Honda - Accord :: 2001 - Speedometer Jumping - CEL Came On?
Nov 5, 2011
Recently I had a battery replacement and a wheel barring replaced. Once I picked up my car the speedometer started jumping. I took it back into the Sears auto place that did the work. They checked it out and then told me this was an electrical thing and that they weren't at fault. After about another day the 'check engine light' came on.
I recently moved so looked up an actual garage in TN that had good reviews and took the car in. They hooked it up to a computer and told me the speed sensor chip was bad. Since the car is a manual they said that it was ok to drive it but they wouldn't recommend that for too long while I saved money. I have seen lots of posts online about doing this yourself. I by NO means am a car person but I have seen that you can buy the speed sensor part pretty cheap online.
My questions are: Is the garage charging me an arm and a leg? Would it be a recommendation to buy the part online and then take it in to be fixed? And if so how do I know which ones are ok for my 2001 Honda accord?
View 3 Replies
Advertisement
My car is a 2001 honda accord v6. It sat for 3 winter months. When I go to turn it on in the morning, the car will rev while idling. Jumping between 1000 and 3000 rpms. Why this might be happening?
View 3 Replies
How difficult is changing the whole speedometer cluster on a 94 honda accord? Mine has been messed up since i got the car. It stays on 20mph when I turn on the car.
View 6 Replies
I have a 1994 Honda Accord DX 5 speed. As it was turning to 208,000 the odometer froze up. This was in mid April. The speedometer still works but the 2 mileage readings quit. About a week later it began to work for 9 miles, then froze up again. I called 3 mechanics. They said it was the speedometer cluster & that he would need to put a search out for the part because it was a rare part for my car. That was 2 weeks ago. Last week my odometer began working as though nothing happened and has been fine. If and when I ever hear back about the part what should I do? Go ahead and get it fixed or just say "If it ain't broke don't fix it?"
View 2 Replies
I have a 95 Honda Accord V6, the D4 light is flashing and the speedometer needle does not work. When in stop and go traffic, the needle bounces around and makes the car stall and downshift and rev up. I replaced the speed sensor with no change.
View 6 Replies
I have 1999 Honda Accord LX, 185000 mile, with 4 cylinders. Starts one month ago, the speedometer drop to zero randomly and immediately come back to normal on highway several times. Recently, car stops twice on street. Dashboard panel had no power. It seems electricity shuts off. I turn the key to OFF and turn the key to ON immediately then the car starts OK. The ignition switch was changed since there was a recall for it. What is wrong with my car?
View 3 Replies
While driving on the highway, the cruise control shuts off and the speedometer stops working. Check engine light comes on. Car continues to run fine.
Five days later, I start the car and the following do not work: clock, intermittent wipers, neutral safety switch, tachometer, temperature gauge, gear indicator lights, rear defrost, windows, and I believe that is all. Car runs and drives fine. Other electrical items working. I check all fuses and only find one burned out - (#1, inside, labeled 'back up lights' meter lights) I replace the fuse and it blows when I start the car again. Take the car to AutoZone and they put it on their computer and it shows one code - P0501 - CVT speed sensor.
Two days later, the car will not start. Turns over strong, but will not start. I have checked the grounds on the transmission and body and they appear to be fine. Battery cables, also.
View 4 Replies
The speedometer on my car works intermittently. When I accelerate and release I hear a loud clicking noise and my speedometer and rpm stop working. It will jump from different speeds dropping to zero. Is my speedometer on its way out or could it be something else?
View 2 Replies
I have a 1991 Toyota Celica ST184 5SFE that has only just started to have a few issues with the Speedometer.
Issue: When driving the Speedometer may jump up and down and when taking foot off the gas it will instantly drop. Happens now and then it may work again.
I have taken the car to the mechanics and they have confirmed that the car uses a Sensor for the Speedometer.
I took my car to an Auto Electrical Mechanic and he did a few tests on the car using a tool that showed the speed of the Sensor when Driving and he has confirmed that the Sensor is working correctly as he can see the speed while driving.
He mentioned that there is likely to be an issue within the Dash and possibly a loose cable or a bad resistor.
How to troubleshoot this on the Dash and how to remove it correctly without damaging anything.
View 3 Replies
So I'm having some fun issues with my S10 Blazer right now.
1992 S10 Blazer 4x4 4.3L TBI, 4-speed auto (not electronic)
ABS Codes- 41, 42, 46, 51, 52, 65, 67, 68
The speedometer is jumping around sporadically.
Gas mileage has dropped astoundingly. Tank has gotten me 80 miles!!!! Poorest MPG ever!!
Also, may be related, the tranny has shifted properly for awhile. Slips from 4th to 3rd when letting off the gas at highway speed, and won't detente shift 4th to 3rd even with the gas completely floored. I had the tranny rebuilt in November and had the detente cable replaced a couple of weeks ago. I'm going to make sure it was adjusted correctly today by using the shop manual method: shift the cable back and ratchet forward with throttle or gas pedal.
As far as the ABS and speedometer go, I'm going to test what I can with the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) and the DRAC module today. With my WinALDL scan tool, I found it is definitely not a speedometer issue because the speed coming from the computer is fluctuating as well.
There is a test in the shop manual to do, but are there any other tests for the VSS or DRAC module? Reason here is because I replaced the VSS after the tranny rebuild in November. So either the DRAC module is acting up or something in the transfer case is screwed.
View 3 Replies
I have a 2001 Honda Accord (LX SEDAN 4 DOOR, 4 CYL). Am a bit paranoid after reading online about all the transmission problems people have with this car. The other day when I was starting up from the stop light it had a moment where I was stepping on the gas and it felt like I was in neutral-- not going anywhere. This is the only time it happened and it was only for a few seconds.
Wondering if you think this is the sign of an impending transmission failure or whether it just needs some kind of maintenance?
View 5 Replies
So over the past year, I've noticed an increased 'hum' while driving in my 2001 Honda Accord Sedan. Originally this only occurred while going 80 on the Interstate. I just passed it off as going over the speed limit and tires then. Over the past few months however, I've noticed it occurring at speeds as low as 30-40mph. It's not deafening, but is a solid 'mmmmm' coming from what sounds like the rear left tire. When I make a right-turning curve the sound lessens or vanishes during that curve entirely, but a left-turning curve makes no change to the sound. As I slow to below 30mph, the sound disappears.
The rear tires are due for replacing soon, but I've driven on MUCH barer tires in college with no recollection of this sort of sound (in other cars). The wheel appears to be solid with no wobble as well.
View 3 Replies
So I've been experiencing some shaking in my automatic 2001 Honda Accord EX Coupe 3.0L V6. The shaking starts at about 40mph and can last up to about 55-60 mph when it starts to fade away or become unnoticeable. The shaking is a lot more noticeable when your on an incline and accelerating. The shaking feels as though it rocks side-to-side but my steering wheel doesn't shake or pull. I've gotten my car tires/wheels balanced, replaced the wheels/rims, go new tires, had everything balanced again, and got an alignment done.
Since I used to think that the shaking was more prevalent in the back end of the car, I replaced the sway bar link stabilizers as directed by a friend. Needless to say, none of those things stopped the shaking. My first set of wheels/rims had one bent rim, so it shook because of that and couldn't really distinguish that there was something else beyond the bent wheel that could cause the shaking. So that's why I had to replace those wheels and tires. My new wheels required hub rings so discount tire put those on when installing them.
I've had my car lowered using lowering springs, which dropped the car about 1.8-2 inches. I had that done over a year ago and really don't think that's what would have caused the shaking. I say that because I've had those springs for a pretty long time and I wasn't experiencing any shaking after installing them. I know that my car doesn't have a stock camber kit that allows for lowering the car. But I'm not worried about the camber even though it does wear out the inside of the tire faster than the outside. I've had my exhaust done as well.
It goes from the catalytic converter to the back (cat-back) with a 2.5 inch piping. There's no leaks or anything and it's not loose either. And those are pretty much the only things I've done to upgrade my car. Of course I get regular oil changes and I recently did a transmission flush (drain and fill). I've been reading up on what could cause the shaking, through online threads, and all I can see that might be the cause is the CV axles? They've had the same issues that I'm having, replaced the axles, and that fixed their shaking.
View 2 Replies
So I noticed the smell of burning coolant a day after I got an oil change. My car wasn't overheating and my thermostat didn't jump at all. I open the hood and there's a little bit of smoke. I take it to a mechanic and they do a pressure check. They see dried coolant under the upper hose connecting the engine to the radiator. They tell me its the flange connecting that hose to the engine that's leaking low levels of coolant and it will cost 150 to fix.(not a gasket) I say go ahead. They're in the process of fixing it today and they call me saying "We got the part, and we're going to fix it but we think the thermostat isn't fully opening or closing which is causing the problem and it will be another 150 to fix". Now I looked up this mechanic and they have 12 1 star reviews on Yelp of people saying they were overpriced and the mechanics often piled on things once they got on.
My issue is essentially the mechanic said "This problem could happen again if you don't replace the thermostat" but he also said they're not sure if its a bad thermostat. Couldn't they check the thermostat easily??? Like I said I said besides the leak in the flange I haven't had any issues. The car warms up fine and the temperature NEVER spikes (I had a different car overheat and blow a gasket two years ago cause I didn't notice the temp gauge for 2 miles and I LEARNED MY LESSON) I always keep a careful eye on the gauge.
My question is isn't there an easy way to check the thermostat? The mechanic keeps pressuring me to fix it. Just to be safe I am just having them fix the flange and taking it to a mechanic I trust. (I couldn't take it to him before cause he's on the other side of town and I was paranoid my car wouldn't make it)
View 16 Replies
I have a 2001 Honda Accord V6. The check engine light is on and occasionally the TCS light comes on for a few mins. then goes off. I've been to Autozone and used the diagnostic meter, it indicates a clogged or malfunctioning EGR Valve. I replaced the EGR Valve and reset the Check Engine light. The check engine light came back on. Is there some kind on engine cleaner I can use to clean out the the EGR Valve port?
View 1 Replies
MY 2001, 6 cylinder, HONDA ACCORD (200,000K miles) has for a couple of years randomly stalled at traffic signals. It has always been for just a few seconds, the engine will turn over, all dashboard lights are on but it has taken up to about 30 seconds to finally fire. I didn't worry about it too much until last week when this happened only this time it wouldn't start. BIGGER problem was that I couldn't get the gear shift lever to shift from "Park" to "Neutral", which meant the car was stuck sitting in the middle of the road and several burly men couldn't budge it out of the way of traffic. After about 20 minutes, the car started and drove away like a dream. Had mechanic check it out - ran perfectly. Fast forward three days, I drive 3.5 hours seamlessly stop a couple of times with the car sitting a max of 10 minutes - no problem - stop third time with engine off, in park for only about a minute and the same situation, dash lights on, stuck in park, engine turns over, won't start. Had lunch, an hour or so later it starts. Drive about five miles & turn up a steep grade on paved, residential road at about 25mph and the engine shuts off without any coughing, stuttering - just shuts off and I coast to the curb. Starts up in just a few seconds and has been running beautifully since, driving me and the mechanic nuts.
View 7 Replies
My son wrecked his 01 Honda, front drivers side front. After replacing his wheel and headlight, his front wheels will turn left but won't turn right all the way.
View 7 Replies
2001 Honda Accord EX 2.3L 4cyl. check engine light is flashing off and on with a PO1399 code
View 2 Replies
I have an older 2001 Honda accord I4 about 160k miles on it. I recently noticed that there's a rattling sound when the car in in idle (800RPM) but it disappear when I rev it up to higher RPM or while driving. The noise can't be heard inside the cabin and can only heard outside. The noise also only appears when it is warmed (engine running for about 3 - 5 minutes after cold start). I read from other board about a loose or worn out heat shield so I went under the car and try to look for a loose of broken parts but I cant find any. I removed the cat heat shield but the problem still exist. I don't know what else to check. Car seems run normal, I don't notice any change in performance and no check engine or what so ever. I just wan't to make sure it is not something on the engine, transmission, or something that will snowball to a bigger issues. I don't know how long its been rattling but I just noticed it the other day.
View 11 Replies
I just took my 2001 Honda Accord in for an oil change and tire rotation yesterday. When I left the shop, I noticed a wobbly noise coming from the front when I was driving on the highway (40 MPH+). There is no vibration in the steering wheel, but the sound is pretty noticeable. It wasn't there when I got to the shop. I have my tires rotated every 3,000-5,000 miles. Is this simply from uneven tire wear?
View 12 Replies
My friend has a question about his 2001 Honda 2 dr. Accord, V6. After he first starts the car and backs straight or turns, there is a bad sound near the passenger front side, maybe in near the wheel. Once the car has been started, say, and he goes forward and then backs up there is no noise. But the first time out of the parked position, it is very noticeable. He said he has noticed it almost a year. Is the transaxle a problem? Is it dangerous.. only on the first startup and back up and it ends shortly, but sounds bad. It is not with brake application either, so not a brake pad I don't think and he has those checked and replaced, so don't know what to think.
View 2 Replies
