had everything balanced again, and got an alignment done.
Since I used to think that the shaking was more prevalent in the back end of the car, I replaced the sway bar link stabilizers as directed by a friend. Needless to say, none of those things stopped the shaking. My first set of wheels/rims had one bent rim, so it shook because of that and couldn't really distinguish that there was something else beyond the bent wheel that could cause the shaking. So that's why I had to replace those wheels and tires. My new wheels required hub rings so discount tire put those on when installing them.
I've had my car lowered using lowering springs, which dropped the car about 1.8-2 inches. I had that done over a year ago and really don't think that's what would have caused the shaking. I say that because I've had those springs for a pretty long time and I wasn't experiencing any shaking after installing them. I know that my car doesn't have a stock camber kit that allows for lowering the car. But I'm not worried about the camber even though it does wear out the inside of the tire faster than the outside. I've had my exhaust done as well.
It goes from the catalytic converter to the back (cat-back) with a 2.5 inch piping. There's no leaks or anything and it's not loose either. And those are pretty much the only things I've done to upgrade my car. Of course I get regular oil changes and I recently did a transmission flush (drain and fill). I've been reading up on what could cause the shaking, through online threads, and all I can see that might be the cause is the CV axles? They've had the same issues that I'm having, replaced the axles, and that fixed their shaking.
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I have a 2002 honda accord I4 coupe (ULEV edition) with a peculiar problem. The problem is that the pistons are pushing down too hard on the connecting rod/crank shaft bearings (creating a banging noise when I drive or accelerate in neutral). It could be a timing issue (spark igniting too early?) but the check engine light is not on.
I have had a mechanic look at the engine and they have determined that
1) Oil pressure is normal
2) Bearing clearance is good (meets specification)
3) Cam timing is good.
4) Balance shaft clearance is good
5) Thrust clearance is good
The mechanics are not sure what is causing the problem. What else to check? Seafoam was added to the gas tank weeks before the problem surfaced. Could the car's computer be damaged?
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I have a 2003 Honda Accord with 207,000 miles on it. It's been doing the following:
- From Reverse to Drive, there’s a 2 - 3 second pause before it engages
- Sometimes when driving at higher speeds (55 - 70mph) then slowing down for a light or an exit, the car will sort of lurch/jerk around 30mph on the slow down. It’s very noticeable.
- Check Engine light has been coming on off for months. I thought it was a gas cap issue but the mechanic said it’s a P0506 code.
- Hard shifting in my day-to-day driving- Just fyi, we had the transmission rebuilt a year and a half ago.
We’ve taken it to the transmission shop twice and they said they don’t feel the things we describe and are getting no codes. We’ve taken it to the Honda dealer twice and the honda mechanic did a software update that didn’t fix the issue. I took it back and then he said he felt the hard shift/delay from R to D and that it is a transmission issue because the engine wouldn’t be engaged at all from R to D. The CE light wasn’t on for that visit and wasn't giving a code but then the CE light came back on when I was on my way back to the transmission shop. I read that there are specific things to do to try to clear the P0506 code (clean the throttle body, check for vacuum leaks, etc.) but our Honda dealer didn’t do any of those things.
Is there an engine issue related to the P0506 code that could make my car do these things but feel like a transmission issue even if it’s not (since I’m not getting any transmission codes)? Could I have two separate issues - whatever is triggering the P0506 code and then whatever is making the car shift hard, slow to engage, and jerk when slowing down? My transmission guy told me since they’re not feeling anything or getting any codes, the only thing left for them to do is take out the transmission. I’m at a loss and feel like I’m wasting their time, but there’s definitely something wrong.
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As outlined in this thread: [URL] .....
I had a recent misfire issue. Unfortunately the dealer has been unable to find the source. Since the original misfire I can feel the car vibrating when I am in drive or reverse and am stopped with the brake applied (ex - waiting at a stop light). It goes away when I drive and when I am in neutral. I realize there is SOME vibration noticeable in gear, possibly because of the way the engine is mounted. However, this seems different.
The tach stays at 750 rpm in idle (it may fluctuate a TINY bit but never goes over 800 at idle) as always. The vibration feels much like a vibration one would feel if a cell phone or pager were left on vibrate. This doesn't seem to be a rough idle where the car is "jittery" or "jerks", and, as mentioned, the rpm doesn't change.
I would think a bad coilpack or plug (plugs changed at 40K, Im now at 45k) would cause a misfire, and a CEL. I've looked into a throttle body cleaning and will do this, but I would think that would cause a rough idle as well. My understanding is that a MAF problem would be similar.
The only thing I can think of is a motor or tranny mount issue, but the car only has 45k miles and this problem was non existent until the misfire. Im almost certain it isn't related to having the car lowered recently.
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My husband's 1999 (manual transmission) Honda Accord has suddenly gone from a very reliable vehicle to a very big problem. Last week, he experienced problems while driving in fourth gear going up hill at around 45 MPH. The car essentially stopped pulling him up the hill, so he went into third, and got nothing, then second, and got nothing. It took a few tries to re-start the car, which then started idling at lower-than-usual RPM's.
He revved the engine a bit, gave it a test drive, and was able to get to his destination without any more problems. The next day, at about the same place in the road, he experienced something similar, but this time, he revved the engine to increase the RPM's while in fourth gear and was able to make it through without any stalls. This morning, however, his car did not start. The engine will turn over, but it is not engaging. It does not seem to be an electrical problem, since the engine is turning over. No warning or "check engine" lights have come on at this point.
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I have a 99 Honda Accord with 172K miles on it. In the last couple months it's started slipping more often than when the problem first started about 4-5ish months ago. It tends to lurch when I start going again from a stopped position and I'm also now noticing it lurching a bit when I go from a slower speed to a faster one while driving...it's more noticeable going from a faster to slower speed when driving. So it tends to lurch most from a stopping position and also when slowing down while going moderate speeds like 40 or 50 mph.
I took it to a shop and they said it's in the begging stages of failure and that I can either rebuild the tranny or drive it until it dies, but that it will die eventually. My question is since it's slipping, is it still ok to drive on longer drives? I was considering driving about 7 hours to see my family in a month or so and I'm not sure if it's worth the risk of driving it that far. I want to buy a new car, but there's more Hondas around where I'm from originally and I just want to get a decent used one since it will cost more to fix the transmission than the car is worth. Thoughts about driving long distances with a slipping transmission????
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I have a 1994 Honda Accord EX AT. Recently, while I am stopped at a Stop Sign or a Red Light, the car will suddenly start moving forward causing me to apply more pressure to the brakes. It also feels that the brake pedal is traveling a lot further now.
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I have a 2003 Honda Accord. I've had an issue with steering wheel vibration for the past 10 months. In that time, I've installed new hubcentric rings for my after market wheels, gotten my tires balanced, bought a whole new set of tires all together, and changed my cv axles twice. I still experience vibration in the steering wheel when I get up to 60 mph and all the way up to 80 mph. At times I have had vibration at low speeds, around 20 mph, but that was solved first when I installed the hubcentric rings, and again most recently with this second set of cv axles. Am I missing something or will I have to chase a solution to this problem until I am bankrupt?
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I have a NEW (purchased May 18th) 2012 Honda Accord. After starting the car there is a small vibration at 16-18 mph which I feel slightly in the gas pedal. A week ago, it started making a slight click when the car reaches 30 mph. This happens only when the first time it reaches these speeds when the car is started. Once started, I can stop and start (without turning off the car) as many times as I need without the sound. However, if I turn the car off and back on, the sounds happens again.
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I have a problem with vibration in steering wheel and at speeds of 50 to 60 mph. It also vibrates at idle. This problem did not start until we had new brakes and rotors turn. We also have had tires rotated and balance. They told us we needed new motor mounts. We had them replace and the shake got worse. They replaced the front axles and the transmission mount. I also bought two new tires.
This started out when we took our car to have the tires rotated and balance. The Mechanic told us we needed new brakes, so we took it to get this done. we are now having all kinds of problems as I stated above. Took it to the Honda place here and one person told us it was not worth fixing. I do not believe this. The car has a little over a 115,000 miles on it. I have been driving a Honda since 1992. This car we bought new and I know it has been service.. One person at the Honda place here said he could replace all the mounts and would not promise it would fix it. We have even had one of the new tires replace because they said it was bad.
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My daughter's 02 Honda Accord is making a sound like a phone on vibrate every few minutes as it sits parked in our driveway. Not sure if this is pertinent but the driveway is sloped so the rear is higher than the front. I've search everywhere to try to locate the sound (thinking it was a cell phone left in the car) but it seems to be coming from under the middle to rear of the car. Could it be the gas tank pump going spastic?
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I just had my right drive axle replaced on my 1992 accord today at a mechanic chain store. I have notice fluid leaking/dripping from where the axle and transmission meet. What is occurring? Could it be they didn't replaced any seals or the axle is a wrong fit. Its a manual transmission by the way.
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Haven't noticed it before, but now I pay attention to my steering wheel - when the car is stopped on Drive mode I can feel a slight vibration on the steering. Shifting to P mode eliminates is. Is it ok? Do Your steering wheels vibrate when You stop at the traffic lights?
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Two weeks ago I had to brake suddenly while driving in town and my A/C immediately stopped cooling although the fan continued to work. I drove it home and the next morning when I started my car the A/C worked fine. It was working fine until yesterday when I was driving and again had to brake suddenly to pull over after taking a wrong turn. The A/C immediately went out again. Only this time the A/C didn't ever start working correctly again.
2003 Honda Accord EX - A/C problem related to hard and sudden braking?
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I have owned this car for about 6 months now and cannot get to the bottom of this sound/action. I have taken it to multiple shops, including the dealer where I bought it from, a Honda dealership, and two other shops (Firestone Complete Auto Care, and a local shop which is goodyear backed.) Here is the deal:
When I accelerate past 50 mph and up to 75 miles per hour, and also when I cruise at any speed between those numbers, my car has a very distinct vibration in both the seat and steering wheel. It also has a sound that matches the intensity and magnitude of the vibration itself. The sound and vibration intensifies and decreases with changes in speed, the sound changes pitch when turning the wheel from one side to another, and the vibration gets worse as I drive up or down hills. This sound also gets louder if I apply the brakes suddenly, but also decreases with the speed of the car.
Things I have had checked:
Ball bearingsRims (One rim was actually bent (steel rims), and now is replaced.)Alignment (This was actually done at least 4 times since I've had the vehicle)Replaced tires (to rule out tire noise, and also the tires were going bad from what I believe is this problem)
I have had this car test driven to try to get opinions and either the shop denies that they hear anything, or say they do not know what the sound could be. It sounds like it is coming from the front right. I have been told by the dealership from where this car came that the sound is "road noise" and should be ignored. I disagree, because if it is "road noise" then it should go away when driving on different surfaces. When I have had my alignment checked, Firestone found that my camber on my front right and left rear were off to the right, but were still within specifications. They also said there was nothing they could do, and suggested if I wanted it fixed, I should take it to a body shop.
Included are a scan of the alignment results from Firestone, and a sound clip of the sound that is captured on my phone. Also, the sound can be heard throughout the recording, but is especially clear at around the 42 second mark.
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I have a 98 Honda Accord 4 cylinder with 110k miles on it. It used to be very quite and drives smoothly. I recently had my timing belt and water pump replaced. Right after i got my car back from my mechanic, the driving felt differently. Two main problems, first, every time I stop at red lights or traffic, the car vibrates and you can feel it from the steering wheel. Second, when I start to accelerate and when engine is over 2100 rpm, the engine becomes much louder than before, I feel like I am driving a race car. Other than these two problems, the can seems to drive fine. I took it back and they told me this is normal and takes time to settle down. Is this normal after the time belt change or what might have gone wrong?
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I have a 2004 Honda Accord EX (4 cyl) with 102k miles. I bought it brand new and kept it completely in shape with regular service. For the past few months I start getting front end vibration at braking, mostly when slowing from high speeds and without any repair this vibration has now became common at all speed.... my diagnosis - I need to replace to turn disk/rotors....
While I have not remedy the rotor issue yet, I started getting this new vibration at 60 to 80 mph.... Below and above this range of speed i have no vibrations - the car will drive fine. This type of vibration in my experience for front wheel drives is mostly due to balancing or bad tires. so i took the easy way ..... and as i already needed tires well i dished out the dough and replaced all four with Michelin Primacy hoping that it will resolve the speed related vibration.... Well it did not?
I continue to drive as-is without addressing the real problem - coz I'm not sure what is causing the vibration.... now new additional vibration started on acceleration; any time I hit the gas pedal (normal acceleration or kick-down) I get vibration very similar to when a stick shift's gearbox required replacement/repair of the worn out pressure plate's (fingers/springs gets bent or weak) or the thrust bearing needs replacements/repair/grease packing. I'm from the old school stickshift transmission, my knowledge in automatic is very little - I have repaired Acura's automatic transmission before but I don't think repairing once will make me an expert in automatic.
So to summarize my issues or current state:
Issue# 1 front end vibration on braking
Issue# 2 front end vibration 60 to 80 mph speed only
Issue# 3 front end vibration on acceleration at all speed
The list above is in sequential order as I have experienced.
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I took my 2003 Honda Accord that has 200,000 mostly highway miles to my machanic because I heard a thumping sound in the wheel (so I thought) He told me it was a broken engine mount (front) and replaced it. When I picked up my car it vibrated all over the place. I was scared to drive it. The steering wheel was bounding around. Anyway I took it back right away and was told that since they replace the front engine mount the others needed to be replaced as well and that was the cause of the vibration. They replaced the other two engine mounts and the car is vibrating even more. So the decided it was the transmission mounts. So...they replaced the transmission mounts and still my car is vibrating all over the place.
Now the mechanic says it's the engine and said that it was at least a 5 hour job to do but could not give me any promises that that was going to fix my car. So, I took it to the honda dealer to have their tech look into it. The tech thought the vibration was caused by a broken air tube, replaced it (at no cost) but the car still vibrating..
Honda checked the replaced engine and transmission mounts, said they were okay but noticed that the original bolt on the front mount was replaced by a oversized bolt and they think that is the problem since the vibration did not occur until the mechanic replaced the front motor mount. Honda suggested I take the car back to the mechanic since it would cost me much money for them to fix it. I had Honda explain the issue to the mechanic about the bolt and they seem to disagree. I'm still waiting to hear from the mechanic as to when to bring my car back so that they can finally fix it. i think the made more of a problem in the first place.
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