Honda - Accord :: 1999 - Intermittent Engine Shut Down While Driving
Jan 30, 2013
I have a 1999 Honda Accord 4 cylinder w/ manual transmission that will intermittently kill while driving. Obviously its distressing, but its been a couple months in between incidents, so its hard to take it seriously, because the car will operate normally for long periods of time, but when it kills, especially on the freeway, it can be frightening.
Luckily the car will start again - pop it into neutral and turn the key, stick it back in 5th gear, and keep driving. Previously, but not lately, from a cold start the car would start up briefly (1 second or so), then kill, and if then if you crank it again it would start right up. Not sure how it relates to the issue while driving, but it could be relevant.
I have heard it might be the fuel pump going bad slowly. Not sure on this, haven't replaced anything there yet (cost/time)I have heard it could be an electrical relay (can't remember the exact name) but I did replace that, and still having the issue.
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I was driving my car to school and right before I got to a busy intersection the speedometer dropped off and then my engine shut itself off, the radio and dashboard panel still had power and were working fine, the driving panel had lights blinking like I had the car in the on position without the engine going. I had to put my car into park and then start it up again.
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My '99 Accord has developed a bad habit of shutting itself off while I'm driving. The first time this happened was a few months ago. The engine shut off and the key light flashed, as if I had turned the key to shut the car off. The radio and lights remained on. It started again without incident.
In the last month, it has been happening more frequently. I have noticed that sometimes I am unable to get the engine to turn over the first time. This is always followed by the car shutting off at some point while I'm driving.
Today, I was unable to start my car the first few times I tried and it shut off three or four times on my five minute trip home. The radio, lights for the A/C and windows all still had power. I had trouble restarting the car after each incident but did eventually get it going again.
What the problem is? Maybe it's just time for a new car...
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My 1999 Honda Accord is making a whirring noise sometimes. It happens occasionally, now more frequently than last month. It sometimes happens when I start the engine, but am still in Park. Mostly it happens when I'm actually driving. both slowly on back roads and fast on the highway. What would cause this?
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I have a Honda Accord that has a very strange kind of failure. I've taken it to two mechanics - both fixed "something" - but I'm still without a car.
99 Honda Accord LX202,019 Miles
My check engine light is on and one time while driving down the road my car turns off. I need to make a road trip so I go see Mechanic 1.
Mechanic 1 - Check engine light had been on and his machine tells him the O2 sensors need to be replaced. We replace both. Light goes off. When asked about the 'spontaneous shutoff' - said it was a fluke and probably no big deal. He can't see anything other than what the computer tells him to replace.
Instrument panel currently shows no lights on. Everything works normally. I drive 1500 miles back to Wi and right as I get there....
Case 1 - I am driving down the street (residential, freeway, whatever) going any speed and the instrument panel suddenly loses all power. Speedometer drops to 0. Odometer drops to 0. The cabin (radio, clock) remain on and undisturbed. Engine is completely unresponsive to depressing the pedal and seems to be completely disengaged. The car is hard to steer but can be angled off the road. (but you can still hear your music....hooray...as you try to not get killed dodging off the side of the road)
Case 2 - On the side of the road/parking lot and the car will not turn on. Seems like it is about to start, but then dies before completing turning over. You wait 15 minutes. Then the car will actually turn over a bit more, but still not complete a start.
Case 3 - As I start the car I press the gas and rev the engine up to 4K RPMs for 4 seconds. The car then remains on. I drive for as long as it will go before Case 1 happens again.
While in WI I take it to a mechanic 2.
Mechanic 2 - Runs a test and believes there is a failure in the ignition assembly. Replaces 1 part that spans 3 different parts because he believes its cheaper to do that than to have him go all the way in there to get the 1 that he thinks is bad.
I drive the car 1400 back to AZ and Case 2 happens when we stop to get supplies. I perform case 3, the car starts and we make it back to California alive.
I try to drive the car around locally after getting back but cases 1-3 happen every other time I drive it.
Case X - The car sat idle for a few weeks as I thought it was "not safe to drive." Power locks on the car start to fail. No longer can get into the car without putting a key in a door and only that door will open. Car now has no power.
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Does it every time. It started suddenly out of the blue. Start it up if i leave town i get 3 or 4 miles out if ni stay in town i might get back home from post office if i hustle. Let it sit 10 or 15 minutes and it will start again for 4 or 5 mins. again. I have replaced the distributor the whole unit and replaced the ignition switch, both parts are new.
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I have a 1999 Honda Accord that keeps turning off while I'm driving it. It has been doing it for a couple months now. Sometimes, it shuts off when the car is idling or stopped at a traffic light. Other times, it turns off while driving at cruising speed. When it turns off, electrical devices still function, ie. power windows go up and down, radio works, lights work...
I've replaced a couple different parts to try and fix it, but no luck as of yet. So far, I've had the following parts replaced: the main relay; the ignition coil in the distributor; the module in distributor; and the air filter. I also had the spark plugs regapped, and I have tried driving with the gas cap loosened to see if there was a problem with a vacuum forming in the gas tank.
I have a friend suggesting that it could be the idle control valve or the throttle positioning sensor. Could the computer be going out?
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I have a 2007 Honda Accord, automatic transmission. Engine light of the car turns on while i am driving the car. When the light is on the car slows down and it does not give me the same speed when I press on the gas as if the gear is not shifting. When I stop the can and turn the ignition off and turn it again, the light disappears and he car runs fine. However, this may repeat itself after driving for a few mile and sometimes disappears for days.
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When I was driving my car the engine was running fine, but all of a sudden there would be no power to the wheels as I was driving. I tried shifting the car down into lower gears, but the car still was just coming to a stop even though I was revving the engine. I was able to limp home because I could turn the car off for about 30 seconds, and when I would start it back up the engine and transmission would work fine together for a few blocks and then I would have the same problem. I did check my transmission fluid, which was low (at the lower dot when hot). Could this problem be fixed by simply changing and filling the transmission fluid? Or do you think it is something else? My car is an automatic with about 114,000 miles. At about 98,000 miles I had a full tune-up and my timing belt was replaced.
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6 Months ago, when entering a carwash, the engine on my 1999 Honda Accord stopped immediately as the underbody spray hit the car. I rolled it back, tried a few times, and it started and ran as though nothing happened. Earlier this week, during a rain storm, I drove through a puddle and again, the engine immediately stopped and I coasted to a stop.
Both times electrical components in the car continued to work (wipers, lights, windows), but I tried to jump it just in case to no avail.I had it towed to a repair shop where they said that all the harnesses were wet, so they dried it out and was able to get it to run again. But they couldn't tell where the water was coming from. There is also an issue with the center panel fuse (radio and power outlet); it shorts out whenever replaced with a new fuse (not sure if this is related to the main issue...).
I called a Honda Dealership repair center to see if this was something they had heard of before with this model/year, and it was new to them. They also said not to bring it to them since their diagnostics wouldn't discover anything if it was running.
The car is running fine now, but I'm always going to expect it to stop unexpectedly.
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Intermittent start on 96 accord, will start 1in 4 times. no noise as if it was dead. replaced starter. worked for a week... did it again after a few days.. replaced starter again.. diagnostic on electrical ok....
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I own a 2005 Honda Accord LX with just over 44,000 miles. Recently I've been hearing an intermittent noise coming from the front of the car.
It started a few weeks ago when I cranked the wheel hard to the right to get out of a street parking spot. After I did this, it sounded like something was dragging on the ground (like the muffler). After I turned left at an intersection, the "dragging" noise went away, but I could still hear a faint sound similar to metal pieces being rubbed together. It does not sound like the brakes are grinding, but like a piece of metal is being rubbed against another piece. The noise goes away when the car comes to a stop.
These two sounds come and go, and usually after I have made a turn. The rubbing noise comes and goes, and I hear that more than the dragging noise. What might be causing this? Is this a major issue? Should I take this to a mechanic or the Honda dealership?
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I have a 2004 Honda Accord EX 4 cyl. with 156k miles.
A couple days ago, the CEL came on. It drove fine, but if I accelerated it wouldn't shift smoothly. It felt like it was hitting the rev limiter.
I took it to get scanned, but the reader didn't work. On my way to another shop, the light went off.
Today, the light came back on with the same symptoms. No shops were open, so I disconnected the battery hoping to reset things, and it worked! No other issues on the way to work. Smooth shifts, smooth idle, simply normal.
Obviously there's an issue. Getting it scanned is a pain; AutoZone and the like cant scan in CA any more. What is the culprit? I'm guessing O2 sensor.
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I had my car battery replaced about three months ago and when it was replaced they put those little anti-corrosion felt pads at the base of the terminals as well as anti-corrosion grease. My positive terminal would never maintain a secure connection so I removed the felt pad and replaced the terminal connection. Now my only problem is whenever it is very cold outside and I try to start the car, I lose power instantly as soon as the starter is about to engage. I always have to twist the positive terminal back and forth a couple times, listening to the crunching sound of the anti-corrosion grease, and power is restored.
Is there any brand of grease I can use that won't cause this issue? Yes, I have removed the terminal, cleaned out the old grease and replaced with another pouch of the cheap stuff at the autozone counter and that didn't work. There is no corrosion buildup on the terminals but I've consistently had the problem for the past few months.
I know Honda had a recall on ignition switched a while ago, and they replaced mine, but I'm not sure if there is any direct connection since my daily fix involves me manipulating the battery terminal to get the car started. 2003 Accord EX ...
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2000 Honda Accord. Power steering fluid is coming up and out of the reservoir when the car is shut off. I recently had to take the hose off and move it out of the way just to make it easier to replace the belt. Lost some fluid and put more back in. And now this. Also is whining when you turn the steering wheel. What do I do?
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I have a 1999 honda civic that has had an issue with randomly shutting off lately. It always happens within a minute of me turning the car on and I usually have to wait several minutes before the car will crank again. When it does the engine shuts off and all lights immediately go off. Once I finally do get the car to crank its hit or miss if it will stay running, but if it makes it through the first minute or so its usually golden. Its like it has to have a perfect connection or something or it wont stay on. The only suggestion I've had from someone is possibly the ignition being bad.
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92 Honda accord. This car has two radiator fans. The passenger side fan comes on intermittently after the car has been shut off, causing the cars battery to drain. If the battery isn't disconnected then the car has to be jumped every time due to the fan running. Cars temp doesn't get hot, checked coolant, everything seems to be working fine.
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1999 honda accord LX/AT, 156k, 4 cyl, automatic, original owner, been doing all the regular maintenance..
About a year back, got the EGR valve cleaned and then replaced due to some stalls.a month back engine stalled and gave up on highway 10 miles into the morning drive.had to put it in neutral, and push it to shoulder.. ignition would turn over, engine would try to start but wouldn't.shop replaced the IAC.. they didn't say if there were any codes..
All this while, in stop-and-go traffic, where i try to be efficient and keep pumping on thegas pedal and cruising as opposed to braking, i have been noticing adelay/hesitation between pressing on the gas, and the engine responding.sometimes i feel like a lurch, and fear that a stall is coming, but the rpm's pick up and thecar goes on.
If I am decisively hitting the gas or braking, the engine is behaving better!it is when i am pumping on the gas and releasing, that i observe this hesitation.. Also there is a delay in the car shifting into higher gear..
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So, for the last week or so my cars has started dieing while driving. First time it died randomly when approaching stop signs a couple years ago. Now it seems to have progressed and dies while on the highway and now has become more frequent to date. I checked for vacuum leak and spraying all visible lines that I could see from engine bay. Engine codes...the array of engine codes. P0420 catalyst system efficiency, P0706 trans solenoid 'C' clutch, and P0430 another catalyst system inefficiency to join it's brother P0420. The car starts up fine in the morning. Car does not ride rough.
Today I changed the spark plugs and noticed oil in all 4 wells and a lot of oil in the 3rd one. I changed the spark plugs because they were 20k miles and figured I might as well replace them while I'm diagnosing the car. So turned back on the car after doing the job and got a puff of smoke...go to o'reillys and new codes. P108(MAP Pressure Circuit High Input), P110(Something about coolant being high input) and still the P0420. (Shop I took it to must have removed old codes. Not sure why).
So there shouldn't be oil in the wells because my shop did head gasket job 2 years ago. I'm pretty confident in their work, so I'm thinking it must be blowby and because the amount of oil in all 4 wells. (But then again this is the cars second head gasket job, so who knows) If it is indeed the rings causing blow by, is it safe to drive around with oil in the wells? If I drain it regularly can I continue to drive it safely? Is there a test to determine if it's blowby?
I ran car for oil cap off looking for smoke, nothing. I did feel a steady stream of air though, not sure what's normal and abnormal on that front.
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So over the past year, I've noticed an increased 'hum' while driving in my 2001 Honda Accord Sedan. Originally this only occurred while going 80 on the Interstate. I just passed it off as going over the speed limit and tires then. Over the past few months however, I've noticed it occurring at speeds as low as 30-40mph. It's not deafening, but is a solid 'mmmmm' coming from what sounds like the rear left tire. When I make a right-turning curve the sound lessens or vanishes during that curve entirely, but a left-turning curve makes no change to the sound. As I slow to below 30mph, the sound disappears.
The rear tires are due for replacing soon, but I've driven on MUCH barer tires in college with no recollection of this sort of sound (in other cars). The wheel appears to be solid with no wobble as well.
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My car ( civic 1.5 dx duel injected) just cut off while I was going down the free pay like the key had been turned off. Now it turns but won't crank. I am getting spark from my plugs, my fuel pump still works, i think my injectors are ok, when I took off the air box I can see fuel going into the throttle body, my throttle isn't stuck, diaphragm seems to have a seal. I took the head cover off and there isn't any fuel/oil in the valves. What could it be? After I put the plugs/cap/head cover back on it cranked for a second then idled down and back to no start.
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