Honda - Accord :: 2000 - Runs Roughly In Hot Weather?
Sep 9, 2012
I have a 2000 Honda Accord LX V6 auto with about 125k on it.It seems to me that when I'm going downhill for example - so I am not giving it gas - it feels like its running rough - sort of. It kind of feels like the brakes are being applied then released, applied then released.Now, once summer arrived and I had to start using the AC all the time, after the car was warmed up and having run for 20+ minutes, it would REALLY start running rough. I watch the tachometer and it bounces up and down. When I turn off the car for awhile like to go into the grocery store, when I come out and try to start it, it wont. It just cranks but wont catch. If I do manage to get it to catch, it stalls. I have managed to get it to catch-apply the gas and pop it in to drive and make it home, but something is obviously very wrong and I don't want to get stuck somewhere. I have a code reader and the car has not produced any codes.
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My 2001 Honda Accord LX automatic transmission with 103,000 miles has been shifting roughly for about a year. The car is in excellent shape otherwise. I've changed the oil & filter regularly @ 3,000 miles, just had the rotors turned. Last year, based on what the manuel says to do, I had the transmission fluid drained and replaced. It seemed better for about 6 months. The rough shifting seems to happen most when going from 2nd to 1st and vice versa. Last week when I accelerated to take off @ a traffic light it made a huge clunking sound & it was like I went over a speed bump as I took off. That sent me to a transmission shop!
Through a test drive & putting on the scanner, shop #1 says it has a major transmission malfunction & said need to take apart, rebuild & put back together. Shop #2 does the same testing & says basically the same thing & all they can tell me to take it apart & put it back together, with the unknown being what is wrong & what will be the total cost! Shop #3, same testing, but they went a step further and dropped the transmission pan & found the forward clutches in there. They recommended rebuilding transmission, replacing forward clutches which includes torque converter, pump, gasket seals, etc.
My specific questions are:
1) What is the function of the forward clutches?
2) Does the diagnosis & remedy sound correct
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Toyota celica 2000 GT automatic, has a problem on cold start, especially when the temperature is below 32 degree Fahrenheit. The engine starts and runs roughly, but most electrical devices do not work, the dashboard and car windows are power off and I can't change the gear so it can not move. Only after warming up for about 10 minutes then the dashboard will work, then everything is fine till the next morning. I sent it to a small garage but they found nothing.
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We have two 2000 Echos with 125,000 and 130,000 miles on them. We took my husband's Echo into the shop because it died when idling, and then it started running rough and stumbling. Also needed an alignment. They fixed it by replacing the idle sensor, the mass air flow sensor, and worked on the valve train. They said they couldn't do the alignment because the control arms needed to be replaced due to the bushings. A week before his car went into the shop, my car started running rough and stumbling. So I took it in when I picked his car up. Same diagnosis except for the idle. Is it reasonable for BOTH to need all this work at the same approx. mileage?
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My 94 Honda Accord's distributor runs with the ignition switch off. Car will not start. Does this with master relay and 50 amp ignition fuse removed.
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My daughter owns a 1992 Honda Accord wagon, she cannot get it to start on colder days. Sometimes she goes out and runs a hair dryer over the engine, it works, but it is getting worse. Her husband says that is ridiculous to do.
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I have a 2003 Honda Accord LX with 96K miles on it. As the weather has gotten colder, my car radio is turning itself on. I walked out last week to a frigid 19 degrees here in KY to the blaring sound of my radio on in the car. There was no one in the car and no key in the ignition, rather the key was in my hand. This has continued to be a problem and occurs sporadically during the day. I have tried turning the radio on/off, keeping the volume down, but regardless, even the clock face panel turns itself on.
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I have a 2010 Honda Accord that is having issues with metal rattling when there is cold weather. I believe the rattling is coming from the heat plates where the exhaust pipe starts. However, I have taken it to the Honda Dealership in San Antonio. They cannot find where the noise is coming from the car. The issue has been occurring for the last 2 years. On top of that, my oil light is coming on. I am not sure if the oil light and the heavy metal rattling are linked (properly not). I would like to get this fixed.
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I have a 1998 Honda Accord 4 cylinder with roughly 150k miles. When the weather is cold outside the steering wheel will shake until the car warms up. I have taken the car into the shop and they checked the engine mounts, tie rods, etc and they told me that the car is fine. The tires are not unbalanced nor are they packed with dirt or debris. The vibration only occurs when the car is cold and it goes away once the car warms up. Also, the vibration will stop when I simply place a small amount of pressure on the steering wheel with my hand or knee. The vibration does not occur when I am driving at low or high speeds and it usually only occurs when I am stopped at stop signs or lights.
I have done the regular maintenance on the vehicle and I have replaced the timing belt, spark plugs/ wires, belt(s), etc, if that make a difference.
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My 2005 Accord V-6 makes a howling (actually a loud whine) when started in very cold weather (e.g., below 25 degrees). The sound goes a way after a few miles driving. It appears to come from a small "pump" looking thing at the top and on the left (facing the car) of the engine, which is attached to a pulley. My mechanic - although he did not actually hear it - says it's nothing to worry about; it's just the cold.
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I've saw several complaints about 2008 Honda Accord Popping at low braking speeds and start from stop only in hot weather. I've never saw a solution.
This is the other persons complaint: My Honda has a pop or clunk when braking at low speeds( below 5mph) just before coming to a stop. It will pop as I start forward again (below 5mph). It only occurs when the outside temperature is above 90-95 degrees and after driving for 10-15 minutes.
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When I was driving my car the engine was running fine, but all of a sudden there would be no power to the wheels as I was driving. I tried shifting the car down into lower gears, but the car still was just coming to a stop even though I was revving the engine. I was able to limp home because I could turn the car off for about 30 seconds, and when I would start it back up the engine and transmission would work fine together for a few blocks and then I would have the same problem. I did check my transmission fluid, which was low (at the lower dot when hot). Could this problem be fixed by simply changing and filling the transmission fluid? Or do you think it is something else? My car is an automatic with about 114,000 miles. At about 98,000 miles I had a full tune-up and my timing belt was replaced.
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I have a problem about which the mechanics I have asked are baffled: In cool, cloudy or sunny weather, my brakes and break-pedal pressure are fine (the mechanics have said I have good fluid, brakes, etc.--they can find nothing wrong--and, of course, it never has a problem when they test-drive my car). However, when the weather warms up and it's a bright, sunny day, my brake pedal loses pressure and slowly sinks to the floor--a dangerous thing at intersections. There's slight pressure if I pump the pedal constantly while at a light; but, without pumping, the pedal immediately sinks to the floor.
This is a real problem, because this problem always occurs right when mechanics are not near or not open for business--and none I've talked to have ever heard of such a problem. The bright, hot sun's affect seems to be key, because if it's 80 degrees outside and cloudy, I don't have the issue--but, then again, I don't usually run the air conditioner if it's cloudy. As such, I'm not positive; but, this may be tied to when I turn on the air conditioner--as though the two share the same vacuum system.
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Title pretty much says it. When its COLD it surges while idling upon start up. It goes away once you start driving it and the engine warms up. Other than that it runs great. Its got about 235 K with a replacement motor that has about 100k. I've had it about a year. Great vehicle. Its a standard.
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Reconditioned engine 5,000 miles ago. Last maintenance check at dealer found nothing wrong. 2000 Honda CRV.
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I have a 2002 VW Passat that I cannot communicate with the ECU. I have the latest version of the Vagcom software downloaded. It has the factory radio installed and still will not communicate. The car runs, but runs rough. Anything else to check?
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I recently purchased a 1996 Ford Ranger with the 4 cyl. engine. The first 10 days I owned it it ran just fine. I then took a an hour drive to another city. After the first few stops there, as the temperature outside reached about 90, It started to sputter and idle very badly. After I got rolling it would would run fine. I decided to try to make it home. It ran fine at freeway speeds of about 70 mph. I had to stop once; it stalled out and would not start again. After waiting about ten minutes I tried again. It was still running rough, but I was able to get rolling and drove the rest of the way home without any problems until I was in town and had difficulty keeping it running at idle.
The next morning it ran fine again. A local mechanic changed the fuel filter, but the problem came back as soon as the temp neared 90 degrees. A mechanic friend who witnessed the problem said that it definitely sounded like a lack of fuel and not an electrical problem. Is there a way to troubleshoot without swapping parts? If the fuel pump is failing in warm weather, how is it possible that it runs fine at 70 mph, but not at idle? Engine temp gauge looks good. I did get one code after it died the first time (lean mixture, I think he said).
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My 99 Lumina's battery would drain after 36-48 of just sitting (12-24 before replacing the battery.) I had tried somethings did research and had no luck. In January this year I got an oil change at a jiffy lube type place. They removed something by the spark-plug wires right at the bottom edge of the windshield. When I tried to start it the car engine it jerked, shook, and didn't start. They did something in that same spot then it started right up.To my surprise the battery didn't drain any more!! Then 2 weeks later it started running rough when I slowed down, started to die, was very hard to start, then ran very rough, next I had to step on the gas and ride the brake for 4 blocks then it died in my driveway. That all happened over 15 miles wile in traffic. I tried to start it many times with no luck. The battery was fine after 4+ months of sitting.
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My 2000 honda accord v6 wont start (150,000 miles). It feels like its cranking over just wont go anywhere from there. So it doesn't seem like an starter issue or battery issue. It has done this to me in the past a couple of times but after letting it sit there for a bit it started back up. The weather hasn't been an issue on the times it wanted to start or not start. I know a oil change is due and
The EGR valve needs to be cleaned/replaced but could those things make my car from not starting? When i put the key in the car and turn it to the II, the Maintenance required light comes on and the light for the key just keeps blinking.
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My car just started knocking terribly--making a really loud noise at all speed and all gears. (Not when idling, though.) It is a 2000 Honda Accord. Both the oil and the oil filter were changed about 2000 miles ago, so the oil should be good. What might be causing this?
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I have a 2000 Accord with about 65000 miles on it, 5 speed manual. The clutch is getting flaky. One time recently, it went to the floor and stayed there until I pulled the pedal back out. Then it worked fine for many days. Dealer could not get the problem to repeat; no leaks found. But now sometimes it is hard to get the car in gear (especially reverse), or the clutch feels spongy, but not in a consistent way.
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