I have a 97 Honda Accord, 147k miles. Is it a good idea to engage the emergency brake one or two clicks while having to brake while going downhill (while stopping at a stop sign or traffic light)? I feel that without using the e-brake, the front brakes are being overworked.
View 19 RepliesLast night we noticed that the main brake lights (not the CHMSL) on our 1997 Accord sedan wouldn't turn off. I tapped and released the brake pedal to make sure it wasn't stuck. Changed gears through drive, reverse, and park. The lights were continually lit, even after the car was shut off. I didn't want them to drain the battery, so I removed the bulbs (boy, were they HOT) and the car is now grounded temporarily.When I pulled the bulbs, I saw a warning light on the dash come on. I red bar near the bottom of the (non-working) speedometer that says Brake Lights or something. I think it's short hand for "Hey you idiot! Put the brake light bulbs back in!"So at least it knows the circuit is broken. So, the question is, what caused this,and how do I fix it without taking it to the dealership?
View 5 RepliesThe red dash light for my parking brake stays on until I jiggle the brake handle, then it stays off until I re-start the car the next time and then it goes on again. Brake fluid is fine.
Appears to be a faulty switch attached to the handle. How do I fix this? Is it a major job? [it's a 1998 Honda Accord]
Every morning when i leave to work my brake light begins to turn on, when i go over a bump or brake it shuts off. But only happens in the mornings when my car sits over night or long periods of time . What is the cause of this and how can it be replaced?
View 7 RepliesI have a '97 AWD and my brake light, turn signals and emergency flasher have stopped working. I've checked all the bulbs, checked all the fuses (under the dash) replaced the flasher just in front of the fuse box...nothing. All the running lights work, and the 3rd brake light above the rear door window works.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2007 Honda Accord. A few days ago I backed the car up to the front of the house, and in the reflection of the windows and glass I noticed my brake lights were very dim looking. The brake lights on this model/year are LED brake lights that are Honda genuine brake lights. After I noticed, I put the car in park and tapped the brake lights several times and noticed they got very bright, then very dim. Then bright, and dim again and so on and so forth. They also flickered on and off at one point while my foot was planted firmly on the brake pedal. Is this a popular known issue with these brake lights? What can I do to correct this? Took the car back to the dealership and they said there was nothing wrong. (Of course)
View 19 RepliesHave 1995 Honda Accord with apx. 231,000 miles and needs all new break lines under the car. Honda Dealer states 12 hours of labor at $100 per hour. Should I go elsewhere or sell the car for $600 to the parts guy at the dealership offering to buy it since I wont pay the cost at this point to fix the car? Gas lines are all fine underneath by the way - I asked them to look since they could go next I would assume.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2011 honda accord and removed the brake fluid cap just fine to check it, in about October but I went to check it again today and the cap won't come off, I wonder if it's because of the cold weather? (36 f) It came off so easy last time I don't remember which way to turn it, and if I should press up or down when turning. The cap will rotate about a quarter inch either way, then won't go any farther. It hits these little white plastic pieces stopping it from going farther.
Here is a picture of what it looks like [URL] .... if you try to turn it left it gets caught on that little white plastic piece on the bottom and there is a similar piece stopping it from going right.
I had the master cylinder change on a 92 honda accord EX the calibers change and, the master cylinder I have been told does not have any way to adjust the stem on the master cylinder so the brake man ajusted the brake pedal but the brakes are still freezing up. It is an automatic
View 3 RepliesI have a 97 accord that i am having issues with. When I turn the key it does not crank luckily it is manual tranny so i jump start it. the battery is good i also put new terminals thinking those were the issue but still having problems.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1997 Honda Accord with 193000 miles... I'm trying to decide if I should sell it, as I'm getting concerned about it's future, especially the transmission (automatic). It seems to lurch once in a while, probably between first and second gear. I could sell it now for several thousand (ABS is out). If I keep driving it and the transmission dies, it's worthless, isn't it?. I don't know if the transmission fluid has ever been changed. When I recently got my oil changed, the mechanic said that he would leave it alone if I don't know if it's been changed before. Change the transmission fluid?
View 5 RepliesI decided to go with the 97 Accord with 156K. It's really in beautiful condition and the seller had an envelope with service records for everything - routine and otherwise. The car runs strongly but at idle or slowing to a red light, the oil light faintly flickers. Once I had driven it for awhile, the flickering stopped and didn't return at the ide/slow speed. Explanation? Should I be deeply troubled by this?
View 7 RepliesI have a 97 Honda Accord ex, and no matter how hot or cold it is outside, if the car hasn't been ran in more than an hour or two, it needs 5 minutes to warm up, (RPMs go down to 500, then rev up to 1200. That's how I know I can go) or else when driving it will stay in first gear and not allow me to go faster than 20 MPH. My mechanic said that the codes P0171 and P0505 came up. Also, the gas mileage is terrible, even after my fuel filter was changed.
View 5 RepliesAs you can glean from Discussion Title, I have a 97 Honda Accord that has been weak in producing cold air with the a/c on since we bought it three years ago. The car has been the "third car" for kids to drive so not a big deal. Now that one of the "kids" is commuting this summer to an internship, the hot car is a problem. I drove the car this morning as I just drive to the train, and noticed mist coming out of the dashboard vents when the a/c was on. The mist stopped when the a/c was turned off.
Does this misting mean we have an evaporator core leak, or other problem? It certainly doesn't seem like just a freon boost is needed. If the evaporator core needs to be replaced, how bad a job is that? I replaced one in a '72 Plymouth Duster once and didn't seem so bad.
I have a 95 Accord EX, 4 cylinder with ABS. The brake pedal goes to the floor about once a month, all times of year (I'm in Minnesota). I had the brakes bled last summer, but that didn't work. The ABS light has been on for probably 10 years. When I talked to my mechanic he said the ABS system, even though it's not working, could be a cause of the problem because fluid is still traveling through that system. He said most likely a master cylinder, but no guarantees. He said it could also be one of the brake lines. About 120k miles on it. What are the odds that it's the master cylinder?
View 2 RepliesA recent Car Talk column mentioned advantages to ceramic brake pads.
So, when I took my wife's '92 Accord EX in for routine service I asked about them.
Service knew nothing and referred me to Parts. The Parts guy said they don't use them, adding "They wear the rotors faster!"
Is this really a problem???
My wife and I have a 1997 Honda Accord, roughly 260k miles. A few months back the Check Engine light came on, diagnostic came back with P0420, typically indicating the catalytic converter is shot. Who am I to argue, it was an factory part. So we replaced that with an inexpensive Magnaflow converter. (don't have the part number on me); this was 5 days ago. Today my wife takes the car in for inspection. Check Engine is still on with the same code. The guy at the testing station begins laughing at my wife when she says we only spent about 200 in parts and labour on the new converter. I'm inclined to think that since we already replaced the converter that I should be looking somewhere else (O2 sensor maybe). But I also don't want to just start throwing parts at it. Do I have a case here? I would really prefer not to spend $1000 on a car that old with that many miles on it just to pass inspection.
View 4 RepliesI have a Honda Accord 1997 and I have noticed that the left speakers are not working in my car. The radio is working just fine and the right side speakers play just fine also but the left side is not working whatsoever. What might be happening and what action to take?
View 5 RepliesMy 1997 Honda, with 200,000 miles was making a clunking noise when I turned right. The mechanic replaced the rack & pinion, which stopped the clunking. However, it still makes a rhythmical softer clunking or clicking sound on right turns. It takes a while on the road for this to start, but once it starts, it happens on every single right turn. The mechanic said there is nothing wrong with the axle or the struts or anything whatsoever and it is probably just the flap hitting the fender, or something like that bec the car is so old. However, the noise is too rhythmical, too consistent for me to be confident that it is just pieces of rubber or metal randomly brushing together.
View 19 RepliesToday my car made a pretty loud thump when I put it in reverse and slowly let go of the brake. I haven't driven the car in 2 weeks. Afterwards, every time I brake there is a soft thumping sound that I can feel through the steering wheel, and the sound slows down with the speed of the car. I think I can also hear a very slight grinding noise while driving slowly in a quiet area.
I read in this forum to use the parking brake in an empty lot to see if its coming from the back tires. My question is, what was that loud thump in the beginning? Also, is it safe to drive to the mechanic (or can I fix it myself..)?
I have a wiring issue. I have found a broken conductor in my brake light system, which causes my right and high-mount brake lights not to function. If I give the wire a good wiggling and fanangaling, I can get all the brake lights to come on, but eventually they go out again after driving for a few days. The problem I have is this: I don't know how to release the wire from its terminations. Unfortunately, I think the break is close to the connector (away from the bulb socket), so I can't just cut out the middle and splice in a new conductor. How to free the wires from this connector and bulb socket? I'm afraid to do too much tinkering for fear of pulling loose another, undamaged wire. The wire in question is the orange one.
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