Honda - Accord :: 1998 - Rough Downshift Into First Gear When Come To A Complete Stop
Oct 13, 2012
I recently bought a 1998 Honda Accord with 124,000 miles. The car had one owner for 14 years. The carfax indicates the owner maintained service on the vehicle, but didn't go into detail about the work that was done. (only that the started had be replaced) When I come to a complete stop the car downshifts rough into first gear. It almost feels like it slightly jumps forward. Is this a problem I need to address and if so what is the problem? I bought it from a trusted dealership who had their mechanics give it a check and said nothing was wrong with it.
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On my 1996 honda accord ex 2.2v when i press the gas pedal for a bout 2 seconds the engine doesn't do anything, then after those 2 seconds the car finally revs but it still feels like there is no power. I changed the spark plugs to brand new honda brand ones but this didn't work, someone told me that i could have been the fuel filter, and others say its the tranny which one can it be. The only other problem that i have is there is a stutter when i leave from a complete stop, but it only happens when i am in a complete stop, the "no power" issue happens when i try to pass on the free way or want to speed up.
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My car drives fine till it heats up then if I come to a stop it won't go into gear.....
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I have a 2000 Honda Accord EX v6 and I have been taking it the dealer for regular maintenance and Oil Change but today I noticed my Car would not start
I can hear the engine start , but when I put the Gear (automatic ) in either reverse or D4 the engine will stop.
Then I waited for some time and restarted it and It was OK.
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I drive an automatic transmission. After driving about 10 miles, when I come to a stop sign/stoplight in drive 4, the car will "brake" but will idle and then violently shake back into gear. It doesn't seem to happen in Drive 3, so what I do before a stoplight etc is slowly shift down to D2 or D1. Is the transmission totally shot? I had it replaced once.
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My 2009 Sonata (4 Cyl.) has begun to downshift very rough while coming to a stop from about 20 mph. At first I thought it was the brakes, but now I'm convinced it's the transmission. Essentially it "jerks" a couple of times before stopping. It started happening at 30,000+ and only happens when transmission is still cold. Once I've driven for a bit it doesn't happen.
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I have a problem with a bmw 1996 7 series transmission.When I start driving the car all gears shift fine, but when I come to a stop it won't downshift to first gear,i have to put the car in park and then in drive again and it run ok until I come to a stop again.
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When I'm slowing down, usually about 35 mph which i think is going from 3rd to 2nd gear, there is a noticeable rough down shift. Nothing horrible, but definitely much more noticeable than the shifting of all the other gears.
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My 09 Sonata GLS has 50k miles on it. I bought it as a demo model with 9k on it (regret that) as new ... who knows how it was treated.
at 40k miles I noticed that in the morning when I was braking the car would feel like it was slipping out of gear momentarily and it was pretty rough. After a few minutes it would stop and I could continue on my way. The car is an automatic. I noticed it if I let the car decelerate enough that it dropped into first on its own, or if I used the brakes. I figured it must be due to the cold weather or something and was hoping it would clear up. This was only happening after 8 hours of non-use, overnight in the cold.
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I got new brakes pu ton lats month (semi-metalic). Any way I was driving to work and it was raining , roads were wet and my car was shifting weird after coming to a complete stop. once i went it would shift into first gear hard. I took it to a mechanic but he couldn't find a problem.
Then it was fine, no problem but today it was raining an dmy car did the same thing. Anytime I went when a light turned green or his the gas after being at a stop sign. the car would stutter as it shifted into first gear. like it would go , then act like it was stuck and then shift
It has only happened twice and its both been raining. Also my tires are really really bad.
Could it be the tires aren't gripping the road and that's why my cars shifting funny, like the tires aren't caught up?
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When ever i am at a complete stop, i have to hold down the clutch pedal for about 4 seconds before it will go into any gear. If i'm in motion it shifts flawlessly through all gears. But if i stop and put it into neutral and let off the clutch, the next time i push it down it will take about 4 seconds to slide in any gear including reverse. I just bought the truck a few days ago so i don't know its history but everything seems well maintained. What this is and if it will cause major issues down the line?
1995 Ranger XLT 2.3L SOHC 2WD 5spd 169,000 miles...
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My 93' Ranger XLT extra cab 2wd, 4.0 engine and A4LD auto tranny with 126,600 miles has a rough downshift into 2nd gear about 15 or 16 mph. Down shift to 1st is real smooth and upshifting thru the gears is smooth. I just put a new modulator valve on it and upshifts smooth out, they were getting to be hard shifts before changing that valve. I do not know if there is any adjustment that can be made to smooth out the rough downshift when slowing down to a stop for red light. The U-joins are in good shape and new carrier bearing assembly on driveshaft and no extra play in the rear end. A band adjustment maybe or just have to live with it.
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I have a 2000 f250 superduty gas v10 6.8L . I bought this truck about 4 months ago. Now when I take off from a complete stop the truck shakes up until second gear, shifts fine all the way up until the last gear it looses power "loosing power" i mean i can put my foot into the pedal and it takes forever to climb speed meanwhile the RPM'S never skyrocket like it the transmission was slipping if anything a couple times the RPM's dropped are stayed the same then as i take my foot off of the pedal once i have my desired speed sometimes not always the truck will give me a little jerk Also Just the other day I was driving on the highway and decide to put her on cruise control at about 70mph, I set the cruise control and the RPM gauge was just over 2,000 and the tach was fluctuating up and down about 1/16 of an inch. I been reading alot of forums and what I got out of them is it maybe pointing me to a misfire maybe the coil packs? Plugs?It's not something major like a transmission rebuilt.
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So I have a 1998 Honda Accord EX V6. When I turn off the car all the lights in the Dash are on without the key and sometimes the car stays on without the key. The only way I can turn off the car is by pressing the brakes. Don't know what exactly it can be. Also the doors and the battery light in the dash will flash when rolling the windows up or down.
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I have a 1998 Accord and anyone who's driven that car knows that it rides quiet and smooth. I recently took my car to the mechanic for a head gasket change and ever since I got it back, it just doesn't drive the same!!! There is a lot of engine vibration and noise that wasn't there before. When I accelerate the car seems to vibrate every piece of plastic in the car which makes it super noisy. I sent it back 3 times and the mechanic doesn't seem to find any problem with it.
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My accord 1998 only start when it is warm (between 12:00 and 3:00). I changed the fuel pump, spark plugs, and fuse. but it is still the doing the same thing.
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I have a 98 Accord with rear disc brakes and ABS. The rotors on the rear brakes are rusted like the pads are not grabbing at all and when you push on the brakes you have to push really hard to get it to stop. I did tests for the booster to see if it is working and it seems to be. Right now I'm thinking it may be the proportioning valve.
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I have a 98 Honda Accord, automatic, with a 3.0 VTEC engine with 189,350 miles. It was diagnosed with cod P0401: EGR insufficient flow detected.I was told and apparently in the instructions it states the following to repair/fix the problem:
Unplug the EGR Port in the Intake, remove upper portion of Intake Manifold, drill EGR port, install Sleeve and replace EGR Valve. Instructions also indicated I need a EGR Pipe kit: 06175 P8L-A00 which contains a special tool to drill manifold and install Sleeve: Kit 07ZAO-P8AA000.
Is this a easy job? I'm also confused about needing the special tool (I believe it's a drill bit) and drilling the port. Are either one of these two Kits I mentioned really needed? What do you recommend I use to clean the port? I thought I could just clean the port (hole) and replace the manifold gasket.
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I am currently working on my accord and well have hit a bit of trouble nothing too bad. I was just wondering how do you retract the timing belt adjuster for the '98 honda accord.
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I have a 1998 Honda accord with 4 cyl. engine. Recently, the engine would stop at then end of the first block after 8 hours or longer of parking. I am very light on the gas pedal. I generally release the gas and let it roll for a couple of seconds before applying the brakes at the stop sign and during the time, the engine seem to throttle a bit then stops. After a restart and applying gas, it seem fine. What can be wrong with it?
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My 98 honda v6 accord shifts hard sometimes when going into and out of low gears. The transmission guy told me it had to do with the material that was on the clutches wearing off, dislodging, and clogging things. I have been driving the car for several years as is. Should I have the tranny rebuild or keep driving? Am I making matters worse by driving it as is?
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