Honda - Accord :: 2001 - Rattling Noise While Idling?
Mar 27, 2013
I have an older 2001 Honda accord I4 about 160k miles on it. I recently noticed that there's a rattling sound when the car in in idle (800RPM) but it disappear when I rev it up to higher RPM or while driving. The noise can't be heard inside the cabin and can only heard outside. The noise also only appears when it is warmed (engine running for about 3 - 5 minutes after cold start). I read from other board about a loose or worn out heat shield so I went under the car and try to look for a loose of broken parts but I cant find any. I removed the cat heat shield but the problem still exist. I don't know what else to check. Car seems run normal, I don't notice any change in performance and no check engine or what so ever. I just wan't to make sure it is not something on the engine, transmission, or something that will snowball to a bigger issues. I don't know how long its been rattling but I just noticed it the other day.
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Was driving 97 honda Accord 4 cylinder today when it made a loud rattling noise, took it in to advanced auto parts to see if they could give me a hint to what was wrong, as I was showing the employee the noise got progressively worse and he told me the connecting rod was loose and I could make it home if I went under 35 he mentioned something about tightening two bolts but having to drop the oil pan to get to it, as I was driving home the noise eventually turned into a clunk and the car died, when I try to start it up you can hear the engine turn but there is nothing after that, don't know much about cars but what is the process I need to go through to replace this connecting rod myself and how to get the car to start again.
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I just took my 2001 Honda Accord in for an oil change and tire rotation yesterday. When I left the shop, I noticed a wobbly noise coming from the front when I was driving on the highway (40 MPH+). There is no vibration in the steering wheel, but the sound is pretty noticeable. It wasn't there when I got to the shop. I have my tires rotated every 3,000-5,000 miles. Is this simply from uneven tire wear?
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When it is cold outside and I want to turn my heat on in my car, it takes a loooong while for heat to be produced. I have to have the car moving at a high rate of speed before any heat is made. Even when it is turned all the way to the hottest setting it just spits out cold air. Here is the real problem. If I have the temperature on the heat and the car is idle, the temperature gauge on the instrument panel starts to move around to the RED side(meaning the engine is hot, right?)
As long as the car is moving the gauge will stay in the BLUE(engine is cool, right?) As soon as I stop the car at a red light or sit in traffic(which is usually the case) sure enough the little temperature needle begins to make its way to the RED side. As soon as I move again, it normals again. I have taken this to several mechanics and they have said that they do not know what is wrong and they think that it may just be a faulty temp gauge(this does not seem right) I do not really know if the car is in fact overheating when the gauge starts its travels or if the car is fine and I just have something that is faulty.
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We have a newly acquired Honda wagon, 16 valve, PGM FI, auto trans, that revs while idling. It sometimes does it when cold buy also hot. It increases it's idle to 1500 and drops revs to 1100 about every 6 seconds. Normal idle seems high at 110.
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Last week I got back from a two week trip and came to turn on my car (95k miles) and I quickly noted a flat. Put the car in park to check it, and all of the sudden the engine is revving--1500rpm up to about 3500rpm and back down, over and over again. Put on my spare and headed to the shop. The whole way there, about four miles or so one-way, the car could hit 40mph without me on the gas. I turned the car on/off about five times, still having the same issue. In total, I drove about 25 miles with this issue, then, all of the sudden it seemed to be solved.
My mechanic seemed troubled by it when he took a look. No one could diagnose the issue, just had the air leak that caused the flat on a Saturday afternoon fixed, but I haven't taken it back to them because the issue isn't happening anymore.
This comes on the heels of taking it in and having the fuel relay fixed because of the well-documented issue with this car stalling on start with warm temperatures. That fix was supposed to take care of things, but the issue still persisted following the fix.
2000 Honda Accord EX V6 Coupe....
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I've had my 2000 Honda Accord V6 for about 3 years now and have had an idling issue pretty much since I purchased it. After driving for at least 50+ miles, and if its hot out it can easily have this issue as well, and leaving the car be for around 15 to 30 minutes, on start up the car drops RPMs immediately and dies. Multiple tries and it will do the exact same thing. Recently I found out a trick to make it work correctly which is revving the engine to 2000RPM for about 3-4 minutes, slowly dropping it down to 1500 RMP for around the same 3-4 minutes and finally down to 1000 RPM for an additional 3-4 minutes and letting off the gas. Usually after doing this the engine idles fine, car drives great. However, it must be noted that on Summer days with temperatures in the 85+ range, if I'm climbing (going up a hill for a long distance) the car might bog down on me, will not go above 50MPH and I have to pull off the side of the road for 45+ minutes before the car will run correctly again. This has happened about 3 or 4 times in the 3 years I've owned the car.
I would rather not have to rev the engine in hopes this fixes the issue each time so I'm wondering what could be the cause in the first place? I've replaced so many things including spark plugs, ignition coils, battery, idle air control valve, gasket, fuel pump, fuel pump relay and on. I gas the car up with Chevron gasoline, I've dumped in I don't know how many different fuel injector cleaners and have also tried Heet as well as Sea Foam cleaner. I've also had the car checked for vacuum leaks.
I've asked multiple mechanics if this could possibly be a vapor lock issue, but they all turn that idea down. They tell me that since the car is fuel injected this can't be the issue..but, I don't know, could it be the issue?
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"my Honda accord 98, is stick shift and recently it has been rattleting a bit when I switch to speed one. if I don't push the clutch it shakes and wants to almost turn off."
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I have a 2010 Honda Accord that is having issues with metal rattling when there is cold weather. I believe the rattling is coming from the heat plates where the exhaust pipe starts. However, I have taken it to the Honda Dealership in San Antonio. They cannot find where the noise is coming from the car. The issue has been occurring for the last 2 years. On top of that, my oil light is coming on. I am not sure if the oil light and the heavy metal rattling are linked (properly not). I would like to get this fixed.
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Recently I started hearing a rattling/grinding metallic sound coming off the right rear while driving slowly. This sound is not reproduced when braking.At first it started while doing sharp right turns only, now its ever present while driving. I showed it to a mechanic he says rotors needs to be replaced. Is he right? 2003 Honda Accord V6....
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I have a 2001 Saturn SL2 1.9 liter DOHC. I am getting a metallic rattling sound from under the car. The sound happens only at certain RPM idling speeds; what could this be?
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My '93 Honda Accord has developed a problem with starting and holding its idle. After the car has sat overnight or for several hours, it may be hard to start. (Sometimes it starts right away!)
It can take several minutes to start idling well or it may be fine in seconds. It's all very inconsistent.
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I have a 2001 Honda Accord (LX SEDAN 4 DOOR, 4 CYL). Am a bit paranoid after reading online about all the transmission problems people have with this car. The other day when I was starting up from the stop light it had a moment where I was stepping on the gas and it felt like I was in neutral-- not going anywhere. This is the only time it happened and it was only for a few seconds.
Wondering if you think this is the sign of an impending transmission failure or whether it just needs some kind of maintenance?
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So over the past year, I've noticed an increased 'hum' while driving in my 2001 Honda Accord Sedan. Originally this only occurred while going 80 on the Interstate. I just passed it off as going over the speed limit and tires then. Over the past few months however, I've noticed it occurring at speeds as low as 30-40mph. It's not deafening, but is a solid 'mmmmm' coming from what sounds like the rear left tire. When I make a right-turning curve the sound lessens or vanishes during that curve entirely, but a left-turning curve makes no change to the sound. As I slow to below 30mph, the sound disappears.
The rear tires are due for replacing soon, but I've driven on MUCH barer tires in college with no recollection of this sort of sound (in other cars). The wheel appears to be solid with no wobble as well.
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So I've been experiencing some shaking in my automatic 2001 Honda Accord EX Coupe 3.0L V6. The shaking starts at about 40mph and can last up to about 55-60 mph when it starts to fade away or become unnoticeable. The shaking is a lot more noticeable when your on an incline and accelerating. The shaking feels as though it rocks side-to-side but my steering wheel doesn't shake or pull. I've gotten my car tires/wheels balanced, replaced the wheels/rims, go new tires, had everything balanced again, and got an alignment done.
Since I used to think that the shaking was more prevalent in the back end of the car, I replaced the sway bar link stabilizers as directed by a friend. Needless to say, none of those things stopped the shaking. My first set of wheels/rims had one bent rim, so it shook because of that and couldn't really distinguish that there was something else beyond the bent wheel that could cause the shaking. So that's why I had to replace those wheels and tires. My new wheels required hub rings so discount tire put those on when installing them.
I've had my car lowered using lowering springs, which dropped the car about 1.8-2 inches. I had that done over a year ago and really don't think that's what would have caused the shaking. I say that because I've had those springs for a pretty long time and I wasn't experiencing any shaking after installing them. I know that my car doesn't have a stock camber kit that allows for lowering the car. But I'm not worried about the camber even though it does wear out the inside of the tire faster than the outside. I've had my exhaust done as well.
It goes from the catalytic converter to the back (cat-back) with a 2.5 inch piping. There's no leaks or anything and it's not loose either. And those are pretty much the only things I've done to upgrade my car. Of course I get regular oil changes and I recently did a transmission flush (drain and fill). I've been reading up on what could cause the shaking, through online threads, and all I can see that might be the cause is the CV axles? They've had the same issues that I'm having, replaced the axles, and that fixed their shaking.
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Recently I had a battery replacement and a wheel barring replaced. Once I picked up my car the speedometer started jumping. I took it back into the Sears auto place that did the work. They checked it out and then told me this was an electrical thing and that they weren't at fault. After about another day the 'check engine light' came on.
I recently moved so looked up an actual garage in TN that had good reviews and took the car in. They hooked it up to a computer and told me the speed sensor chip was bad. Since the car is a manual they said that it was ok to drive it but they wouldn't recommend that for too long while I saved money. I have seen lots of posts online about doing this yourself. I by NO means am a car person but I have seen that you can buy the speed sensor part pretty cheap online.
My questions are: Is the garage charging me an arm and a leg? Would it be a recommendation to buy the part online and then take it in to be fixed? And if so how do I know which ones are ok for my 2001 Honda accord?
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So I noticed the smell of burning coolant a day after I got an oil change. My car wasn't overheating and my thermostat didn't jump at all. I open the hood and there's a little bit of smoke. I take it to a mechanic and they do a pressure check. They see dried coolant under the upper hose connecting the engine to the radiator. They tell me its the flange connecting that hose to the engine that's leaking low levels of coolant and it will cost 150 to fix.(not a gasket) I say go ahead. They're in the process of fixing it today and they call me saying "We got the part, and we're going to fix it but we think the thermostat isn't fully opening or closing which is causing the problem and it will be another 150 to fix". Now I looked up this mechanic and they have 12 1 star reviews on Yelp of people saying they were overpriced and the mechanics often piled on things once they got on.
My issue is essentially the mechanic said "This problem could happen again if you don't replace the thermostat" but he also said they're not sure if its a bad thermostat. Couldn't they check the thermostat easily??? Like I said I said besides the leak in the flange I haven't had any issues. The car warms up fine and the temperature NEVER spikes (I had a different car overheat and blow a gasket two years ago cause I didn't notice the temp gauge for 2 miles and I LEARNED MY LESSON) I always keep a careful eye on the gauge.
My question is isn't there an easy way to check the thermostat? The mechanic keeps pressuring me to fix it. Just to be safe I am just having them fix the flange and taking it to a mechanic I trust. (I couldn't take it to him before cause he's on the other side of town and I was paranoid my car wouldn't make it)
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I have a 2001 Honda Accord V6. The check engine light is on and occasionally the TCS light comes on for a few mins. then goes off. I've been to Autozone and used the diagnostic meter, it indicates a clogged or malfunctioning EGR Valve. I replaced the EGR Valve and reset the Check Engine light. The check engine light came back on. Is there some kind on engine cleaner I can use to clean out the the EGR Valve port?
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MY 2001, 6 cylinder, HONDA ACCORD (200,000K miles) has for a couple of years randomly stalled at traffic signals. It has always been for just a few seconds, the engine will turn over, all dashboard lights are on but it has taken up to about 30 seconds to finally fire. I didn't worry about it too much until last week when this happened only this time it wouldn't start. BIGGER problem was that I couldn't get the gear shift lever to shift from "Park" to "Neutral", which meant the car was stuck sitting in the middle of the road and several burly men couldn't budge it out of the way of traffic. After about 20 minutes, the car started and drove away like a dream. Had mechanic check it out - ran perfectly. Fast forward three days, I drive 3.5 hours seamlessly stop a couple of times with the car sitting a max of 10 minutes - no problem - stop third time with engine off, in park for only about a minute and the same situation, dash lights on, stuck in park, engine turns over, won't start. Had lunch, an hour or so later it starts. Drive about five miles & turn up a steep grade on paved, residential road at about 25mph and the engine shuts off without any coughing, stuttering - just shuts off and I coast to the curb. Starts up in just a few seconds and has been running beautifully since, driving me and the mechanic nuts.
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My son wrecked his 01 Honda, front drivers side front. After replacing his wheel and headlight, his front wheels will turn left but won't turn right all the way.
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2001 Honda Accord EX 2.3L 4cyl. check engine light is flashing off and on with a PO1399 code
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