Honda - Accord :: 1997 - Clutch Pedal Is Stiffer Than Usual
May 14, 2013
I have a 97 Honda Accord LX stick shift that's giving me some trouble. I bought it at 146k miles and now it has 151k miles.
-- Here is the symptom --I feel that I have to lift the clutch pedal higher to fully engage the clutch after driving for 20 mins. The problem showed up several times and one time the clutch was somewhat slipping and I had to park it somewhere and got towed. After sitting there for several hours or overnight, the problem would gone -- and it could show up again at some time. The strange thing is that I am not always getting this problem. The car could sometimes run over 1 hour without any unusual feeling on the clutch.
I also noticed that when the clutch is not working well, the clutch pedal is stiffer than usual (I never had problem disengaging the clutch though). When I push the pedal to the very bottom on the floor, I can hear some noise and the car even had a tendency to move a little when in 1st gear.
Once I opened the hood and looked at the position of the release fork when the car was cold. After driving about 20 minutes, I looked again and found that the fork moved a little bit away from the slave cylinder as if someone was pushing the clutch pedal gently! I think that's why the point at which the clutch engages is becoming higher. But I don't know what is the real problem. I replaced the slave cylinder last week but it did not solve the issue. Is the clutch bad again or the cylinder?
Here is the repair history --About a year and a half ago I found the clutch slipping. So I had the clutch replaced and the flywheel resurfaced by a mechanic. It was good for a few months until that problem rose again. Then I went to an auto shop. They told me that the slave cylinder was the real problem and got it replaced. I was good for about a year. Now I am still getting the trouble above.
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Had my original clutch replaced by mechanic. Had 200K on it. Car clutch petal vibrates badly when bringing clutch pedal out after shifting. Mechanic states it has to do with motor mounts that were affected when changing clutch or the clutch takes time to seal and stop vibrating in the next 500 miles. I have warranty for 12 months and 12,000 miles. Which I had no problem of vibration before having clutch replaced? What is the problem and how to proceed.
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My clutch peddle made a slight "snap" sound last night and now it is very difficult to get the car to engage in a gear while sitting still, while moving it does ok, but not nearly as smooth as it should be. The other odd occurrence is that while the motor is running and the car is not moving, you can't shift any gears at all, but as soon as you cut the motor, all 5 gears and reverse are easily accessible. Why the sound at the peddle and the trouble in the gear shift mechanism? I am only an advanced beginner with car repair, but I think think this is really bad...
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My clutch peddle made a slight "snap" sound last night and now it is very difficult to get the car to engage in a gear while sitting still, while moving it does ok, but not nearly as smooth as it should be. The other odd occurrence is that while the motor is running and the car is not moving, you can't shift any gears at all, but as soon as you cut the motor, all 5 gears and reverse are easily accessible. Why the sound at the peddle and the trouble in the gear shift mechanism? I am only an advanced beginner with car repair, but I think think this is really bad... 2007 Honda Accord Manual Transmission
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Ok, did an intake manifold cleaning on my 99 Accord the other day, and now I have problems...
Long story short, some time ago my car started to have a very rough idle. Took me awhile to find the problem. Turned out the air hose, between the filter and throttle body, had developed a big hole on the underside. So I replaced it and while I was at it used some throttle body cleaner, spraying into the intake manifold chamber. Lot of junk blew out the tailpipe. The car ran much better, but the idle could still be a little rough. I ran it that way for awhile, and finally the other day decided there was probably still some junk in there and it was time to really clean it out. So I took ff the throttle body and intake manifold housing. There was a lot of junk in there! The small intake on the passenger side was completely clogged shut. (I understand this isn't surprising on these cars.) I used a bunch of rags and 2 cans of Valvoline throttle body cleaner and a lot of elbow grease and cleaned it out. I was thinking to myself that whatever I didn't get with the rags flushed through OK, but I didn't want to take the whole intake manifold out.
So I put it all back together. (I took a video before I started, so I'm pretty sure it's all back together right.) But now I have problems. The car starts. It idles fine mostly, but can be a bit rough. But the trouble starts when I put the pedal down. If I do it in Park, well, if I push it quick the engine just dies. If I push it slow, the engine revs then quits, revs and quits, over and over. Similar if it's in gear. If I push it hard, the engine stalls. If I push it gentle, it revs up, but chugs along a bit.
I've run some seafoam through it, thinking it was clogged up with all that junk, and sure enough, lots of smoke comes out, but nothing is improving so far. What have I done wrong?
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I have a 2000 Accord with about 65000 miles on it, 5 speed manual. The clutch is getting flaky. One time recently, it went to the floor and stayed there until I pulled the pedal back out. Then it worked fine for many days. Dealer could not get the problem to repeat; no leaks found. But now sometimes it is hard to get the car in gear (especially reverse), or the clutch feels spongy, but not in a consistent way.
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I own a Honda Accrod 2005 V6.
I don't know much about cars, but for the past year my clutch gradually started to just stick to the floor. I'm now at 80,000 miles, the clutch doesn't slip, and it for the most part drives fine with exception to this sticking. Sometimes when this happens, the stick shift stays in gear and I can't get the stick out of gear until the clutch has been lifted up and pushed back in. It is def getting worse. I have brought it to several mechanics.
I have been told by Honda that I need to replace the clutch set (clutch disc, pressure plate, and throw out bearing) and the clutch master and slave cylinder.After another mechanics look over, they also did confirm the same as honda but stated to get a new cut flywheel.
But after several other mechanics look-overs, they told me that the clutch is fine, so they recommended me to get the master and slave cylinders replaced.
So, trying to save money a mechanic told me to take one step at a time and see how it goes. He said he will bleed the slave and master cylinders and see if it is just an air pocket. That didn't work, so I trusted him and he replaced the master cylinder, but the problem still exists. He said the next thing to do is maybe to do a new slave cylinder. I'm now contemplating.
Another mechanic took a look after the work was done and said there is no leaking.
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Honda Accord 2004 EX V6 150,000 Miles. The car is paid off, I'm the original owner and it has no problems, apart from it seems like the clutch is beginning to wear down. Some times in drive when I step on the gas it spins up just a little and jerks forward. Is is worth getting the clutch repaired?
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I have been having a mysterious problem with my 2007 Pontiac Torrent that apparently no one, not even GM, can diagnose. I have done great research on this problem, and although there seems to be many many folks with Stabilitrak/Traction Control message issues, none seem to be having the same problem I am having.
Problem: After driving my car about 10 minutes, the brake pedal gets progressively stiffer and the car itself is “heavier” (no other way to describe it). If I continue driving, the car will begin to make a low roaring sound, which will get louder and louder if I continue driving. The car also at this point will lose acceleration and it is very difficult to make the car accelerate (that also makes the noise louder). A couple of times (luckily I was in my garage at home after driving), the car was stopped and when I tried to reverse, the car would not move at all.
When this problem first started (about 6 months ago), the Service Stabilitrak and Service Traction Control messages would come on, but I had a part replaced and that stopped (although the car was still having the same problem) until yesterday when those messages came on again. It has been four months since the messages stopped, yet the car was still having this problem during that time.
My remedy to this problem has been to pump the brakes each time I stop (I now take the highway instead of the interstate so that I can make enough stops to do this). I can go about 10 minutes before I have to stop, pump the brakes, and continue driving. This makes the stiffness in the brakes stop and keeps the car from making the noise and having the acceleration problems. The car runs fine as long as I do this.
During this six months, I have been to two different auto mechanics AND the local GMC dealer (at least four times). The parts that have been replaced are: right rear hub bearing assembly, EGR valve, rotors resurfaced, left rear caliper repaired, brake pressure modulator valve, and electronic brake control module. The dealership says they do not know what is causing this problem, and they claim they contacted the technicians at GM and they have never heard of this problem.
I feel this is a problem in the braking system. Something is getting hot the longer I drive and causing something to lock up the wheels, but not enough to stop the car entirely unless I continue driving. What stumps me is why does pumping the brakes work, and why are no service messages or warning lights coming on?
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I just had the front seals replaced in my 93 accord standard shift wagon. After about 4 days the clutch started feeling "soft" and now it's almost down to the floor in order to engage it. I wonder if this has anything to do with the seal replacement?
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A couple of years ago I went through the salt water with my 2003 Honda Accord which is a manual transmission. It only has 106,000 miles and expects it to go much further. The clutch works great but when engaged is really loud. I have had it checked by 2 different auto repair places. Nothing is wrong they say. It has been cleaned and greased.
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We have a 2000 Honda Accord, standard shift, with 105,000 miles on it. The clutch has been sticking at the floor on random occasions (especially on hot days). Our mechanic (Honda Dealer) has not been able to correct the problem. Last summer he changed the clutch fluid and said that looked like the problem as it was vey dark. It corrected the problem for a few months but now it is happening again in the cold weather. It can happen at any time you depress the clutch, even while shifting when moving. Of course, then it is very difficult to get the car in gear. Our only solution is to manually pick up the clutch with hand or foot and this is dangerous in traffic.
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I have 2013 Honda Accord 6 sp manual with 25k miles on, its clutch was completed gone last week, got new replacement, local Honda customer rep. told me I should watch my driving pattern, should using more break, instead transmission slow down, particular from high speed/high gears. I told them, we have 2008 Civic 5 speed Manual, I taught my two daughters how to drive it, and the car is still running without any problem… And, this is manual transmission car, tell a driver can not using/changing gears slowing down car is a joke… but maybe I am wrong...
Is there a possibility Accord has design problem with inferior clutch materials used on their new 6 speeds manual Accord? Since car has new clutch, should I keep it for a while? Or, sale it immediately? I just can’t not see I am going to come up another 3rd replacement on clutch before the car get into 60K miles.
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I had the master cylinder change on a 92 honda accord EX the calibers change and, the master cylinder I have been told does not have any way to adjust the stem on the master cylinder so the brake man ajusted the brake pedal but the brakes are still freezing up. It is an automatic
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My car stalled one day like I was in a high gear at too low of a speed when i was in neutral. It now acts as if it is in a high gear all the time when I am in neutral. When I press the clutch it will idle like it is supposed to but when i let off it pushes forward slightly then stalls exactly like it would if i was in 4th or 5th gear. When I shift into 1st 2nd 3rd or reverse it dies as if it is in gear but will not move even slightly, when I shift into 4th or 5th it again dies but it but is acting just as I would expect 4th or 5t to at a complete stop i feel slightly more power in 4th which is expected being a lower gear but I also feel 5th pull just like its supposed to. I cannot get it to come out of the high gear it is in even though i can move the stick into the neutral position. It is difficult to get the shifter into 4th or 5th but it will move into the other positions like it should with the same no power result. My clutch is fairly new and i have tried inspecting my sift linkage wit no obvious problems. (1991 honda accord lx 5 spd, 2.2 sohc)
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I have a NEW (purchased May 18th) 2012 Honda Accord. After starting the car there is a small vibration at 16-18 mph which I feel slightly in the gas pedal. A week ago, it started making a slight click when the car reaches 30 mph. This happens only when the first time it reaches these speeds when the car is started. Once started, I can stop and start (without turning off the car) as many times as I need without the sound. However, if I turn the car off and back on, the sounds happens again.
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I have a 95 Accord EX, 4 cylinder with ABS. The brake pedal goes to the floor about once a month, all times of year (I'm in Minnesota). I had the brakes bled last summer, but that didn't work. The ABS light has been on for probably 10 years. When I talked to my mechanic he said the ABS system, even though it's not working, could be a cause of the problem because fluid is still traveling through that system. He said most likely a master cylinder, but no guarantees. He said it could also be one of the brake lines. About 120k miles on it. What are the odds that it's the master cylinder?
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We have a 2004 Honda Accord V6 with 178,000 miles and the car is giving us some issues. We can drive the car for 10-15 minutes with no issues. Then when we push on the gas pedal, the car will not go any farther and the engine just revs. If we turn the car off and restart it, the car will continue to drive. There are no check engine lights on the car. Could these be a transmission issue?
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I have a 2001 Civic LX; I would like the clutch pedal travel distance to be far less than it is.
As in most manual cars, I find that the clutch pedal travel is mostly useless. That is, once the clutch is fully engaged, the pedal still has a goodly way to go before it hits the stop. On pedal depression the inverse is true. As modern hydraulic clutches are self-adjusting, this once-necessary extra distance is pointless.
(I would rather clutch with my ankle than my whole leg. If I could cut the pedal travel in half (or more), I would like that very much.) Is this possible? How would I do such a thing?
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I have changed the clutch master cylinder on my '03 Honda Accord (6 cyl.) six times in the past 12 months. Either the o ring seal blows out or the bolts holding the plate down breaks off. I bleed the clutch of bubbles until the oil runs through also. What am I doing wrong?, I'm about to send this car packing.
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I just rolled over to 90,000 miles on my 2002 Accord. Its running beautifully, however every so often the car "rumbles" or "shudders" when I'm releasing the clutch after I shift into second gear, or sometimes it'll do it when I'm facing up a hill pulling into first gear letting out the clutch. Its almost as if the clutch rapidly grabs then slips a bunch of times, similar to if it was warped. It doesn't completely slip at all to my knowledge. The car was bought new by my family and has been driven pretty carefully since (although 2 people have learned to drive stick on it, and my dad isn't the most "gentle" driver in the universe). I know that Clutch rebuilding and replacing is a big expensive job and its something I wouldn't even consider doing myself. So, when is it time to really seriously consider dropping down the serious cash to get the clutch rebuilt? To be honest, the shuddering is really annoying (it doesn't happen all the time though) but its something I could live with for a bit.
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