Honda - Accord :: 1997 - Lurch Once In A While Probably Between First And Second Gear
Jul 21, 2013
I have a 1997 Honda Accord with 193000 miles... I'm trying to decide if I should sell it, as I'm getting concerned about it's future, especially the transmission (automatic). It seems to lurch once in a while, probably between first and second gear. I could sell it now for several thousand (ABS is out). If I keep driving it and the transmission dies, it's worthless, isn't it?. I don't know if the transmission fluid has ever been changed. When I recently got my oil changed, the mechanic said that he would leave it alone if I don't know if it's been changed before. Change the transmission fluid?
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I have a 99 Honda Accord with 172K miles on it. In the last couple months it's started slipping more often than when the problem first started about 4-5ish months ago. It tends to lurch when I start going again from a stopped position and I'm also now noticing it lurching a bit when I go from a slower speed to a faster one while driving...it's more noticeable going from a faster to slower speed when driving. So it tends to lurch most from a stopping position and also when slowing down while going moderate speeds like 40 or 50 mph.
I took it to a shop and they said it's in the begging stages of failure and that I can either rebuild the tranny or drive it until it dies, but that it will die eventually. My question is since it's slipping, is it still ok to drive on longer drives? I was considering driving about 7 hours to see my family in a month or so and I'm not sure if it's worth the risk of driving it that far. I want to buy a new car, but there's more Hondas around where I'm from originally and I just want to get a decent used one since it will cost more to fix the transmission than the car is worth. Thoughts about driving long distances with a slipping transmission????
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I have a 97 Honda Accord ex, and no matter how hot or cold it is outside, if the car hasn't been ran in more than an hour or two, it needs 5 minutes to warm up, (RPMs go down to 500, then rev up to 1200. That's how I know I can go) or else when driving it will stay in first gear and not allow me to go faster than 20 MPH. My mechanic said that the codes P0171 and P0505 came up. Also, the gas mileage is terrible, even after my fuel filter was changed.
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I noticed my '94 accord LX slipping a bit mainly between 2nd and 3rd gear. I took it to my fairly trusty local (non-chain) mechanic who drove it a little and said he thought trans death was inevitable but he could not estimate when it would happen. Car has only 126K miles. He wanted to re-build it for $1400 (which I hear is reasonable but still an investment in a car this old.) The trans fluid is full (actually a little over the full line) bright red, clean smelling. We had the trans flushed 5 months ago but just found out they used Chevron ATF not Honda. I've read that only Honda fluid should be used, so I want to get that in there. Have not been driving it since the diagnosis. Do you think that there's any chance that switching to the Honda ATF will fix this and full trans rebuild won't be needed? Or if it's slipping is the trans already toast? I've heard some people advise against trans flushes in cars this old, to only drain and re-fill- is this true? If it does have a failing trans is there any way to estimate how long it will last? We are moving to New York in about 6 months and won't need a car, so I'd like to avoid sinking a ton of money on this car, or buying a new one! If it does need a re-build, do you think it's worth it in a car this old?
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I have a 91 accord I just was leaving to go to the store. I took off like normal when I was putting it in 2nd gear it locked up on me. Now if I leave it in neutral and let off the clutch it will move forward. If I try and put it in any gear it locks up. Is my trans shot or is it something else. I have been hearing clicking sound when I make a right turn. Just bought the car and it's my first Honda I just don't know what to look at first.
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I have my Accord Automatic. Well when driving and the car goes like to a different gear, it slides. When this happens i let go of the gas and press the gas slowly again and go back up to my speed.
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'89 Honda Accord LX Sedan 5-Speed, 266k miles...
Bought this car recently and it worked fine when I got it (the most perfect 22-year old car I've ever seen). Between then and now I've driven it a little. It's my first stick shift car, so I've stalled it a few times, ground the gears a little, etc. learning to drive it. Anyway, it now won't shift into first gear. It shifts fine and drives fine in all the other gears, the only problem is with first. It also shifts fine into all gears when the car is off.
On a side note (in case it pertains to this situation), the car takes a little while to warm up. For 5-10 minutes after it is turned on, it idles really fast and makes a horrid scratching noise and then stalls if put into reverse (don't know about first, since it won't go into first). Once the idling slows down, though, this problem goes away.
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My transmission has started slipping as car shifts into 2 and sometimes 3rd gear. It races and is not engaged, so there is no power for the few seconds (sometimes longer) when this happens. Car has about 216,000 miles - and it's time to also replace tires. As I look at the estimated bill, I'm having to decide if it's still a good investment to do the work on the car. I love the car and there is no rust or other problems.
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I have a 97 accord that i am having issues with. When I turn the key it does not crank luckily it is manual tranny so i jump start it. the battery is good i also put new terminals thinking those were the issue but still having problems.
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I decided to go with the 97 Accord with 156K. It's really in beautiful condition and the seller had an envelope with service records for everything - routine and otherwise. The car runs strongly but at idle or slowing to a red light, the oil light faintly flickers. Once I had driven it for awhile, the flickering stopped and didn't return at the ide/slow speed. Explanation? Should I be deeply troubled by this?
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As you can glean from Discussion Title, I have a 97 Honda Accord that has been weak in producing cold air with the a/c on since we bought it three years ago. The car has been the "third car" for kids to drive so not a big deal. Now that one of the "kids" is commuting this summer to an internship, the hot car is a problem. I drove the car this morning as I just drive to the train, and noticed mist coming out of the dashboard vents when the a/c was on. The mist stopped when the a/c was turned off.
Does this misting mean we have an evaporator core leak, or other problem? It certainly doesn't seem like just a freon boost is needed. If the evaporator core needs to be replaced, how bad a job is that? I replaced one in a '72 Plymouth Duster once and didn't seem so bad.
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I have a 2000 Honda Accord EX v6 and I have been taking it the dealer for regular maintenance and Oil Change but today I noticed my Car would not start
I can hear the engine start , but when I put the Gear (automatic ) in either reverse or D4 the engine will stop.
Then I waited for some time and restarted it and It was OK.
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My husband's 1999 (manual transmission) Honda Accord has suddenly gone from a very reliable vehicle to a very big problem. Last week, he experienced problems while driving in fourth gear going up hill at around 45 MPH. The car essentially stopped pulling him up the hill, so he went into third, and got nothing, then second, and got nothing. It took a few tries to re-start the car, which then started idling at lower-than-usual RPM's.
He revved the engine a bit, gave it a test drive, and was able to get to his destination without any more problems. The next day, at about the same place in the road, he experienced something similar, but this time, he revved the engine to increase the RPM's while in fourth gear and was able to make it through without any stalls. This morning, however, his car did not start. The engine will turn over, but it is not engaging. It does not seem to be an electrical problem, since the engine is turning over. No warning or "check engine" lights have come on at this point.
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1998 accord 4 cyl auto, mostly on start up and when coming to a stop at a light it sounds like someone is under the floorpan hitting it with a hammer. maybe 5 or 6 hits. I've looked into the exhaust being loose and hitting but it's tight and has good clearance. could it be a broken motor mount letting the engine rock too much? next, SOMETIMES when the trans shifts down into low gear you get a very noticeable clunk and the car kind of shudders. planning on doing a trans drain and fill today. lastly the instrument cluster is a little strange. tach doesn't work at all, speedo is fine as is the gas guage but the temp is erratic. when the temp is acting up you can thump it with your finger and it will jump around.
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I have an 04 Accord EXV6 with 237K miles. I have recently replaced shock absorber assemblies and all 6 motor mounts / transmission mounts, which resolved most of the loud "clunking" noises. However, I now have more of a "rattle" sound which I hear when one of three things happens...First, when the engine is started (typically when the engine is cold). Secondly, when shifting between park, reverse, and drive (also, more common when engine is cold). Lastly, when driving over rough roads or potholes at slow speed. The sound is the same in each of the 3 conditions, and appears to be coming from the right side. It doesn't seem to me that any bushings, control arms. etc. would be the cause since the same sound is heard during startup or gear shifting while the car is sitting still.
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My car stalled one day like I was in a high gear at too low of a speed when i was in neutral. It now acts as if it is in a high gear all the time when I am in neutral. When I press the clutch it will idle like it is supposed to but when i let off it pushes forward slightly then stalls exactly like it would if i was in 4th or 5th gear. When I shift into 1st 2nd 3rd or reverse it dies as if it is in gear but will not move even slightly, when I shift into 4th or 5th it again dies but it but is acting just as I would expect 4th or 5t to at a complete stop i feel slightly more power in 4th which is expected being a lower gear but I also feel 5th pull just like its supposed to. I cannot get it to come out of the high gear it is in even though i can move the stick into the neutral position. It is difficult to get the shifter into 4th or 5th but it will move into the other positions like it should with the same no power result. My clutch is fairly new and i have tried inspecting my sift linkage wit no obvious problems. (1991 honda accord lx 5 spd, 2.2 sohc)
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I recently bought a 1998 Honda Accord with 124,000 miles. The car had one owner for 14 years. The carfax indicates the owner maintained service on the vehicle, but didn't go into detail about the work that was done. (only that the started had be replaced) When I come to a complete stop the car downshifts rough into first gear. It almost feels like it slightly jumps forward. Is this a problem I need to address and if so what is the problem? I bought it from a trusted dealership who had their mechanics give it a check and said nothing was wrong with it.
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I have a 97 Honda Accord, 147k miles. Is it a good idea to engage the emergency brake one or two clicks while having to brake while going downhill (while stopping at a stop sign or traffic light)? I feel that without using the e-brake, the front brakes are being overworked.
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My wife and I have a 1997 Honda Accord, roughly 260k miles. A few months back the Check Engine light came on, diagnostic came back with P0420, typically indicating the catalytic converter is shot. Who am I to argue, it was an factory part. So we replaced that with an inexpensive Magnaflow converter. (don't have the part number on me); this was 5 days ago. Today my wife takes the car in for inspection. Check Engine is still on with the same code. The guy at the testing station begins laughing at my wife when she says we only spent about 200 in parts and labour on the new converter. I'm inclined to think that since we already replaced the converter that I should be looking somewhere else (O2 sensor maybe). But I also don't want to just start throwing parts at it. Do I have a case here? I would really prefer not to spend $1000 on a car that old with that many miles on it just to pass inspection.
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Last night we noticed that the main brake lights (not the CHMSL) on our 1997 Accord sedan wouldn't turn off. I tapped and released the brake pedal to make sure it wasn't stuck. Changed gears through drive, reverse, and park. The lights were continually lit, even after the car was shut off. I didn't want them to drain the battery, so I removed the bulbs (boy, were they HOT) and the car is now grounded temporarily.When I pulled the bulbs, I saw a warning light on the dash come on. I red bar near the bottom of the (non-working) speedometer that says Brake Lights or something. I think it's short hand for "Hey you idiot! Put the brake light bulbs back in!"So at least it knows the circuit is broken. So, the question is, what caused this,and how do I fix it without taking it to the dealership?
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I have a Honda Accord 1997 and I have noticed that the left speakers are not working in my car. The radio is working just fine and the right side speakers play just fine also but the left side is not working whatsoever. What might be happening and what action to take?
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