My son drives a 99 Honda Accord with over 180k miles.Today as he turned a corner, the lights dimmed and the gauges baled to zero and then all went back to normal- happened within seconds. No loss of steering or braking control.
View 3 RepliesA few weeks ago my car over heated and stopped. I had it towed and the mechanic changed the water pump, timing belt, gasket cover and more. About two weeks ago I noticed antifreeze on my drive way. Took it back in and the mechanic changed a clamp on the radiator. it continued to leak antifreeze. I took it to Pep Boys for a pressurized test, they couldn't find a leak, but did say my radiator hoses needed changing and they suspect the radiator cap is the problem. That was a week ago. I just got back from vacation and the reservoir keeps getting low every day, but not at the minimum line since the first mechanic filled it to the top. There is not apparent leak under neath the car. No smell when I start. Oil is not milky. Called first mechanic he said sounds like a blown head gasket....
Car is Honda Accord 1999, 138K miles.
So i have a 1996 honda accord, it has 253k miles, i know, alot of miles. Well, i noticed it has been losing coolant pretty fast, i would fill it up with coolant and it would run out by the next day. I also notice that when i am sitting still, it runs hot, not sure if that goes along with it losing coolant rapidly or if that could be something else. I checked my oil dipstick the other day, it doesn't seem to have coolant mixing in with the oil, so i don't think it would be a head blown, i know i do need a gasket changed, but not an actual head for the engine. I haven't noticed any coolant in my driveway, then again I shouldn't have a leak, i just had the radiator, thermostat, water pump and the bell housing all changed a couple months ago. I also noticed that i am running low on oil more often as well. The other day, after i topped it off with oil, it was blowing out white smoke off and on and then it stopped, what could that be?
View 3 RepliesMy 99 civic 5 speed has a weird power loss issue. Right after starting up for the first few mins while I'm driving (any speed and gear) it'll start lagging like it isn't getting gas or something.
Letting off the gas peddle stops it, then pressing the gas causes it again. If I go up and down on the gas peddle it goes away for a few seconds. If I'm just at idle the idle speed goes down and down untill it almost stalls then it revs up a bit and then does it again.
I had major tune up on my vehicle. First I had the timing belt and accessory belts replaced including of course the water pump. I also had the shocks replaced. My question is now everytime I start the car I would hear a screeching noise for several seconds and also when I engaged the a/c. Furthermore, in regards to my shocks when I drive over 60 mph my steering wheel begins to vibrate tremendously.
View 1 RepliesHonda accord( 2005), Engine lights off and on, Radio goes off a few seconds and then reboots by itself , ABS lights off and on, car still runs, power seems to be down slightly when engine lights comes on , stalled twice, but restarted right away. Relay switch replaced, PCM replaced( Diagnosis suggested) , problem continues.What should I check next ?
View 9 RepliesI have a 2008 Honda Accord that about 4 months ago the drl light on the dashboard would come on for a few seconds and then go off. This happened 2 or 3 times a week. During this time the driver side drl light would also quit working. A couple of weeks later it progressed to the drl dashboard light would come on, then the tpms dashboard light would also come on. After an intermittent period of time (seconds to minutes) the icon showing low tire pressure would flash for a second and the drl light and tpms light would go off. This happened maybe 3 times in a day, then not happen again for a week or so. Air pressure in all tires was correct. About week ago it progressed to the drl dashboard light and the tpms dashboard light stay on all the time and neither the drl light (drl mode or high beam or will work on the driver side. In the past few days the low beam on the driver side has also quit working.
View 1 RepliesI have a '92 Honda Accord LX and has 200,000 mi. When I tried to start the car it will not start. The engine will not turn over and a rapid clicking will follow a few seconds later. I do not think its the battery b/c the radio still works as well as the lights. I'm suspecting it might be the starter motor or the solenoid?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2007 Honda Fit with a standard transmission. My car has started losing power and decelerating even though, even with my foot on the gas. If I am on the interstate It will drop to about 35-40 and ten after 15 seconds or so it will accelerate again. If I am driving in town and I stop it will stall out. NO lights come on with it. It is very intermittent and I had to to the dealership and they said they couldn't tell what was going on since it didn't do it for them. I only have 70,000 miles and should have a road ready but I am afraid to take in on the interstate anywhere after a couple of frightening instances.
View 3 RepliesMy car is a 1998 Honda Civic DX hatchback 5 speed manual. About 180,000+ miles. For a while now the car seems to have a problem with power under load. If I am on an incline the engine will start making a metallic gurgling noise as I push on the gas. It increases as I give it more gas, or the hill gets steeper; at which point the car usually begins to slow down depending on my speed. It is most noticeable when I shift into a higher gear and then my speed drops into the range where I could downshift. It also happens often however at 60 mph+. On inclines at that speed, the car will gradually lose speed down into the 50's if the hill is long enough/steep enough even with the gas pedal floored. I'll need to shift into fourth to keep at 50 mph until I'm over the hill.
I've been told by a few friends/mechanics that it may be the catalytic convertor. Hard to test it or just weld on a new one though since the cat is integrated into the manifold, etc. So I took it to a trusted mechanic who did a bunch of work. He said it was only firing on three cylinders instead of four due to carbon tracking, but wasn't concerned with the cat. He did a tune-up and replaced the distributor cap and rotor, spark plugs and wires, valve cover and gasket (leaking), air filter and fuel filter, and cleaned the throttle body. Also replaced both rear strut assemblies.
Until now there had been NO check engine light signaling a problem. I got the car back and it felt good at first, but still seemed to make the noise albeit quieter. The power was better, but only for maybe a couple days. The engine again started making the noise more often and losing power in the same ways. Also, the check engine light came on a few days later. Blinking the first time, then it would come on for a couple of days, then off for a couple, etc. Now it has come on and stayed on constantly for a couple of weeks. I had the engine codes read and got three codes:
P1456- the usual emission control system leak... fuel cap possibility, etc. I'm guessing it isn't this for the most part...
P0141- "secondary HO2s12 (Heated oxygen sensor- bank 1, sensor 2) circuit heater malfunction.
and the strangest of all since I'd expect it to be fixed...
P0301- "cylinder number 1 misfire detected" ...
So it could be something else with the cylinders going on, O2 sensor having to do with cat. stuff, etc.? I also will be due for a timing belt change soon I believe, but that would not be causing any of this I don't think. I'll be bringing it back to the mechanic to have a look again, but haven't had the time yet.
I have a '98 Civic Dx with 217,000+ miles on it. Last year I had the water pump and timing belt replaced and beginning in February I noticed my antifreeze was disappearing but couldn't find any leaks. One mechanic said it was the water pump, so I had it redone under warranty. The antifreeze is still disappearing and now my mechanic tells me it's the radiator. (Don't you think he would have said that the first time?) It seems that the transmission is starting to go (see below) so I'm wondering if it's worth replacing the radiator or trying to patch any leaks I can find. I've heard such mixed reviews on patching radiator leaks and this mechanic won't do it. The part is cheap and I can probably replace or repair it myself. So, repair or replace?
I've had a few incidents of my car shuddering after I start driving and losing power around the first turn. Sometimes the shudder is worse if I've turned the car on, idled for a few moments and then started driving. The shudder was similar to one time when I had a bad spark plug wire, so thinking it was that I gave my car a tune up-- new plugs, wires, cap, rotor. But two mornings ago it nearly stalled as I was taking the first turn off my street.
Then yesterday morning it nearly stalled after I backed out of my parking space and began driving (I'd sat for a few moments with the car idling before backing out). For a while I've felt like it wasn't really getting full power around the first turn. I don't know how to describe it except that pushing on the accelerator didn't really do anything until the car had completed the turn and straightened out. I haven't had any problems throughout the rest of the day-- it drives just fine. It's only when it's been sitting at least overnight.
I'm in denial about it being my transmission. It has never liked to start when I've down to or below a quarter tank of gas, and someone else who called the show about that was told that the fuel system was probably losing pressure as it sat overnight, which sounds like what happens to mine. Could this be another symptom of that? Or could something in the fuel system be clogged, like the filter? (My Dad had a clogged fuel filter once and his car would lose power on an incline.) Or is this perhaps the beginning of the end for my little friend? I'm at 217k...
This applies to a 2001 F-350 with 73,000 miles on the engine. Engine oil level is good, batteries charged, HPOP reservoir is full and passes Cody test with flying colors. Fuel pump runs for 20 seconds at key on. Start takes about 6 seconds. If I shut the key off and restart immediately it starts in under 2 seconds but if I wait about 30 seconds it's a 6 second start. Here is an AE that I ran on it, it has me stumped. FWIW it seems to start quicker when AE is hooked up. ?? An odd whir type of noise comes out from somewhere under the hood when I first turn the key on and when I clear the codes with AE.
View 14 Replies99 Accord, 160,000, automatic, 4cyl vtec, properly maintained.
Recently the CEL came on following an episode of the engine running poorly. It painted EGR code P0401 which is being dealt with, and, P1739: "third clutch pressure switch circuit fault." I investigated briefly in my Haynes and found that P1739 is one of the codes that will not trip the CEL.
I have not had any major issues with this transaxle. The fluid is at its proper level, Honda Z1 brand, and in good shape. I have it changed every 20,000 miles. Sometimes if I am driving along in 2nd gear, right around the upper speed limit before it would shift to third (20-25 mph), the car will jerk just a little but it is driveable. Could this be related?
Should I let this slide until something happens or should I get the to a transmission tech? What would you do? Could the thing go into limp mode one day without warning?
I have a 2000 Honda Accord that has no power won't start . Just replaced a fuel pump spark plugs battery .. Wondering if it could be a short some where . It did start today then I shut it off and try to start again and had no power .
View 9 Replies6 Months ago, when entering a carwash, the engine on my 1999 Honda Accord stopped immediately as the underbody spray hit the car. I rolled it back, tried a few times, and it started and ran as though nothing happened. Earlier this week, during a rain storm, I drove through a puddle and again, the engine immediately stopped and I coasted to a stop.
Both times electrical components in the car continued to work (wipers, lights, windows), but I tried to jump it just in case to no avail.I had it towed to a repair shop where they said that all the harnesses were wet, so they dried it out and was able to get it to run again. But they couldn't tell where the water was coming from. There is also an issue with the center panel fuse (radio and power outlet); it shorts out whenever replaced with a new fuse (not sure if this is related to the main issue...).
I called a Honda Dealership repair center to see if this was something they had heard of before with this model/year, and it was new to them. They also said not to bring it to them since their diagnostics wouldn't discover anything if it was running.
The car is running fine now, but I'm always going to expect it to stop unexpectedly.
I have a 1999 Honda Accord. It consumes oil but is not leaking, the compression is good, and there is no sign of burning. What could it be? Might sludge result in the problem?
View 19 RepliesMy 1999 Accord V6 with 180k miles has started overheating. The fans will not run unless the A/C is on. I replaced the coolant temp switch A, because the fan came on when I jumpered the pins of the fan connector. The fan will not come on, even when the temp gauge goes all the way to the top. Jumper the pins or turn on the climate control, the fans kick on, and the temp drops. Tested the old temp switch in boiling water and it tested fine. Tried spreading the pins on the temp sensor in case the connection was just bad and that did nothing.
Otherwise, the system seems to work fine. Top coolant hose gets hot first, then bottom gets hot after 10 minutes. The heat works, and I didn't see any signs of exterior leaks. What else might keep the cooling fans from coming on?
I am the original owner of a 1999 Honda Accord (automatic transmission) which now has 184,000 miles on it. I just replaced all the tires last year, had to put in a new battery this year, also had to replace the a/c hoses earlier in July.Very recently I had had some problems with the car shifting and when the check engine light came on I took it into the dealership who says it needs a new transmission. They want $4200 to fix it.I have had all the servicing done including oil and filter changes at this dealership which is in Houston, TX.I really like this car, and its the fourth Honda we have owned; three of which were purchased with this same dealer.
View 12 RepliesI have a 99 Honda Accord 4cyl. I am having a problem with not starting from time to time.some days it is fine and will start every time others it might not. It will turn over, fuel pump is running, replaced main/fuel relay, check engine light does not come on and green key light is not on or blink when it dont start. I can leave it for awhile come back and it starts.
View 11 RepliesMy latest car, 93 Honda Accord, has been my most unreliable car so far but I bought it earlier this year for $800 and it has <75,000 miles on it so I keep fixing it. Last night, after filling up about 30 miles before, I noticed the RPM's shoot down to nothing but then immediately go right back up again. I drove for a couple more miles on the freeway and then it happened again but the RPM did not return to its previous level. Erma (the car) lost power and gradually I steered it off the road as it slowed down. I waited awhile and kept trying to start it up. She sounded peppy (no clicking, squealing or straining) and the lights stayed on but it just wouldn't start. Eventually she started again, after about 15 minutes, and drove home with no problems. I live 45 minutes outside of town (where I work and go to graduate school - poor student card) so I am hoping for some guidance for things to try to make sure it doesnt strand me again, especially more permanently. Seems electrical? I recently, in the last 8 months, replaced the starter and the electric ignition assembly, as well as the brake master cylinder.
View 13 RepliesMy car suddenly looses power without any warning. I have taken it to the Honda dealer on a few occasions. There was a recall on the ignition chamber a few years back it happened again a few times after. Took it back they replaced the ignition chamber again about 8 months ago or so, and just today died again. They have done diagnostic on the car and cant find anything wrong. Its so scary because all of a sudden just shuts down. The radio stays on, the door lights show that they are open the steering wheel locks so I cant even pull over to the side of the road. Just stops dead. It seems that most of times that this has happened has been while driving at a pretty low speed( I don't know if that has anything to do with it)? MY car is a 2001 Honda Accord Ex with 80k miles
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