Honda - Accord :: 1999 - Check Engine Light On / Car Turns Off While Driving Down The Road
May 1, 2014
I have a Honda Accord that has a very strange kind of failure. I've taken it to two mechanics - both fixed "something" - but I'm still without a car.
99 Honda Accord LX202,019 Miles
My check engine light is on and one time while driving down the road my car turns off. I need to make a road trip so I go see Mechanic 1.
Mechanic 1 - Check engine light had been on and his machine tells him the O2 sensors need to be replaced. We replace both. Light goes off. When asked about the 'spontaneous shutoff' - said it was a fluke and probably no big deal. He can't see anything other than what the computer tells him to replace.
Instrument panel currently shows no lights on. Everything works normally. I drive 1500 miles back to Wi and right as I get there....
Case 1 - I am driving down the street (residential, freeway, whatever) going any speed and the instrument panel suddenly loses all power. Speedometer drops to 0. Odometer drops to 0. The cabin (radio, clock) remain on and undisturbed. Engine is completely unresponsive to depressing the pedal and seems to be completely disengaged. The car is hard to steer but can be angled off the road. (but you can still hear your music....hooray...as you try to not get killed dodging off the side of the road)
Case 2 - On the side of the road/parking lot and the car will not turn on. Seems like it is about to start, but then dies before completing turning over. You wait 15 minutes. Then the car will actually turn over a bit more, but still not complete a start.
Case 3 - As I start the car I press the gas and rev the engine up to 4K RPMs for 4 seconds. The car then remains on. I drive for as long as it will go before Case 1 happens again.
While in WI I take it to a mechanic 2.
Mechanic 2 - Runs a test and believes there is a failure in the ignition assembly. Replaces 1 part that spans 3 different parts because he believes its cheaper to do that than to have him go all the way in there to get the 1 that he thinks is bad.
I drive the car 1400 back to AZ and Case 2 happens when we stop to get supplies. I perform case 3, the car starts and we make it back to California alive.
I try to drive the car around locally after getting back but cases 1-3 happen every other time I drive it.
Case X - The car sat idle for a few weeks as I thought it was "not safe to drive." Power locks on the car start to fail. No longer can get into the car without putting a key in a door and only that door will open. Car now has no power.
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Once this happens, simply turning the ignition off and then on again seems solves the problem. We've taken the car to two mechanics, one who said the belt was slipping and one who said the belt was fine!
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I have a 2007 Honda Accord, automatic transmission. Engine light of the car turns on while i am driving the car. When the light is on the car slows down and it does not give me the same speed when I press on the gas as if the gear is not shifting. When I stop the can and turn the ignition off and turn it again, the light disappears and he car runs fine. However, this may repeat itself after driving for a few mile and sometimes disappears for days.
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I have a 1999 Honda Accord that keeps turning off while I'm driving it. It has been doing it for a couple months now. Sometimes, it shuts off when the car is idling or stopped at a traffic light. Other times, it turns off while driving at cruising speed. When it turns off, electrical devices still function, ie. power windows go up and down, radio works, lights work...
I've replaced a couple different parts to try and fix it, but no luck as of yet. So far, I've had the following parts replaced: the main relay; the ignition coil in the distributor; the module in distributor; and the air filter. I also had the spark plugs regapped, and I have tried driving with the gas cap loosened to see if there was a problem with a vacuum forming in the gas tank.
I have a friend suggesting that it could be the idle control valve or the throttle positioning sensor. Could the computer be going out?
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On my 2002 F250 7.3 I kept getting a check engine light when I pulled my 5th wheel uphill, I took it to a shop and they told me my HPOP needed replaced. I bought a new pump and installed it. Now my check engine light comes on and turns off during normal driving conditions. I do not have a code yet but hoping there is some idea on what might have happened.
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My question: was there some some OBD code or light I should have expected (that didn't show)? What did the flashing Check Engine Light mean?
At 10:30pm last night, I picked my wife and bro-in-law up from the Logan airport, and on the way to drop BIL at his house, I saw a brief whisp of steam/smoke rise from the passenger side hood/wheel-well when idling at a top-light. I exclaimed that the car was smoking, but BOTH my wife and BIL insisted that we had been stopped over a steam grate. (In 70 degree weather? I puzzled, but since BOTH said that had been the case...).
A few minutes later, the check-engine light flashed (three times, I think) and then went off. I drive with an OBD ScanTool attached on the dash, so I immediately switched it to scan the codes, but it reported "clear" / no codes! Either immediately before or immediately after, the car lost accelerating power for 1 or 2 seconds (at most), but then resumed normal driving. No other dash lights were on, though I did not look at the temp gauge.
I am a former chef and professional cook, and have a VERY sensitive sense of smell-- there was NONE; I watched attentively, and the absence of further smoke/steam seemed to support the unseasonal steam-grate hypothesis. I had also picked up the car within the last 24 hours from THE HONDA DEALERSHIP, who I had asked to look everything over to ensure another 6 months of problem-free driving. (I rejected their offer of a $249.00 "triple flush" of transmission, brakes, and pwr steering.) We have otherwise had zero problems with the transmission or cooling-- the car is old, but maintained reasonably well and driven less that 5000 mi / year. Boston driving, but not aggressive or 19 years old!
No further thought, as all seemed okay except for the brief "blip", and pregnant wife, brother-in-law, two dogs, and I all wanted to get home.Drove the 2ish miles to our apartment, with no further blips. At a stoplight about 3 blocks from home, a LOT of smoke/steam started coming out from the hood. Still no lights or OBD codes! At that point, I pulled over within 5 seconds, and noticed that the temp was pinned or nearly so (If there is supposed to be a light on the gauges, I had it all the way dimmed). Looking under the hood, the spray pattern on the hood insulator made it easy to find the split in one of the hoses connected just under the distributor (about 1.25in OD; I'm guessing coolant or transmission, based on the symptoms??).
While waiting for a tow-truck (since I wasn't even sure if it would do any damage to drive the remaining blocks to my driveway), and after things had a chance to cool a bit, my wife restarted the engine for a second so I could check if any additional fluid came out of that split, but none did. Once the temp was back down towards the low end in 20ish minutes, I drove the car about one block so I could stop blocking traffic-- it drove fine, and the temp didn't visibly rise in that 200 yards. Still, the CEL was not on (or flashing) during startup or while running, and there were NO OBD CODES.
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I have a 2000 Honda Accord V6 sedan (under 100k miles). For two years now I have had a check engine light.
Originally I was told it was a CO sensor that was broke. But now when I get the car inspected, the inspector says I have a catalytic error.
So off to the mechanic. They replace the catalytic converter, claiming it was just an empty shell.
Check engine light comes back on the next day after all that money spent. Back to the mechanic. He says now that the intakes into the catalytic system there are all clogged, so that needs to be scrubbed. Many hundred dollars later, and the problem persists. Still a check engine light.
What could be causing this check engine light nightmare? I cannot get the car inspected so I have that added head ache.
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The check engine light stays on. The hood of my car was not securely locked when I purchased it, I'm sure it's due to an accident because it's damaged. Can the hood be a reason the check engine light stays on..it does not blink.
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Out of nowhere my check engine light came on bought some oil thought it was low, and i just recently got an oil change. Checked my sparks and it was okay. Couple hours later my car began over heating With engine light still on, and my temperature gauges increased knew something was wrong, filled it with anti freeze to cool it down, continued driving and the issue continued. Bought me a knew sensor, I noticed it worked but did not fix the issue, my car continues to over heat, couple days later without driving it, this morning on my way to work it was really cold so my car did not overheat, but my check engine light began blinking and my vehicle began rattling from my house all the way to work, for about 9 miles. Whats wrong with it? Is it safe to drive back home after work.??
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My mechanic tells me I need the intake manifold gasket replaced (check engine light on, engine surging, running very rough). How much damage can I do to the car by doing this repair myself and screwing it up? I've done lots of repairs on my car before -- brake pads, rotors, replace oil pan. I also have a copy of the manufacturer's shop manual.
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I am a grad student hoping my car will hang in there till graduation next year. I have about 227,000 miles on my Honda Accord Wagon and recently the odometer stopped working, S light started flashing, and the check engine light came on. This only happens sometimes, and the check engine light does not always come on when the S light flashes and odometer stops working. I've continued driving the car to see what happens and so far, no problems have come up. I have driven another 1000 miles and am hoping I can just ignore the problem and continue driving the vehicle since I am not in a position to fix it or get a new car.
Recently I passed my California emissions test and she seems to be running smooth. Any thoughts or warnings as to why sometimes these signals happen?
I have to drive with GPS on all the time to know my speed, but other than that I feel OK.
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My 2003 Honda Accord with 101,000 miles started hesitating on acceleration, and a day later my check engine light came on. I went to the auto parts store to borrow one of their diagnostic computers. The code I received for the engine light was from my O2 sensor. What can cause the hesitation and the O2 sensor to read faulty? I have had several O2 sensors go out on other vehicles, but that hasn’t caused any other symptoms before. I would like it to be that simple, seeing as how easy they are to replace, but I don’t want to get my hopes up. Anyway, the car is parked now and I am taking the bus because I can’t afford to take it to a mechanic. I don’t want to waste any money by starting to replace things without having better direction.
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I have a 2005 honda accord. When I was driving today it started to rain, so I turned on my wipers, at first they were ok, but later I noticed the wipers speed went down, and then the check engine light came on, I was still able to use the wipers and everything looked fine. I just had someone changed my oil on Tuesday. I got a new car and I only drove less than one hour per week using this old car. Is it possible the battery or alternator is bad? I will read the code tomorrow.
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My honda accord 2003, 4 cylinder (101000 miles) has constantly check engine light on, also transmission has been rough (it started right after a trip to mountains). The transmission sometimes becomes smooth as normal but still check engine light on and most of times transmission is jerky. I took it to mechanic, he did testing and there was no code.
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My '99 Accord has developed a bad habit of shutting itself off while I'm driving. The first time this happened was a few months ago. The engine shut off and the key light flashed, as if I had turned the key to shut the car off. The radio and lights remained on. It started again without incident.
In the last month, it has been happening more frequently. I have noticed that sometimes I am unable to get the engine to turn over the first time. This is always followed by the car shutting off at some point while I'm driving.
Today, I was unable to start my car the first few times I tried and it shut off three or four times on my five minute trip home. The radio, lights for the A/C and windows all still had power. I had trouble restarting the car after each incident but did eventually get it going again.
What the problem is? Maybe it's just time for a new car...
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My check engine light is flashing and motor skips like a fouled plug. When I tried to change plugs the last plug to the right was pulled down so I couldn't get a wrench on it and covered in oil. How bad is this? Head or engine?
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I have a Honda Accord 2004 Hybrid with 85,000 miles on it. My IMA and check engine light went on less than 2 months ago, and the dealer replaced the starter battery and it was "fixed". Less than 2 months later the same thing happened and the dealer claims that the hybrid battery is failing, need to replace it, and they can't do this anyhow because the part is backordered "indefinitely". Honda extended the hybrid battery to 80,000 miles but you are over the limit. So here's my question:
1. Can the car be driven without the hybrid battery, just using gas engine, without risk of getting stuck somewhere?
2. Is there any other remedy that would be less costly?
3. Was this a known problem that I should have been warned about when I bought the car.
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The check engine light will pop on an off rapid fire and the car will shake violently when you put it into drive or reverse for a minute, then the light goes off and its fine. then you'll be driving fine, and the light blinks on and off rapid fire again, and even if you have your foot to the floor, you cant get much power, then it kicks in and lurches into being fine again. I tried "tune up in a bottle" and it seems worse. I'm scared its transmission or something.. I took it and had it put on the diagnostic machine at autozone and they said there were no codes, which I find hard to believe since my check engine light is blinking on and off so much now. There doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason to when it happens and when its fine. it will be fine for hours of driving, then in a small period of time, it will go through a whole bunch of spells of this happening.also: when this happens, the light that shows what gear you are in on the dash board goes black, then goes back on again when the check engine light goes off. What is going on with my car????!!!!!!
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Been told my EGR valve is ok on my 96 accord . But I may have carbon build up in my suction side . I used deep creep for week to loosen up the build up. What else can I do?
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I have a 1999 Honda Accord 4 cylinder w/ manual transmission that will intermittently kill while driving. Obviously its distressing, but its been a couple months in between incidents, so its hard to take it seriously, because the car will operate normally for long periods of time, but when it kills, especially on the freeway, it can be frightening.
Luckily the car will start again - pop it into neutral and turn the key, stick it back in 5th gear, and keep driving. Previously, but not lately, from a cold start the car would start up briefly (1 second or so), then kill, and if then if you crank it again it would start right up. Not sure how it relates to the issue while driving, but it could be relevant.
I have heard it might be the fuel pump going bad slowly. Not sure on this, haven't replaced anything there yet (cost/time)I have heard it could be an electrical relay (can't remember the exact name) but I did replace that, and still having the issue.
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My 1999 Honda Accord is making a whirring noise sometimes. It happens occasionally, now more frequently than last month. It sometimes happens when I start the engine, but am still in Park. Mostly it happens when I'm actually driving. both slowly on back roads and fast on the highway. What would cause this?
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